Here is a list of all the postings Stueeee has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
That's probably true, but at least you'd be able to get Loctite and Silver solder on prescription.
|Thread: Jennying Machine|
What an excellent piece of kit, and well done you for saving it. Did you use a radius turning attachment to make the dies?
Coincidently, I've just finished re-working a modern Jenny/bead rolling machine. I bought it in the US several years ago and bought it back to the UK. It started out like this:
Despite being made of 15mm or so steel plate it still exhibited some flexing in use. Also I was clearly wearing out my welcome for handle turning duty from Sue, my partner. It's not a tool I have used a lot, but I have a vintage car restoration project coming up which will require a lot of panel work.
It ended up like this, The stiffening comes from 50 x 50 x 3mm RHS which has made a huge difference. The motor is a 24V unit from a stairlift. The further reduction gearing is by 2 sets of 1950s BMC engine timing gears operating via a jackshaft.
I fitted a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) speed controller too; the foot pedal switch hangs on the frame when it isn't in use.
|Thread: Jig for hand tapping|
Home made tapping blocks work well on flat material as said. if you've drilled the hole on a curved surface the blocks won't be any help. This setup uses a spring loaded centre that fits in the rear of the tap, or in this case the rear of the tap wrench.
|Thread: Britannia Lathe|
Most of those tools will take CCMT 0602xx inserts (the xx is the corner radius) like these: lEAAOSw7P9bdDwP">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CCMT-060204-P20-30-Indexable-Carbide-Inserts-For-Machining-Turning-Steel/183380732175?hash=item2ab257e90f:glEAAOSw7P9bdDwP
Never seen HSS versions.
Multigrade motor oil isn't really suitable as a cutting lubricant. It has all sorts of additives that mitigate against the cutting action that you're aiming for with a lathe.
As others have said, I wouldn't use the power feeds until you are really confident of the lathe's capabilities. Training lathes that used to be commonplace in apprentice workshop facilities never had any power feeds for that very reason.
|Thread: Where can I get a 3/4" strain relief bush?|
I've just run a 20mm x 1.5 tap when I've come across this issue, never needed to re-drill.
Although there's a slight divergence between the 1.5mm "new" pitch and the 16 TPI original, it's never been noticeable in the short length of thread where a gland etc. would screw into.
|Thread: Non standard taps - what are they ?|
Yes they do but with the standard 1mm pitch and the standard 60 degree ISO thread angle. The Lowenherz thread uses a 53 degree 8 minute thread angle along with the odd pitch. Details here.....
|Thread: Whatever happened to...|
I remember cooking Frizets at scout camps back in the 60's. The troop's quartermaster must have bought a truckload of the stuff many years before as I don't remember ever seeing it in the shops at the time. I think that the extreme stickiness of the mixture -it was difficult to get it to drop off the spoon into the frying pan- was due to there being a fair amount of Gram flour (AKA Chickpea flour) in the recipe.
|Thread: Paper Tube (Cardboard)|
Been reading this thread with interest. Just wondered why the OP hasn't considered using brass tube instead of paper for the home made cases. When I was a member of a wildfowling club many years ago one of the guys had an 8 bore gun. "Off the peg" cartridges for these hadn't been available in this bore for some time, but the owner had bought some 8 bore brass cases which could be reloaded many times.
Can't see that there would be a legal issue with the OP making pinfire cases, they don't become ammunition until they're capped and loaded by the end user.
I was surprised about the barrel failure with a home made blank. I produced a load of DIY 12 bore blanks for some poacher alarm mines by cutting round the inside of the crimp, pouring out the shot, filling the "cup" in the plaswad with tissue and waterproofing the cartridge with melted candle wax. I tried a few of these 2 1/2" cartridges in a 3" chambered 12 bore wildfowling gun before loading the rest of the blanks into my home made poacher mines. the gun barrel looked to be as clean as it would have been firing a "live" round.
Edited By Stueeee on 10/03/2020 21:35:25
|Thread: Complicated post|
As a longtime Bridgeport user about to move up a size to an Ajax, can't make any useful comment about small milling machines. But in your situation i would definitely go for a machine with an R8 spindle. There is an enormous amount of tooling available in this format; and you can get R8 to MT 1,2 and 3 adapters which would allow you to use any of your lathe tooling in your mill.
BTW, that Beaver mill sounds like a bargain for someone, especially if it is the model with the 40 taper spindle.
|Thread: cross slide, is it Smart & Brown?|
This top slide from the same seller looks like it goes with the probably model L cross slide he also has. it's up as Myford ML7 **LINK**
Definitely has an S & B look about it. From the underside with what looks like an attachment for a bed clamp, it would likely suit a Model L, although it's different in detail from the cross slide on my 1977 Model L.
Edited By Stueeee on 27/01/2020 21:47:33
|Thread: Can we have a really clear distinction between Silver Soldering and Brazing|
One of the differences is that so-called Bronze Welding traditionally uses a rod with 9-10% of Nickel in it. I use Sifbronze No. 3 for this process. As well as motorcycle and bicycle frames, this process is the traditional jointing method on racing car spaceframes. My space framed Avatar car is largely put together with Nickel Bronze.
As another poster noted earlier, Bronze Welding lays a bead around a joint. The process involves heating the joint with an OA torch with a big slightly carburising flame, laying a blob of Nickel Bronze, moving the torch slightly to 'sweat' the existing blob forward at the root and then depositing another blob -rinse and repeat; the key thing is not to overheat the joint and cause the bronze to run. There's a video of an expert piece of work here.
BTW, not all brazing rods contain Zinc. For TIG brazing, I use Sifbronze No. 8 which is Zinc free. using any Zinc bearing rods with TIG contaminate the electrode with nasty white gunk.
|Thread: Apologies for raising this again|
Yes 2 plugs per cylinder, It has a twin spark distributor driven directly off the end of the camshaft.
Lots of Austin Seven engines with 2 bearing crankshafts have been tuned for performance, not usually to the extent of this motor, which also has a 2 bearing crank -albeit a reproduction EN40 Nitrided one rather than the Austin factory item.
I would drill 4 new holes through the flywheel at 90 increments and clamp it to your faceplate. Unless it's a late flywheel (with the conventional lined centre plate) these holes could be covered by the clutch lining when the motor is re-assembled. I have machined several A7 flywheels either to lighten them or to machine the register for a shrunk on ring gear. A7 flywheels are made of a pretty tough steel, so it's worth making sure that it isn't going to shift while you're machining it.
Edited By Stueeee on 19/01/2020 15:17:59
|Thread: Collet identification|
I have a lot of collets for my model A although by no means a full set. I don't think I've paid more than £5 each for any of them; I haven't bought any for several years, so the going rate may have increased since then. In my experience, the metric collets are less commonly available than the imperial ones, and the square and hexagon collets are rarer still.
|Thread: Bottled Gas Suppliers|
Due to yet another hike in rental charges, I binned my BOC account for Oxygen and Acetylene earlier this year. I have an Albee cylinder for Acetylene. The Albee cylinders are available from a number of distributors, so if the one you're currently dealing with is acting like an idiot, you should be able to find another who isn't too far away.
The Albee Oxygen cylinders have a built in single stage reg. but as I can get Oxygen from any number of suppliers I went for a cylinder from Adams Gas which allows me to continue to use use my own 2 stage regulator. The Acetylene cylinders from both Hobby weld and Albee have a built in single stage regulator, which I'm really not keen on, but it's Hobson's choice on this.
As the cylinders are different diameters to BOC's I made this welding cart for the new "rent free" setup.
The guage mounted on the enconomiser is so that I can get a true line pressure reading from the Albee single stage regulator; this only has a contents guage and there is a calibrated knob which gives a vague idea of the line pressure.
|Thread: soldering stainless steel|
I used a flux called A8 which I bought from Solder Connection on their advice after struggling to solder stainless with the usual acid based fluxes. Using this flux made the job akin to soldering brass. Do the work in a very well ventilated area though as the fumes are really horrible.
Edited By Stueeee on 09/01/2020 16:57:48
|Thread: Opening a Port|
I've used the 12G295 or the near identical 12G206 Cooper 998/MG1100 head in the past on 1000cc 'A' series motors, One of the issues (other than rarity) with these heads is the large amount that needs skimming off the head if you're not using flat top (or 'pop up' pistons) a .070" plus skim often results in a break in to the rocker feed oilway drilling that runs across the face of these heads. Nowadays I use the 12G940 head from the 1275cc motors, It has bigger valves, less volume in the combustion chamber, so needs less skimmed off to attain a decent compression, the rocker oil feed drilling doesn't run across the head face, and if it's a late (1987 onwards IIRC) head it will have factory fitted hard valve seats suitable for unleaded petrol.
When this head goes on a small bore (i.e. 850/950/998/1098cc) motor it needs to be fitted along with the 1275 rocker gear and head gasket as the valve spacing is different on the 1275cc head. The 1275 exhaust valve opens over the edge of the cylinder on the small bore motors, so if the head has been skimmed, or you are running a high lift cam, reliefs need to be cut into the block.
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