Here is a list of all the postings Stueeee has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Paper Tube (Cardboard)|
Been reading this thread with interest. Just wondered why the OP hasn't considered using brass tube instead of paper for the home made cases. When I was a member of a wildfowling club many years ago one of the guys had an 8 bore gun. "Off the peg" cartridges for these hadn't been available in this bore for some time, but the owner had bought some 8 bore brass cases which could be reloaded many times.
Can't see that there would be a legal issue with the OP making pinfire cases, they don't become ammunition until they're capped and loaded by the end user.
I was surprised about the barrel failure with a home made blank. I produced a load of DIY 12 bore blanks for some poacher alarm mines by cutting round the inside of the crimp, pouring out the shot, filling the "cup" in the plaswad with tissue and waterproofing the cartridge with melted candle wax. I tried a few of these 2 1/2" cartridges in a 3" chambered 12 bore wildfowling gun before loading the rest of the blanks into my home made poacher mines. the gun barrel looked to be as clean as it would have been firing a "live" round.
Edited By Stueeee on 10/03/2020 21:35:25
|Thread: Complicated post|
As a longtime Bridgeport user about to move up a size to an Ajax, can't make any useful comment about small milling machines. But in your situation i would definitely go for a machine with an R8 spindle. There is an enormous amount of tooling available in this format; and you can get R8 to MT 1,2 and 3 adapters which would allow you to use any of your lathe tooling in your mill.
BTW, that Beaver mill sounds like a bargain for someone, especially if it is the model with the 40 taper spindle.
|Thread: cross slide, is it Smart & Brown?|
This top slide from the same seller looks like it goes with the probably model L cross slide he also has. it's up as Myford ML7 **LINK**
Definitely has an S & B look about it. From the underside with what looks like an attachment for a bed clamp, it would likely suit a Model L, although it's different in detail from the cross slide on my 1977 Model L.
Edited By Stueeee on 27/01/2020 21:47:33
|Thread: Can we have a really clear distinction between Silver Soldering and Brazing|
One of the differences is that so-called Bronze Welding traditionally uses a rod with 9-10% of Nickel in it. I use Sifbronze No. 3 for this process. As well as motorcycle and bicycle frames, this process is the traditional jointing method on racing car spaceframes. My space framed Avatar car is largely put together with Nickel Bronze.
As another poster noted earlier, Bronze Welding lays a bead around a joint. The process involves heating the joint with an OA torch with a big slightly carburising flame, laying a blob of Nickel Bronze, moving the torch slightly to 'sweat' the existing blob forward at the root and then depositing another blob -rinse and repeat; the key thing is not to overheat the joint and cause the bronze to run. There's a video of an expert piece of work here.
BTW, not all brazing rods contain Zinc. For TIG brazing, I use Sifbronze No. 8 which is Zinc free. using any Zinc bearing rods with TIG contaminate the electrode with nasty white gunk.
|Thread: Apologies for raising this again|
Yes 2 plugs per cylinder, It has a twin spark distributor driven directly off the end of the camshaft.
Lots of Austin Seven engines with 2 bearing crankshafts have been tuned for performance, not usually to the extent of this motor, which also has a 2 bearing crank -albeit a reproduction EN40 Nitrided one rather than the Austin factory item.
I would drill 4 new holes through the flywheel at 90 increments and clamp it to your faceplate. Unless it's a late flywheel (with the conventional lined centre plate) these holes could be covered by the clutch lining when the motor is re-assembled. I have machined several A7 flywheels either to lighten them or to machine the register for a shrunk on ring gear. A7 flywheels are made of a pretty tough steel, so it's worth making sure that it isn't going to shift while you're machining it.
Edited By Stueeee on 19/01/2020 15:17:59
|Thread: Collet identification|
I have a lot of collets for my model A although by no means a full set. I don't think I've paid more than £5 each for any of them; I haven't bought any for several years, so the going rate may have increased since then. In my experience, the metric collets are less commonly available than the imperial ones, and the square and hexagon collets are rarer still.
|Thread: Bottled Gas Suppliers|
Due to yet another hike in rental charges, I binned my BOC account for Oxygen and Acetylene earlier this year. I have an Albee cylinder for Acetylene. The Albee cylinders are available from a number of distributors, so if the one you're currently dealing with is acting like an idiot, you should be able to find another who isn't too far away.
The Albee Oxygen cylinders have a built in single stage reg. but as I can get Oxygen from any number of suppliers I went for a cylinder from Adams Gas which allows me to continue to use use my own 2 stage regulator. The Acetylene cylinders from both Hobby weld and Albee have a built in single stage regulator, which I'm really not keen on, but it's Hobson's choice on this.
As the cylinders are different diameters to BOC's I made this welding cart for the new "rent free" setup.
The guage mounted on the enconomiser is so that I can get a true line pressure reading from the Albee single stage regulator; this only has a contents guage and there is a calibrated knob which gives a vague idea of the line pressure.
|Thread: soldering stainless steel|
I used a flux called A8 which I bought from Solder Connection on their advice after struggling to solder stainless with the usual acid based fluxes. Using this flux made the job akin to soldering brass. Do the work in a very well ventilated area though as the fumes are really horrible.
Edited By Stueeee on 09/01/2020 16:57:48
|Thread: Opening a Port|
I've used the 12G295 or the near identical 12G206 Cooper 998/MG1100 head in the past on 1000cc 'A' series motors, One of the issues (other than rarity) with these heads is the large amount that needs skimming off the head if you're not using flat top (or 'pop up' pistons) a .070" plus skim often results in a break in to the rocker feed oilway drilling that runs across the face of these heads. Nowadays I use the 12G940 head from the 1275cc motors, It has bigger valves, less volume in the combustion chamber, so needs less skimmed off to attain a decent compression, the rocker oil feed drilling doesn't run across the head face, and if it's a late (1987 onwards IIRC) head it will have factory fitted hard valve seats suitable for unleaded petrol.
When this head goes on a small bore (i.e. 850/950/998/1098cc) motor it needs to be fitted along with the 1275 rocker gear and head gasket as the valve spacing is different on the 1275cc head. The 1275 exhaust valve opens over the edge of the cylinder on the small bore motors, so if the head has been skimmed, or you are running a high lift cam, reliefs need to be cut into the block.
Opening out the inlet valve throats is well worth doing on an A7 motor. A simple pilot cutter can be made on a lathe very quickly; you can use a reground broken centre drill as the actual cutter. Also, there is no radius on the roof of inlet port where it meets the valve throat. It has been proved again and again that the bulk of the gas flow in an inlet port is in this area -the so-called "short side radius". As it left the factory this area is a sharp right angle rather than a radius. A bit of work here with a burr or mounted grinding point will have good results.
The improvement in the inlet ports can be seen in this photo.
|Thread: Cold Blue|
I've had good results using this stuff Weblink It's also available in a bottle, but I've found that the product in a tube keeps better, I've had the same tube for several years now, still works OK for blueing the odd thumbscrew etc.
|Thread: Packed Boring Bars|
What is being shown in the video looks to be a modern version of the "Spill boring" process that used to to be used for the final finishing to size on gun barrels after drilling and reaming. A wooden packing "Spill" rides against both the tool and the gun barrel on the first pass. Then more thin paper sheets are inserted between the spill and the tool on each pass.
|Thread: What is this thread called these days? 3/4"-16 SAE|
If it's SAE, it would normally have a 60º thread angle, so would be 3/4" x 16 UNS (Unified Special) or possibly UNEF (Unified Extra Fine)
|Thread: Why are insert toolholders so expensive?|
I think a lot of of "industrial" toolholders are of far eastern origin regardless of the price, certainly some of the major suppliers' own brands .
A catalogued toolholder I ordered from MSC Industrial a couple of years ago turned out to actually be shipped direct from APT when it arrived here.
There weren't any quality issues with the tool, but I did wonder just how much extra I had paid MSC where the "value add" amounted to a phone call or email from MSC to APT.
I have recently bought some 16ER/IR toolholders direct from China, they cost about 15% of the ones sold by MSC. The quality of these has been fine so far, albeit they haven't been in all day every day use.
|Thread: Disposal of workshop contents|
Certainly true in my limited experience. Following a workshop re-organisation I got to hear of several years ago,
I picked up a well tooled Colchester Bantam 1600 for my brother which had not had a great deal of use. -The dealers offer on this machine? £150
A fully tooled Elliot Victoria universal mill -this even had the compound dividing head and changewheels -The dealers offer on this -"no real demand for these, but I can take it off your hands". At that time I couldn't have accommodated a 60" table machine or I would have definitely bought this one for my own workshop.
The fact that the machinery was at an educational establishment where there may not have been an appreciation of machine tool values by the management may have been reason, but certainly not a justification, of these derisory offers from the dealer concerned who was advertising similar machinery with pricing quite some way into 4 figures at the time.
IMO, definitely worth going to an auction house if there's a reasonable amount of stuff in the workshop. I've bought stuff via Peaker Pattinson auctions in the past, they seemed to be a professional outfit -usual disclaimer applies.
Edited By Stueeee on 03/09/2019 13:38:31
|Thread: Heidenhain scale repair|
I have a Heidenhain 731 DRO on one of my lathes. I have been told that the filament bulb used in the scales for these is quite special; not sure whether any LED would behave in the same way as a filament arrangement.
When I had an issue with one of my scales, after doing the usual stuff re cable connections etc. it had to go back for repair to Heidenhain, this was 12 or so years ago, and they were far more interested in selling me a (massively expensive) complete new DRO setup, rather than mending mine, although they did (expensively again) mend the scale with a two week turn round.
A recent experience I had leads me to believe that although there may be a huge number of far eastern sellers of a particular item on eBay, there may be a lot fewer actual suppliers of said item. Which might explain not only the inability to supply but also the same error from multiple sellers.
I ordered a 16mm square 16ER insert threading tool on eBay. this was advertised at less than a quarter of MSC Industrial's price. Then a 20mm square tool arrived; obviously too large for my S & B toolroom lathe. I went through the "return item" process with eBay to get a full refund, and then ordered a 16mm squre tool from a completely different supplier. Two weeks later, another 20mm square tool arrived! "return item" time again.
I came to the conclusion that a lot of these sellers are effectively retailers who call off items from a wholesale type operation when they get an order, and if those parts aren't in the correct bin, then the wrong part goes out time after time. Third time lucky with ordering the 16ER tool from yet another supplier, I received a 16mm square item this time.
BTW, all three of these tools appeared to be of good quality, and a quick try out with a European sourced 16ER insert indicated a good fit in the two "wronguns" as well as the one I'm using now.
Edited By Stueeee on 21/08/2019 21:23:06
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