Here is a list of all the postings Stueeee has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: crane uprate - where would you add some metal ?|
No I didn't miss that fact, however, the mid casters visible in the weblink I posted are there solely to be in contact with the ground when unassembled crane is moved. The mid casters on that crane, like those on mine will be clear of the ground when the legs are folded out with the crane in use. So in essence, yes I feel I am comparing apples with apples.
In my view, there has been a near universal decrying of swivel casters on this thread without any solid evidence being produced of why they are inherently dangerous.
Did you follow the weblink I put up in my previous post? Engine crane with swivel casters It would be surprising that this company, who sells to professional users would be selling an inherently dangerous product. Certainly if the crane in question was deemed unsafe at end use in a commercial garage or workshop, the HSE would take appropriate enforcement action.
The bulk of the weight is being borne by the multiple turns of the lifting sling around the headstock, no weight is being taken by the spindle and not a great deal by the bed itself. Like my other S & B lathe (Model A) , these machines are substantially built, I wasn't expecting any issue, and there wasn't any. Lifting a complete machine with at least some of the weight taken by the bed and the rest by the headstock casting is the recommended method by some manufacturers. This is how the rigger lifted my 'big' lathe when I bought it home:
The shifting blokes load cell made this machine just shy of 2.5 Tonne, so there's some weight being taken by the bed.
The Model 'M' lathe is a late model which has clearly not had a great deal of use; something I can be reasonably sure of as well as the original paint being little worn, it came with the factory spec sheets with tested runout etc. for the machine. When I installed it at my workshop, they are still good figures.
Edited By Stueeee on 09/02/2021 20:44:08
The OP's crane presently has very similar fixed casters on the front to the arrangement on mine when I bought it. Like ,mine, they point outwards at all times. As a result the crane is extremely difficult to move with any kind of control even when unloaded. I believe that the only reason that these cranes have these fixed casters at the front is to reduce cost. Certainly there are other more expensive cranes that are supplied new with swivel casters front and rear. -and by coincidence a very similar handlebar to the one I welded on to mine-
I have on occasion been forced, when there are no other means, to use my crane to transport machines or other big items with them loaded on the crane. But the only cause of a tipover would be that all or some of the load weight is outside of the footprint of the four casters. By lowering the load to just above ground level, paying attention to the Jib extension length, the weight outside the footprint situation whilst shifting the crane can be avoided on any of the reasonably level going where you would be using such a crane under any circumstance.
In my photo you can see that I am loading my 'new' S & B Model M onto a pallet truck , this was a necessity to get the lathe where it needed to go, but even with the C of G of the lathe pretty much in the middle of the pallet truck tines, moving the lathe this way was more precarious (in my view at the time) than using the crane which was/is too wide to manoeuvre it to its new home in my quite crowded workshop.
The only modifications I would make are change out the fixed casters which make steering a loaded crane very difficult in my experience. Possibly something to grab hold of so that you can move the loaded crane would be useful too. This is my 2 tonne folding engine crane -I use it a lot, but have yet to lift an engine out with it.
I fitted the swivel casters and the "handlebar" at the rear. I also changed the chain and hook to one that came with certification paperwork.
|Thread: Soldering stainless steel pipe|
I've used this flux for soldering stainless steel. I was using a MAPP torch rather than a soldering iron. Weblink
I found it really effective; I used a tin/lead solder as recommended by the supplier. Usual disclaimer applies; just a customer etc.
|Thread: BA threads|
I do remember reading somewhere that the BA series was based on the Thury threads. From a quick compare it looks like those responsible for the BA series just did some rounding on the Thury diameters and pitches e.g. No. 10 Thury .349mm pitch, 1.64mm dia; No.10 BA .35mm pitch, 1.7mm dia.
|Thread: Workshop insurance|
One issue with contents of household outbuildings that I have come across with several insurers is a restriction on theft from outbuildings. Annoyingly, this isn't to be found anywhere in the policy documentation, but rather in the schedule. You won't see the schedule until you have bought and paid for the insurance. So your policy wording will imply that you have full contents cover for your garage/shed/workshop, but the schedule will limit a claim for burglary or theft to something like £1000 total. This amount would barely cover a garden tractor or motor mower and other power garden tools many people may have stored in a shed, let alone the tools and equipment that many members on here probably have in their workshops. I have cancelled two policies during the cooling off period because of this issue, which I believe is common to domestic insurance policies.
I now have my workshop contents insured with Walker Midgely, I'm hoping not to have to test how good the cover actually is in the future.
|Thread: Brazing copper|
I have brazed copper joints with O/A kit on a number of occasions. Butted joints aren't ideal, but with good fit up and by using a Silicon Bronze rod such as Sifbronze No. 1 with O/A it's easy to form a nice fillet around the joint which will still provide mechanical strength; the fillet is easy to produce with as it O/A gives a much more focussed heat than possible with a conventional brazing hearth setup. I would use brazing for this in an environment where the joints would not be likely to be exposed to significant vibration.
I must say though, that unless the 15mm "tee offs" are too close together axially, my first choice would be to use a series of 28-15mm reducing end feed or Yorkshire style tees for this job.
|Thread: Suitable steel for hammer heads|
I used square gaugeplate (ground flatstock) when I needed to make an apparently unobtainable shape of panel beating hammer earlier this year. Once the ends were pressed on, I TIG welded them, filed them to shape, gave them a polish and tempered the ends to dark straw. It's been working just fine so far.
|Thread: Steering side tube|
I have cut and welded A7 draglinks before; they are made of quite a thick wall tube and don't appear to be anything fancy in way of material.
If you're going to use the factory "cup and cap" style ball joints you'll want to use 3/4" OD tube which will need to be at least 14SWG wall so that you can machine the 5/8" bore for the inner cup whilst leaving a seating at the rear end.
If you're stuck with metric sizes in France, you could use thick wall 20mm OD tube and skim the outer down to 3/4" at the ends to accept the outer cap and bore the inner ends to 5/8" for the cups.
|Thread: Spares stock...|
I'm not sure I'd count that as a weakness. Looking at the prices on eBay etc. for tiny lengths of material where you have to believe the seller's description of the spec. It's often possible to buy a full length from a stockholder for not much more money. But of course, there is the issue of the space to store it....
On the issue of spare parts, if they're not perishable and the price is right, then spares on the shelf are better than money in the bank earning 0.1 or such percent interest IMO.
Edited By Stueeee on 20/11/2020 11:21:08
|Thread: Plans for updating the archaic forum?|
Perhaps any others who don't think the current arrangements are pure distilled perfection don't want to get flamed in this thread by those who do....
|Thread: Myford Hammered Green Paint|
I've also bought this exact colour, can't comment re. Myford suitability, but it's a very close match to the hammer finish paint used by Smart & Brown on this 1977 Model "M" lathe.
|Thread: Cutting oil ( Suds) resistant paint|
I've used both of these paints with good results, they're both available in any RAL or BS colour, and both seem to go on OK with a brush or a spraygun.
Usual disclaimer, only a satisfied customer etc.
Edited By Stueeee on 04/09/2020 21:58:03
|Thread: Welder buy|
Decent wire feed is really important on a MIG welder. Some of the cheap units (my elder brother used to have one of these) didn't seem to have any voltage stabilisation on the wire feed, with the result that the arc wasn't stable. A problem he fixed by buying a decent 180A MIG.
Some quality machines have two pairs of rollers for the wire feed which allows a longer hose than the usual 3 metres. I have a 4 metre hose on my machine which is really convenient on larger jobs where otherwise it would be necessary to keep moving the welder nearer where you're actually welding.
A lot of combination MIG/TIG machines have a reasonably full set of MIG features, but only have lift or scratch start rather than HF (High Frequency) starting; Scratch start always seems to end up contaminating the tungsten in my experience. The gas, including any "pre flow" of gas including is controlled by a valve on the torch which will be permanently live when the machine is in TIG mode. I haven't seen a combination machine that does AC TIG, maybe not an issue if you can be sure that you will never need to weld Aluminium.
Edited By Stueeee on 04/09/2020 12:17:10
|Thread: Logging in to MyBT|
Missed your update while I was typing....
It may not be... Did you receive the text of this email earlier in the year?
This is part of BT's migration away from Yahoo servers that others have mentioned in this thread.
You should be able to get this fixed if you can get put through to the right BT people; the ordinary fault clerks just have a script. Your MY BT password ought to be the same as your email one.
I had a similar issue about six months ago, and managed to get it fixed over the phone once I spoke to the UK based email people. they fixed the issue there and then despite the fact that they had a typo in their record of my mother's maiden name ( which is usually used as part of the online account recovery)
|Thread: Computer Disaster! Help needed!|
Shift + F8 -recovery screen not appearing doesn't look good. If all else fails you should be able to see what data is readable off the disk with a USB connected SATA/IDE disk dock like this. HD Dock
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