Here is a list of all the postings ANDY CAWLEY has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Can one buy pliers with parallel jaws that lock like mol|
here it is‼️
After all the blethering what was the intended use that you hoped for this useful tool ❓
Ooooh now you’ve started something 👍😁✅😎
I like it👍
Well said jaCK Hobson. ✅
I am dumbfounded that you would draw such a conclusion from what appear to be the very small number of poor reviews out of over 100 excellent reviews.
As far as I can make out you have never even handled one of these devices. How on earth can you come to the conclusion, based on such flimsy evidence, that the pin you refer to will bend.
Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 28/05/2021 00:43:13
Yes, it is rather odd, it’s as if he had not read my post at all.
Never mind a large rusty nut, what I can tell you is that with in the limits of my strength I have not managed to break it. I have used it on a nut of approximately 25mm and applied as much torque as my 100kgs+ will allow without and I have gripped the grippy thing with as much force as my hands will allow. I have not used additional lever arms. The spanner is still fully operational without any signs of headache that often afflicts adjustable spanners. There is probably a good reason they are only 10” long.
Yes I I have used the spanner on very tight nuts. The technique is to wind the jaws in as tight as possible on the thumb screw with the locking mechanism open then apply the locking action, this removes any play that may have been there. I have never used it as a small piece work holding device but it has occurred to me in the past(before this thread started) that it gripped nuts firmly. Typically I use it as a third hand (typically on the underside of a chassis) where it grips a nut and can be left to its own devices whilst I have at the bolt head with two hands. I was recommended the tool by a fellow vintage motorist and I found mine on Amazon by its reference number which is embossed on the handle.
I can report that the comments about the Stanley tool are unfounded. I have had and used one of these for some years now and can’t imagine that they would “be quite easy to destroy”. I think to do so would require a level of clumsyness that I find difficult to imagine exists among this group.
|Thread: Clubs and societies - talks and presentations|
Drat! Spotted this at 10:30, too late to join.
I don’t suppose I’m the only one to be date disoriented by this lockdown lark but boy does it frustrate🙁.
I’ve just spotted this, a day too late🙁. It sounds like a brilliant idea.
|Thread: Any Book Recommendations on Microstructure of SS|
I’ll second Rollasons, I’ve still got my well thumbed copy👍
|Thread: Spindle Speed|
I checked the spindle speeds of my Chinese import lathe some yeas ago using the sweep hand on my wrist watch, a length of all thread, a nut and a felt tip marker pen. All of these items were in my shed so I didn’t have to spend any money.
I put two marks on the rod as far apart as possible. Whilst holding the nut by hand I ran the lathe at various speeds and timed its travel between the two marks. Having measured the distance between the marks and knowing the pitch of the thread it was simple enough to calculate the rpm. I made sure the free end of the rod was inside the tail stock to guard against the possibility of flailing should the rod get out of hand. I was very conscious of this possibility however things never really showed any signs of running amok.
The speed control on the machine was a simple rotary knob so I put marks on the machine casing using the marker pen and wrote speeds against the marks.
I make no claims about the precision of this method but it was good enough and dead easy to do and it got me going with the lathe. The further apart the marks are the more accurate the results.
|Thread: Good morning|
I should say so Tom with Hisso power😄❗️
My simple way of checking rpm is to chuck a length of threaded bar and put a nut on it. Mark a length on it, set the lathe going , grab the nut so that it runs between the two marks and time it. From the distance and the pitch you can calculate the number of revolutions.
The longer the length the more accurate but beware of the potential of a long thin length flailing if you rev it too mutch. To be safe I usually have the end of the rod inside the taper socket.
See you at Mallory❓❓❓
|Thread: Which Lathe???|
Anyone looking to buy a second hand industrial lathe(or even a brand new chinese offering) suitable for a home workshop could do a lot worse than look at the Leinen LZ4S that is currently advertised on homeworkshop.org situated in Halifax. I have no connection with the advert other than the fact that I own one also and think its a brilliant piece of kit. See what Tony has to say about them on lathes.co.uk.
If anybody on here buys it I would love to hear from them.
|Thread: Workshop Disposal in South Yorkshire|
I have been asked by a friend of a friend to help dispose of the contents a complete workshop. It includes a 6" lathe, a large mill drill, a band saw and a very complete range of tools. It would be a perfect start for anybody wanting to equip a workshop in one go. The machines look to be virtually unused but in pristine condition. If you are interested or know anybody who might be interested please PM me and I will pass on the information.
I have no interest other than to see the kit go to a good home.
|Thread: Tom Senior Advice needed|
All this bold talk of cutting an internal Acme thread myself, I gave in and found Richard Stewart of shotmaster.com who is going to do the job for me. My excuse is that I'm comparatively cash rich compared to my time poverty.!
Thanks to all who offered really useful advice, I'll let you know when I'm up and running.
|Thread: Sharpening Fine tooth slitting Saws|
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