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Member postings for ANDY CAWLEY

Here is a list of all the postings ANDY CAWLEY has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: wire bender
09/09/2019 00:31:46

Life would be easier if you were to use annealed or soft stainless wire.

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 09/09/2019 00:32:43

Thread: Kit Cars
29/07/2019 07:31:57

Looks like a Reliant Sabre to me.

Thread: Treppaning a flywheel
07/07/2019 10:59:14

Were you absolute fastidious about making sure the tool was plunging into the work piece at bang on 90 degrees. If you got it only very slightly out it starts to bind and that’s that‼️ Don’t ask me how I know🙄.

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 07/07/2019 11:00:01

Thread: Learning Fusion 360
04/07/2019 15:22:46

+1 for McWhorter

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 04/07/2019 15:23:04

Thread: What do you use your lathe for?
03/07/2019 19:15:06

Making bits for my vintage motor cars, mainly Frazer Nash or GN .

Thread: Treppaning a flywheel
03/07/2019 19:09:22

Trepanning is a operation that I carry out occasionally. f9644aa1-c052-49ef-afe4-aa0d6adcefcf.jpeg

I do this to a 3/4" pitch plate wheel which is then bolted to a carrier, the finished article is shown above.

I carry out the operation on a fairly heavy duty CVA lathe using the tool shown below.

fb0df1f6-357b-4d5e-a2d8-e81d4b0d453b.jpeg

(This picture is upside down.)

I cant remember how wide the cutting edge is but 4 mm would be about right, every time I do the job I consider reducing the width but never quite get round to it. I wouldn't dream of putting the tool to the job without a full flood of coolant.

61406739-f450-4160-a933-e223195cc592.jpeg

Somehow or other this picture has got upside down!

I cut at fairly slow speed to start with speeding up as I get more confident. I hone the cutting edge and maintain it sharp.

The whole operation is conducted with tightly clenched cheeks and I'm glad when its finished. The material from which the platewheels are made is, I believe, En8.

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 03/07/2019 19:10:57

Thread: Historic Frogs
21/06/2019 01:12:07

a person from France.

Thread: Is CAD for Me?
03/06/2019 19:16:56

Fusion advice, look for Paul McWhorter, i think I’ve spelt it right, on utube. He emphasise and explains well the need to understand sketching. It is fundamental to making it work. He spends a few tutorials on this which lifted the scales from my eyes. Stick with this as he can be a bit repetitive.

AJust in case it’s not clear the sketching bit is the 2D drawing which is then extruded to get the 3D result.

If you’ve ever fallen foul of “constraints” , I have, he explains how to deal with it in simple terms.

 

 

Try it.

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 03/06/2019 19:19:05

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 03/06/2019 19:20:24

Edited By JasonB on 04/06/2019 16:12:07

03/06/2019 19:16:55

Fusion advice, look for Paul McWhorter, i think I’ve spelt it right, on utube. He emphasise and explains well the need to understand sketching. It is fundamental to making it work. He spends a few tutorials on this which lifted the scales from my eyes stick with his as he can be a bit repetitive.

Justin add it’s not clear the sketching bit is the 2D drawing which is then extruded to get the 3D result.

If you’ve ever fallen foul of “constraints” , I have, he explains how to deal with it in simple terms.

 

 

Try it.

Edited By JasonB on 04/06/2019 16:11:47

Thread: Restoration and modifications to a Tom Senior light vertical mill
31/12/2018 18:39:05
Posted by Miles Hellon on 31/12/2018 18:03:58:

Thanks Andy,

Yes, that's a good method.

I realise this isn't a serious drawback of the machine. I'm just somewhat addicted to modifying things smile

Aren't we all?wink

31/12/2018 16:57:20
Posted by Nick Thorpe on 31/12/2018 11:32:04:

Hi Miles. For alignment after moving the head out, I would wind the table up, put a large square on it and align the vertical part of the square with the machined slot on the left side of the head. For complete accuracy I would trammel the head with a dial indicator.

Regards, Nick.

ts.jpg

Edited By Nick Thorpe on 31/12/2018 11:45:51

Just had a thought whilst reading this post. Why not weld a suitable size disc to a shaft and true it off in the lathe. Transfer the assembly to the mill and put the shaft in the chuck. Raise the table to the disc and slacken the head arrangement and allow the table and the disc to align. Bingo one trammed in head.

Its probably an old idea or there's something I haven't thought of, happy new year anywaysmiley.

Thread: Tom Senior M1 Table Drive Rebuild
22/12/2018 01:25:13

Hi Vernon, I have just sent you a PM. I know your post is nearly 4 years old but you might still be interested.

Thread: Turning a tapered tube queries
16/12/2018 13:45:16

At last I made the spacer!

I held the stock in a 4 jaw chuck and series drilled through the centre ending up with a 3/4" blacksmith drill. I then opened out to 20mm with a boring bar,Bearing spindle.jpeg

I was amazed with quality of finish with such a long extension of the boring bar. The above photo shows this. It also shows the spindle for which the spacer is being made. I measured the angle of the taper as 5 degrees and set the compound over at this angle. Having reduced the overhang of the boring bar I then bored the 30mm short parallel.

To bore the taper I extended the boring bar and set it in line with the spindle axis. With the compound slide wound well back I then advanced the cross slide to the bed stop, wound the boring bar in on the compound until it nearly touched the shoulder of the 30 mm bore. Having measured the length of the taper I then marked the compound slide with the length as below.Compound slide marks.jpeg

I then bored the taper winding the compound slide in by hand. Running at 500 rpm it took 0.5 mm cuts quite happily producing blued steel chips and giving a good finish.

To turn the external taper I made a plug for the 20mm bore that the was supported with a revolving tailstock centre.In the lathe.jpegAgain turning at 500 rpm with a 0.5 mm cut.

Final assembly.jpeg

This what the finished assembly looks like, well, it will be improved with a bit of Scotchbrite.

 

In the end it was a lot easier than I anticipated thanks to everyone's advice.yes.

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 16/12/2018 13:47:02

02/12/2018 12:26:10

Harrumphjangry 2, managed to break one of the screws on on my 4 jaw chuck late Friday afternoon. Won't be making swarf today.

29/11/2018 23:35:10

I hope to give it a go this weekend.

28/11/2018 23:27:34
Posted by Hopper on 27/11/2018 11:54:18:
Posted by vintage engineer on 25/11/2018 20:15:07:

Hi Andy

...Have you got enough room in the hub to fit a straight stepped spacer?

This ^^^^. Would make life a lot easier for yourself. Turn it out of one piece of bar, stepped along the way to clear the axle inside and the hub outside.

I agree but what about the challenge!thinking.

26/11/2018 17:09:52

Measure twice, cut once!!

 

Thank you John Mc embarrassed

 

Fortunately I haven't   cut yet!!

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 26/11/2018 17:11:07

25/11/2018 14:12:50

Wha50768e53-a340-4c93-b4e7-46f1830430e0.jpegAfter further consideration this is what I really need. I think it will be simpler to make in three pieces as it is, after all, only a spacer between two bearings of different sizes. I’m currently thinking if I turn my stock to 36mm then bore 19mm and turn the 50mm length inside and out with the narrow end towards the chuck I can then part off and have the bit in the chuck to use for my 14.5mm parallel tube. I can then make the smaller diameter parallel bit from a suitable size of feed stock. I could also make the wall thickness 4mm.

What could possibly go wrong

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 25/11/2018 14:15:31

25/11/2018 10:46:36

I have a couple of tapered tubular bearing spacers to make, approx length 65mm, major dia 38mm and minor diameter 25 ( both outside) and a wall thickness of 3mm.

My plan is to use some 2" steel stock that I have to hand.

Chuck in the four jaw and drill through 19 mm. Then set the compound over at the appropriate angle and turn the taper. As far as I can see I will have to turn with the major diameter away from the chuck.

I do not have the benefit of a steady.

Beyond personal pride dimentional tolerance and surface finish is not critical.

Should I turn the outside or the inside first.

My lathe is a sturdy industrial lathe. ( a Leinen LZ4S without taper turning )

What snags does anyone see.

Thread: Teaching a 17 year old how to use a lathe
30/06/2018 08:45:43

My 17 year old nephew has inherited, from a distant relative, a fully equipped Myford Super 7 complete with screw cutting gearbox, vertical slide etc.

He said " Uncle Andy will you show me how to use it?"

Where do I start and and carry on.

I did not serve time on the tools when I did my engineering at college and am a self taught (with book learning behind me) machinist. Amateur I hasten to add.

 

 

 

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 30/06/2018 08:47:07

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