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Member postings for nipper

Here is a list of all the postings nipper has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Nemet - Lynx
10/11/2017 16:05:48

Hi Pete. Many thanks for the reply I have ordered parts from the company on the link and have reduced the cost from £59, and this may not have included VAT, to £21 including VAT. Now I may be able to afford the ignition system. I will press on and it should be finished by next Spring, unless a railway engine gets in the way.

09/11/2017 10:26:36

Hello. Sorry to get onto this forum very late but I am building the Lynx and come to the part of ordering the pulleys and belt from HPC gears. An order for the 2 pulleys and 2 belts came to £49, which was bad enough, but then the cheapest shipping cost was £9.60. This for a few items in the smallest jiffy bag. I rang them and pointed out the post office will ship a small parcel for £2.90 but they would not budge. Any suggestions as to where I can get it all at a sensible price.

Thread: Miniature Steam Locomotive Management
13/04/2017 19:08:38

Hi Nick. This my last post on this subject. My best friends father was an engine driver, many years after he retired I asked which was his best day as a driver. ' The day the diesels arrived' Nuff said.

10/04/2017 09:56:28

Hi Julian. Thanks for the note, I am David Murray of Staines SME. I am sorry if I seems a bit sharp in my reply but the purpose of my comment was to warn other people of the pitfalls of using charcoal briquets not start a forum on advising me on how to start a locomotive. Thanks anyway.

09/04/2017 21:27:36

Hi Bazyle. Thanks for the reply but I have been driving engines since 1968 so while I felt obliged to warn people about charcoal briquets I do not need advise on how to run them myself. As for water in the tanks , always drain them is my advise.

07/04/2017 12:43:35

Good Morning Peter. I have read your post and it was well done but I have a couple of comments. The reversing lever does not alter the piston travel only the valve travel but of course you knew this and it's a pity it passed the edit. The other, more pertinent issue is about charcoal briquets . I and another member of my club used them and while they got the fire started they clogged up the grate and ashpan, due to the excessive amount of ash, so that the fire went out once coal was added and it could not be recovered. Lump wood is a much better option. Best regards David Murray Staines SME

Thread: flue tubes
16/08/2015 09:44:21

HI julian and Bri. Thanks for the comments perhaps I will replace them as there is no way they can be repaired. Best regards Dave

15/08/2015 17:07:43

I have a 5" locomotive but the superheaters have failed. There are only two anyway and I am considering not replacing them. If I decide not to replace do I leave the flue tubes as they are, block them off or put a restricter in them . Any suggestions.

Thread: speedy valve gear and drawings
09/10/2014 22:44:59

Thanks Julian for leading me to Don's Speedy dimensions. It looks as if I need to make a new drop link, combination lever, radius rod, return crank, lifting arm and maybe move the gear frame. A lot more than I hoped for. I think my cylinders have already been moved forward so that's OK but there is still a lot of work bearing in mind I have all of these parts already made as I am overhauling (bringing back from the dead) a finished chassis. Don's dimension drawing is not very clear but i managed to work out the imperial dimensions by converting the metric drawing back to imperial. Two dimensions were not covered on the metric drawing, the valve head width and the position of the expansion link to eccentric rod attachment. I could not decipher these from the drawing. I assume also that Don does not require any changes to the expansion link size or radius. It would be a great help if these dimensions are available.

Cheers Dave Murray

Edited By nipper on 09/10/2014 22:46:23

07/10/2014 18:51:27

i seem to be coming into this forum rather late but I would like to know which Speedy valve gear design requires the minimum of changes to the original and where can i find a copy of the Don Ashton design.

Nipper

Thread: trevor shortland 51xx regulator
31/08/2011 11:06:56
Hi laurence. You have seen the problem now, its a pity that none of the existing builders replied as they may or may not have had a problem and may have a solution. I would consider a rotary valve as they can be bought really cheaply and I know others have used them. Not on a 51XX I might add. I would send pictures but have not figured out how to do it. I built a 56XX not a 51 but it uses the same boiler, smokebox, cab fittings etc. If I had an E Mail address I could do pictures without a problem. Dave
Thread: injector design
29/08/2011 10:31:19
Hi Clive. If you have back copies of ME look at 11 feb 2000 where Mr brown tells us how to do it. I worked it out for my 56XX and it came out as a measly 6.72 OZ. This is at a constant speed, perfect valve events and 35% cut off etc. You will have to cater for real life such as starting and playing catch up if the water level is low and possibly a poor injector. Hope this helps.
Thread: trevor shortland 51xx regulator
27/08/2011 21:22:29
hi laurence. You are right about the V in the regulator opening, this would give a softer start. In my case I just made it to drawing and at a later date started thinking about the slider, in other words it was too late. In practice it needed a very small opening of the regulator to get started and if the regulator was closed on the move it was almost impossible to reset a small opening due to the small amount of movement required. The forces were very high. Its good now ,as far as ease of movement is concerned, but closing it is a fiddle. As you can see from the drawings there is a degree of leverage on the little slider and little to counteract it. I have considered putting a couple of small bars on the top of the main slider to stop the small one lifting up, that would lock the whole assembly together, while allowing the small one to move but not lift, but this would make it difficult or impossible to fit into the housing. We shall see, perhaps it just needs running in. Best of luck.
26/08/2011 11:06:01
Although there were no replies to my thread I elected to do the modification anyway. This was prompted by the fact that the regulator decided to stop working and when I opened it up the silver solder had broken at the end of the rod, inside the reglator housing, such was the amount of torque required to open it at 100 psi. I did the mod by drilling 3 1/16th holes as the pilot . Most of my worsed fears have come about, it leaks more than it did before and will not close properly without shutting the regulator and then opening slightly. A bit disconcerting as it is unnatural to do this. This is because at the end of the stroke the pilot valve tips up and lets steam into the pilot holes. It easy to use though as the effort is now quite light.
Thread: injector design
26/08/2011 10:52:22
thanks for the comments they were very helpful. I have made a new steam cone with a 61 drill hole as opposed to a 59 so its a couple of thou smaller. It now works well up to 100 psi but is not much good below 50. I will keep one injector as a 30-80 and one as a 50-100. I don't have a pump so reliable injectors are a must. These are reliable, need little or no trimming of the water but do need to have the steam reduced as the pressure increases. Of my seven injectors I have 1 26oz and 4 18oz working well, some without any alteration at all and two untested. My challange now is to get the jublees working well as that are not reliable, they need a lot of water trimming and then run wet. I will recone one and see if I can make it better.
Thread: Piston Rings etc
09/08/2011 21:00:52
Hi robert. I have used silicon 'O' rings in my Pansy for many years and they seem to last quite a long time certainly 300 or so miles and then they were changed because the pistons were out. If the bores are rough it may be a problem suggest honing out the bore to see if it cleans up, remember that the bore is not critical with an O ring, within reason, as you make the piston and ring groove to match the ring and the bore. Alternately I have heard of filling the blowholes with araldite and then cleaning up the bore. I know this is probably a bit late but all the best with it .
Thread: trevor shortland 51xx regulator
08/08/2011 11:01:58
I have built the Trevor shortland 51XX regulator but omitted the pilot valve. The reason was that it presented an additional leakage path through the regulator and I was worried that it could tip up during operation and jam the system. My regulator works fine but is very heavy to operate at 100 PSI and consequently is difficult to set into position particularly on the move. Has anyone built the regulator as designed with a long slot or possibly a series of small holes as the pilot valve. Are there any problems with tipping. I would appreciate any comment. Thanks Dave.
Thread: 5" Shay Boiler
16/06/2011 15:01:24
hi derek. My immediate answer is no, as I am not a boiler maker or know any personally. If you are anywhere near to Staines I can show you the drawings but with the current regulations on boiler sales and certification manufacture is out I am afraid. The boiler in question is three quarters finished ( not by me) and should be finished this year so it would be worth waiting to see the results. Best regards Nipper.
05/06/2011 14:26:57
Hi derek. i have spoken to my friend and he is making a 1920s 3 truck shay classified as 'C'. The boiler dimensions are 18 3/16" long, 8 1/4" high from the foundation ring and is for a 4 1/2 " smokebox. I should add that it is not being made commercially. Hope this helps. Nipper.
03/06/2011 09:53:22
Hi derek. The boiler has been designed using the Souther Fed blue book and Martin Evans's boiler book. I should say that there are many different designs of Shay and many boiler designs. It would help if you described what you are making as this boiler is for a friend and all I know is that it's a three truck shay. Regards nipper.
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