Here is a list of all the postings NJH has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Milling cutter sharpening services|
A good question - I await answers with interest! ( Although I have a Stent under construction so maybe I hope commercial sharpening is not too cost effective! )
I like your pics of William - nicely executed I think. I made a start on this loco when Martin Evans first published the design. I completed the boiler and the frames / motion nearly to the state you are at. Sadly life in general and work demands in particular then brought all to a shuddering halt ! It now sits, reproachfully, on the shelf in the workshop. Maybe one day I will return to it. Please keep posting pics - I've always thought it an attractive loco and would be interested to know how it performs on the track.
Edited By NJH on 04/03/2010 11:41:59
Edited By NJH on 04/03/2010 11:45:11
|Thread: Model Engineering at Cornwall|
|Hi This is only about a 50 mile trip for me so maybe I'll roll down and see you. What are opening times please?|
|Thread: Boley-Leinen drilling attachment|
There are plans for a tailstock sensitive drilling attachment here:-
I've been meaning to make one for some time to fit a Schubert watchmakers lathe I have. The design may need some modification - If you decide to make it let me know how you get on.
This is a really clear and interesting photo journal of your project and you have certainly not overdone the pictures. What's the next challenge and can we be involved with pictures as it progresses?
|Thread: In the Editor's workshop|
Absolutely there should (always?) be articles in ME for the beginner – we were all there once and even some years down the line there are still things I learn from basic articles. The problem with articles for beginners is that there is no such animal as a “standard beginner” – all will have differing degrees of knowledge/experience and indeed equipment. The difficulty with someone of David’s level of knowledge and experience is that he has probably forgotten the problems and lack of knowledge of the raw beginner. I have found him very prepared to respond to questions but he can only do so much. I think he must present the articles as a “correct” way to work and one which, if followed, will result in a satisfactory working model. I guess many newcomers will not have a mill but if the article uses only a lathe then those with a mill will be frustrated and vice versa!
The Stuart 10 models are a good place for beginners to start and many have done so over the years. Would it be possible in some way to involve those beginners making these models to work along with David’s articles and for the problems they encounter to be published along with the articles? A dedicated thread could be set up on this site for questions / answers. As others have commented attendance at the local college is the best way to get a kick-start and it certainly worked for me. Today however such courses are very hard to find and, when found, are very expensive. Learning by sharing problems is a good course.
Edited By NJH on 20/12/2009 20:27:36
Edited By NJH on 20/12/2009 20:29:05
Better than an index - try this !
|Thread: Finishing a casting|
Thank you very much indeed. No excuses now then! I will get on, order the bits and finish the job.....then progress the other 5 projects I have on the go. Maybe, with my ability to put things off , it should be the clock first!
Well John I don't know if that helps you but it certainly helps me. So thanks Stick, Jason and Meyrick. If I can presume on you good folks further can you give any idea where I might best get these products ? Especially JB weld ( one bit will get hot) I ask because I live in the depths of rural Devon where bits for tractors etc are easy to find but they don't bother much about paint finishes! " Thick primer" I guess an automotive parts supplier? Meyrick I can find an aeromodelling shop when next I go to Exeter but Acetone might be tricky?
Elbow grease - I know, I know but luckily this is a small engine! ( and I do have a dremel)
A very good question and one I was about to ask. On past projects the castings have been pretty good but I would like a really good finish on this one. I did contact our esteemed editor and he advised an automotive spray filler which I am yet to track down. However I guess that this would not be suitable for filling casting holes ( nor yet small machining dig-ins whoops!) I doubt that Pollyfilla would suit. How does Anthony Mount achieve that finish on his models and how do good machine manufacturers get that "buy me" look ?
|Thread: Model Engineer 4366|
AT LAST!! An advantage in NOT subscribing. I picked up my (saved) copy at my local newsagent in deepest Devon on Friday morning as usual.
I get increasingly brassed off at the disadvantaging of non-subscribers, especially the restriction of access to portions of this site. We already pay considerably more for our copies than do subscribers. I am prepared to do this as, in this rural area, the only newsagent is very good, supplies other services, and is worthy of support - a real case down here of use it or lose it.. I understand that from the publishers point of view subscribers represent assured income but is the income from sales via the distribution network less than via subscriptions? Come on ME play fair with your long time supporters and open that access to us.
|Thread: What am I doing wrong???|
Looks like it.
Is this a one off requirement for a length of 3mm brass thread? - You could pick up a piece of 3mm brass studding for about £3. Even so the die is always useful of course ( as long as it works!)
All previous advice is good but from your 'photo i would place the split in the die under the silver screw and tighten this first to expand the die.Failing this follow Ian T's latest advice!
Crumbs David !
I’m impressed - I have neither the skill nor the equipment (or maybe the need?) to work to a greater accuracy than 1 thou. Your post though does raise some interesting questions in my mind. All my digital measuring equipment gives me a precise number and presents it in a way that gives it authority - but how accurate is it? (Just because it says “2.34765” do I believe it?) Is its accuracy consistent throughout its range, is it affected by temperature / changes in temperature, humidity, power variations, age ?. If it is so affected by how much? A DRO system is a fairly hefty investment – what life can I expect from it – are any faults repairable and when it does fail will the whole system need to be replaced? How easy are systems to fit and what processes do I need to follow to ensure the alignment and security of the sensors?
How about an article in MEW ?
My query is with David Clark’s comments on DRO in MEW 152. (David this is not directed specifically at you - but of course your comments would be welcome!) Firstly I fully agree with you the near necessity of fitting one to the mill. However I have just upgraded my trusty lathe to a Super 7 and I am seriously considering adding DRO to that. Although I have been “model engineering” for 30 yrs my only “professional” experience was in a brief retirement job where I had access to Colchester Bantam with DRO. I found it wonderful – ability to work in metric or imperial, any backlash in feedscrews now immaterial, the ability to set the required diameter and then carve away until “0” reached. On the “Z” axis just touch the tool on the end of the job, set the length to be turned then feed down to the shoulder and repeat until the required diameter achieved. I accept that a stop would be good for multiple items but surely for “one offs” the DRO is quicker? So before I submit my case to higher authority any thoughts and experiences you may have would be valuable
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