Here is a list of all the postings JohnF has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Milling and drilling slate|
For drilling I would suggest a tile drill, usually a spade type drill made from carbide, 3mm may be a problem? try at a tile shop. As already suggested a diamond tile saw will be best to cut the slate, I have cut tiles using an angle grinder but a tile saw is much better - maybe a pal has one ? For the flats a carbide end mill should do the trick.
|Thread: New member with a question|
Welcome Chris, have a look at the back issues of Mew and Neils articles on using a lathe & mill it will give you some ideas of what you need but rather than go out and buy a heap of stuff you may, may not need I would buy the basics and acquire other things as you go along - depends on what you end up doing.
|Thread: Milling a T slot ??|
Good morning Garry, I am not familiar with traction engines but from your description of the component a T slot cutter is the way to go. Just make sure the cutter , shank relationship is enough to to cut the depth you need, most will be for sure.
|Thread: Greetings from Blackpool|
Welcome Ceteri, there are several ME clubs societies close by but most are railway orientated, we are only 30 miles apart so if want to link up PM me.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 cone clutch lubrication|
Mike open the side cover for the belt change, operation the clutch lever and you will see the centre part move in and out, when disengaged there is a small gap you can see -- a couple of drops of oil into the gap and give it a few moments to work its way down -- job done.
Edited By JohnF on 10/01/2019 13:38:11
|Thread: More help please|
Ha! Reminds me of my first foray into gear cutting as an apprentice my then mentor Ernie who was showing me how set everything up and make a trial cut came to the last cut and said “this where you ask do they want one big one or two little ones”
Flippancy aside from what David says Jason is on the right track something is moving most probably the blank has insufficient clamping force on its mandrel? As Michael suggests a photo of your set up would probably help a lot.
Edited By JohnF on 10/01/2019 11:30:37
|Thread: Identifying Collets|
Philip I think they may be Boxford, have a look on www.lathes.co.uk for Boxford lathe accessories and look at the collets, they are a small version of 5C collets -- can't recall the number ??? I had a set some time back from a machine that was scrapped where I worked, always intended to "do something" with them but flogged them on the well known site - had them maybe 50 years in the store !
Ian, it looks like a collet from a Marlco indexer used extensively on milling machines in the 1960's and earlier for sure. John
Edited By JohnF on 08/01/2019 21:05:41
|Thread: Editing posts and other ideas.|
For Apple, mine is a MacBook just press Shift & Return to move down -- return twice if you want an extra line space
|Thread: Best value parting tool for mild steel?|
I use the standard Eclipse HSS parting tool on both a Myford 7 and an Emco Super 11, no real tool post and no problems. However I have tried the carbide blade and holder style but did not like them due to the additional overhang, I also tried one of this style **LINK** not from Arc but it works very well, however I still use the HSS tool for almost all of my work.
|Thread: New member (South Wales)|
Welcome Steven lots of advice available on here you only need to ask, having a chat to Richard is a great first move in deciding what will work best for you.
To me this thread is an excellent example of why its good to have a public profile showing at least where you live ! If Steven had not mentioned in his post where he lived Richard would no have seen it and offered to meet and they live very close each other.
All you do is click Profile and fill in the parts you are happy with, country, town, county and other details if you wish
|Thread: Black and Decker BD 339 Bandsaw|
Andy, I have a 3 wheel Burgess band saw from c1970 lurking around somewhere, it looks very similar and wonder if the B & D was a clone or badged ? If you PM me with your email we can exchange a photo or two and see if there is anything useful.
As Barrie says they are not the best tool in the world, mine has sentimental value but is used rarely !
|Thread: Fly press resources|
Loosely connected but the Jewellery museum in Birmingham is worth a visit they used many fly presses for punching, forming, blanking etc have a look at the link its well worth a visit with many interesting processes "we" use in our hobby, **LINK**
|Thread: clock key manufacture|
Easiest way is use a square, bar mill a slot to form the key size plus a smidgin' then solder/weld another piece of flat onto the bar, centre in a 4 jaw and turn to a suitable O/D -- hard solder is best. Alternative form one from sheet metal, many of the original were thus.
|Thread: Fobco star chuck question|
My Thoughts --- From what I can see on the photo's I don't think the larger thread is 12tpi it looks little different to the 1/2" 20 tpi in pitch, maybe its for a missing extraction nut assuming the spindle does have a Morse taper ? Never having or used a machine of this make I may be wrong but it seems illogical not put a drift slot in the spindle unless of course it has insufficient travel to expose said slot then a threaded extraction on the end of the taper would be used ?
The thread is almost certain to be 1/2" x 20 UNF this seems to be the standard thread on power tools.
|Thread: Merry Christmas from Australia|
Merry Christmas Danny have a great day ! It'll be warmer than here !!!
|Thread: Its that time again|
Merry Christmas one and all and a very happy and prosperous 2019
|Thread: What material is it|
Martin, as Neil says aluminium bronze comes in different alloys, it is difficult to machine but certainly not impossible and it is also highly corrosion resistant. The components I was machining many years ago were for submarine seawater services [corrosion resistant ] and were for want of a better description "very large plumbing fittings" pipe diameters of 6 to 12 inches, large flange's on castings to be machined then drilled and tapped or drilled and spot faced. The factory also produced other components from bar stock.
Sharp HSS tools are the order of the day and increase the top rake a little, for drilling, thin the point to ease the process and grind VERY slightly offset so it cuts slightly oversize -- do not alter the flute rake as for brass. The best cutting medium is suds, it can generate a lot of heat when cutting. Your tools must be sharp !
I have machined this material successfully on my Myford with correctly ground tools etc.
Plus 1 for Aluminium Bronze machined a lot of this in the past and as Colin also say’s it’s difficult to drill, grabs the drill if you are not careful. One other point don’t use it as a bearing material (bushes) it is totally unsuitable— I know this from experience with a small engine I was repairing many years ago.
Edited By JohnF on 16/12/2018 10:22:30
|Thread: Single point thread cutting|
There is a sequence you can use to disengage the half nuts when cutting metric threads on an imperial lathe, I have posted this before. I am not sure it will work in this instance but you could try the method "dry" i.e. after the initial cut with the tool close to the work to observe whether its path matches the thread : -
Screwcutting Metric / Imperial
When screw cutting a metic thread on an imperial lathe you can use the chaser dial and disconnect the half nuts when cutting up to a shoulder by doing the following : -
First make sure you engage the half nuts with the chasing dial on a particular number — number 1 is best
Then make your first cut and at the end of the cut disengage the half nuts and stop the lathe and retract your tool exactly as you would if it was an imperial thread — DO NOT move the carriage — this is very important.
Now the thread dial will have passed number 1 so start the lathe in reverse and re-engage the half nuts on number 1 and run it back to the start point of the thread. No need to disengage here just stop the lathe apply the second cut and start the lathe forward then repeat the above at the end of the cut. This allows you to finish at a shoulder or undercut without fear of a disaster !
Above is a copy of instructions I sent to another person on the forum, Logic says to me it will work but the proof of the pudding !!!
I do have a metric lathe, Boxford, and cut metric threads using the dial but always use the numbers indicated on the chart and it works fine up to now.
Hope this helps regards John
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