Here is a list of all the postings JohnF has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Article on profile tooling for a lathe?|
Old Mart is correct there have been a couple of articles using the taper turning attachment with a profile template, if my memory is good one was making a fusee. I feel sure it was in MEW ???
Edit fusee link
Edited By JohnF on 23/11/2020 20:26:03
Thinking allowed-- maybe using this principle with a template tied to the TT or a suitable bracket if the TTA is not available then a spring load applied to the cross slide as Jason suggests and a suitable follower with maybe a small roller following the template.
Edited By JohnF on 23/11/2020 20:30:46
|Thread: "Clog" toolpost- replace?|
Hi William, not quite sure what you mean by "clog type" tool post unless its the triangular single clamp that was supplied originally ?
However you mention a quick change system, personally I would go for the Dickson type, I have been using these since they first appeared in the 1960's I have them on all my lathes in appropriate sizes. Now you can only purchase clones but if you buy from a well known reputable supplier, Myford, RDG, Chronos etc and continue to buy any additional holders from the same source you should be OK.
There are other designs available and one that seems to have a good reputation are those sold by Arceuro -see the ad herein.
On all of these you will need to use a smaller took bit 3/8" or 10mm square HSS is a good start.
|Thread: Smart and Brown Model L|
Hi Paul, It depends on what you intend to do/make but as a plain turning lathe for small parts you will find none better but it will never replace a surfacing. sliding, screwcutting lathe i.e. a traditional lathe such as Myford or similar whether its of home origin or Far Eastern origin.
If the machine is affordable I would go for it but you will probably find the need another more versatile machine as well ?
|Thread: Straight edge for checking the slide ways on my mill's knee|
Gauge plate is not guaranteed to “flat” or “straight “ over its length unless ground to be so and I think this is unlikely on commercially produced stock. Better than nothing but IMO not good enough for the job in hand.
what you really need is a camel back straight edge preferably with the facility to check the V as well.
Or start from scratch and use 3 pieces to scrap in sequence and end up with a perfectly straight tool for the job
Edited By JohnF on 25/10/2020 18:27:44
|Thread: Broken Verdict DTI|
Verdict do offer a repair service but if you can get the broken piece out as Steve suggests it may well be just fine with a new stylus. Not 100% sure but i have a recollection that the thread is 8BA ?????
|Thread: Car says catalyser is blocked|
Theft is not due to the associated problems, its because they contain a considerable amount of precious metals, mainly platinum I believe, thus worth a lot as scrap and the problem is not confined to Essex !
|Thread: Digital readings|
The bottom one I can visualise the size, the top only after a mental calculation to approximate an imperial size ! I do use the metric system for some carpentry -- why? well my saw bench has a metric scale so its easier to use millimetres ! For all, well 99% of engineering I use imperial because thats what I was brought up with and all my tools many from apprentice days are imperial, same with all my machines except one lathe.
I used to import a fair amount of product from Italy and of course it was all metric, often we would be discussing size, tolerance etc -- metric tolerance in microns, very confusing to me so asked them to send me a list of the terms used thus with a quick 0.03937 calculation to convert.
Metric Micron 0.001mm
1 millimetre = 0.03937"
0.1 decimo = 0.00397"
0.01 centesimo = 0.00039"
0.001 micron = 0.000039"
I found this useful, 1mm is fairly easy at 40 thou but when it get down to 1/100 or 1/1000 it is not easy to visualise.
|Thread: Square block with round steel balls inside|
If my memory is good I recall a great many years ago the couple Armand & Michaela Denis had a programme showing some “indigenous people” in a far flung land using the most rudimentary tools on probability a pole lathe turning balls within balls within balls from — horror of horrors Ivory I think ? So possibly somewhere on or close to the Indian sub continent? The balls were subsequently engraved or carved on the outer surfaces.
Anyone else remember this ?
Edited By JohnF on 16/10/2020 16:17:26
|Thread: Tanking slurry|
Have a look at Sovereign Chemicals at Barrow-in-Furness they do all kinds of products for damp proofing, whether they have something suitable I don't know but well worth an ask. I do know they make and supply chemicals for injection damp coarse and it works vey well, daughters old farm house was done and very successful.
|Thread: Chinese BS0 Dividing Head|
Same as Tony, the one i purchased from Chronos was a Vertex version -- no complaints
|Thread: FC3 'disposable' cutters in ER Collet?|
Might be worth looking on ArcEuro site here **LINK**
Edit Jason beat me to it !
Edited By JohnF on 10/10/2020 18:41:06
Ian P -- pretty much everything has been said, I too adopted Ramon & Mike's method some 50 plus years back when FC3 cutters appeared, I used 5/8" Silver Steel bored and reamed to size with a 4BA grub screw to lock the cutter. Still have them and use regularly.
The only other way you could consider is purchase and ER11 or ER16 chuck with a parallel shank to suit you largest ER25 collet and use this for the FC3 cutters.
Whitening was used extensively to paint ceilings when mixed with water, whats the purpose of painting the piston rings with whitening mixed with meths ? To de-grease maybe?
|Thread: Another scam|
You can report such scams here --- firstname.lastname@example.org -- its a government site collating cyber scams, whether it does any good or not I don't know but if more people send things in it may well help ?
Link to HMG site
|Thread: Restoring a wooden tool box, help needed|
You can use Oxalic acid to remove oil and stains from wood, use liberally and allow to dry then wash off and rub on lime or borax to help neutralise the acid and wash off. Allow plenty of time to dry naturally -- don't dry with heat. However gently heat will bring oil to the surface and you can wipe it off but I have found the acid works better ,at least on gun stocks !
Please do wear suitable protective gear, Oxalic acid is not really nasty like say Nitric acid but still treat with v=care and respect.
edit - forgot to say you mix the acid crystals with water to apply to the wood
Edited By JohnF on 27/09/2020 20:32:10
Edited By JohnF on 27/09/2020 20:32:28
|Thread: which older mill to complement a ML7?|
Pablo, penny farthing tools currently have an Emco FB2 for sale - had mine for many years and never regretted the purchase **LINK**
|Thread: Stuck SDS drill bit|
Here is an article about SDS shanks **LINK** it may be useful ? I guess you are talking about SDS & SDS plus shanks ?
Material for the drill shanks will be some form of alloy steel capable of being heat treated, never had a reason to try but it probably is not too hard and more likely made tough and shock and wear resistant.
Looking at the article it seems it may be possible to insert standard bits into a plus holder ? but not the other way around ? Have you tried running the machine in reverse with hammer action on for a short time to see if it releases the bit ? Did you grease the bit before inserting into the holder/chuck ? [not trying to teach Grandpa to suck eggs etc ]
|Thread: Steel stock for newbie ???|
Ian, one other thing I would recommend is mark your steel or alloy materials so that you know whats what, I use paint which is a pretty standard way of doing it, however as far as I'm aware there is no standard colour range used? so just used whatever I had and made a "chart" A dab of colour on the end of the bar is all thats needed
Where I worked all Silver steel and gauge plate were marked so but the store man. colour was blue so I use the same for this.
My "Chart" !!!
|Thread: Emco 8.6 - Tumble Reverse Position for Screwcutting?|
Hi Avery, there is an Emco section on groups.io but seems to be little regarding the 8 series but I would suggest you join and ask the question.
However if you terminology is the same as this side of the pond the tumbler reverse normally only changes the direction of travel of the carriage and thus whether you are cutting left or right hand threads. There is more detail but thats the basics.
Hi Gary, I have not read all the posts so apologies if I repeat etc, I too have worn varifocals for many years and no real issues however I would say make sure you get a top of the range lens -- not "mum's own" brand - there is a big difference in user performance at least that's been my experience [Wife's experience also] I have had Seiko, Zeiss, Nikon and all have been excellent. The first pair I had were an unknown brand and pretty much put me off varifocals but was persuaded to try a "better" brand by the optician -- as different as night & day !
As with all spectacles they are great but not so good as mother nature's originals !
Edited By JohnF on 31/08/2020 19:38:08
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.