Here is a list of all the postings JohnF has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Hello from the Lake District|
Hello Mark and welcome to the forum, lots of interesting questions and answers on here ! I am sort of "local" to you in the Lune valley near Lancaster.
|Thread: Metric micrometer what t buy?|
Henry -- Amadeal link **LINK**
Now a bit more expensive but this appears to be the set I purchased, there is no brand on them at all not even Amadeal !
Edited By JohnF on 17/11/2019 20:13:44
Henry - my two bits ! Pretty much all my tools/machines are imperial and mostly top end acquired during a lifetime in engineering, M & W, Starrett, Tesa Etalon Mitutoyo etc. I do like good tools !
However I do occasionally need to measure metric so decided to purchase some metric mics, not wishing to spend a large sum because of only very occasional use I opted for a far eastern set from Amadeal -- 4 micrometers from 0 to 100mm for about £45 at the time. They are very acceptable indeed amazing for the price, all have carbide tips and the "feel" during use is excellent IMO.
|Thread: What would you call this tool|
I am sure Jason is spot on, very similar to the one on my Boxford T & C grinder --- try Google " tool grinder universal workhead" and look at the images. The motor does look a bit of flash up but even so may well be original ? I can see a badge on the base in the first photo - a clue here maybe ?
|Thread: Fly Tying Vice|
Well Vic, here is one on a shark hook originally tied by my Wife some 30+ year ago as a joke for a keeper pal from down country, an ardent fly fisher, who came to fish our river but it was in flood - some 10ft above normal so he was presented with said fly as an example of what locals used "in heavy water " The hook is approx 18in long and 6in gape
|Thread: Smart and brown 1024 round head|
Marcus, we have one of these machines running on an inverter, my son did the electrickery -- not my forte' but I am sure an alternative motor was fitted because the original 2 speed motor is not suited to VFD drives ?
I'll check with him tomorrow and let you know.
|Thread: Been an idot with my Clarkson T&C Grinder - can you help?|
James see your messages
|Thread: Fly Tying Vice|
Thunder & Lightening ?
Very nice vice -- well one !
Edited By JohnF on 27/10/2019 20:52:15
|Thread: H/V or tilting rotary table.|
Well here's my three-penneth many years ago I used a rotary tilting table very regularly, it was indeed one of the most used and essential pieces of kit in the department [jig boring]
However looking briefly at some of those on offer they would be of limited value because of the configuration of the axis' It is essential that the tilt axis is in the same plane as the rotary axis and normally the maker would attach a plate with the precise dimension of the tilt axis centre from the base and the distance from its centre to the table plane thus you can calculate the "new" centre point can be calculated when you tilt the table i.e. the distance you need to move the x axis for the spindle to remain over the table centre or any point on the workpiece from which you can calculate movement to any features you need to produce on the workpiece.
Clearly most ME use will not need or justify the cost of these but I did see a modestly priced on on Amadeal that appears to be constructed in this way ?? there will I'm sure be other makes as well.
These days I would surmise much of this work can be done on multi axis CNC -- something beyond my ken, I am strictly a manual machinist !
|Thread: Not really an engineer from NW England|
Welcome Allen from another Lancastrian as well as Davide, I also live near Lancaster in the Lune valley - wonder where you are ?
Maybe we should start a Lancaster Group !
|Thread: M & W DR961 Micrometer|
Well done Michael, hopefully this will help Roger to figure out how to "time" the micrometer
There is a metric version on Ebay at the moment and it quotes a British paten number BRIT.PAT.1158293 which may give a clue -- might have look tomorrow too late right now !
|Thread: Would you buy one of these collets?|
For me its a no ! When using larger cutters its far better to use a screwed shank cutter and a Clarkson [style] chuck. Better not to push beyond the design limits IMO.
However If you did choose to go there I would consider making a split collar that goes over the extended part of the collet and lock it in place with an allen screw thus supporting the thin walls and not allowing them to splay outwards. Still not the best option -- use the right tool for the job !
|Thread: Creating Heat for Hardening|
Martin, Much has already been said but why not do a test on one chisel, just make a simple hearth, heat say 1/3 to 1/2 the blade to a cherry red in subdued daylight and quench in water -- test with a file, if it hard your on a winner if not dump them and buy better !
Assuming it goes hard then clean up to bright metal and temper by heating the rear of the blade allowing the colours to traverse up to the tip, temper to a dark straw and quench. Tempering MUST be done in daylight, not artificial light and not in bright sunlight, on a cloudy day its fine or move to a shaded area.
Case hardening for this purpose is a none starter unless it was a single use job, resharpening would remove the case and your back to soft metal.
Here is a link with far more info than you need but you may find it interesting
|Thread: Saw doctor|
Bob, have look at these links,
I don't know where you are located but if close enough to Harrogate there is a woodwork show there in November and I'm pretty sure there may well be a demo on saw sharpening ?
Even so you have little to loose by having a go yourself, buy an old saw of a car boot or ??? study the links and have a try. It is indeed and art and will only come with practise but you may well surprise yourself !
Bob have a look at Skelton Saws **LINK** they make excellent hand made traditional saws and may well be able to assist
|Thread: 3 jaw runout problems|
Hi Richard, I have read quite a few responses but to me at least its not clear EXACTLY what type of chuck you have regarding the jaws - are the jaws 1 piece removable or are the 2 piece held by cap screws, see this link for an example **LINK**
Maybe a photo of your chuck will clarify, the type of jaw may make a considerable difference to the solution
|Thread: Smart and Brown 1024 lathe|
Dave I worked on a 1024 for several years in the 60's and they do have a safety trip on the traverse, safety rather than an auto disengage ! Yours is probably a bit gummed up so has not completed the cycle. One of my pals used to do all the maintenance so I will ask him. SEE your messages
|Thread: Antique car electrics|
Jeff please see your messages ----- but briefly I was on a fishing trip in Scotland last year and we all stayed with a mutual pal who has lots of old "stuff" among this was a Peugeot pickup from the 1920's so contacted him and although not a forum member has has some info that may be useful
|Thread: Ring Mount|
Raphael, is this your lens ? **LINK**
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