Here is a list of all the postings JohnF has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Mallable Iron|
John, the clue is in the name "malleable " I believe you should be able to straighten the part sufficiently to machine it to size. If you have a muffle furnace to re-heat-treat the casting you could heat up and bend it straight then heat treat to restore the properties but I believe you can manage without this for such a small adjustment.
Have a look t this link -- very informative particularly look at "Malleable Cast Iron properties" about 1/2 way down **LINK**
|Thread: Barrier Cream|
I don’t use barrier cream but do use gloves now and then, don’t like them but ! For washing I use washing up liquid actually Fairy liquid, works great and seems to be none aggressive on the skin—like the advert !
|Thread: Rounded Torx Screw Removal|
Use a Dremel or similar with a small cutting disc to make a screwdriver slot, then slightly round the screwdriver to match and it should come out. Did my Screwcutting tool years ago and still use a normal screwdriver because I am unable to purchase a new screw—- 1/8 x 40 Whitworth!
|Thread: Murad cadet lathe|
Carl, you may be already familiar with this site but just in case you are not **LINK**
In any event this will boot your post to the top and maybe someone with a machine will come along with useful info
|Thread: More mystery tools|
Howard hand engraving is far from a dying art, it is alive and well look at this link for Cesare Giovanelli's school in Italy **LINK** note entrance where the flags are -- it is in the shape of graver point. Giovanelli is a very interesting person - worth a read, also a very unassuming man.
There are lots of engravers working in the UK as well particularly in the gun trade as well as jewellery etc, incredibly skilful people !
|Thread: Osborn UK|
Remember Osbourn very well from the '60's, they also made HSS lathe tools designated VG always charcoal black colour and very tough, not sure of the spec now although I still have some and they defiantly surpassed "normal" HSS for performance on tough steels.
Another product was T32 drills [ "treatment" maybe? ] these were again superior in performance on tough materials, they were standard jobber drill length but with a short flute length, similar to todays spotting drills, also charcoal grey in colour.
|Thread: Any Myford ML7 experts near Guildford?|
Hi don't know if these chaps are still doing services but they used to work for Myford -- look at the links
|Thread: Jet Washer Nozzle|
Good squirt of WD40 usually does the trick
|Thread: Tapping a thread|
If its a one off only why not screw cut it running in reverse so you are not worrying about hitting the bottom of the hole i.e. carriage moving left to right and starting at the bottom of the hole with an undercut.
Saves buying a tap for one piece ?
Edited By JohnF on 06/07/2019 17:32:05
|Thread: Threaded rod|
Looking on the woodsmith site at the canister article there does not seem to be any reason why it cannot be 5 tpi in place of 6tpi and there are more 5 tpi bars available, you could also compromise on the diameter as well if need be.
Just make sure you buy a single start thread and not a multi start !
Does it have to be 6tpi ? it seems to limit your choices -- depends on the "why" for 6 tpi ?
|Thread: Tungsten Putty?|
Quite a bit of info on this site **LINK** regarding tungsten and other heavy metals. I machined quite a bit if this back in the 1960's it was always referred to as "heavy alloy" we had to return the swarf for reprocessing. The components were called - control weights - and were for use in aircraft, can't remember the specific aircraft though.
The material was tough on tooling/cutters, a few years ago I acquired some to make some weights as samples for a company in Italy and still have a piece of bar left and a box of swarf ! It was again tough and very difficult to tap the threads hole required.
|Thread: 8BA to 1/8 Whitworth|
Michael, you may well be right from your expanded photo however the proof of the pudding etc, the best way is to hold an 8BA tap against the thread and use only the number of pitches the nut will have - not many they are quite short. Although I have never come across one it is worth noting that its very close to 3/32 x 48 BSF ???
It is most unlikely that the thread would have been anything but a "British standard" -- used advisedly because of the time this reel was made -- which would point to Whitworth, BSF to BA but I appreciate there were a great many threads used in various industries.
ND yes you are as far as I am aware correct about the initials RB
[Michael you can take the hat off ! ]
Nearly done, just go for 8BA and I'm sure you will find it OK , I have made many parts for these reels over the years and never found anything other than BA or Whitworth threads on them. I just made a locking screw over the W/end for one 5/32 Whit LH. see photo.
The reason for the very small anomalies in the sizes is due to wear on the tools - taps and dies - most of these craftsmen as an apprentice purchased a die plate -- you see heaps of them on the auction site, just a flat plate slightly egg shaped with die thread cut in, these were used to make the taps and in time became worn but because the parts fitted together it mattered not.
As a matter of interest Hardy [of Alnwick] vintage reels mostly have the initial or mark of the man who made it stamped inside thus if you needed a spare part or additional spool it would go back to the person who made it.
Just to recap I would make a new one and you may or may not know after the lock nut is fitted the top of the thread was very, very lightly riveted over so it could not be lost.
Looks like a Hardy Perfect strapped tension adjustment lock nut, most threads on these are BA except the centre locking screw in the spool and these are either 1/8th or 5/32 LH Whitworth. The thread does not look worn to me so I would make a new nut from nickel silver or brass -- the were made from either material but usually match the adjuster which on your reel is Nickel Silver.
Worth noting on many of these and gun locks the threads are very near but often oversize due to wear on the dies use -- interchangeability was not a issue back then.
|Thread: Total newbie question - Collet identification|
Looks to be from a Marlco or similar indexing unit often used on horizontal mills, have a look here to see a set - no indexing tool though **LINK**
|Thread: Is this cheap type of VFD worth buying?|
I recently purchased this unit **LINK** from this well known Chinese supplier. I'm a bit of a dummy with electronics but number one son is pretty good so he wired it up and it works fine. It does of course need a control pendant to make the best of it.
I fitted a pukka one from Transwave to my Myford last year and would still go that way for a similar situation, however what prompted me to try the less expensive uint was I purchased an industrial quality linisher which had a 3 phase motor so it was either buy a new single phase with a reversing switch or go the Chinese inverter route fo less money. I could not justify the price of the UK supplied units for this situation.
My feelings are its hoses for courses !
|Thread: New member intro!|
Welcome Mohammed you will find this a very friendly forum and anything you need to know just ask and you will almost certainly get an answer whatever the subject.
|Thread: Meek screwcutting dog-clutch|
I have been watching this with great interest and wonder if you will be publishing a book or drawings etc for this clutch? Is is indeed a very clever design and fitted neatly into the machine, my compliments.
|Thread: boxford 10 XX lathe|
Alex, If you don't get a response try putting "Boxford SST 10 " in the keyword search box above and message the posters - hope fully you will get a response.
Look at **LINK** not a Hi resolution image but it may help.
Good luck with your project
PS where are you in NZ ?
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