Here is a list of all the postings JohnF has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: which older mill to complement a ML7?|
Pablo, penny farthing tools currently have an Emco FB2 for sale - had mine for many years and never regretted the purchase **LINK**
|Thread: Stuck SDS drill bit|
Here is an article about SDS shanks **LINK** it may be useful ? I guess you are talking about SDS & SDS plus shanks ?
Material for the drill shanks will be some form of alloy steel capable of being heat treated, never had a reason to try but it probably is not too hard and more likely made tough and shock and wear resistant.
Looking at the article it seems it may be possible to insert standard bits into a plus holder ? but not the other way around ? Have you tried running the machine in reverse with hammer action on for a short time to see if it releases the bit ? Did you grease the bit before inserting into the holder/chuck ? [not trying to teach Grandpa to suck eggs etc ]
|Thread: Steel stock for newbie ???|
Ian, one other thing I would recommend is mark your steel or alloy materials so that you know whats what, I use paint which is a pretty standard way of doing it, however as far as I'm aware there is no standard colour range used? so just used whatever I had and made a "chart" A dab of colour on the end of the bar is all thats needed
Where I worked all Silver steel and gauge plate were marked so but the store man. colour was blue so I use the same for this.
My "Chart" !!!
|Thread: Emco 8.6 - Tumble Reverse Position for Screwcutting?|
Hi Avery, there is an Emco section on groups.io but seems to be little regarding the 8 series but I would suggest you join and ask the question.
However if you terminology is the same as this side of the pond the tumbler reverse normally only changes the direction of travel of the carriage and thus whether you are cutting left or right hand threads. There is more detail but thats the basics.
Hi Gary, I have not read all the posts so apologies if I repeat etc, I too have worn varifocals for many years and no real issues however I would say make sure you get a top of the range lens -- not "mum's own" brand - there is a big difference in user performance at least that's been my experience [Wife's experience also] I have had Seiko, Zeiss, Nikon and all have been excellent. The first pair I had were an unknown brand and pretty much put me off varifocals but was persuaded to try a "better" brand by the optician -- as different as night & day !
As with all spectacles they are great but not so good as mother nature's originals !
Edited By JohnF on 31/08/2020 19:38:08
Mark -- photos and your location may help !
See this link for adding photos --- **LINK**
|Thread: Mystery item Myford ML 7 purchase|
Some form of indexing device off a Tool & Cutter grinder ?
|Thread: Die Plate|
Many years ago I was told by an old chap in Birmingham’s gunmaking quarter these were purchased as an apprentice and used to make your taps and taps to make dies when needed. Over time they become worn hence the screws (pins in gunmaking) became larger but of course anything made still fitted perfectly. Interchangeability was not a consideration ! Now you often find threads on early 20th century guns that are “nearly” BA or small Whitworth threads but oversize etc.
In all probability the same applies to other craftsman industries of yesteryear.
|Thread: 6" Stainless Steel Pipe|
One of the main reasons for adding at the very least your country in your profile ! Better if you are more specific, county, town but just country would be most helpful
|Thread: decent 4 jaw chuck to fit myford speed 10?|
Jon, see your messages
|Thread: Height Gauge|
On Ebay now from Rotagrip 12: imperial resolution 0.001"
Chronos also have them but more expensive John
Edited By JohnF on 15/08/2020 20:18:00
|Thread: Smart and Brown 1024 Lathe|
Peter, its a long, long time since I had mine apart but if you PM me with your email I do have a pdf & jpg copy of the manual which may be some help. Its just sectioned diagrams/drawings of the machine sections with all the part numbers on -- no explanations but it will assist in what is where.
I would use a different material ! EN19T would be better, easy to obtain and machines well.
Edit! Standard practise really but forgot to say turn all diameters in one operation, support it with a centre in the tailstock and don't forget to leave a service end to remove the centre. If there are threads [most likely] I would screw cut them.
Edited By JohnF on 06/08/2020 22:06:38
|Thread: Coping with deafness|
Chris, I had the same problem on two fronts when I started with hearing aids, mine are the behind the ear type with a tube into the ear canal. I had considerable discomfort with the top of my ear caused by the tube and the ear canal due to the size of the cushion/plug on the end. Both were resolved easily with different components.
Well worth asking the ENT specialist what they can do IMO.
|Thread: Cutting an M33 x 3.5 thread on my ML7|
Captain, most things have been said already however the first thing I would make is plug gauge to test the internal thread you are cutting. Measure the mandrel thread using the 3-wire method then replicate the thread on a piece of steel bar so you can be sure the thread in any attachments you care to make will fit the mandrel on the wood lathe.
Also remember you cannot disengage the half nuts when cutting a metric thread on an imperial lathe, you must travers the carriage back between each cut. However if you do have a chasing dial there is method of using it but not in the normal way, I do have a written explanation if you want it but have a look at this link for a pretty good video of the method **LINK**
Lastly you asked the bore size for the thread and Brian is correct at 29.5mm but I would recommend you truncate the thread by 0.1 - 0.2 mm so make the bore 29.6 - 29.7 thus ensuring clearance on the root of the mandrel. Also remember to take this into account when cutting the thread to depth.
|Thread: Ultimate Universal Machine ?|
MichaelG thanks that a much better link ! There are some interesting things pop up now and then on the Facebook pages relating to machining etc -- the rest of it -- well !!!!!
|Thread: Sources for case hardening or pre-hard steel|
Clive for the material I would suggest M-machine metals **LINK** no connection other than a happy customer. If you want to buy a "standard" full length of material they will cut it into say 3ft lengths and send it to you.
As for EN19  this is not a case hardening steel, you can harden and temper it but to achieve reliable results on a batch of components you really need a muffle furnace. The same applies to case hardening. The process you describe above will not produce a case hardened surface on EN19.
It all depends on the standard you need to achieve and the final purpose of the components ?
PS As you may be aware you can purchase steels already heat treated in the T condition EN19T EN24T one of these may be OK for your project ? Both can be machined as supplied.
Edited By JohnF on 28/07/2020 10:18:39
|Thread: Ultimate Universal Machine ?|
Hi everyone there has been several discussions about universal machines, machines of the future etc etc. I came upon this by chance and thought it would be interesting to members
|Thread: Making sense of big numbers|
Nicholas it’s the Pilgrim Fathers fault —- took the wrong bucket for the gallon ! Can’t spell proper either 😇
Trouble is what is a TRUE Billion ?
It was when I went to school a Billion = bi - million i.e. 1 million million 1,000.000.000.000 but it was I believe Mr Wilson who in the 1970's ? decided to devalue it to 1.000,000,000 i.e. one thousand million !
The same logic applied to 1 trillion = 1 million, million million !!
Guess we are stuck with the new order !
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