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Member postings for Stub Mandrel

Here is a list of all the postings Stub Mandrel has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Sieg C0 Micro Lathe
20/01/2014 19:10:11

In the 1930s the equivalent of a C0 was one of these:

In a 1940s ME a contributor documented their improvements to an 'un-named lathe' that was probably an Adept and they went a bit further than what would be required for your C0.

Salaries have increased by almost exactly 200 times since 1930 so the affordability of the current equivalent of 12/6 would be £125. I would guess you could make and market the Adept at £125, but i don't think many people would buy it as it is far cruder than the C0.

On the other hand we replaced our TV with an32" HD one for under £150... like HDDs, the difference is in the level of demand - volume of sales has far more impact on price than material costs.


Thread: Workshop Practice Series on eBay: Copyright Infringement?
19/01/2014 11:34:19

DMB, I suspect it is not quite as you think. Having some experience of reproducing old publications in new ones, the poor reproduction is a symptom of making new offset plates from old printed copy; not el-cheapo, just the constraints of pre-digital processes..


Thread: Re-starting after a number off years
18/01/2014 22:02:01

Nice house Jim, I'm refurbishing a bathroom right now having done a kitchen... the challenge of doing it all from scratch seems huge!

A lovely big workshop ready to mess up, as others have noticed. let's see some swarf soon


Thread: Open thoughts
18/01/2014 21:47:59

No myth... **LINK**

A little more subtle than inches for millimetres, but not much!


Thread: What did you do today? (2014)
18/01/2014 20:01:23

Speedfit and bending copper pipes. Entertaining...


Thread: Metalworking Fluids - Updated information
17/01/2014 20:11:03

> scrotal carcinogen

I'll add that to my list of Shakespearian insults.


Thread: What did you do today? (2014)
17/01/2014 14:27:48

Learned that 12.5 degree swept-T joints for 110mm soil pipe are like hen's teeth. I've managed to fit in a standard T a bit higher, but I'm still not happy...

Also discovered that hammering 4.5" nails through studding, ceramic tiles, lath and plaster and into the joist behind works.

Knackered now, but still more timber to put up...


Thread: Workshop Practice Series on eBay: Copyright Infringement?
17/01/2014 14:25:17

> As with music it is the greed of the publisher in overcharging that drives the pirate market and deprives the aurthor of the revenue from bulk sales of good value products.

I beg to disagree. The WPS books are still a going concern, as seen by their continued reprinting by successive publishers, each of whom will have paid for the copyright. It costs a lot more to print a book than a magazine, and then you may have to hold the stock for years. Each WPS book costs about the same as 2 1/2 magazines. I don't think that's an unreasonable price to pay - and unlike music there isn't a big market for live model engineering performances, t-shirts and posters to prop up the revenue lost to the pirates.


Thread: forming a thread on piano wire
16/01/2014 21:25:56

Piano wire is tricky stuff. If you are re-hardening the piano wire you also need to temper it to blue, simply quenching will leave it very brittle.

Is there an alternative method you could use? Could you make a threaded collet to hold the piano wire or loctite it in place?.


16/01/2014 20:52:14

Have you tried annealing the end of the rod and letting it cool as slowly as possible?


Thread: Hick & Son Crank Overhead Engine
16/01/2014 20:45:58

My problem is I can break 1mm cutters by looking at them.


Thread: Hot bandsaw........
16/01/2014 14:44:58

I've bought mine from **LINK** since the chap moved from Dragon Saws. Tell hime what saw you have and what you do with it.

Roy, my version has a centrifugal fan and it's meant to blow air along the sides of the motor, not through it. The motor is a sealed unit and the coils are in close thermal contact with the case, as described in another recent thread. There should be a cover for the fan that directs the draught.


Thread: Cheap and safe machine worklight
15/01/2014 21:15:07

As this thread has come back to life, I'll mention that a month or two ago I bought four GU10 LED bulbs from an EBAY seller for about £10. I chose cool white of about 4W. My wife hated them, and said tehy were much less bright so I put the 35W standard bulbs back in.

As is the way of these things, two of the 35 watters went together and I replaced them with LED ones. It became apparent that they are actually much brighter in terms of illuminating the room, they just don't have the concentrated bright narrow beam of the halogen bulbs.

As the halogens blow we are now up to four LEDs again and everyone now prefers the quality for the light, which seems better suited to a kitchen.

Because of the low heat from these bulbs they would be ideal in the workshop.

When the bulbs in our bedroom start to fail I shall get dimmable warm white LEDs to replace them.

Final thought - halogen GU10's seem to last a lot longer when run off a dimmer, but conventional bulbs seem to suffer when used with one.


Thread: Open thoughts
15/01/2014 20:57:50

I'm reasonably well qualified - but not in engineering

I'm an ecologist, and I learned most of my real 'ecology' out looking at the real thing and working with land managers after I left college. IMy first job was pure manual work (rhody bashing at Ynys Hir). I learned an awful lot about everything from how to dig holes without knackering myself, to how strip and sharpen a chainsaw from my workmates who,if they had any qualifications, never told me about them.

On the other hand two of the most brilliant, insightful and inspiring ecologists I know are both professors.


Thread: What did you do today? (2014)
15/01/2014 20:12:31

Neat aren't they, Alan.

Lovely dial Martin.


Thread: Hot bandsaw........
15/01/2014 17:22:32

I use my saw on the middle speed and it cuts through 3 1/4" round in about 10-15 minutes at a guess. this leaves it warm but not overheated and I always let it cool before the next cut is tackling big jobs.

Possibly the blade is a cheap carbon one and its blunted. Are you running it at the top speed?


Thread: Federation Boiler certificates UK
15/01/2014 17:19:49

Just for the record it's Southern Federation and Northern Association. Location of a club is not a reliable indication of which they affiliate to.


Thread: Lathe Cross Slide Backlash
15/01/2014 16:09:52

Making a feed nut is tricky because acme threads are difficult to cut (due to the large cross section of metal that needs to be removed) particularly in bronze. If you do anything less than a spot-on job you will end up with a worse nut than the original worn one. Also, you may well find there is more wear in the screw than the nut (usually around the middle) - a good bearing bronze is very resistant to wear.

10 thou backlash in the cross slide is rarely a serious problem - it will always be there and be relatively constant. Don't worry too much unless you go CNC, as 99 times out of 100 you will be feeding in only one direction. You should check the fixings for the feednut though as if it is wobbly it will affect accuracy less predictably. Sort this. have a little practice and see if you still need to replace the feednut.

Post a picture of the whole lathe and someone will identify it for you - that will make finding sources of a replacement easier.


Thread: Spirit-fired Tich Locomotive
15/01/2014 16:00:00


Hi Mark.

Coal fired boilers use the blower to get a forced draught to really get the boiler going. I don't know how meths would respond to a blower - do you have one and have you tried using it?


Thread: Hick & Son Crank Overhead Engine
15/01/2014 14:49:50

Hi Peter,

For Norden I had to make similar slots 1/16" wide. That extra 1/64" seems a lot!

The slots will be hidden so they don't need to be perfect, although the end the key bears against needs to be correctly placed.

After I finished my engine someone suggested drilling axially down from the curved surface for the bearing. This can remove a significant proportion of the metal the slot has to cross, and at the centre, the hardest part to reach.

Now chain drill the slot with a 3/64" drill as accurately as you can. It may be worth drilling from each side in turn rather than trying to do so in one go.

Now cross your fingers and using a 1mm end mill as fast as it will go and taking cuts of no more than 0.4mm or less gently remove the metal between the chain drilled holes.

If you are lucky the tip of a flat but pointed (does that make sense?) diamond file will enter the slot and let you tidy it up.

An alternative rout would be to make a chisel from gauge plate or silver steel with a short tip 3/64" thick and 3/32" broad. Bevel it so the cutting edge is at one, narrow end. A second with the cutting edge on a long side could be useful.

You can either use this by hand to chip away between the drill holes or, if made on the end of a silver steel rod, you may be able to use in the mill with a gentle up down planing action.

Final thought, as 1mm end mills snap very easily, an alternative would be to file a d-bit shape on the end of 3/64" silver steel, just for about 3mm. Make one at each end of the rod so you have a spare immediately to hand. This will be slower, but if carefully tempered will probably outlast and end mill (which will probably be far too long in the fluted section, and therefore too fragile).


P.S. I'm sure someone else will suggest spark erosion, and that's probably the best solution of all, but requires making a whole new machine.

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