Here is a list of all the postings Trevorh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Left Hand Trapezoidal Warco Lathe|
Thanks pgk, it should be metric as the lathe is only 7 years old and chinese at that...
I just can't seem to understand what the profile of the tool bit needs to be to cut a square thread and yet traverse along to produce the angle
I was thinking it would be something like a parting off tool but with a side angle
I have found the correct gearing off the screw cutting chart - to cut either a 2mm or 2.5mm so that part is sorted
Looking for some advice on how best to cut a left hand thread Trapezoidal
In a moment of madness I cut a short peice off the thread from the Tail stock spindle because it kept ejecting the M2 taper sleeves too soon, My lathe is the Warco GH1224
by this i mean as I retracted the post, at the 1" mark, it would eject the sleeve, so in my strange reasoning if I reduced the overall length it would let me retract further, so out came the hacksaw....
now having shot myself in the foot - because now I can only extend to 3" and not 4" I want to make a new shaft BUT how do I go about cutting this square form thread....
As best as I can measure, it appears to be a 2.5mm pitch 12mm dia
offers of advice please on what the tool bit should be as well as speeds and feeds
Material was going to be en1 but if you guys know better....
thanks in advance
|Thread: My little engine (continued)|
Hi Garry, You can't abandon us now that you are so close to finishing....
I have been following your thread since you first started it
sorry mate but its too inspirational to leave it at this juncture... you have to see it through here on this thread
|Thread: Help needed with screw cutting charts on lathe|
I Have the equivalent Warco Lathe and had a similar experience to you
have a look at this post thread
I have to keep the half nut engaged all of the time and just use the forward/reverse lever otherwise I get the same results as you.
Edited By Trevorh on 10/07/2015 14:43:40
|Thread: Sparkies advice please|
Hi Graham, you forgot about Voltage drop depending on size and distance of Conductor,
But very well explained and stated, Thomas Please take note of Graham, it will save you a lot of hassel and probably money as well
|Thread: Ball bearings|
Goes back to when we were at the cross roads of changing over in Industry 1970's
it seemed easier to accept that if you compared Imperial to metric to round to the nearest size
Certainly in heavy industry and the printing industry it is just accepted that if you have 3" its the same as 75mm not 76.2 same as 1/2" is 12mm not 12.7 and 1/4" is 5mm not 6.35 and so on
Its just how industry has worked out over the years
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
Patching up the back door on my van - thanks to some night time friends who decided to help themselves to my tools.
Wouldn't haver minded but I was in a hotel carpark under a floodlight outside the reception with a camera looking right at my van
not sure what else I can do
|Thread: Warco Supports|
Hi thanks for the comments
Unfortunately I have had the lathe for just over 7 years
Taking jasons suggestion here is what I have come up with so far
Hi Jason, thanks for that
I will have a look at the parts tonight to see if I can do that
Hi Jason, Thanks for the quick reply, yes the fixed steady does have a lot of filler and I am just figuring out how best to mount it on the milling machine to clean it up, I was also thinking if it would be possible to make an off set to the top Brass part in order to bring it more in line.
The travelling steady fixing points are too close to the main bed to allow for re drilling so I was thinking of slotting the casting holes but again I haven't figured out how to hold the piece or if its even possible
Don't you just love Chinese machines!!!! especially when I make such a basic mistake of not checking the parts
Bought my Warco lathe several years ago and never had need to use any of the supports until now
Have a look at the photo's
the fixed support/steady is out by 5mm
the travelling steady is out by 10mm in the other direction
obviously I should have checked these when I purchased the machine years ago so I know its my fault but if possible I would like to know if a solution can be found that enables me to use them
Edited By Trevorh on 10/11/2014 12:14:19
Edited By Trevorh on 10/11/2014 12:14:44
|Thread: I've bought a 7R [ Myford, not AJS ]|
Are you sure its not a standard parrallel key the shaft doesn't look deep enough for it to be a woodruff key?
as you know woodruff keys are semi circular and are usually twice as deep as they are wide, the length being what ever it needs to be
|Thread: Myford (Coolmex - made in Poland) 3 jaw chuck - are the jaws reversible?|
Hi Merry miller, the 2 chemicals you mention are not easily found as the first one is carsonagenic and is due to be banned and the 2nd one if gets hot turns into phosgene gas - very deadly
please dont be tempted to use either with out lots of Protective equipment
|Thread: Thoughts on "build threads"|
I agree that the threads should not be hijacked by people who feel they have to post "a comment" irrespective of its content but purely for the fact of commenting
for me it adds absolutely nothing to the thread in question and as you say is more likely to put the author off from posting any further
The "my little engine" thread has and is still one of THE most informative threads currently on this website for us beginners who are gradually learning how to build an engine and it should be encouraged at every stage/level not taken over by people who have nothing to actually contribute
That's my small pennies worth
Edited By Trevorh on 29/07/2014 12:43:31
|Thread: Minilathe C3 Chuck Balance|
Further on from XD's post why not perform a static balance test
Mount the Chuck on a round bar say silver steel then place the bar and chuck onto a set of parallels
Place a mark on the circumference of the chuck and rotate it approx 90 degree - does it continue to roll or does it come back on its self
repeat until you have gone 360 degree - this will show you if the chuck body is out of balance, you then add small weights to the body of the chuck until you can rotate the body to any position and its remains there
Obviously it requires you to have access to a flat/level surface and some parrallels - the thinner the better to reduce drag during the rotation
its not as accurate as a dynamic balance test but will point you in the right direction
I have used all of those methods in the past but only when I was in Heavy engineering, in those days stud loctite wasn't around and when you put a stud in it was there for as long as the machine existed, the split end and ball bearing worked the best as it acted the same as a rawl bolt
But either way as Dusty says you will get the best result using a box tube - we use to make up our owns sets of them as apprentices - all Whit from 1/4 - 1", as well as most of you tools you'd be needing
|Thread: Electrical installation|
you could always find your local part "P" qualified sparky to check it out for you
You are quite right martin that under the 17th wiring regulations you are not allowed to install the sockets below the stated min height from the floor and a specified distance from a door and any source of water
It is mainly came about for Disabilty and ease of access
Strange how it doesn't apply to industry where basically any height is ok
Edited By Trevorh on 12/06/2014 11:40:50
|Thread: What did you do today? (2014)|
Clive, it does happen as I am about to fly out to S.Africa tonight for 3 days to give exactly that - Hands on training and instruction on a Flexographic Plate mounting machine, max mis alignment tolerance is 2 micron using a camera system with cross hair marks on a couple of monitors
going to take longer to get there than to do the job, but when I leave they should be able to operate and maintain the equipment
Just starting the Stuart S50 - spent the day cleaning and priming the bed casting
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