Here is a list of all the postings Trevorh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Novice beginner|
This method worked really well but I think I am also going to make a set of square and hexagonal blocks as David described - i think they can be really useful as a means of holding the small parts that will need drilling for split pins and so on
I must admit that when I first fitted the Tee slots to the top slide extension I didn't think I would ever need them
Just goes to show
Cheers - until the next problem
Its a glue Jason B put me onto - it is a glue that bonds Metal and disimilar materials but not as strong as some epox glues or Loctites
I use it to fix any small or delicate parts onto larger metal pieces which then allows me to perform Light machining, you can get it from screw fix and even some of the larger Tesco stores
what I like is that after the machining you can break it away and lightly scrape the adhesive off
Here is what I did
There are a couple of more photo's showing the mod to the top slide and so on
Just reporting Back, Success
I varied the idea's and mounted the part onto an angle block which i fitted to the modified top slide of my Warco 1224 and used a centre bit in the chuck to spot the ring and then went through with a 3/16" and then finished it off with a No 11 drill
I had previously secured the ring to the shaft using Gorilla glue which gives just enough grip to keep it in place
I will post some other photo's once I know how
Many thanks for the idea's
Edited By kerbtrawler on 21/02/2012 09:09:53
forgot to say that Yes I am using a bench pillar drill with Added guidance that I have fitted to keep the mandrel true as there was a lot of movement even tho' it was new ( and cheap) ( and nasty)
Now thats the kind of idea I can manage, I just couldn't get my head around how I could go 1/2 way, turn the job over and hope to hit the same spot.
Thank you very much for all of the suggestions, I will report back in the morning on how succesful it is
Sorry I should have been more clear I am trying to drill a 3/16" hole through a 3/4" round bar that also has a collar on it that measures 1 1/4" od
I have to put a retaining pin through them both, I will see if I can take a photo and post it
The only problem is I don't have a dividing head...
But thanks for the quick reply
I need to drill through the shaft that the Perch bracket sits on its 3/4" dia
each time I try on a sample peice the drill runs out - off centre by the time it comes out the other side
any tips on how to keep the drill true as it drills
Finished fitting the yoke last night, opted for 2 taper pins in opposite diretcions through the yoke and shaft
Thanks for the info
I might try using a couple of pins straight thro' and like you peen the ends over and then dress it back a little
time for the next question, I have now got to the stage of machining the front axal yoke and pinion . Which went quite well.
How do I secure the front axal yoke to the front axal?
The axal is a single machined piece of bright mild and the yoke is a plastow cast iron
Is there a preffered method because there are no suggestions on the plastow drawings
|Thread: Emergency stop switch|
as a machine installer I can confirm that yes you do have to have a stop hard wired in such a way that it is impossible for an auto restart when the e stop is released, also the machine has to come to a complete stand still within 9 seconds, further more that the E stop must be no further than 1 meter from where the machine is operated from.
|Thread: Novice beginner|
I'm actually using 1/8" copper rivets cut down to size, and giving them a slap with a 1 1/2 lb ball pain but that's not important right now.
the heating of the rivets doesn't involve any burn't fingers as i am only heating the top that requires to be formed and it certainly helps to get the desired finish, As Jason suggested it is definately easier modifying the snap to miss the edge of the aluminium cast wheel
Got say that I didn't expect this response on the subject but it just shows that there are many ways to "skin the cat"
Many thanks for all of the input, What I will do is this weekend experiment with a combination of using a drift to start the profile of the rivet and then use the dolly to finish it off after first profiling the dolly as per your phot's jason
I will let you guys know what happens
Ok I tried with the copper rivets and had reasonable results, first heating, then used the dolly, finally finished off with the hammer drill, quite time consuming but definatelty on the right track
Because of the amount of dissimilar metal contact, I'm not that concerned with the electrolytic reaction, if it becomes an issue it can always be cancelled out by placing a small charge through the body, but to be fair its the least of my concerns for now.
By Mistake I made a rivet with a flat head on 1 side and domed on the other - is this acceptable or is it more likley to shear under stress?
I will see if I can improve on the results and shorten the process again tonight
cheers and thanks for your supportive comments
Hi everyone, Sorry I haven't posted for quite a while but my work load has been crazy these last couple of months, So an Update
I have finished the front axal and the hub for the front wheel, the spokes are all ready for final fitting as are the cover and locating pin, BUT I still cannot master this Bl***dy riveting
It really is driving me crazy, so tonight I am modifying a battery hammer drill along with a spare rivet snap to see what results I can achieve, I have also recently obtained an oxy/acet 1/4 size bottle set so my intention is to preheat the rivets and them use the hammer action to see if I can get a somewhere half descent result.
I will of course keep you posted, and thanks to Weldsol i know have a whole load of castings to fall back on
|Thread: Midlands Model Engineering Show at Warwick|
I was there on the Saturday and was able to purchase all the items on the wish list, there seem to be a good turnout as well.
The weather held off so was able to go see the dispaly outside, all in all a good show, hadn't really noticed that some of the stands were smaller than last year.
bring on the next one - but not too quickly - need to save up again
|Thread: Novice beginner|
Well as previously mentioned Good news, I have started to assemble the spokes onto the wheel and hub assembly, What I have done is to clamp the assembly together and drill just the middle hole and secure it with a 3mm screw and nut.
my next issue is what is the best way to secure the other end of the spoke, do I rely on epoxy resin or do I drill/tap/countersink with screws on all of the spokes
Also how many screws are used to secure the cover plates over the spokes?, I have seen that 3 are used to secure the Brass outer cap.
Still pushing to have something to bring to the show.....
Great thanks Jason, Sam,
So basically what your saying is
I cannot trust the scale, drawing information or the measurements (when given), so my question is this
WHAT IS THE POINT OF THE DRAWINGS OTHER THAN TO GIVE AN IDEA OF WHAT THE PARTS LOOK LIKE!!!!
Why isn't there a warning about these drawings, its not as though they are cheap.....
Oh well thats got that off my chest, Back to the drawing board - in more ways than one LOL
I am now resigned to reproduce each part on Autocad to check the various assemblies which I suppose is not a bad thing, helps keep me upto speed with my cad
Have nearly finished replacing the parts that were wrong
Hope to post better news soon on the progression
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