Here is a list of all the postings Stewart Hart has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Flywheel help please|
You can try getting one laser cut there's plenty of jobbing shops with laser cutters around all you need to do is send them a drawing and ask for a quote
This is one I had done.
And the completed fly wheel
|Thread: Simplex Gremlins Strike Again|
Thanks for your input and discussion Gents
I'm coming round to the opinion of David that the wear was caused by uneven axle loading, as I've eliminated crank pin and rod alignment issues.
I have material to make new axle boxes and axles but I'm contemplating bushing out the axles with either a phosphor bronze or oilite bearing as this would save a lot of time, I can use the unworn box with stops to help set up the worn box and use a boring head in the mill to open it out, I'd do the unworn one as well so both are the same.
I use a slightly different approach to making axle boxes to David but both methods ensure that the critical feature of ensuring both boxes are aligned identical with the bore in the centre.
Using the four jaw I bore the boxes and finish off with a reamer.
Then I turn up a mandrel a close fit on the bore, I then centre this mandrel true in the spin indexer
Mount the axle box on the mandrel then mill the groove for the horn box taking the same amount of each side, so when the axle will be exactly in the centre of the horn.
To quarter the wheels I use my home made quartering jig.
The axle journal on that side has worn down 0.4mm the other side has negligible wear.
I roll mine on its side after each run unfortunately its been the same side, the effected bearing always ended up on top so the bearing wasn't that visible and I missed it, I did notice the spring hanger was coming lose and just kept tightening it up, but it never occurred to me that it would cause the bearing to wear.
I've got material to make a new axle and boxes, but I'm thinking about boring out the boxes and inserting an Oilite bearings with a new axle.
Well over 100 hours I don't log my running time so it could be approach 200
Nope:- she was running like a little sewing machine.
I completed my Simplex three years ago and I've had it in steam for well over 100 hours in that time and its run very well.
I decided to give it a good check over and clean the clack,injectors etc ready for the running season when the weather improves.
And I found that one of the rear axle boxes had excessive wear, all the other axle boxes showed no sign of wear.
As the ash pan sits over the top of this axle I thought that ash was getting onto the axle, but I have a brass guard over the axle that on inspection seems to be doing its job.
All the bearings get a good oiling before I run so I don't think its lack of oil and the oil ways were clear.
A friend said that he had seen this before on a 7 1/4" loco and suggested that it may be due to uneven axle loading from the springing, resulting in a lot of the weight being carried by that one axle causing it to run hot and wear. When I stripped it down I did find that one of the spring hangers had come lose which supports this suggestion.
Has any one else come across this or has any other ideas as to its cause.
|Thread: can i silver solder cast iron|
As Neil said but give the parts a good wire brushing to get rid of the ash/crud after it cools, I've used this method and it worked for me.
|Thread: 2-6-0 Horwich Crab|
Just to give you some idea of whats involved in making the valve linkage
This is the Radius Rod
Square up a length of mild steel bar mill the slots and drill holes and corner positions, then chew out the material not wanted.
This gives you some idea where they go on the loco.
|Thread: One Hand Operated Depth Gauge|
Depends where you want to measure:- depth of full diameter or to the point also the point is a radius so I guess a pin with a radius would be the way to go. For full diameter simply drop a rod in of known diameter and length and measure to the top of that, but to be honest most jobs wouldn't require that amount of precision.
Nice Job Jim
|Thread: 2-6-0 Horwich Crab|
I think its about time I post an update of progress so far.
I've been slowly beavering away at the build except for a few small tooling projects just as a change. I've got the slide bars and cross head made and I'm making the valve linkage at the moments I did buy a set of laser cut linkages but I didn't like the way you have to fabricate the forked ends so I'm making them out of solid so that they can be case hardened.
Any way her's a few photos.
The motion plate is made from a laser cut part with the edge fluting milled in the same as for the radius Link Bracket that's shown her clamp roughly in place as a trial fit it won't get fitted till I have the rest of the valve links fitted so that it can be correctly placed.
And I've recently taken delivery taken delivery of the Boiler from Western Steam and I must say they've made a lovely job of it with great service.
Edited By Stewart Hart on 12/02/2018 07:39:22
|Thread: Simple Mill Engine - Stewart Hart ME.4460 - Part CP11|
Pleased you got a runner we all go through a learning curve no mater what we attempt, the important thing is to learn from mistakes and don't give up.
The method I used on the brass banding wasn't one of my better ideas I used two way sticky tape the rivets are just dummy, but the darn stuff starts to peal off and I have to press it back down, for the follow on engine I drilled through the banding into the cylinder and used some small M2 dome headed cap screws to fasten it down, you can get the screws from model fixings http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/
I had terrible trouble the first time I tried to clad a cylinder then someone told the trick of first gluing the batons with copydex to a piece of cotton material then cut to shape and fix the whole lot to the cylinder, the batons are coffee sterers.
You can get the graphite from Macc Models or Blackgates but you could use ptfe thread tape that you get from plumbers merchants just twist it into a string and use a graphite packing works just as well.
Hope this helps
Sorry I missed your post on 30/10/17 I was on holiday at the time and got behind with following the forum.
Your build is looking good, have you got her running ?.
That,s looking good too, best way to shake out the tight spots is to loosen all the screws, then tighten them up one by one any screw that causes it to bind needs investigating and the cause fixing.
Look forward to seeing the completed engines and a video if posible
|Thread: Bath Indicator ? . Any One know how it works|
That's a lot clearer I thought the part that houses the mechanism was solid.
And thanks for the links I'll dip into them later.
I Came across this in an old magazine never seen anything like it I think it works a bit like a wobble bar but not sure, has any one seen anything like it or even got one and knows how it works.
|Thread: Budenberg Dead Weight Pressure Tester|
Thanks for your input and debate Chaps
Some useful information and insight to take account of.
Our Clubs had a Budenberg Dead Weight Pressure Tester donated to it. Its Complete with all the weights and reference pressure gauge, I contacted Budenberg in the UK and they were very helpful they identified the model and year of manufacture (1965) and sent me the operation instruction. I've had it working and tested the reference gauge and its bob on, I've also tested a few other pressure gauges large and small.
I know that the small gauges you get to fit on Locos are not that accurate so I'm aware that you have to be careful just how you interpret the results.
I'm still unsure just how we can get the best out of it so I'd welcome some comments. Photos below
|Thread: Sine Protractor|
Don't mind at all Nobby in fact you gave me an idea, there's a small vice on our clubs sale table, if its still there I'll buy it if its suitable to be used.
That vice does look useful Nobby
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