Here is a list of all the postings Stewart Hart has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Moteur Oscillant Double Effect|
just completed the build of this is a very nice French designed engine that builds up into a powerfull power unit suitable for boats up to 4 ft length the plans are available free from
|Thread: Has anyone experience of building both the engine and paddle steamer?|
I'm nearing the completion of the engine shown by Bogs,
You can follow the build log hear.
|Thread: What are you building?|
3 1/2" Loco build her
this is the boiler build
And a batch build of some twin cylinder double acting woblers.
|Thread: chester model b super|
I've had a model B for over 10 years now, and have managed to produce some good work, but like all machine tools it has its good and bad points.
The worst thing with it is the lack of rigidity in the mill head, you have to try and keep your sets ups as short as possible don't over extend the quill, take small cuts 1/2mm is about the max in steel. About 18 months ago I bought a small mill, and took the mill head off blanking off the hole left and now just use it as a lathe, which I think is great.
Best part about the lathe function is its huge swing though it hasn't got the torque to turn anything really big, but it gives you plenty of room to workaround, Thread cutting up to a shoulder is not easy with a minimum speed of 90 rpm, but I get round this by running the lathe in reverse and with the tool at the back, cut from the shoulder out. The drive belts as supplied are crap I wore them out in just a few months, replaced them with a standard belt from my engineer supplier that I'm still using.
I've done a few mods:- fitted a vertical DRO to the mill which added to its accuracy greatly. Added some grub screws to the tail stop quill that engage with drill tangs so can take heavier cuts. Added thrust bearing to the cross slide lead screw reducing back lash greatly with a smoother action and greater repeatability.
Having said all that the most inportant thing is to try and get the best out of your machine as you can and to enjoy your model engineering
Her's a few pics of what I've made
Edited By Stewart Hart on 02/09/2010 07:30:26
|Thread: Suppliers of Copper Boilers|
Have you tried maccsteam http://www.maccsteam.com/
Why not build your own I'm just completing my first boiler build like you I was going to buy a commercial boiler but found the prices too high for my wallet, the guys at my model club encouraged, and helped me to build my own, all up I reckon it would have cost me about £500 for a boiler that the trade would charge £1500.
|Thread: Fitting a Chuck to a Rotary Table|
This is how I did it for a rear three cap screw clamping chuck system.
|Thread: Help Mabel Boiler ?|
I'm building a 3 1/2" gauge Mabel I've got a air running chasie, and I'm nearing the completion of the boiler but I've run into a problem with the backhead. I've made and soldered the firebox back in place complete with fire hole this is made exactly to drawing with the fire hole centre 1 13/16 from the top of the fire box, but this puts the fire hole 1/4" to high in the back head so I'm assuming that the drawing is wrong.
If I make the fire hole in the backhead fit, the water gauge and clacks will stop the fire hole door from opening, hinging the door from the bottom will get around this, just to check this fit out I made the clacks and water gauge, and came across another problem there is no way these parts will screw into the backhead together without fouling on each other.I'm now thinking of making a new backhead and repositioning the fittings on it. Are there any other Mabel Builders out their who have come up against this problem, and how did you get round it, or can anyone else give advice that will help me solve the problem.
|Thread: Tool post grinder|
I made a tool post grinder I tried using a sewing machine motor but it just didn't have enough humph for the size of wheels I was using ended up using the motor from a wood router.
Here's my build log for you to follow.
Hope this helps
Edited By Stewart Hart on 17/06/2010 21:25:15
|Thread: Tool Post Grinder|
Yes it was a 75 watt sewing machine motor but it was short of humph, so changed it for a motor off a woodworking router, if you read on in the thread you can see what I did.
You were lucky finding that tool post grinder I've been on the look out for one in the UK for ages ended up making my own. You can make your own quills to fit whatever grinding wheels you have. Don't get hung up too much on grade of wheel, in a home shop environment the grade is of minor importance just use what works, stockist usually sell the general purpose do most jobs grades anyway.
This is the link to my build and how to make the quills.
Hope this helps
|Thread: Boiler making hearth|
I knocked one up using an old work mate, and a scrap yard ally tray sheet abd an oven tray, with Thermalite block from B & Q baught 1/2 price as they were damages 50p each.
|Thread: Does any one know who made this engine|
They do have the turbine on show close to where this Return Crank Engine is on display they have quite a nice display of other engine type that were used as primary power in cotton mills. Its a must visit place for anyone who his interested in UK Industrial history.
John I found out a little about this type of engine from another Forum I post to apparently the type was very common in Navel ship because of its compactness and was called a return crank.
This link has some useful information on the type
A full size example of the Naval version is at the US Merchant Marine Academy.
Thanks for your reply, I don't think the engine has any association with the mill, its just part the general industrial exhibits.
Does any one now who made this engine
|Thread: Vertical Finger Engine|
No Boiler either
Pleased you liked the engine
Thanks for sorting video Jason
What am I doing wrong ?.
Hope the video works ok the link is the same as I've used on other forums but the system her can be a bit iffy.
|Thread: Convert cheap digital calliper to height gauge?|
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