Here is a list of all the postings Stewart Hart has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Wot's this for ? help please|
Hi Brian that was my thoughts but it’s a lose fit on the shaft there’s no groove on the shaft or in the bearings for it to fit the bearings which are flanged are fully home
I bought a spindle and drive belt for a project I'm developing as part of the kit there was a small "C" clip that I can't for the life of me work out where it goes see attached picture, its got something to do with the bearing assembly but that's as much as I can work out there is no obvious place for it to go. Can any one shed a bit of light on this mystery
|Thread: Starrett type clamps|
Thanks for your feed back and tips Andrew I never thought about sticking them together I've experimented with two way sticky tape but with mixed results:- loctite 638 is certainly good stuff and will hold the knob in place my welding them in place is a good example of over kill. Any chance that you could post a picture in the thread of your clamps
Thanks for all your interest in these clamps chaps
I actually used imperial bar so 5/8" is indeed 15.88mm I'm sorry this may have confused a few of you. But its your workshop so your free of the chief inspector you can make things to any size you want as long as you exercise a little gumption.
I use the metric system for one simple reason:- its the industrial standard for most of the world this makes metric tooling and parts extremely cheap when compared to imperial stuff a fact that is very important in most home workshops.
I try to make all my designs simple and cost effective for the beginner as Jason said, but I do find it difficult at times getting thing down to the beginners level, especially that these days youngsters are taught very few basic practical skills, consequently things us oldies think are obvious go over peoples head. My own son whose a medical doctor phoned me up the other day for advice on how to shorten a curtain rail using a hack saw. I had to explain to him the different types of saw how to tension the blade and how to keep the cut straight. I can assure you that he didn't have a neglected childhood, like may of his peers he just wasn't interested in engineering thing, but he did ok despite this.
|Thread: 2-6-0 Horwich Crab|
I think I used primer on my first loco it’s stood up to many steaming I do know I was very careful to get everything cleaned and oil free using a gunk type solvent and white spirit
Thanks for your comment old mart
Greensands the smoke box is not painted it’s made from welded seam mild steel I think it must have been hot rolled hence the black surface. For my other loco I used black engine paint from Halfords on smoke box and chimney just two coats. For the tender and rest of the loco the brass gets a coat of acid primer followed by two coats of precision paint followed by two coats of clear lacquer from hobby craft I use a wide soft artist brush again fresh hobby craft I can’t get on with spray cans. I try to do one face at a time keeping it horizontal to reduce the risk of runs it takes a long time doing it this way but it’s the only way I can avoid runs
Hope this helps
Edited By Stewart Hart on 22/05/2020 18:34:04
Time for an update, this lock-down has certainly speeded things up:-
Chimney, Smoke box, door and saddle
Trimming smoke box to length
Smoke box saddle fabrication
Completed smoke box door
its begining to look like the finished loco now
|Thread: Simple Mill Engine - Stewart Hart ME.4460 - Part CP11|
Well Done Jim a great runner I hope you enjoyed the build
|Thread: How are your clubs responding to Coronavirus|
South Cheshire MES has cancelled all Birthday Parties, Public Running and club meetings until further notice.
My Grandmother once wrote to Winston Churchill on Izal toilet paper to complain about the meagre widows pension apologising to the great man for using toilet paper as she couldn't afford proper writing paper.
|Thread: Locked out of computer|
I was looking something up on the banggood site this morning when the screen went blank and briefly flashed locking and everything went dead and I Just can’t switch back on 😭any ideas about what has happened have I caught a virus I have Norton protection
|Thread: High Speed Drilling Attachment by pottyengineering|
I've been puzzling about that also I did this check on alignment
And everything looked good, so I'm wondering if I got the drill slightly of centre in the chuck with those small drill its easy to grip it with just two jaws I was also wondering if centrifugal force was whipping the point out, though that doesn't seem to happen when I had it in the mill. It didn't seem to effect it much though.
Thanks for your interest
Edited By Stewart Hart on 31/01/2020 18:38:48
This is the electric motor I used **LINK**
I've posted on her a couple of times with my injectors builds **LINK**
And this is how I make high speed D bits https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=142933
I'll send you a PM with my email so we can discuss injectors one to one.
Edited By Stewart Hart on 30/01/2020 08:18:10
its just over 40mm. There are two sizes of motor available both with chucks the smaller one has a 3mm spindle I bought one of these first but I wasn’t happy with it the spindle to flimsy so I used the bigger one 5mm spindle which is a lot more ridged.
From time to time I delve into the black art of making injectors, I've been quite successful in making the 24oz size but struggled with the smaller sizes mainly due to the difficulty with drilling the small holes, my lathe just hasn't got the speed. What I need is a high speed drilling attachment, I've been pondering this problem for some time had a couple of ideas that I've rejected:- finally I came up with this:-
What the hells that I can hear you saying well it started life as this.
A 24V high speed motor with chuck that I found on the internet (5mm output shaft) a M3 morse taper threaded 1/2" UNF and a 2 1/4" dia chunk of ally.
Cut a slice of ally off and machine up the end cap,
Now its important that everything lines up with the centre of the lathe. The motor is screwed to the end cap, so the end cap must run true with the motor shaft.
Make a temporary female centre.
Grip one end of the shaft in a chuck that you know runs true and suport the other end with the feamle centre and skim up the register dia and face of the end cap.
Clock the body up true and drill bore and tap to take the M3 morse taper abour.
Don't fix it in permanent yet
Flip it round clock it up again and rough out the bore.
Drill a few holes for cooling and wiring.
Now fix it to the Morse arbour, my lathe is M3 in the head stock so mount the assy in the head stock, and face and finish the bore to give a nice fit to the cap.
Check that everything lines up.
Proof of the pudding.
It took me just over two days to make it it seems to work OK I'll post a video over the weekend of it working
Edited By Stewart Hart on 29/01/2020 15:22:27
|Thread: Tuna Can Blower|
Just to add a bit more interest to the thread, when drilling thin sheet with a normal drill you can run into trouble with a ragged hole or even worse.
I was shown this little trick when I was an apprentice, grind a drill up with a little teat and a slightly undercut flat, this way the teat acts as a pilot and the under cut means that only the edge of the drill cuts, it cuts out a washer out and you end up with a nice clean hole.
I had the same thought Bryan it does look like a pair of Y fronts
Thanks for your interest gents and comments
Lets see some veggie based blowers
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