Here is a list of all the postings Stewart Hart has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Stewart Harts Horizontal Engine build|
Wow Jim that's an impressive collection of engines nice to see it includes the popcorn engine and the over crank engine, the over crank was the first I designed and built and submitted for publishing. You must do the the Grasshopper next to complete the trilogy
Ok you've shown me yours I'll show you mine
Thanks for your comments and interest in my designs
Only just found this thread
Mike/Jim Your engines look great it always gives me a great buzz when I see one completed and running. I'm extremely pleased that you enjoyed building it.
Jim I like how you've added the valve and governor and piped it for steam have you ever run it on steam ?. I know that one of my grasshoppers has been run on steam successfully but I've never heard of the horizontal being run on steam.
Jason is spot on regarding the use of studs and nut sizes, I just used standard M3 nuts with studs as they are easy to get. When using studs the trick is to get them all the same length the easy way to do this is to assemble the parts with two nuts then file down the stud level with the top nuts, remove the top nut and you've got the same length of stud standing proud making things look nice a neat.
As an aside I'm just completing a book for Crowood press on building this trilogy of engines, hopefully it will be out sometime this year: so keep a look out for it.
|Thread: Applying for charitable status:- help|
Thank you for your insight and links Gents very useful
A friend asked me if I knew anything about applying for charity status for a club or society and If I knew what the requirements that they need to satisfy for a successful application. I went on the ugov web site to read up on the subject but I must admit that after 10 minutes my brains were starting to seep out of my ears. So is there anyone out there who has any experiences of going through the process who could a simple explanation what the basic requirement are for a successful application.
|Thread: Lads and Dads Mill Engine|
I've sent you a PM so check your inbox.
Just out of interest I'm hoping to have a book published next year by Corwwod press:- Making Victorian Stationary Engines for Beginers that will cover the manufacture of all three engine in this series.
|Thread: Injectors of Peter Cauley|
Just been in contact with Peter and he points out that the overflows shouldn't be threaded with a pipe connection, it needs it to be a free flow a short pipe.
If you had to push hard on the D bits it indicates they are blunt sharpen them up by rubbing the flat along a smooth hand stone they should be sectioned just a couple of thou over the centre line.
Just been in contact with Peter he confirms the sizes he uses for the smaller injectors for 5" G are as follows:-
I see we have some corrections in the computer articles Don’t know how they have cropped up the sizes should be for working pressure 80 to 100lbs sq ins
Steam cone inlet angle 13 degree
Outlet angle 9 degree
Throat no 56 drill 0.046" dia
Combination cone 9 Degree
Throat no 63 drill 0.037" dia
Del cone 13 Degree ( not 12 has pointed out in forum )
Throat no 68 drill 0.031" dia
Steam cone insertion 0.037" annular gap 0.0075"
Can you sort them out please:- they are the sizes I use for my small injectors
Hope this hasn't caused to much confusion
Thanks for your heads up Bob,
It's not easy to spot your own mistakes it needs someone with the diligence to read closely, I'll revise things accordingly.
Bean in touch with Peter and he's extremely pleased that we have people prepared to give his design a go, and would like to know how you get on so please bring us up to date on your injector builds.
Hi Bob I'm a good friend of Peters and he's seen this post and he's asked me to reply I've successfully made Peters Injectors so I'm a little confused what what drawing your using if you check your personal messages I've sent you a contact email address so that I can send you a copy of Peters drawings
Regarding Dags book you will find the bodies of Peters Injectors far simpler and easier to make and regarding the cone sizes and proportions Peters are very similar to Dags, but with all due respect to Dag some of his methods are overcomplicated Peters method of sizing the cones is simpler.
|Thread: Reilang oil cans, fit for purpose?|
Her's a picture of my eagle type oil can, I've got a Reilang can and can say the eagle is just as good but in making it I did find one important thing out if you have a perfect seal the can won't work you need to let air into the top of the can to fill the space of the displaced oil as all you are doing is creating a vaccum, I also never fill it above the plunger as this is another area it can leek from, I regularly take the eagle to the track I just keep it standing up, that's why cans of this type have a nice flat base.
Take care I'll call soon
|Thread: Injector LBSC type|
I use a 5.5 reamer near as damit the correct size. As Julian said the critical feature is the annular gap and there is a way to get this correct, if your serious about having a go send me a PM and I'll send you the info and a drawing of a far simpler injector body than that used by Dag Brown, Dags cone proportions are spot on. Hers' a video of the vertical I made
Don't waist your time and hair trying to build LBSC injector only with a good wind and a bucket full of luck will you get one to work. If you spend time reading LBSC build series you will see that his injectors keep changing especially the cone proportions subsequent work by others came up with far better proportions. Also his instructions on how to make them have got a lot to be desired he just says make them exactly to drawing there are some critical features that need a more detailed description on how to achieve them.
Just splash out and buy a couple from the trade.
I've made my own injectors and believe me they are not easy to make you really need some one to coach you how to do it
|Thread: Clarke Tig Welding Gas Bottle/Regulator|
Thanks for all your help and advice chaps.
Dave:- I checked it with compressed air but read on.
The bottles are full checked them by compressing the valve with a nail.
Just screwed on the regulator without the pipe connection and it worked screwed the pipe connector on and it didn't repeated the checked and it worked/failed each time. The pipe connector is one of those where you push the plastic pipe in and it self locks checked connector with compressed air and it was ok. The only thing I can think that is happening is that the hole in the connector is too small (Less than 1mm) so the back pressure is stopping the regulator doing its job.
From all the comments these regulator are a source of trouble so I've just ordered another type of regulator.
Thanks for all you help
I've been pulling my hair out trying to tig weld some stainless steel with my new tig welder I've used the welder successfully stick weld and this is the first time I've tried using Tig. I've coupled up with a flow meter and checked there is no leeks in the connector. I've screwed the regulator into the bottle opened the valve and the flow meter and there is no gas flowing the instruction on the bottle says " If the gas does not flow when the regulator is opened unscrew the regulator and screw down again until the gas flows. I've trued this countless times I've even bought a new bottle and this is the same.
I've checked the regulator and the flow meter and they are working correctly so the fault must be from the bottle.
What am I doing wrong or is there a fault with the bottle has any one else experienced this problem
|Thread: Stewart Hart's Vertical Mill Engine|
I'm sneakily watching as Jim said just send me a PM with your email address
|Thread: Helping dad vertical engine|
Well done Dullnote
Runs nice and smooth and it will get better with use just requires a nice paint job. I hope you enjoyed the build.
|Thread: Vertical Injectors from America|
Thanks for the post I'll see if I can dig out that ME magazine I've not done any work on the injectors for quite a few months this might rekindle my interest.
|Thread: Draft Site change of status and program down load not working|
I've been using draft site free 2D CAD for quite a number of years for those of you who follow my articles in ME and ME Workshop will be familiar with my drawings which were all done using draft site.
Draft Site caught up with me when my free licence expired No Problem I thought I'll just have to part with some cash for the basic licence at £100/year including fat its not as expensive as other drawing packages and I'm familiar with it.
Not wanting to part with my cash too soon I decided to try the 30day free trial down loaded the program fine, loaded one of my drawings up to try it out and non of the drawing features would work I didn't even have a cross hair cursor
After messing about for I bit I registered for the online chat room this didn't work either it wouldn't recognise my user name or password I tried resetting my password but I've had nothing back from them.
I deleted the programme and tried reloading it but this time I've got nothing.
I've contacted the help desk but so far nothing.
I'm afraid I'm quickly loosing confidence in the system
As any one else had similar problems
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.