Here is a list of all the postings Chris Gunn has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: A workholding question.|
I may be missing something, but why not reverse the job in the chuck, hold the large diameter in the chuck, and support the little end with the centre, and machine the slots from the centre end to the recess in the middle or vice versa.
If I were making 4 hubs I might well start with a length of bar long enough for 4 parts plus parting off, machine the profiles of the bobbins then hold the whole length between chuck and centres, then machine the slots in the small diameters along the bar, so all will be the same, and then part off the hubs and face the ends.
|Thread: Hello from East Northamptonshire|
Michael, welcome to the forum, I am in central Northamptonshire, and also secretary of the Rushden model steam enthusiasts group. We are 95% a road steam group. We do not have a clubroom as such, but do get together at rallies and during the winter months, subject to any Covid rules of course. We also can offer boiler testing when the time comes. PM me if you want any additional information.
|Thread: Battery Electric Locomotive|
John, if you fancy a steam outline loco, here is a 5" G Boxhill I made many years ago. It uses all standard Boxhill parts, but the boiler shell and tanks are dummy, and under this there is a 12v motor and chain drive to one of the axles. The battery is carried in the driving trolley.
|Thread: Hermes. A Company in Total Confusion!|
I have to say my experience with Hermes recently is spot on, I have been decluttering via Ebay, and almost all of my sales have been shipped via Hermes, without any problems. I do book and pay for my shipment on line direct with Hermes, and the stuff is always picked up on time. I suspect that when the transaction passes from company to company, then problems can arise, and may not be of Hermes making.
|Thread: Hornby on TV|
I watched too, and was a little disappointed, all a bit superficial, and of course no chance of seeing shots of the factory churning out their product range, I presume flights to China were not in the budget.
|Thread: Recommend a grade of steel|
Rob, the same as Harry above, did you have a hydraulic lock to cause it to break?
|Thread: Colchester Chipmaster 5x20. Hoping to buy.|
Dan, you could consider a Bantam as well.
|Thread: A Couple of Questions about Pipe?|
JA, just seen your reference to working at Corby, did you work in the DR&TD? if so which department? did you know anyone in the Control Systems section?
Chris Gunn, DR&TD, 1969-73.
|Thread: Apple recipes|
pgk pgk, thanks for the inspiration, ingredients plus clotted cream on order for tomorrow, report on taste test to follow.
|Thread: Fixture plate ideas|
You could use thinner aluminium jig plate with a series of tapped holes in it for studs, much lighter and simpler to make, and for hobby use adequate for most things, and no need to machine tee slots.
|Thread: Traction engine build|
Julian, one thing to take into consideration is what you will do with it when you have built it. If you intend to rally it, and take it on the road, then I would suggest a 4" scale of a large original is the minimum to consider. Such an engine will fit into a medium size van for ease of transport. I would look at the 4" Garrett, this was the first TE I built, and I found the drawings the best I have come across. I would confirm you need a steel boiler for an engine of this size. I built mine using a Colchester Bantam, and an Elliot Omnimill. I did have access to bigger machinery for the few larger parts.
I would also be looking to see if there is a ME society in the area with plenty of members interested in road steam, and I would join. Then you can draw on their experience, and if you are lucky they will have a workshop you can use with bigger machinery than you have. I would guarantee that a few of the members will also have larger lathes, and in my experience will be glad to help.
Incidentally I am currently giving my 4" Garrett a make over, and after 21 years of 10 -15 rallies a year the cylinder bore is nicely run in, the worst wear is in the valve links, which will need rebushing and the pivot pins replacing.
|Thread: Use Chequer (Tread) Plate as Roofing Sheet?|
Clive, just built a new shed from the remains of a playhouse, and fed up with roofing felt failing quickly, I tried Cladco roofing, after seeing it on my daughters gazebo. It is not expensive, and you can buy all the accessories for it. No ply needed underneath, just joists. For a workshop you will need to insulate, but the roofing itself seems good so far. Google Cladco for more info.
|Thread: Tracy Tools.|
Andrew, surely Tract Tools and Royal mail got you into the hole!
|Thread: Filing machine uses?|
I had one which was rescued by my father from the scrap heap at work. We converted it to take a short piece of bandsaw blade, and it was quite handy for cutting plate. I never did use it to file anything.
|Thread: Watchmaker's lathe belting advice|
Massimo, you can get special spray on sticky BELT DRESSING, plenty on offer, and they say suitable for any belts, so maybe worth a try?
|Thread: What are these morse taper collets for?|
Ian, they are for holding parallel shank drills in the sleeve, so you need a dedicated sleeve for each drill size. the drill is inserted just a short way into the slot, and a drift can then be used to eject the drill. I would have thought more handy for production work, one can use a cheaper parallel drill in the sleeve, when the drill is done throw just the old drill away, and you still have the sleeve for another new drill. I would think in most modelers workshops these would not be of much benefit.
SOD, I use taper shank drills quite frequently, especially in the bigger sizes above 1/2" as no chance of the bigger drills spinning in use as they can in a keyless or Jacobs style. I am not a fan of turning the shank of bigger drills to hold the in a drill chuck. If I am making a quantity of anything that requires a series of drilled holes I will use taper shank drills from 1/4" up, I have accumulated a set of metric and imperial taper shank drills over the years. Used ones are often cheap to buy as only folk like us have the machinery to employ them.
|Thread: Ward Capstan Lathes|
Alan I am not sure what threading you need to do but the Ward Capstans used Coventry die heads, there are plenty about, and reconditioned ones too. However using a die head does limit the type of part you can thread, but in the factory I worked in any screw cutting would be done on centre lathes, so the need for screwcutting did not arise in the case of the capstans. We would use a die head for quantities of any oddball screw or pin that needed a thread on the end. Bear in mind there is not a lot of bed length to play with on a Capstan, but that may not be an issue for you.
I am another ex Ward 3A Capstan operator, and I remember there was a facility to add a chuck to them, I made thousands of gear blanks using chucks. I believe the lever operated collet chuck assembly could be removed to fit a chuck. Not something one would do daily, but fitting chucks is possible. The chucks we used were paradoxically Alfred Herbert chucks with soft jaws held on serratted carriers within the chuck body. In my section we had a number of machines with collet chucks and bar feed, and a few with chucks. We stayed with our allocated machine, and I remember using both chucks and collets on it. I wish I had the room for one now, I thought they were fantastic machines to run and make stuff fast. One thing sticks in my mind and that is the huge dial on the crosslide and the small coloured spring clips one could attach to the dial to indicate where to stop for different diameters on the job in hand.
|Thread: Screwcutting on the Bantam|
Tony, using off standard sizes of fasteners and so on, is not so daft after all. It makes your customers come back to you for spares. A company I used to work for used 11/64 pins, 1 1/16" pitch chain and chain wheels, I could go on, but anything prone to wear or breakage was non standard. For one high wearing part they bought special 10.8mm silver steel, impossible for the customer to buy this in small quantities to make their own parts.
|Thread: BSW Fasteners|
Peter, I have standard cap screws in 1/4" Whit, and some hex socket button head if they are any good, but no countersunk apart from slotted like you have already been offerred.
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