Member postings for Chris Gunn

John, I use Pentel Micro correct markers, not designed for our uses in the workshop, but you get a fine white line, which dries fast, I use it for marking out steel for cutting, any any other marking of bins and parts and so on, much easier to see being white. Not a fine enough line for marking out hole positions, but I get the impression you just want a guide to cut to. the mark can be cleaned off with thinners. They seem to last for ages, a very quick google shows a pack of four for available for under £8

Chris Gunn

As Dave said the internals of the motor are mucky, this is because the motor is not totally enclosed and has vents in the end plates which suck in the muck and swarf. I would swap it out for a new TEFC motor, 1ph if you want to retain the existing reversing switch, of a 3ph one if you go down the VFD route.

Chris Gunn

Colin, Look for Brook Crompton Motors and have a look at their catalogue, which lists all current specs, or ABB will probably show the dims in their catalogue, you motor plate should show the frame size you have, I cannot make it out from the picture.

Chris Gunn

Rather than by WD40 in aerosol cans, you could buy "maintenance spray" from Morris Lubricants in 5L containers and decant it into a trigger spray bottle. The initial outlay is higher, but the price per cc or whatever is much lower.

No connection with the company apart from being a satisfied customer.

Chris Gunn

Any relation to Mike Stand?

CG

Paul, the Bearing Boys sell them as well, 6mm bore about £8 each. I used them on my 4" and 6" Garrett lubricators I made, they work OK, but over time the thick steam oil gets in between sprags, and fills up the gap so they do not engage. A bit of a squirt with maintenance spray and a jiggle about gets them going again. I used them on a silver steel shaft, unhardened, and after 6 years no signs of wear.

Chris Gunn

Stuart undertype, my favourite stationary engine, but not the best picture.

Chris Gunn

When I machine flywheels i will leave a mm at most to finish the second side, and taking a skim and a small chamfer will tidy that up. If I were finishing a 3.5" diameter flywheel, I would use the soft jaws to hold the machined end to face off the casting and hub. Very quick to do and pretty well guaranteed concentric.

Chris Gunn

Bill what do you usually drink?

Gavlar, Just asked them to give me an updated price, they will not refund me if they are wrong, as I am not fitting them to a Boxford. As far as I am aware, the D1-3 parts are made to an industry standard, so should fit all D1-3 machines.

Chris Gunn

Gavlar, thanks for that, I need to buy some new camlocks for my Bantam, and Boxford list them at sensible money, but did not know if they were D1-3 or D1-4.

I can go ahead, maybe useful for anyone with D1-3 Camlocks with worn sockets.

Chris Gunn

Can anyone with a Boxford X10 lathe tell me if the chuck mounting is D1-3 mounting please. I have had a good look in all the usual places, including Boxford's own site to no avail.

Chris Gunn

Could it be a trepanning tool?

What Jason says, but bear in mind you should drill clearance holes in the castings to bolt down the bearing blocks, and this will give a little wriggle room to align the bearings.

Chris Gunn

I made wicks from copper wire from an old transformer or charger, and worsted wool for my 4CD, and they work a treat. There is a tube up into the body of the oilers. I found out that worsted wool is combed out more than ordinary wool, so the fibres are all aligned, and presumably syphon better. Lambs wool would naturally be the same, with the fibres in line. I made a loop of copper wire, pulled it into a double strand, then wound the wire round a pencil making a copper coil or spring, and fed the wool down the middle and then tightened the coil around the wool. The wick can be tailored to fit the tube bore.

Chris Gunn

Nick, see if you can find a good Bantam, aside from the gearbox loads of additional good features. I saw a nice one advertised recently but cannot remember where.

Chris Gunn

Gently drill through the existing hole into the bush when it is in position and remove any burrs.

Chris Gunn

Chris, when you have got the machine table running as true as you are happy with, consider drilling a hole in a suitable spot if there is one, through the joint between table and its support. and drill a hole into both halves and ream it for a taper pin, and put a taper pin in. Drill a hole in the big end of the pin and insert a split ring or a roll pin so you can pull the pin out when you want to swivel the table.

In the future after you have moved the table and you want the table square again, just tap in the taper pin in the hole. Many industrial machines have taper pins fitted to hold vertical heads square as well.

Chris Gunn

Howard plus one for Adrian Nutting, or Apple Gears in Wellingborough, Northants.

Chris Gunn