Here is a list of all the postings DMR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Source of Mid Green Hammerite Paint|
I raised the issue of Hammerite paint last year under the "Hammerite has changed" title. I received a couple of proper replies which explained it all, but they are not coming out here and there are some things to add. My problem was with painting front gates with the new formula and I have held off thanking the best answers until my job had weathered somewhat, The gates are OK after their first winter but the finish remains a very wishy-washy black.
The first question that should have been asked here is "Did the old tin (assuming you still have it) have the name AzkoNobel on it. If it does, then it is the modern stuff. Since you seem to have had the old tin for some time and it had lasted through several jobs, then I would say it is the old formula since the modern substance skins heavily. I make the following points which are not being made very clear:
A) If it says AzkoNobel on the tin, then it is the fairly useless modern stuff and no-one now produces the paint to the original formula.
B) If it says AzkoNobel on the tin, make no attempt to mix it with Hammerite that does not say AzkoNobel on the tin, and the thinners are not to be mixed up either as they are quite different.
C) If it says AzkoNobel on the tin, and you are painting something small or taking time over it then the stuff will start to skin around the edges of the tin, particularly in warm weather.
D) If it says AzkoNobel on the tin, then the paint will quickly skin heavily in a part used state and will go off entirely over time, even if unopened! The original paint kept for ever, forming no skin and could be thinned if it got a bit thick.
E) If the original tin did not say AzkoNobel on it and there is or ever was an AzkoNobel paint of the same name, then it will most likely not be anything like the same colour or finish.
F) I would guess the thinner for the modern mix is a bit useless, but have no knowledge. For reasons of skinning I would also guess that it does not mix to a different colour well and certainly would not keep at all.
So now you know what to look for and ask about
|Thread: Myford Thread Indicator size|
You are not wrong Colin. Perhaps if it looks Myford, it might be off an ML10? If you put up it's top to bottom measurement someone with an ML10, or indeed any other lathe, may come up with an answer. Just for clarity, the three versions I have measure about 65.3mm to 66.2mm from the top of the oiler ball (uncompressed) to the base of pinion.
|Thread: Adjusting Myford spindle bearings|
If anyone can make better sense of your post than I can, I will have to wait and see what they say!
1. Spindles don't stall. Motors do. If you have variable speed, then do you mean the overload cuts in? Or are you literally talking stalled motor or belt slip?
2. You're not a beginner, so have you done the obvious and tested the ability of the spindle to turn by hand? If it is tight , then you have made the adjustment just that bit too good. Slacken your setting off just a tad.
3. Don't understand the "quarter inch" measurement.
Sorry, but I don't understand fully. It seems like you simply have a tight spindle or a new motor fault.
|Thread: Myford ML7 Repairs and Renovation|
The Myford bed has a front and back plain flat shear. There are four resulting vertical edges at front and back of each shear. The early Myford beds had control of the cross slide adjusted across front and back of the front shear only. I think about 1974 when the power cross feed models came in, there were differences made amongst which was control becoming between the front of the front shear and the back of the rear shear. Hence the term "wide bed". On your early machine you have narrow bed control. Although the shear's design did not change dimensionally in 1974, there is a reason that you cannot just go for any bed replacement. It was something to do with the leadscrew position front to back.
Put differently, the saddle on your machine will fit on a later bed but the leadscrew claspnut - via the early apron - will not line up with the leadscrew. Send me a PM and I will supply more info.
|Thread: Wood Glue for Teak|
I also say Cascamite, especially since it is totally waterproof when set and will fill gaps if you let it go off a bit before applying. Any oil would weaken any new gluing efforts. Joints must be clean of any form of dirt and clamped up. This sounds a big clamping job so do parts at a time and use a good cord as a clamp wrapped round and round tightly and tied off. wipe off any oozings with a damp cloth or let it set and use a chisel. Once you have done it all, then oil it well, but you cannot sit on it straight away!
Years ago I had an open handled tenon saw that found its way onto the floor and broke off the bit you hold. It was glued with Cascamite and is still going strong.
|Thread: Mk1 super 7 problems|
At the risk of teaching my grandmother about eggs, etc...................And as you are supposedly a beginner at this hobby...................
You need to have made your new Control Screw (its proper Myford name) in the lathe all in one go so that it is absolutely concentric. Taper, rod, thread and then knob/knurl without taking the raw material out of the chuck. If you cannot machine screwcut the thread with what you have, then you must at least use a die holder, probably with assistance from the tailstock to hold it true to the work. Otherwise your taper will never be true to the brass insert, no matter how much you polish or fiddle with it.
I am confused with your comment about the amount of screw you can see (1-2 turns above the brass part). With the top dust cover in place on my machine I have ~3.4mm between the top of the dust cover front (its a casting so is variable) and the underside of the knob on the screw. You shouldn't be able to see the brass part as the top cover hides it, even if you have not got the spring. The spring itself fits loosly inside the top cover, bearing between the top of the brass insert and the underside of the knob. It is quite a weak spring, just acting as anti vibration. If you do as I do, just letting a few drops in now and then, when I use the machine, then the tap stays shut, so you don't really need the spring anyway.
How have you turned the new part if "the clutch does not engage". It was quite normal on this clutch to lock the clutch engaged, as some found it difficult to set up and keep set up (I never had troubles there), and wound the adjusting screw in to lock it "engaged". I would have thought you had parts missing (like the screw) if you could not engage, so your machine is permanently without drive. Search this site for the early clutch problems. Note that if you take the clutch apart, the shaft must be removed towards the tailstock as pre the instructions that you say you have.
Anyway you have one of the first 9500 or so S7's there, and the drip feed oiler mandrel principle was far superior to the later ones, provided no muck got past that Control Screw!
I have sent you a PM.
|Thread: Myford numbers|
Kai, You didn't say where you were! I have sent you a personal mail. Open it via the My Friends box at top right
You should be OK but.................
K6642 would be a very early ML7 bed no later than 1953-4 which, if you cannot inspect it, may well be worse than your existing setup. The S7 shared the same bed as the ML7 from its introduction, but there were variations later on. Why not play safe and get a bed regrind of your existing machine and hence know that you have a machine you can trust?
Would you like to put us more in the picture? Can you inspect the other bed or are you buying blind? Is your present bed truly defunct as in bent or badly bashed about? What is the state of the rest of the machine?
|Thread: Myford 280 paint type and colour|
You have not had much of a responce and I cannot help you with your request specifically, but I would emphasise that the 280s would have all gone to industrial users and Myford would paint a lathe in any requested colour. I have a Myford brochure dated 1985 for the S7s where that point is made and all the machines and stands pictured are in yellow or a sky blue.
Maybe the owners wanted to match their Startrites or other machines they already had. I cannot imagine Myford using a standard colour along the ML10 hammered green lines on a big machine, but someone may now prove me wrong. I have seen a white 254!
Edited By DMR on 09/12/2014 23:22:11
|Thread: Myford ML7 mandrel speeds|
Just for the record and since I have never seen it said:
That fine man Malcolm Townsend once told me about ten years ago (at proper Myford of course) that ML7 mandrels had started to come in for repair as people had fitted variable speed systems and changed pulleys to get more speed and were wrecking the mandrels/bearings. I was always an S7 person, so I suppose he told me without come-back that "800rpm was about the limit for the ML7, and don't get the bearings hot".
Just so it assists anyone tempted with a supercharge on the model.
|Thread: LH countershaft bearing getting v.hot on S7|
First off, If you have received an oilite bush from new Myford that was not a push fit on the outside, then I would say ask new Myford for one that does, FOC.
From reading the above:
1. How long does the oil in the feed cup last before you have to replenish it? Does the new bush appear to leak oil? A new bush on a sound shaft should not spray oil around, and last all day. It should not leak out when the machine is not in use.
2. When you get this heat, can you stop the machine, release the belts and turn the countershaft by hand, or is it then stiff?
3. Is the primary belt pulley wheel on the countershaft warm as well? Do you only get this effect when the mandrel is turning or is it there when the clutch is disengaged? This questions group leads to the pulley bearing nearest to the bush being the real source of your troubles.
|Thread: Myford Super 7|
Only just discovered your posting. Taking your wording, and bearing in mind you say you now have the manual.
None of the "grease nipples" on a Myford are for the application of grease. Nothing thicker than thin car engine oil. The amount of attention needed depends on use. If you only use backgear once a month, then apply a squirt of oil to the nipple in the spindle pulley once a month (before use). Same logic for all of the machine.
|Thread: Hammerite has changed|
All very well and I could guess the Elfin Safety had a hand in it, but.........
1) There is nothing on the tin to say "new formula" or any indication that it has changed materially from what was. But old Hammerite claimed up to a 5 year life outside and this modern stuff claims up to 8 years. Baz has clearly got the same result I have with smooth black and I need the same answer he asks for.
2) Car boot sales often produce a tin of old style thinners, part used, but I currently have 3 full litre tins of it horded. Sounds like I shall not be able to mix any AzkoNobel tin with any older stuff to get a different colour, as I often have in the past.
3) I fished my empty old tin out of the bin and despite many dables into it over years there is no sign of skin on the sides. The gates were last painted white (years ago) and I still have some of that white. If I shake the tin, it is loose liquid inside - no skin. If you did as it used to say on the tin, which was to replace the lid and turn upside down to effect a paint seal on the lid, there was no need to store it upside down.
4) old tins of various ages and the latest stufff advise light stirring only. This paint type doesn't settle as such. The advised useable temperature range has never changed.
4) Sorry about the cellulose word - it just came out There are others besides straight triclorethylene. There used to be Trimethylbenzene (I think) but it smelled awful and I can't imagine anybody gettting high on that.
Seriously folks. Is there something akin to old Hammerite that works better outside? What's happened to Trimite paint, although I suppose that is in the same boat?
I am on the task of repainting my front wrought iron gates with a brush which I know is not very on-topic but....
I use Hammerite paint fairly often, as I am sure many engineers do and have a stock, so I don't often have to go shopping and I always use a brush to apply it, for which I need no comments about the advantages of spraying it on. Note that all mention of spraying it on using thinners has gone off the label. Indeed it specifically says "do not thin"!
To cut to the point, it's different and I cannot find any comments about it on the web which suprises me. I finished off my stock first, which may well be quite old but it went on OK. The new tin seemed like the old at first except that it was thinner which I put down to it being fresh. Now I was applying this slowly onto scrolly shapes (don't ask) and noticed that the new paint in the can was starting to skin away from the centre where I was tending to pick paint up from on the brush. Also the new black was not nearly as black as came out of the old tin - a greyish black. Anyway I finished the first gate and it looks OK but I am left wondering if it will last before I toil over the other one.
Can anyone in the know clue me up. The company owning the name is now AkzoNobel and the labelling on the tin has changed. If left a week there is a very heavy skin in the tin - something I have never encountered before with any cellulose. The second coat advice has changed from within 8 hours to recoatable in 4 hours with no limit for a second coat. Without putting lesser differences down, does anyone have any meaningful input as to if it is as good as old Hammerite?
|Thread: early super 7 problem|
You have replied via a PM, but I cannot send the manual pages via that path, and you did not include your g-mail address. I have PM'd you again with more info including my e-mail again. No one else has any trouble, but what does your g-mail say - I am intrigued as much as anything else. Unless you find a descent second hand "motorising assy", I think you will find later clutch parts from new myford costing rather more than your lathe cost! Even if they can supply them all. It would only be worth considering if the rest of your machine is in top condition- otherwise it's the old adage of good money after bad. Have another go at e-mail and we can have a chat.
Edited By DMR on 23/06/2014 20:21:51
Manual says "Cap Head Screw 4BA x 1/2" long". Note that all the grub screws on the shaft are either 1/4"BSF x 5/16" OR 1/4"BSF x 3/8".
If you respond to my PM (Personnal Message) of the 17th. I will e-mail you the relevant manual pages. Can probably do the screws as well if you are stuck, though I can't e-mail those!
Edited By DMR on 23/06/2014 00:13:18
Have you solved your original slipping clutch query? If you don't have wear, then it has be the adjustment screw/s moving. The only other thing is a sea of oil from the existing bearings creating a sort of aquaplane effect, though I doubt that could happen once the clutch has gripped the pulley.
The roller bearings and their rumble/s were a recognised problem and proper Myford offered a mod to replace all 4 with Oilite bushes CT 18 x 3/4" for a few years. This had a secondary effect of reducing the amount of excess oil sprayed about. Have you got the early manual pages which cover the countershaft spindle only being removed towards the tailstock end? Before you attempt bearing replacement.
This has been covered before. Search for "clutch" and go through the list which is only one-and-a-bit pages long.
Initial answer is that there should be a locking grub screw behind the adjusting screw in the pulley. 1/4" BSF I think. I have sent you a PM if you are still slipping.
|Thread: thread indicator|
If Paul Tummers still wants a Myford TDI he can PM me for far less than flee-bay, and it's perfect
|Thread: Original maching marks on Myford lathe bed|
I have a S7 that had a bed regrind during a VAT free offer about 2 years (guess) before they went under. I also attended every annual first open day they ever did. The beds and all other slideways were ground and never scraped. Circumstance means that the relevant machine has not been used since and I would describe the visual finish as something like fine ground glass. Certainly not as Bazyle's link which is a scraped finish. My older machine which had a bed regrind about 10 years ago at (proper) Myford has never needed any guides' adjustment, but the bed now has a smooth fine lined appearance at the business end.
Ex Myford Daryle now offers a service involving scraping, of which I have no knowledge, but I believe it is more of an in-line scraping principle, not producing swirly marks. I have a Chinese mill with swirly marks on all slideways!
Trust this helps Adam.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.