Here is a list of all the postings DMR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford Mk1 Super 7 restoration|
I hav'nt found a number on the gearbox yet to date it, I understand the 'Early' early boxes had unhardened gears, but I think they pre-date this year.
It's under the cover at the tailstock end, QC followed by 4 numbers less than 2496. If you know the lathe's history and it was not in private hands, then quite likely the gearbox was retro-fitted with hardened cogs at cost by Myford as there was a recognised flaw. Private buyers were not told I believe. The guts of the gearbox are identical to the later version but external drive was totally different. If you want to cut anything that is not an imperial thread, then you need to consult those who know.
Before further cost outlay as in 3 phase drive, etc, get the thing running and try it out. You may decide a different path. Use the existing electrics for the same reason, as you have proved they work, but check any wiring for faults, frays, nicks, etc. Take no notice of the Elfin Safety lot or you won't get anywhere.
I sent you a PM yesterday. A vital piece of information previously related to on this site is the removal of the countershaft that the clutch is on. The shaft MUST be removed towards the tailstock as there is a tiny step that is damaged if you try and remove it the other way. I have the relevant pages of the Mk1 manual that cover the clutch. I can send if you PM me with an e-mail address. Another bit of info is that because the serial number is still on the back, your bed has never been reground and the wear is on the front shear front and back only.
|Thread: Brook motor off Myford Lathe problem|
A cautionary note on that capacitor, bearing in mind that you think it was previously reconditioned. It may exist like it does because someone found that the case of it was conducting. make sure it stays isolated from earth if that is the case.
|Thread: Any ideas please|
Firestone roofing rubber is thin, tough, proof against most things and flat, and an excellent replacement, but you can only buy a minimum of 1 metre lengths of something up to 6 metres wide. I got mine by asking for the offcuts from my own roof, which were gladly handed over. I think I have seen similar stuff as part of pond installations which may be easier to obtain bits of. I have needed to do two machines now and had no troubles since. How much do you need?
Always tether mouse traps with a length of wire or string and a tent peg. Stops them disappearing when you get a rat or grey squirrel instead. I used peanut butter as well.
|Thread: How do I change the "default" lever angle on my Verdict DTI?|
A footnote into this discussion. The level has a very fine thread into the hub and can easily be broken off if the hub is tight to shift. The hub bearing is not robust either. I always alter my angle of approach by holding the base of the lever and twisting in a circular action to ease the forces on the finer bits. I keep a finger nail on the go for such purposes, Hope that makes sense.
|Thread: Dorris article|
Not familiar with Doris but the article is in the Q&A section and covers the apparent lack of lagging/cleading for the boiler. There is apparently limited space and the question covers the use of a Martin Evans "Euston" boiler design instead with some associated redesign work. Martin Evans answers with various boiler possibilities.
I have PM'd you if you still want a copy of the page.
|Thread: Faulty LED|
More info would help and I fail to see why a circuit board is involved unless you just mean the tracks in the light cluster. You appear to have purchased replacement LED lights for a car, or at least a vehicle that is not a motorbike as you seem to need more than one of each. A tail light is no different to a brake light so far as putting 12V across it. The brake light takes more amps/power and is brighter.
Does the suspect LED work in the other tail light socket? Is the other tail light illuminating in both sockets. With limited info it is only possible to say the following. A conventional filament bulb takes a lot more power than your LED. If the other LED works in both tail lights and the suspect LED works in neither then you have some form of duff LED. If the one socket refuses to light the LED then that socket has a fault in the form of a bad wiring connection.
A bad wiring connection may well be overcome by the demand from a filament bulb. It may well arc across the connection and seem OK for some time, even if it gets hot/warm locally.
Do some swapping about of bulbs in sockets where possible and you should solve it.
|Thread: Help making Radius Turner|
Yes, it's Cycle Thread. The reason for using the finer thread is that it is less likely to come undone/work loose. Therefor a 1/2" x 20 UNF would be better than 1/2" x 16 BSF and should be fine for personal use. You still need an 11.5mm or a bit bigger drill for the UNF tapping size. Better still would be 1/2" x 32.
At a real push and with good confidence, you could machine to a fit (no thread at all) and superglue at least the lower parts together.
Just go for it but make your parts concentric. No hand threadcutting in space.
|Thread: Belt cover construction|
I have serial number 66152 which looks identical. You are in fact two pieces short as the cover needs a back support as well on that model. It is sheet steel but I wouldn't have to try and bend it up at the original thickness! It even has turned in edges! Sent you a PM.
|Thread: Micrometer woes|
The very reason I don't respond to much on this site. You gave him a possible suppliers name, about which he may have to buy a lorry load to obtain what he needs. I don't know, but my solution may get him an offcut for nothing which is all he needs. I am gone.
All fine commiserating responses but not really answering Phil's question. I too have suffered the powdered foam and replaced it with some women's materials. My wife tells me it is called Synthetic Wadding available in sheets of different thicknesses and mine is white. I just layered up what was donated to me. It cuts well enough, but would not replace felt lining as it is very open in texture and quite hardish.
Just done an Amazon for that name and it brings up some that may be far too soft. Suggest going into furniture restorers or women's materials shops. I cannot be more specific.
I have the stuff in a few places with some oil applied for good measure and it shows no signs of breaking down so far. About 5 years for some of it I would say. I also have applied some felt in places but also oiled that as well.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Backgear eccentric screw|
Well now, what size drill did you use? BSF tapping is 5.3mm for a good fit. If you have drilled out much bigger than that you are going to have to form a new thread area at some bigger size and make a special screw to fit or do as you suggest yourself with a plug. If you have gone off-centre with your drilling (which is likely) then a plug would be better with a pre-drilled and tapped central hole. Since your new screw is tight there is a chance you can form a fresh 1/4" BSF thread in what is left, but it sounds as if you have drilled out too big to do that. Note that the hole/thread must be fairly square to the original hole for the eccentric shaft to lie in the right place. Whatever you do, you need a right size set of second and plug tap.
As a second thought your new screw from new Myford may have a 6mm metric thread.
Edited By DMR on 31/12/2018 22:51:47
1/4" BSF. Only the outer 0.350" or so is threaded. The rest measures 0.193" dia or 4.9mm (just a BSF clearance) and is about 0.750" long with a bit of a lead-in taper at the inner end. Overall length is about 1.080". I have a used spare in my hand but new Myford will sell you one. Part A1987 Backgear eccentric screw. Same on Mk1 as the later ones up to metrication.
Good luck, Dennis
|Thread: Mk1 Super 7 - What colours ?|
I am entering this conversation without reading it all so just three points:-
1) The yellow down the middle of the bed depicted an unhardened bed. A hardened bed was painted red.
2) A wide gauge saddle will not work on your early bed. The leadscrew claspnut will not line-up.
3) The Brass tube on the drip-feed is a push fit, straight sided arrangement. You need a good BSF bolt (1/4 BSF I think) that will screw in the length of the thread so as to have a fair chance of not stripping it. Set up a lever arrangement to the back side of the oil well and pull straight up; it gives way very suddenly - frightening!
As to your cracked white back piece. Once you have it out, assuming it has not been bodge-glued in before, apply some Araldite or similar to the cleaned-up outside of the crack and that will do the job. I just run a bit of oil via the tap at start of session and that works fine. The sightglass was never meant to be filled, so no need for an oil-tight fit.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Help please|
Paul, The machine number starts SK?????. I can just make it out on the front of the bed in your pictures and it helps to quote it. The gearbox has a number too QC?????, stamped on the r/h end. You don't show any other chucks, particularly a 4 jaw (not drill chucks) Various aspects put it at early 60s and it has raising blocks, Myford stand, drip tray and of course gearbox. The motor on the floor seems extra - a spare in addition. There are no other extras like vertical slides, steadies, etc which would increase the value. Don't run it without checking oil levels and do you have the service manual? A buyer should want to see it run.
I don't think its been repainted: the finish is too good. Just never been used as in no paint chips and only basic additional equipment. Hence the superficial rust on unpainted surfaces. The state of the bed matters a lot and whether the carriage will slide all along it without any looseness. Include a picture of the l/h end of the bed for any damage as that means a lot too.
It would help you to say where your are in your profile, if only approximately, and a buyer may emerge locally. The world is as Tony and Dave say. If it is the unused/unworn machine it appears to me to be then 2K is not impossible.
|Thread: Myford super 7|
Michael, I have sent you a PM with my e-mail address.
The last S7 to have the "early" expanding clutch was SK 8127 made in June 1958 so your 1964 (It is) bed has been married to an early clutch at some time in the past.
I no longer have an early clutch but the shaft end float you describe should not exist. Do you have the red fibre thrust washers (2 off towards each shaft end) shown as item 4 in Robbo's part diagram? They were about 1mm thick each and would account for the float. As to the drag, the clutch ring should be free inside the pulley in its relaxed state while you have it apart, and it sounds like you were trying to remove the adjusting screw with the clutch engaged which is wrong. The adjusting screw should be domed where it meets the taper slot in the Actuating Bar. I have the early manual pages for setting the clutch which I can e-mail if you want them.
Robbo beat me with some of this
Edited By DMR on 19/05/2018 01:20:13
Edited By DMR on 19/05/2018 01:22:31
|Thread: Repairing a Verdict Dial Test Indicator|
So it is a Verdict.
Your "hair spring' in your top picture is bent such that it appears to be trying to move the main lever upwards but the lever has not moved upwards. Couple that with the external ball-end knob in your bottom picture being apparently centre biased then the spring should be quite straight and unseen under the main lever, unless things have changed between pictures.
Edited By DMR on 02/05/2018 22:52:48
To me, your verdict is not just elderly, it's very elderly/old and nothing like the pictures posted. Does it say Verdict on the dial or are you just referring to it as a Verdict type? Go back to my first post and consider that the dial pointer only travels just over one full turn. Move the lever under the dial to each extreme and you should find that the dial pointer reverses its action by one turn. The probe then works the dial in the other direction. It is not a centre-zero device. Rotate the dial's bezel to reset to read zero if required. If you do have a fault the spring wire (your "hair spring" description I think) on the inside end of the external lever looks bent in your top picture.
I have no idea how old my Verdicts are; they came to me with a Myford years ago. I would assume that a plastic lever would represent a more recent 'improvement' as they say. I have three of them, all in their blue boxes with fittings but I only ever use one of them and there are multiple variations of the included fittings The two unused ones have one inch diam dials and 0.01mm and 0.001" ranges. The inches one sports an extended probe (by me) to the original, 20mm long instead of the original 10mm that I made when I needed longer reach, not considering the loss of sensitivity as a result. Just a means to a tricky end. Incidentally I have two spanners to fit the flats on the probes included in the boxes so some gauges probably came with multiple probes with different lengths and/or tips.
The DTI I do use has a 1.5" dial and 0.0005" scale which totally beats the other two, I normally use a dial gauge through choice and never measure with any of them.
Just for Martin's sake (and if we have diagnosed his problem correctly) I have put some pictures in an album of what the lever under the dial should look like. The washer is chamfered on the outside and creates friction with the lever to hold the lever in place. Have a go Martin. Don't sling it.
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