Here is a list of all the postings DMR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How I am wasting time|
When a big load of molten steel gets accidentally dropped into a snow -driven muddy puddle, it makes quite a big bang and quite a big mess. Port Talbot BOS (Basic Oxygen Steel) plant during early commissioning.
|Thread: MYFORD S 7 BELTS ?|
Are you sure its the belt? Have a good look at the condition of the pulley/s involved. Your belt may be bottoming in the V of the pulley due to wear there. Don't be tempted by link belts if you use top speed on a Myford S7. It won't fit, but otherwise go for it if you want.
|Thread: Ml7 just bought, need help to set up|
Chris, It would help a lot to know where you are in the world. There may be someone near to you who would help. I hope you are not going to do anything with the lathe before changing out of your nice clean slippers!
You should ask the seller if he forgot to give you the relevant chuck keys, but equally you should be able to make your own at far less cost than buying new. Otherwise dial up "lathe chuck key" on ebay and find one with a square end at least as big as you require and file down two sides of it to a fit.
The disc with the bobble on (as you refer to it) is a catch plate for turning work between centers. Dial up "catch plate" on google and it shows you what else you need for that like suitable drive dogs and a couple of centers for each end of your work.
|Thread: Early Myford Super 7 (1953) Spindle lubrication|
I am with Simon Williams 3 on this. You do not need a continuous oil feed and, above all your window arrangement is not irrepairable. I have an S7 of both designs. My early machine has no cone scoring whereas the later machine does, presumably from the felt pad running dry in the past.
What you do need to do is get the tap (as Myford called it) out upwards so that you can push your new white casing into place. That is a bit of a frightening exercise as it is a push-fit. Just oil the hole in the back of the sight glass and even put a spot on top of the cone where it sticks out at the front and you will be good to run for a few hours. You need a piece of nylon rod or similar to turn up a new white bit and put a fine thread on the front/outer end. Trickiest bit is the screw-on front with its short fine thread. The fibre washer is easy and I have spare glass as I made 3 from a microscope side when I broke mine.
See my PM and I can talk you through it if you are interested.
|Thread: Sigh, practicing a skill I would rather not need|
Looks like an Acme tap to me. Good list of advise from my almost name-sake
|Thread: Myford Super 7 QC gearbox Mk1 problem|
The guts of the Mk1 are identical to those in the Mk2; only the external gears are different. Note that it is not sensibly possible to convert the Mk1 to be a Mk2. I think you will need to remove the box to remove the Lay Shaft to get at the taper pin on the 39T shaft. No reason to not us the same taper pin again; just get all the tapers the right way round or it will work loose. Your external gears got broken because you don’t have the aluminium cover over them. It helps stops swarf and the saddle running into them. It is possible to fabricate a replacement and I can give you pictures if it helps
|Thread: Axminster Drill Clamp|
Beware, There are different sizes of these things. Check the width of the slot you intend it to fit before purchase. I got the big one first and it didn't fit the Startrite. Great toy though.
|Thread: BA Allen Keys|
BA was never metric to my knowledge. You need an imperial inches set.
|Thread: myford ML7 21/56T Backgear dimensions|
I am not an ML7 man so cannot do the dimensions but as Grizzly says. you can buy the part from new myford for 65 quid all in. Much easier than trying to make the ganged assembly which would have to be in steel. Do you have the Back Gear Eccentric assembly that it fits onto plus the 2BA x 1/2" socket countersunk screw and washer that hold the gear in place?
|Thread: Helical pencil sharpener blade replacement|
I have sharpened one successfully using my Harold Hall grinding set. Mine is a very old chrome job on its own stand. A small diameter grinding wheel is essential to achieve a clearance with the following cutting edge. I cannot imagine anyone achieving a reasonable result freehand as the cutting edges are so close together.
|Thread: Damaged mill|
E-mail me with an e-mail address and I will send you some schematics. I have the Chester version but it will be the same thing. I believe the part comes off but only by removing the quill. Its the wrong time of day to go looking
|Thread: Restoring a wooden tool box, help needed|
I second Cascomite and you need 2 sash cramps and some strips of timber under your clampings to protect your box sides and hold your joint/s. Don't remove the varnish first. Leave it on as it will help stop the glue adhering where you don't want it. Plan ahead. Do some experimental clampings without glue so you don't get into a situation where the glue is seting on you. The point where you need most pressure is not necessarily at the worst bowing point and you cannot put 2 clamps, 90 degrees apart, at the same point on the corner so experiment without glue.
Work the Cascomite in with a Stanley knife or an old hypo syringe (no needle). Anything that will get the glue right through the joint/s. If you have it right it will ooze out when you clamp it up and you need some wet rags to wipe off all the oozings which should be most of what you have applied if you got it right in there.
|Thread: Myford motor wiring problems|
Steviegtr, You seem to have a Crompton motor from your terminals at the motor. it would appear that Kevan may have a Brook or Gryphon motor from what he has said so far, which has completely different terminal designations at the motor. Your Dewhirst switch connections are OK for single phase. I hope you have an earth wire too that is not shown
I think the first question should be have you run the motor/machine since you purchased it with the original switch? Then, where is this circuit breaker that blew. Away from the machine presumably?
Start winding will be 6 to 7 ohms. Run winding will be 12 to 15 ohms. Green should be earth. At least one green should go to motor frame. Do you mean there are 6 wires coming out of the motor to the terminal board or that the terminal board in the motor has 6 terminals, or both. Is there an 8 way terminal block on the back of the lathe stand if you have the stand, or is the switch wired directly to the motor? Don't know the SEM terminal markings but A1 - A2 are usually black and run. Such info is not gospel as different manufacturers used their own codes. You need to confirm all the terminal markings? A1 A2 Z1 Z2 seems likely plus any others?
Please don't blow your own fuse. Always switch off first.
|Thread: Getting an ML7|
Note to JF1, Peters other photos in his album show a capacitor box.
One reference I have come across for Gryphon says the starter winding and running winding have there original labels of A1, A2 and Z2, Z3. I hope that helps further. I used to live in Bridgwater but am in Chester now. Otherwise I might have come for that refreshment.
Edited By DMR on 28/08/2020 22:22:53
Tread carefully for now. Dennis
|Thread: Chester lathe as my new lathe anyone|
I live quite close to Chester and did visit for things at first (around the year 2000). They never had what I wanted and I was always told to visit the website. This told me that everything was coming from China on a just in time basis. For anyone out there who received a spare part for a faulty new machine quickly, then they were more than likely receiving something from another complete machine in stock.
I have visited some of their open days and selected various cast offs. I bought a bandsaw once in an original scrappy box. The returns letter about the faults was still in the bottom of the box. It was easily fixed (spring tension on the arm too great, and too much gearbox oil looking like an oil leak) but they had made no attempts on fixes and obviously not even taken it out of the box!
About 5 years ago I was in Guildford for a wedding and made a point of visiting Warco. I wish they were my local.
|Thread: Warco WM16 Gib strips|
If you follow some of the advice above and try to bash the parts apart from the wrong end, you may well crack/break your table casting. Get it wrong and you are driving the stuck/wedged gib harder into the dovetailing.
The gib strip is very slightly tapered end-to-end in the horizontal plain and you need to determine which is the thinner end. You should be able to judge that having removed the gib adjusters. You need to tap/hit the thin end of gib strip to release the pressure. You can hit that end as hard as you like with something thinner than the gib strip, but do not distort the end of the strip!
Are you sure that the right hand adjuster "screw for adjusting the gib strip was protruding more than usual" or had the whole gib strip moved away from the screw, that had not in fact moved at all? In which case the thin end of the gib strip is definitely at the left hand end and that is the end to hit. Study what you have or you could break it.
|Thread: Myford Mk1 Super 7 restoration|
Double posting. Sorry
Edited By DMR on 05/04/2020 18:06:51
I hav'nt found a number on the gearbox yet to date it, I understand the 'Early' early boxes had unhardened gears, but I think they pre-date this year.
It's under the cover at the tailstock end, QC followed by 4 numbers less than 2496. If you know the lathe's history and it was not in private hands, then quite likely the gearbox was retro-fitted with hardened cogs at cost by Myford as there was a recognised flaw. Private buyers were not told I believe. The guts of the gearbox are identical to the later version but external drive was totally different. If you want to cut anything that is not an imperial thread, then you need to consult those who know.
Before further cost outlay as in 3 phase drive, etc, get the thing running and try it out. You may decide a different path. Use the existing electrics for the same reason, as you have proved they work, but check any wiring for faults, frays, nicks, etc. Take no notice of the Elfin Safety lot or you won't get anywhere.
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