Here is a list of all the postings DMR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Restoring a wooden tool box, help needed|
I second Cascomite and you need 2 sash cramps and some strips of timber under your clampings to protect your box sides and hold your joint/s. Don't remove the varnish first. Leave it on as it will help stop the glue adhering where you don't want it. Plan ahead. Do some experimental clampings without glue so you don't get into a situation where the glue is seting on you. The point where you need most pressure is not necessarily at the worst bowing point and you cannot put 2 clamps, 90 degrees apart, at the same point on the corner so experiment without glue.
Work the Cascomite in with a Stanley knife or an old hypo syringe (no needle). Anything that will get the glue right through the joint/s. If you have it right it will ooze out when you clamp it up and you need some wet rags to wipe off all the oozings which should be most of what you have applied if you got it right in there.
|Thread: Myford motor wiring problems|
Steviegtr, You seem to have a Crompton motor from your terminals at the motor. it would appear that Kevan may have a Brook or Gryphon motor from what he has said so far, which has completely different terminal designations at the motor. Your Dewhirst switch connections are OK for single phase. I hope you have an earth wire too that is not shown
I think the first question should be have you run the motor/machine since you purchased it with the original switch? Then, where is this circuit breaker that blew. Away from the machine presumably?
Start winding will be 6 to 7 ohms. Run winding will be 12 to 15 ohms. Green should be earth. At least one green should go to motor frame. Do you mean there are 6 wires coming out of the motor to the terminal board or that the terminal board in the motor has 6 terminals, or both. Is there an 8 way terminal block on the back of the lathe stand if you have the stand, or is the switch wired directly to the motor? Don't know the SEM terminal markings but A1 - A2 are usually black and run. Such info is not gospel as different manufacturers used their own codes. You need to confirm all the terminal markings? A1 A2 Z1 Z2 seems likely plus any others?
Please don't blow your own fuse. Always switch off first.
|Thread: Getting an ML7|
Note to JF1, Peters other photos in his album show a capacitor box.
One reference I have come across for Gryphon says the starter winding and running winding have there original labels of A1, A2 and Z2, Z3. I hope that helps further. I used to live in Bridgwater but am in Chester now. Otherwise I might have come for that refreshment.
Edited By DMR on 28/08/2020 22:22:53
Tread carefully for now. Dennis
|Thread: Chester lathe as my new lathe anyone|
I live quite close to Chester and did visit for things at first (around the year 2000). They never had what I wanted and I was always told to visit the website. This told me that everything was coming from China on a just in time basis. For anyone out there who received a spare part for a faulty new machine quickly, then they were more than likely receiving something from another complete machine in stock.
I have visited some of their open days and selected various cast offs. I bought a bandsaw once in an original scrappy box. The returns letter about the faults was still in the bottom of the box. It was easily fixed (spring tension on the arm too great, and too much gearbox oil looking like an oil leak) but they had made no attempts on fixes and obviously not even taken it out of the box!
About 5 years ago I was in Guildford for a wedding and made a point of visiting Warco. I wish they were my local.
|Thread: Warco WM16 Gib strips|
If you follow some of the advice above and try to bash the parts apart from the wrong end, you may well crack/break your table casting. Get it wrong and you are driving the stuck/wedged gib harder into the dovetailing.
The gib strip is very slightly tapered end-to-end in the horizontal plain and you need to determine which is the thinner end. You should be able to judge that having removed the gib adjusters. You need to tap/hit the thin end of gib strip to release the pressure. You can hit that end as hard as you like with something thinner than the gib strip, but do not distort the end of the strip!
Are you sure that the right hand adjuster "screw for adjusting the gib strip was protruding more than usual" or had the whole gib strip moved away from the screw, that had not in fact moved at all? In which case the thin end of the gib strip is definitely at the left hand end and that is the end to hit. Study what you have or you could break it.
|Thread: Myford Mk1 Super 7 restoration|
Double posting. Sorry
Edited By DMR on 05/04/2020 18:06:51
I hav'nt found a number on the gearbox yet to date it, I understand the 'Early' early boxes had unhardened gears, but I think they pre-date this year.
It's under the cover at the tailstock end, QC followed by 4 numbers less than 2496. If you know the lathe's history and it was not in private hands, then quite likely the gearbox was retro-fitted with hardened cogs at cost by Myford as there was a recognised flaw. Private buyers were not told I believe. The guts of the gearbox are identical to the later version but external drive was totally different. If you want to cut anything that is not an imperial thread, then you need to consult those who know.
Before further cost outlay as in 3 phase drive, etc, get the thing running and try it out. You may decide a different path. Use the existing electrics for the same reason, as you have proved they work, but check any wiring for faults, frays, nicks, etc. Take no notice of the Elfin Safety lot or you won't get anywhere.
I sent you a PM yesterday. A vital piece of information previously related to on this site is the removal of the countershaft that the clutch is on. The shaft MUST be removed towards the tailstock as there is a tiny step that is damaged if you try and remove it the other way. I have the relevant pages of the Mk1 manual that cover the clutch. I can send if you PM me with an e-mail address. Another bit of info is that because the serial number is still on the back, your bed has never been reground and the wear is on the front shear front and back only.
|Thread: Brook motor off Myford Lathe problem|
A cautionary note on that capacitor, bearing in mind that you think it was previously reconditioned. It may exist like it does because someone found that the case of it was conducting. make sure it stays isolated from earth if that is the case.
|Thread: Any ideas please|
Firestone roofing rubber is thin, tough, proof against most things and flat, and an excellent replacement, but you can only buy a minimum of 1 metre lengths of something up to 6 metres wide. I got mine by asking for the offcuts from my own roof, which were gladly handed over. I think I have seen similar stuff as part of pond installations which may be easier to obtain bits of. I have needed to do two machines now and had no troubles since. How much do you need?
Always tether mouse traps with a length of wire or string and a tent peg. Stops them disappearing when you get a rat or grey squirrel instead. I used peanut butter as well.
|Thread: How do I change the "default" lever angle on my Verdict DTI?|
A footnote into this discussion. The level has a very fine thread into the hub and can easily be broken off if the hub is tight to shift. The hub bearing is not robust either. I always alter my angle of approach by holding the base of the lever and twisting in a circular action to ease the forces on the finer bits. I keep a finger nail on the go for such purposes, Hope that makes sense.
|Thread: Dorris article|
Not familiar with Doris but the article is in the Q&A section and covers the apparent lack of lagging/cleading for the boiler. There is apparently limited space and the question covers the use of a Martin Evans "Euston" boiler design instead with some associated redesign work. Martin Evans answers with various boiler possibilities.
I have PM'd you if you still want a copy of the page.
|Thread: Faulty LED|
More info would help and I fail to see why a circuit board is involved unless you just mean the tracks in the light cluster. You appear to have purchased replacement LED lights for a car, or at least a vehicle that is not a motorbike as you seem to need more than one of each. A tail light is no different to a brake light so far as putting 12V across it. The brake light takes more amps/power and is brighter.
Does the suspect LED work in the other tail light socket? Is the other tail light illuminating in both sockets. With limited info it is only possible to say the following. A conventional filament bulb takes a lot more power than your LED. If the other LED works in both tail lights and the suspect LED works in neither then you have some form of duff LED. If the one socket refuses to light the LED then that socket has a fault in the form of a bad wiring connection.
A bad wiring connection may well be overcome by the demand from a filament bulb. It may well arc across the connection and seem OK for some time, even if it gets hot/warm locally.
Do some swapping about of bulbs in sockets where possible and you should solve it.
|Thread: Help making Radius Turner|
Yes, it's Cycle Thread. The reason for using the finer thread is that it is less likely to come undone/work loose. Therefor a 1/2" x 20 UNF would be better than 1/2" x 16 BSF and should be fine for personal use. You still need an 11.5mm or a bit bigger drill for the UNF tapping size. Better still would be 1/2" x 32.
At a real push and with good confidence, you could machine to a fit (no thread at all) and superglue at least the lower parts together.
Just go for it but make your parts concentric. No hand threadcutting in space.
|Thread: Belt cover construction|
I have serial number 66152 which looks identical. You are in fact two pieces short as the cover needs a back support as well on that model. It is sheet steel but I wouldn't have to try and bend it up at the original thickness! It even has turned in edges! Sent you a PM.
|Thread: Micrometer woes|
The very reason I don't respond to much on this site. You gave him a possible suppliers name, about which he may have to buy a lorry load to obtain what he needs. I don't know, but my solution may get him an offcut for nothing which is all he needs. I am gone.
All fine commiserating responses but not really answering Phil's question. I too have suffered the powdered foam and replaced it with some women's materials. My wife tells me it is called Synthetic Wadding available in sheets of different thicknesses and mine is white. I just layered up what was donated to me. It cuts well enough, but would not replace felt lining as it is very open in texture and quite hardish.
Just done an Amazon for that name and it brings up some that may be far too soft. Suggest going into furniture restorers or women's materials shops. I cannot be more specific.
I have the stuff in a few places with some oil applied for good measure and it shows no signs of breaking down so far. About 5 years for some of it I would say. I also have applied some felt in places but also oiled that as well.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Backgear eccentric screw|
Well now, what size drill did you use? BSF tapping is 5.3mm for a good fit. If you have drilled out much bigger than that you are going to have to form a new thread area at some bigger size and make a special screw to fit or do as you suggest yourself with a plug. If you have gone off-centre with your drilling (which is likely) then a plug would be better with a pre-drilled and tapped central hole. Since your new screw is tight there is a chance you can form a fresh 1/4" BSF thread in what is left, but it sounds as if you have drilled out too big to do that. Note that the hole/thread must be fairly square to the original hole for the eccentric shaft to lie in the right place. Whatever you do, you need a right size set of second and plug tap.
As a second thought your new screw from new Myford may have a 6mm metric thread.
Edited By DMR on 31/12/2018 22:51:47
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.