Here is a list of all the postings Michael Cox 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: homemade tool & cutter grinder (step by step)|
|Thread: metal bandsaw improvement|
Yes they are all mods to the basic machine.
My bandsaw, sold in the uk by Axminster, is basically similar but the vice arrangement is different. I have made a few mods to my saw see:
|Thread: Metal cutting bandsaw|
I have made a small but more substantial table for vertical bandsawing on my Axminster 4 x 6 saw. I made the table smaller and hinged so that it can remain in position even when using the saw in the horizontal mode. I also made a detachable fence for the table to facilitate straight cuts. Because it is always on the bandsaw, ready for action, it gets used quite frequently. More details are here:
For thin metal (<1.5 mm) it is necessary to feed slowly and steadily to avoid snatching and the possibility of breaking the teeth on the blade but it is only a matter of practice to develop a good technique.
I prefer to use a nibble to cut thin sheet, see
http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/nibbler.html and http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/a-nibbler-table.html
|Thread: Aluminium as a feed nut|
I have a Delrin nut on my lathe cross-slide. I did the mod some months ago and the backlash is still zero, see:
The part dealing with the Delrin feed nut is at the end of the page.
|Thread: Drawer Liners|
These are quite good for storing taps, milling cutters etc.
I found these in Portugal but I have since seen them in the uk.
I also found these for storing ER32 collets:
|Thread: John Stevenson Trophy|
Just bumping this up so that it is visible again.
|Thread: MEW 261 -Mike Cox - Axis Stop bars|
I fitted stops to my minilathe and also added a dro, see:
At a later stage I modified this system so that the carriage would stop moving when it reached the stop, see:
These pages may give you some ideas,
|Thread: Metalworking files - Guidance required please|
+1 for Tome Feteira files from ArcEuroTrade.
|Thread: ME Editor|
Diane, Best wishes and a speedy recovery.
|Thread: MEW 261 -Mike Cox - Axis Stop bars|
My usual way of making rounded ends on bars is to find or make a washer the same width as the bar and bolt this to the bar through the hole in the bar. Then excess material was cut off crudely using a hacksaw as you describe using the washer as a guide. Once most of the material has been removed then use a file or linisher to clean up the profile, again using the washer as a guide.
This is usually much quicker for a couple of small pieces than to set up the mill to do the job.
|Thread: Setting up a website|
Further to John Haine's comment above I have used weebly.com for many years and it is easy to set up a website and there are no charges. I was pointed in the direction of weebly by Andy Franks who used to post on this group and many others. His website is www.andysmachines.weebly.com. Sadly Andy passed away a few years back and joined the big workshop in the sky.
I do not understand their business model or how they make money but weebly works well and there is a good support team if there are any problems.
|Thread: Diamond coated steel disks for grinding from China|
I have been using these diamond discs,
on a modified bench grinder running at 3000 rpm for some time. They work very well for grinding carbide. I also use the set up to grind HSS, particularly drill bits, see:
The secret of a long disc life is to use only a gentle pressure against the disc when grinding. High pressures can rip the diamond particles from the disc.
|Thread: John Stevenson|
That is the worst news I have heard in a long time. My thoughts are with Debs and his family.
Get well soon John.
Your contributions are always interesting together with a good dose of humour.
|Thread: Gear cutting|
Very nice job. I am pleased to hear that others are using the cone drill method. It is so much easier than the button method.
|Thread: Feedback Sought - Beginner's Series|
I would have thought that "Setting up a workshop" would make a good title for a small book on the subject in the Workshop Practice series. This series seems to be reprinted when stocks run low so it would always be available for new comers. It would probably need to be revised occasionally to reflect advances in machinery and new techniques but this would only be necessary at say 5 yearly intervals.
|Thread: Superglue Activator|
Cyanoacrylate adhesive set by reaction with water. Normally this is provided by the humidity in the atmosphere. To encourage rapid setting just breath on the parts before and after application of the adhesive and then press them together. Most cosmetic spays contain some water so will function as activators.
|Thread: 3D printed soft jaws|
Not having a 3D printer (yet!!!!) I had to make my soft jaws, which clamp onto the outside chuck jaws, using conventional machining methods. Further details are here:
|Thread: Casting Help|
I melt mixed aluminium waste to make castings. The material usually turns OK for machining. The only time I have had a problem with gummy material was when I melted only aluminium extrusions (old double glazing frames) and this material was quite soft and gummy. Gummy aluminium can be improved by dissolving 1 or 2 % copper in the melt.
To get good clean castings then it is important to remove as much slag as possible from the melt. To do this I add LoSalt (a mixture of sodium and potassium chloride for people on low salt diets - available in most supermarkets) as a flux. This is stirred into the molten metal and it brings all the slag to the top where it can be scraped off.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.