Here is a list of all the postings Michael Cox 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Result - the 2019 Stevenson Trophy|
Thank you all for your kind words and thanks to all that voted for my low profile clamps.
|Thread: seals for mini lathe tapered roller bearings?|
I do not remember having to do any work on the end caps, but it was 6 years ago. I will have a look tomorrow and give you an update.
This is the approach that I used when I did my taper roller conversion. I figured that at the very least the o-ring would act as a thrower ring and prevent oil and swarf migrating along the spindle shaft. I did the conversion at least 6 years ago. Every year I remove the plastic endcaps and inspect for debris. I have never found anything after the o-ring.
|Thread: New Zealand Terror Attack|
I too echo Niels comments. I hope the families and friends of those killed and injured get the support of their own community and the support of all NZ people.
|Thread: Last Night's Astro Image|
What I am in awe of is that Neil holds down a day job, edits MEW, writes books, spends time in his workshop, is very active on this website and he still finds time to sit outside at night staring at the stars!!!! Amazing.
|Thread: Balco 3D Printer|
My Balco printer, the same as the current offering from Aldi, has a very firm steel frame and is already equipped with a cooling fan on the extruder. I have had no problems with it straight out of the box except for the levelling screws on the print table being a bit loose. This problem was easily solved by printing some washers that fit under the springs of the levelling screws.
|Thread: Motor for a Sieg X1 mill or (M1 attachment)|
I just remember seeing this:
This is a powerful;motor, 500W, and variable speed power supply already assembled at a cost of £120
The motor that you picture on the Clarke milling attachment to the C1 lathe looks identical to the motor on my X1 mill from ArcEurotrade.
Since it is unlikely that you would need to use the milling spindle and the lathe spindle at the same time I suspect that the attachment does not have a separate power controller board and that it is run from the same controller as the lathe motor. Is there a socket on the back of the C1 that the attachment plugs into?
I would urge you to consider making a belt drive conversion rather than replacing the gears in the mill headstock. The belt drive is much quieter, smoother and reduces any shock loading on the spindle. It is sudden shock loading that tend to upset the controller board. My belt drive conversion on the X1 mill is shown here:
As an alternative motor you may be able to pick up a small dc motor that was made for an electric golf trolley. Ebay usually lists some of them. This could be used with a 12 V motor controller from Ebay
|Thread: Cheap 3D printers|
I bought one of the ALDI printers and I am very pleased with it. The only problem that I have had is that the springs on the bed for the levelling screws are too short and they do not hold the bed in a reproducable position. I 3D printed some spacers to fit under the springs and everything is better now.
|Thread: Super glue filler|
Small hollow glass microbeads used to be recovered from the flyash of coal-fired powerstations. They were known and markerted under the name Armospheres. In the match industry they were used as a way to control the density of the match composition applied to the end of the match stick. I guess with the demise of coal fired power stations they are less available than they used to be.
|Thread: Keyway cutting|
Here are the things I have made to do internal keyways:
|Thread: Difficulty with gears for some thread pitches. (mini lathe)|
Here is another option:
|Thread: 1.5 hp dc motor|
This might be of interest:
|Thread: Min lathe steady rest for up to 65mm diameter|
Here is my solution:
|Thread: Mini Lathe Rear Tool Post|
I made a rear toolpost for my minilathe, see:
Before making the toolpost I had already made a tee slot cross slide which was considerably longer than the standard cross slide.
The tee slot provide a ready means of attachment for the rear toolpost but I think the rear toolpost could be attached directly to the cross slite it a hole were drilled and tapped .
The big problem that you will have using the standard cross slide is there will be little distance between the front toolpost and the rear toolpost and this will limit the size of work that can be turned. If you are only making small parts than maybe this will not be a problem.
Perhaps the cross slide could be extended back by bolting a piece of steel plate to the top of the cross slide that overhangs the back. The rear tool post could be mounted on the overhang.
I hope this is useful
|Thread: Blackening steel parts|
There has recently been an interesting posting on the HSM forum for blackening steel using ammonium nitrate. This seems to avoid most of the complications and dangers associated with normal hot blackening baths. see:
When I have obtained the material I intend to give this process a try.
|Thread: Non-Ferrous Casting|
I regularly make lost foam castings by just burying the foam in loose dry sand with a foam riser protruding above the surface. No need for greensand or venting.
|Thread: Fitting an adjustable damper to my power saw|
The hydraulic downfeed and many other improvements to the bandsaw were described in detail, with full constructional drawings, in a series of articles in MEW 227, MEW 228 and MEW 229.
|Thread: Mini-lathe dying..?|
The pot is actually quite difficult to source because the switch at the back turns off, ie contacts open, as the control knob is turned clockwise. This is the opposite of most normal posts where the contacts close as the control knob is turned clockwise.
|Thread: Cutting a keyway without a broach|
My broach was not based on yours but it does use the same principle. My broach has been on my website for about 10 years and an article on it was published in MEW 184 in December 2011.
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