Here is a list of all the postings Michael Cox 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Left hand whit studding|
They to an amazing range of studs and fasteners. I have purchased LH studding from them in the past.
|Thread: Is it possible to by "100% non-stick" spatulas for spreading glue? (ideally made from teflon/FEP)|
Just a thought. Why not use a metal scraper and cover it with self adhesive tape ( parcel tape, PVC insulating tape, Tuff tape etc). Use the coated scraper and then wipe of excess. After the curing time of the adhesive just peel of the tape and the scraper is ready to use again.
I save the wooden stirrers from Costa coffee for mixing epoxy adhesives. The small tubs of milk supplied with a cup of tea in some cafes I also take home and wash. These make excellent pots for mixing small quantities of Epoxy adhesive.
|Thread: ola (hello) from portugal|
This group is full of people that are very helpful. Just ask questions and you will get many answers.
Where in Portugal are you located?
|Thread: Unimat 3 lathe motor|
Does the motor rattle if run on the bench and not driving the lathe?
|Thread: It would be nice to know........|
I usually run the cutter backwards in order to locate the edge on the material to be machined. Running the cutter backwards does not remove any metal and give a very clear audio indication when the rotating cutter touches the edge.
|Thread: 12 volt motor speed controller|
Michael - the speed control module I used MFAcomodrills part number 919D29, see:
I built a power drive for my mill table. This allows slow variable speed for cutting and full speed for the return. The cut direction is selectable. The speed control is based on a pulse width modulated speed controller. Full details are here:
|Thread: Acrylic as an Insulator|
The only problem with acrylic as an insulator is that it has quite a low softening temperature. This makes it usuitable for situations exposed to heat or where the switch may get hot. In these situation phenolic plastics like bakelite , Tufnol and Paxolin are better as they are much more heat resistant.
I never met John but I had several conversation with him and received very good advice on machining matter
|Thread: Component Suppliers - Recommendations?|
My go to source for electronic components is ESR Electronic Components. Always very helpful and goood delivery.
|Thread: Sieg X3 Tacho|
Clive, I do not know how similar your X3 is to my little X1 mill but I have added a tacho, see:
The tacho unit was supplied with a hall efect sensor but the sensor was too large to fit in a convenient place so a made a simple optical reflective sensor which works well using a reflective strip on the spindle.
|Thread: Chemically cleaning brass - gently|
Nearly all copper and zinc corrosion product will be soluble in household amminia solution. This will rapidly dissolve the corrosion products. Unfortunately household ammonia solution, which used to be a common cleaning agent during most of the 20 th century, is now quite difficult to find although it is readily available via ebay. If you use this wash with water afterwards and then rinse with alcohol (methalated spirit, denatured alcohol) and leave to dry.
|Thread: Mery Christmas Everybody|
Merry Christmas to all. Lets hope that the New Year is better than 2020.
|Thread: Parts Washer Pump|
If you go on ebay and search engine oil extractor or diesel oil pump there are many small low voltage (eg 12 V) pumps that typically pump about 5 litres/min available. They cost circa £10 and are rated at 60 watts.
|Thread: is there an easy identification test for Nickel and Chromium ?|
Chrome plating is much harder than nickel plating and usually much brighter. Compare a few items that are chrome plated using a fine steel scribe. Do not press hard and try to scratch the surface. The difference between that and normal steel and nickel is striking. Do not press hard because the plating is thin and if you press hard then the metal underneath will deform and it may appear scratched, Practice on a few chrome plate items and mild steel to see the difference.
Whiting is finely ground chalk that is used as a pigment in paints and in papermaking. It is practically pure calcium carbonate. It is a fine white powder.
For information chalk used on blackboards is not calcium carbonate but calcium sulphate so do norrt be tempted to grind up these.
|Thread: Home made cast Aluminium|
I have been melting aluminium and casting for a few years. It is relatively easy to make a propane gas fired furnace to melt aluminium from simple readily available materials. Old aluminium castings are the best source of material but I frequently mix old aluminium extrusions into a melt and this does not seem to be too detrimental. I usually make lost foam castings and these can have complex shapes. For stock for machining I usually cast in old tin cans for the larger diameters (50 mm -75 mm). The can after casting is simply cut and peeled off the solidified aluminium when cold. Smaller diameters are just cast in green sand using a bar of the right diameter as the pattern. The cast material usually machines very well. I once cast a rod from melted drinks cans but this was very gummy and it did not machine well.
To get a good clean casting without inclusions or void it is important to use a flux. I use a product called LoSalt which ios mixture of sodium and potassium chlorides as flux. This is readily available in supermarkets as it intended for people that need low salt diets. I desert spoonful of this in a one litre melt of aluminium brings all the dross up to the surface where it can be readily scraped of usinf a spoon.
I wrote an article that was published in MEW some years ago describing making the furnace and burner and describing some of the casting techniques. There is also some information on my website covering this, see:
|Thread: SX1 Mill Motor Shaft|
I did my own belt drive conversion, see:
I hope this helps.
|Thread: Measuring Gears (including pressure angle)|
Thanks for the post and the link.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.