Here is a list of all the postings Gordon W has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Hints and tips|
Here's two old tips, I've not seen written down, probably too basic for most of you lot. 1:-after setting up for thread cutting put a pencil in tool post and "cut the thread" then check pitch, saves some grief. 2:-for all of us without QCTs ,glue the shims to the tool after setting CH. Any old glue will do, saves some grief.
|Thread: Overheating grinder|
Hi again,have just checked both my cheapo grinders neither have vent holes, never noticed before! Thin cut-off discs on 4" & 41/2" angle grinders. I also stored inst. books and lots of other useful ? information in workshop/ shed, what hasn't gone mouldy is being used as a mouse house.I also am from Yorkshire, but the real bit ,North where we talk proper. Files can be cleaned and derusted by the electrolysis method, works well.
Hi Peter, spelt rite this time! I'm amazed you have the instruction book after all these years. Was going to suggest angle grinder also,best thing for lots of metal removal. The modern? thin cut of wheels are great, also for cutting tool steel blanks to length.
Hi, Petre-I have an even older cheapo 5" grinder, and it gets hot, best advice I can give is let it run with no load to let the fan work as much as possible.The air holes are clear arn't they? Can't be doing much wrong after 20 yrs.
|Thread: Free offers with subsciptions|
I am losing hair over this "free gift" saga. I've had a subscription for 2 years or more, the book I was promised was "out of stock", Was offered an alternative, this never came. Despite writing, emailing, and telephoning nothing has arrived, now they ignore letters. I would cancel my sub. exept I like the mag. ,but I don't like being conned.
|Thread: Hot air and stirling engines|
Hi, Ian- Flywheels, my problems are 1) can't get much in way of material except scrap, can't afford it anyway. 2) Lath will only turn 8" dia. max. truing up usually done with my favourit tool, the angle grinder. Should be OK for low revs.
Hi ,'m still collecting parts for my new "big" model. Fly wheel- 2 brake discs, one with centre cut out, bolted together and to a flange. Some ideas on welding etc.. Stainless steel is easy to silver solder with correct flux, bad conducter of heat so prop. torch OK. MIG on thin stuff not easy, I do "plug welds" on the 2CV. Have just got some MIG brazing wire, use with argon, I'm still practising but looks good for thin stuff and S/St. N.B not for pressure vessels, before somebody shoots me down.
|Thread: Lathe Backgear|
Hi, I've a chester 8" x 16" ,lowest speed is 125 rpm,the first thing I did on it was to rebore a water pump(domestic supply), this is way to big a job really, but it got done, now Iam making a larger pulley for the mandrel, boring out the center to fit on the O/D of existing pulley with 3 "legs" to fix to existing pulley with 3 screws, this will give a low speed about 70 rpm will need a new bigger belt. I also use a hand wheel for screwcutting, much easier and quicker, but I only do short threads, maybe 5 or 10
|Thread: End mills in a drill chuck|
I've used a drill chuck with end mill/slot drill for flat bottoming holes, also home made chuck, by drilling hole in soft end M/T arbour and holding with grub screw, I dont have any choice, like lots of others. Has nobody ever "opened up" a hole by using the side of the drill in a hand drill? Just use common sense
|Thread: Hot air and stirling engines|
Thanks for replies, will plan for a leather piston seal, and hollow displacer rod. Was thinking more of fatigue stress in disp. with constant change of pressure. My planned engine has disp. chamber 100mm bore x 100mmstroke, chamber length 300mm, in S/St. Disp. will be 95mm dia. ? x 200mm long. Power piston aprox. 60mm dia. to suit 2CV barrel i've just dug up, with stroke to suit! Both axes parallel. Next find big flywheel, and redraw plans. My small LTD motor has leak in displacer gland bearing ,I made this by fitting a plug at each end of bush, bored 1.5mm with brass rod, 1/16 dia polished down to fit.,but it leaks!! Yes was in engineering, mostly as Draffy, now retired
I've made a couple of little hot air motors, which don,t go, am now planning a larger model. This will have 4" bore hot cap, and about 2.5" bore power cyl., depending on what I can find. Questions:- Will a leather washer seal,on a cut away piston be suitable, and can it be made the same way as a small one? Also, would a small hole in the displacer be a good idea? I'm thinking of pressure relief after temp. rise. NB:-I'm not much of a model maker, still think of M6 as a small bolt.
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