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Member postings for Cornish Jack

Here is a list of all the postings Cornish Jack has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Metal compatability problems?
08/07/2010 12:27:13
Thank you Gordon and Martin.
Some progress made The manufacturers on the brochure are not, apparently,  the makers of these particular shutters although the design is similar. Spare parts may be unavailable. 
Re. the size/weight issue, the headbox was supported on two square section 'spigots' (for want of a better word) approximately 1" sides and 2 - 3 " long, which were part of the endplate castings. These were inserted into the tops of the two side guide rails for the shutters, these guide rails being attached to the wall with 4 off 8 gauge screws each. These have broken off. The whole lot, including roller shutter, motor, drive tube, headbox etc. was a fairly easy lift/carry - so maybe 30-40 lbs?
The intention, at the moment, would be to make up aluminium angle brackets, say 1/4" thick and 2" 'legs', 1" wide pop rivetted to the remains of the existing end plates and then attach these to the wall. The guide rails would no longer support the headbox. The end plates are about 6" square but the rivets would have to be positioned to avoid the roller blind when it's back in the headbox. Perhaps two brackets on each plate (top and bottom) for insurance?
If that works, several coats of quality paint, as Gordon suggests, might increase the life-span? Apologies for the ramble but I'm trying to test the possibilities on a knowlegeable audience, working from a personal knowledge base close to zero
07/07/2010 22:39:07
Thank you, V8Eng
That would be a possibility if the brochure carried any contact info... it doesn't and the 'net doesn't offer any help either. The other problem is that window shutters are bespoke so the spares (if available) are likely to be as expensive as the original I would (obviously) prefer to re-attach the old shutter if it's possible and if it is likely to remain attached for a year or three. I would still like some reassurance from someone who understands metals that the aluminium brackets are feasible.
07/07/2010 11:20:03
Sam, thank you for that but see the following.
As Confucius say, "When all else fails, read the %£**&! instructions!!" Having at last turned up the brochure, it states that the end plates of the headbox are, in fact, diecast aluminium rather than Mazak. So, presumably, although the same caveat re. dexion applies, ali fixing brackets would be OK? Does anyone know if differing types of aluminium would be problematical in contact or are there any precautions I should take in attaching the new brackets?
Any comments appreciated
06/07/2010 16:38:00
Thank you Keith.
Casting parts is undoubtedly a good idea, unless, like me, your manual skills are a liability rather than an asset!! Re. living in the sea - well the next best (worst) thing - we live directly (10' approx) above the beach exposed to the standard NE'lies off the North Sea. Salt there is aplenty.
It would seem that Delrin is produced in various forms but NOT in rectangular blocks such as would most easily suit my needs. I have ordered some round offcuts and will machine them to a right angle bracket form. Having no idea of stress levels or how to calculate same, I hope they will be effective rather than elegant!!
Again, thanks for the input.
05/07/2010 15:02:47
Thank you, Jeff - the Delrin method sounds ideal. The only problem I can see is identifying the right stuff! I have two or three pieces of "man-made" material but I'm not sufficiently 'au fait' to tell one from t'other   Presumably there will be considerable differences in strengths to make one sort better than another. Probably a web search for suppliers of the real Delrin would be the best bet. Thanks again
04/07/2010 17:45:58
I have to repair a roller blind shutter which has fractured the mounting lugs. The headbox ends and the  mounting lugs APPEAR to be made of Mazak or similar and I cannot see any way of repairing the fractures. However I COULD pop rivet metal brackets (Dexion offcuts) onto the ends and screw mount these to the wall.
Question 1 - does Mazak react to close contact with steel?
Question 2 - Would the above combination be more likely to corrosion in a VERY salt laden atmosphere? This last is prompted by the state of the headbox ends after a year or so in situ - powdery surface deterioration. 
Any suggestions/comments welcome.
Thread: Worden T&C Grinder design
11/05/2010 22:28:52
Sid - a bit 'late to the party' on this one but I have the Mk1 kit and am VERY slowly trying to complete it. Can't help with the reasons for the pivot change but I have the original Hemingway drawings if there is anything on those which might help, please let me know.
Thread: Shaper Tools
11/05/2010 22:03:15
May I jump aboard this thread with a repeat of a previous request for information on the Perfecto shaper, please? Last time I got lots of help with the second part of my query but nothing on the shaper. I'm fairly certain that I have seen at least one item on this particular model somewhere but cannot find it again. Thanks in advance,
Thread: Sale Items
23/12/2009 21:54:12
Thanks David.
Have just done as suggested and was able to both edit and, finally, delete my dummy ad.
Perhaps a note on the classified section suggesting action by the users might help.
Rgds Bill
23/12/2009 18:48:55
Probably directed towards DC (Editor) or website supervisor.
Could the For Sale items be removed or marked as sold when such is the case, please? I note that there are items dated back to the Summer, still being listed and I am aware that at least one such has been sold. Perhaps, if the originators can't be bothered to notify the details, listings should be automatically limited to two weeks and require renotification if still available. Similar terms for the Wanted listings also. Any problems with this?
Thread: Perfecto shaper
17/12/2009 18:25:12
Les and Meyrick - again many thanks. You have both gone to a great deal of trouble and it's much appreciated.
Meyrick - The NVR switch could well be worthwhile(believe I have one , somewhere). The need to reverse the motor is due to the Worden method of operation - the support table is adjustable for vertical angle but the horizontal angle is varied about the centre of the table so grinding would need to be carried out on both left and right edges of the wheel. The motor has to be reversed to avoid grinding on an upward moving periphery.
Les - Thank you for the offer of a 'phone chat on this. I'll let you have my email and tel No. but it seems to be a bit of an imposition, so please make sure that you are not out of pocket. I think I can make sense of your explanation of the switching sequence so I'll get checking with the AVO and hope it will clear even more of the fog
16/12/2009 22:37:15
Thank you Les.
I'm afraid that examining the 3 phase switch diagram made my brain hurt!! It makes it seem that the contacts are only capable of being 'made' or 'unmade' which doesn't gel with my image of a 3 way switch (Off, Forward and Reverse.) I have, no doubt, got it completely wrong. However, if you could point me towards appropriate AVO checks, I might be able to see a tree or two in the impenetrable forest
16/12/2009 14:31:01
Les, thank you again for your exceptional inputs. You're right about the confusion re. numbers and L1. L2etc.  
I'll have a closer look at those diagrams you posted and see if they make more sense. Switch was bought from a local retailer who had to do a real rummage search to find it!! It is labelled Kraus and Naimer, model number A401/GBA001. There are 10 connections, 1/2, 5/6 and 9/10 on one side of the barrel and 3/4 and 7/8 on the other side. These connections are separated i.e. 3 and 4 etc. are separated by the central 'spine' of that side of the barrel - similar for the rest. Nothing that I can see which would indicate internal shorts being present. Probably the best bet would be to get the AVO out and note the continuities for all selections - thay should keep me out of mischief for a while.
Re. attaching the image - yes, it IS different, not helped by the scanner/copier going 'on the blink' and having to be replaced (at 1A.M.!! )
Ian S C - thank you for the suggestion but the switch was a RECENT purchase, having lost the original which came with the kit in '95. If I was much. much tidier and didn't move locations so much, I might have managed to retain the original
16/12/2009 01:43:52

Thank you again, gentlemen- particularly for your patience. I have scanned the diagram sheet (hopefully, the relevant bit) and will attempt to attach it. I have tried to highlight the specific model area with a (badly drawn) box. If you feel that you can translate it into terms suitable for my limited expertise, I would be very grateful

Thread: Sandown Model Engineer Exhibition 2009
15/12/2009 12:06:51
It sounds as though the Sandown organisation has improved out of all recognition. I have, in the past made two attempts to attend. The first, from Oxford was totally ruined by the totally useless traffic 'plods' in Esher High St allowing outside lane queue jumpers to cut across the show traffic in the inside lane. Took well over an hour to get off the St. I tried again, two or three years later, travelling from Addlestone - absolute nightmare, such that when the 'plods' directed us AWAY from the entrance to go on to the roundabout and come back from the other way, I went home and vowed NEVER to try again. I now get my fix at Ally Pally, the only downside being the climb up the hill (probably good for me!) and my inate ability to get lost in the local streets!!
Thread: Perfecto shaper
15/12/2009 11:37:39
Thank you again, Les and Meyrick. I don't want to appear to spurn your efforts, which have been much appreciated, but I think that my best bet is going to be to obtain a replacement switch from Hemingway, since I have the instructions for that wiring with the Worden build. This present switch is, as you point out, obviously intended for 3 phase use. It can go into the "may come in useful later" box.  
Just to return to the original thread, is there anyone out there with any info on the Perfecto shaper, please?
14/12/2009 21:48:54
Thank you Martin.
Yes, correct - the original switch has 'gone walkabout' so I had to get a replacement - hence the problem. If all else fails I may have to go back to hemingway to look for a proper replacement. I bought the kit in '95 and have only just got around to completing it (or trying to!!
14/12/2009 21:44:04
Thank you Les and Meyrick.
Yes, single phase it is and three phase is witchcraft as far as I'm concerned!!
L1,L2 and L3 should have been obvious as 3 phase, in hindsight.
Unfortunately there is no 'book of words', just some 20 plus diagrams which give connections for all sorts of uses and various models but none of the motor connections are for this particular switch model number. Methinks it's back to the seller for more info.
14/12/2009 19:21:32
G'day all
I'm looking for any hints, tips, general or specific info on the Perfecto (powered) shaper. I have used a much larger version, years ago. in an evening class workshop but the Perfecto doesn't quite fit into that category!!
An additional, unrelated query - I wish to fit a reversing switch to a Worden grinder motor. The Worden build notes give good detail on the motor mods required and I now have a five core cable to wire it up. However the switch (Kraus and Naimer) wiring diagram is (to my untutored eyes) obscure - to say the least.!! My 'wiggly amps' expertise runs to standard 3 pin plugs with Live/ Neutral/ Earth annotations. The 'Connecting diagrams' for this switch offer six different versions (none for this model, specifically) and with connections marked, variously as L!, L2 , L3 and N. Is there a simple translation for these markings, please?
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