Member postings for Cornish Jack

Exquisite handiwork! Unfortunately, nowadays, if I had one, by the time I got it open I would have forgotten why I wanted to!!

rgds

Bill

After some 20 + years of use the clutch on my ML7 has 'given up'. I seem to remember that this has been covered in previous threads but can't locate it. I have the handbook with exploded diagram but memory says that there was a strong caveat about the internal spring when dismantling. Does anyone have experience of the process and/or advice before I venture into the innards?

rgds

Bill

Supplier A order was on a Thursday, early afternoon. Postage was within pennies. Taps supplied both times in a stout heavy duty jiffy bag, brass plate in a piece of bubble wrap in a thin plastic bag. The comparison was made because the purchases were, as near as dammit, concurrent, so differences were more striking.

rgds

Bill

A comparative demonstration of supplier service.

Supplier A - order accepted (for small piece of 3mm brass strip), despatched after 4 days, arrived after a further 5.

Supplier B - order accepted (for 2 x 2mm second taps), arrived just over 24 hours later. Order was incomplete, so phoned to advise and "will be in the post 1st class tonight", received next morning.

Total cost, in each case, within pennies.

Supplier B was Tracy Tools, been in business a long time and deservedly so. Supplier A ... how long will they stay in business??

rgds

Bill

Thank you, Jason - something else to tuck into memory!

rgds

Bill

Another cry for help, please!

The beam on Sophie is annotated with measurements I don't understandviz. "3H7 and 4H7". Could someone point out what is , probably, obvious?

rgds

Bill

Thank you Jason. The clamp and spacer idea is splendid .. and just what differentiates 'proper' engineers from the likes of yours truly - so obvious when pointed out but needs a 'tuned' thinking process!

rgds

Bill

Howi et al - plodding on with Sophie and need to attach the parts 43 (2off) to part 38, which has preformed 3mm rebates for the purpose. I am assuming that the options are soldering or super glue. My soldering talent is pretty awful, so I'm inclined to loctite or similar. The 43s provide support for part of the beam motion. Would Loctite be suitable? If soldering has to be the method, would paillons of cored electrical solder be suitable or what is recommended? Material for both is brass.

rgds

Bill

As another 'absolute beginner', (albeit for the last 20 + years or so!!), I think that I have 3 or 4 insert tool holders and inserts and I have NEVER had cause to use them. All of my (limited) turning has been done with either pre-ground or hand ground HSS tools. A recent purchase of the Eccentric 'Diamond' tool has been the (worthwhile) exception. Are insert tools necessarily a worthwhile investment for beginners? Personally, I rate them much the same as QCTPs but that may well be why I am still a beginner!!

rgds

Bill

Adam - Many thanks. All working as advertised now! Very much appreciate your patience in sorting this.

rgds

Bill

Adam

"I may be changing this in the future but still want to make it simple for people to use. "

I'm afraid that, at present, it has defeated all my efforts to logon! Undoubtedly down to incompetence on my part but, apart from your intervention email, I cannot get any reaction to my attempts to update/correct my logon. I understand your point about not needing to be a member to insert adverts but I'm finding the inability to logon a bit depressing!

rgds

Bill

Wouldn't imagine there would be any problem. Many years back at the ME exhibitions, Hegner used to demo their saws cutting intricate pieces in 3/8 brass so 1-2mm steel ought to be fine. Quality blades are importantthough. I bought (on recommendation) some Windjammer blades from the U.S. Pricy but good.

rgds

Bill

SWMBO also has a Panasonic (12 years plus) and has mostly good results but occasional, inexplicable oddities - lopsided or heavy texture. Uses Canadian Strong flour and sachet yeast and measures quantities very carefully. No clues, so far, as to the cause of the anomalies.

rgds

Bill

Re. silencers, when I was running the Boscombe Down Model Aircraft Club, one of our members (a test engineer) did a lot of experimental work on model silencers but without conclusive results. The use of tuned pipes is essential for such as Pylon racing and, at the Nationals at Barkston Heath, we lap-counters would be treated to the sound of these thoroughbred engines coming 'on the pipe' - spine tingling sound effects!! Still got a couple of unused pipes and manifolds in the shed - a bit past that side of model aircraft nowadays!!

rgds

Bill

Well, well, well, Blowlamp! ... who'd have thought it?

I seem to remember being taken to task for suggesting that Apple users were a little too enthusiastic in support of somewhat 'flaky' merchandise. Maybe so, maybe not . Maybe I just dislike the principle of unrestrained disdain for bamboozled customers! At 83 I possibly have insufficient experience of marketing practice to form an opinion but 'puter repair fellow doing the above video seems to know a thing or two ... but probably biased?

rgds

Bill

Thank you, Howi, that looks absolutely super! If mine turns out half as well, I shall be happy. Given your caveat on the cylinder, any tips?

rgds

Bill

Jason, Neil, Mick, thank you. That all makes sense and I'll go with the hold-down studs as well. Given the quality of the 'plans' and instructions, I may well return for further (much needed) assistance!

rgds

Bill

Apologies Jason et al - should have engaged brain re. pics. See below

As you will note, the 'instructions' have lost a little in translation ... almost a touch of the 'Stanley Unwins'!

The part 42 drawing shows the 4 corner holes as having the countersink facing upwards but I assume they are to enable the pillar to be fastened to the support block (??) so should face downwards - yes??

rgds

Bill

I have a lifelong inability to translate tech drawings/plans to the solid ... not ideal for model engineering!!

Presently dawdling through the Bengs beam engine Sophie and, having completed the beam support pillar, the base plate is next. It appears to be secured to the pillar from underneath by a 4mm countersunk screw and the plate secured to the wooden plinth by 4 countersunk screws. These latter appear on the plan to be upside down!! i.e. the countersink is between the plate and the wood, rather than on the top surface. How likely is a commercial company to make that sort of error? I am intending to go with commonsense rather than drawings unless somebody can advise otherwise!

rgds

Bill

"PS. No Yaks were harmed in the making of this photograph."

Probably just as well! ... after the one quite severely harmed at the Wanaka Air Display earlier this year.

**LINK**

As one contributor to the PPrune thread wrote, "Words fail me!

rgds

Bill