Here is a list of all the postings Cornish Jack has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 4 1/2 MT|
My Machinery's Handbook is a mere youngster at edition 11 for 1942. However I have an 'upmarket' Leather, Gilt, with Diary (1s.6d as against 1s.0d) copy of the "Practical Engineer" pocket book dated 1898!! In remarkably good nick for 112 years and full of fascinating steam related info. Nothing from Mr Morse, of course - he hadn't started tapering things then.
|Thread: Drill chuck keys|
Thank you all. Apologies for not following up on this but have been (unusually!!) busy.
Stub Mandrel - it seems to me that using one of the 'cheapo' 4-ways etc. will likely (from past experience) keep slipping out of engagement and require excessive force. May not damage the chuck but doesn't 'fit' the quality of the thing. This chuck has a built-in prism viewer for centring plus adjustment a la Griptru to suit it to different machines. I would like to think that the original maker had supplied it with a key to suit its potential accuracy rather than a 'bog standard' device. Apologies to John 'Bogs' - apropos which, his user name ought to be 'Dog's B*****ks' given the original derivation of the two ... "Boxed Standard" for normal quality and "Boxed de Luxe" (which became 'bastardised) for the best version
Will keep looking.
Thank you, DE. Could well do that but most of the DIY type keys are not exactly precision items!! The manufacturer of this one (MSE) have (I reckon) long since ceased trading.
Will keep searching.
Have recently bought an unusual drill chuck. It is very high quality and apparently unused but minus the key. Is there a standard set of key sizes/specs or how are they specified? I wouldn't like to use one of the 'universal' 4 way jobs on anything this well made.
|Thread: Machining In Your Workshop Special|
Ah ha!!, thank you, Engine builder
Foolishly thought that having a link to the thing on here would make access straightforward.
Methinks Alice was right!!
Splendid!! Have had a set of castings lurking in the 'to do' pile for some time.
HOWEVER ... Although I can log in here, when I try to order a copy the required log in FAILS with an 'incorrect password' box!! "Curiouser and curiouser ", said Alice.
|Thread: Finding Centre Height|
Simplest and fastest - pinch a small ruler between the tool point and the workpiece (circular) - if the tool is on centre height the rule will be vertical. Easy to see/check even slight angular discrepancies,easy to adjust.
How I hate those $£**^!? meerkats
|Thread: Metal compatability problems?|
Martin and Ian - Thank you for the explanation AND the possibilities of a potential new power source
I did a bit more searching and finally found a contact number for a manufacturer of these blinds. Apparently not exactly the same as mine but similar. Long story shortened - maybe a local rep will combine a beach afternoon with a looksee at the damage and advise - fingers tightly crossed. Even if that is successful, the foregoing hints and tips have been very helpful and illuminating.
Thank you all
Thank you Ian.
There would appear to be a difference of opinion 'tween yourself and Martin (see his last para above.) DOES the combination provoke corrosion or is it dependent on the method of joining?
"Confused of Norfolk"
Thank you Gordon and Martin.
Some progress made The manufacturers on the brochure are not, apparently, the makers of these particular shutters although the design is similar. Spare parts may be unavailable.
Re. the size/weight issue, the headbox was supported on two square section 'spigots' (for want of a better word) approximately 1" sides and 2 - 3 " long, which were part of the endplate castings. These were inserted into the tops of the two side guide rails for the shutters, these guide rails being attached to the wall with 4 off 8 gauge screws each. These have broken off. The whole lot, including roller shutter, motor, drive tube, headbox etc. was a fairly easy lift/carry - so maybe 30-40 lbs?
The intention, at the moment, would be to make up aluminium angle brackets, say 1/4" thick and 2" 'legs', 1" wide pop rivetted to the remains of the existing end plates and then attach these to the wall. The guide rails would no longer support the headbox. The end plates are about 6" square but the rivets would have to be positioned to avoid the roller blind when it's back in the headbox. Perhaps two brackets on each plate (top and bottom) for insurance?
If that works, several coats of quality paint, as Gordon suggests, might increase the life-span? Apologies for the ramble but I'm trying to test the possibilities on a knowlegeable audience, working from a personal knowledge base close to zero
Thank you, V8Eng
That would be a possibility if the brochure carried any contact info... it doesn't and the 'net doesn't offer any help either. The other problem is that window shutters are bespoke so the spares (if available) are likely to be as expensive as the original I would (obviously) prefer to re-attach the old shutter if it's possible and if it is likely to remain attached for a year or three. I would still like some reassurance from someone who understands metals that the aluminium brackets are feasible.
Sam, thank you for that but see the following.
As Confucius say, "When all else fails, read the %£**&! instructions!!" Having at last turned up the brochure, it states that the end plates of the headbox are, in fact, diecast aluminium rather than Mazak. So, presumably, although the same caveat re. dexion applies, ali fixing brackets would be OK? Does anyone know if differing types of aluminium would be problematical in contact or are there any precautions I should take in attaching the new brackets?
Any comments appreciated
Thank you Keith.
Casting parts is undoubtedly a good idea, unless, like me, your manual skills are a liability rather than an asset!! Re. living in the sea - well the next best (worst) thing - we live directly (10' approx) above the beach exposed to the standard NE'lies off the North Sea. Salt there is aplenty.
It would seem that Delrin is produced in various forms but NOT in rectangular blocks such as would most easily suit my needs. I have ordered some round offcuts and will machine them to a right angle bracket form. Having no idea of stress levels or how to calculate same, I hope they will be effective rather than elegant!!
Again, thanks for the input.
Thank you, Jeff - the Delrin method sounds ideal. The only problem I can see is identifying the right stuff! I have two or three pieces of "man-made" material but I'm not sufficiently 'au fait' to tell one from t'other Presumably there will be considerable differences in strengths to make one sort better than another. Probably a web search for suppliers of the real Delrin would be the best bet. Thanks again
I have to repair a roller blind shutter which has fractured the mounting lugs. The headbox ends and the mounting lugs APPEAR to be made of Mazak or similar and I cannot see any way of repairing the fractures. However I COULD pop rivet metal brackets (Dexion offcuts) onto the ends and screw mount these to the wall.
Question 1 - does Mazak react to close contact with steel?
Question 2 - Would the above combination be more likely to corrosion in a VERY salt laden atmosphere? This last is prompted by the state of the headbox ends after a year or so in situ - powdery surface deterioration.
Any suggestions/comments welcome.
|Thread: Worden T&C Grinder design|
Sid - a bit 'late to the party' on this one but I have the Mk1 kit and am VERY slowly trying to complete it. Can't help with the reasons for the pivot change but I have the original Hemingway drawings if there is anything on those which might help, please let me know.
|Thread: Shaper Tools|
May I jump aboard this thread with a repeat of a previous request for information on the Perfecto shaper, please? Last time I got lots of help with the second part of my query but nothing on the shaper. I'm fairly certain that I have seen at least one item on this particular model somewhere but cannot find it again. Thanks in advance,
|Thread: Sale Items|
Have just done as suggested and was able to both edit and, finally, delete my dummy ad.
Perhaps a note on the classified section suggesting action by the users might help.
Probably directed towards DC (Editor) or website supervisor.
Could the For Sale items be removed or marked as sold when such is the case, please? I note that there are items dated back to the Summer, still being listed and I am aware that at least one such has been sold. Perhaps, if the originators can't be bothered to notify the details, listings should be automatically limited to two weeks and require renotification if still available. Similar terms for the Wanted listings also. Any problems with this?
|Thread: Perfecto shaper|
Les and Meyrick - again many thanks. You have both gone to a great deal of trouble and it's much appreciated.
Meyrick - The NVR switch could well be worthwhile(believe I have one , somewhere). The need to reverse the motor is due to the Worden method of operation - the support table is adjustable for vertical angle but the horizontal angle is varied about the centre of the table so grinding would need to be carried out on both left and right edges of the wheel. The motor has to be reversed to avoid grinding on an upward moving periphery.
Les - Thank you for the offer of a 'phone chat on this. I'll let you have my email and tel No. but it seems to be a bit of an imposition, so please make sure that you are not out of pocket. I think I can make sense of your explanation of the switching sequence so I'll get checking with the AVO and hope it will clear even more of the fog
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