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Member postings for bricky

Here is a list of all the postings bricky has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Turning very thin bar
30/12/2011 18:02:59
hello Woolfie
No one has mentioned the use of a home made running down cutter. 
I have a selection that I have made and used over the years.To make one for your job use some 3/16" silver steel,drill No50 for the depth required ,then file four cutting faces ,stone to sharpness.Harden and temper job done.Hope this helps
30/12/2011 18:02:59
hello Woolfie
No one has mentioned the use of a home made running down cutter. 
I have a selection that I have made and used over the years.To make one for your job use some 3/16" silver steel,drill No50 for the depth required ,then file four cutting faces ,stone to sharpness.Harden and temper job done.Hope this helps
Thread: Linked drive belts from RDG
25/07/2011 17:04:13
I have a Myford Super Seven and had problems with vibration.I was advised by Myfords to fit a link belt as this would help,it worked fine, so I would fit one.
Thread: What Collet type, 5C or ER25
17/05/2011 21:53:46
I would have an auto lock chuck for the milling machine ,as I have had at critical moments downward creep of the cutter using ER32 collets disconcerting I can assure you.I have just bought a Posilock milling chuck
regards Frank
Thread: Amateurs
23/03/2011 20:25:04
Have you visited a model engineering exhibition.If you have I am surprised by your remarks,as the majority of the entrants are self taught and there workmanship is remarkable.Please enter your advice for those of us who benefit by the knowledge of a skilled man .
Thread: Bench Tidy
12/01/2011 19:22:45
The idea was taken from the office tidy.
To make ,obtain some lengths of waste pipe ,bath waste sink waste and overflow pipe.
Take a piece of board 4"by a length to suit your needs.Cut up your pipe to the lengths to suit your tools.Take a hot melt glue gun and glue around the base of the pipes and run glue between them,you now have a very useful storage stand and you can see the tools you require at a glance.Cheap and easy.Hope this helps someone.
Thread: Casting concrete beams
02/11/2010 17:37:28
Hello John.
The size of the beam and the length is a factor.
If you have access to a machine to lift the beams then they can be cast in shuttering on the ground.If not they will need to be cast in situ in a supported shutter. 
The mix for concrete for beams (shovels)10 gravel 5 Sharp sand 2 cement or if it is mixed ballast I use 7 ballast 1 cement.
The reinforcing bar needs 2 longitudal rods top and bottom with bar bent into a square at 300mm centres tied with wire to the 4 rods to form a cage.Keep the cage 25mm up from the bottom/side&top .Hire a vibrating poker to remove the air .Hope this helps
Thread: Poor surface finish using Myford
06/06/2010 17:17:41
Hi Steve.
I Have nothing to add from the previous advice except that if finances permit The Diamond Tool Holder as advertised by Eccentric Engineering is a brilliant tool.This is so easy to sharpen and to set to height and with the sharpening jig supplied to can,t fail to get a sharp tool.My work has improved greatly since i have been using one.Make sure it,s tight if taking interupted cuts.Hope this helps on top of all advice .
Thread: Milling Machine Information.
31/12/2009 14:13:35
Hello all.
Hoping that someone out there knows of this machine and can give me some information on it.I have a T&LM milling machine bench size and weighs about 1.5cwt ,I have found a lathe of this make on the Lathe website ,but there was no information on milling machines of this make.Can any one help please.
Thread: Flanging tender side panels
17/12/2009 22:30:54
Hello Nigel
My tender is of brass and I did have to anneal it several times.
I found that making the former square on the hornplate end and the top,these form a datum for setting out on a surface plate or glass.I made the former higher than the top of the tender and added  the amount onto all measurements.You can clamp sides and back onto the former for all the drilling operations.I have found this method to be satisfactory for me .
I hope this helps.
10/12/2009 21:16:43
Hello all.
Reference the flanging. I am building a 2" Gold Medal Burell and have just finished the flanging of the tender.I made a complete internal former of the tender from hardwood,from 1"* internal dimentions and glued together in a stack.The former was shaped and I had no difficulty in flanging,the sides first and then clamping them both in place I wrapped the back over them this worked a treat.Clamping the back in place I drilled for the rivets ,the whole can be held with bolts through the rivet holes after removing timber for the nuts.
All of the drilling was carried out with the tender on the former.
Thread: Novice beginner
16/09/2009 20:29:53
Francis Boyle.
Hello . I have been building my gold medal tractor for 25 years between running a business/ alterations to the house and other things that keep you from the workshop.
The drawings are very accurate and the castings also are good.It is a small engine in full size therefore it is like clockwork on the small items,but I am still enjoying every stage I complete .I made my own boiler and had no engineering experience previously,it is not to difficult.I sometimes wish I had gone for a 3" Burrell  as being a builder my fingers are a little large to get into the fiddley bits,but it is a beautiful engine when completed [when]
All the best Francis 
Thread: Help with piston rings.
15/08/2009 09:39:03
Thanks for that Jason,I will do as you say and get some graphite yarn.An answer from an experienced modeler is just what I needed.Thanks again Francis Boyle.
13/08/2009 20:09:04
Hello all 
I would appreciate some help.
I am building a 2"Burrell Gold Medal single cylinder tractor.The dimentions of the bore are 1.060" the gap in the piston is .125 radial and .125 axial.My need is the gap that I will need to leave for expansion in the piston ring when fitted. I have read the articles by Tubal Cain but I am not sure that I have fully understood the text.Could someone who dose give me a simple answer to my problem.  
Thank you in anticipation. Francis Boyle

Thread: lathe tool cutting oils
19/07/2009 17:43:45
I use cutting oil from J B supplies and dilute with water as recommended,this oil lasts and as my wife is in a studio above my workshop I was forced to get rid of the old suds.The new oil dose not have such a pungent smell.I apply the oil with a plastic oil can with a flexible spout from Halfords.The spout allows one to get close to the tool with no fear of damage to the can or oneself.Great for squerting up a bored hole.
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