Here is a list of all the postings bricky has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: face milling|
I have a arc euro three insert face mill cutter and using on a SX3 mill.I have been taking .5mm cuts and with new inserts and the head wags side to side at 400 rpm.Is the cut to deep and the feed to fast.I find that my flycutter at 75mm sweep at.5mm and 400rpm creates barely a murmer at the head ,can someone put me right.Feed for both was 1" per minute.
|Thread: Hacksaw blade orientation - your opinion please|
I have used japanese pull saws for years but they were soon used only for bench work as site work was to demanding on the upper arm muscle when cutting tmber.I could see the same being true on a large hacksaw but it would not pose a problem on a junior one.
|Thread: Pea shooters illegal|
Back in the mid 50's we used to buy dried peas from the seed merchants and take them to the Saturday flicks.The manager finally told us that they were banned as repeated firing at the film was damaging the screen.The Saturday morning flicks were 6d .
|Thread: STAR Hit & Miss Engine|
A superb looking engine Brian.
|Thread: Governor drive belt|
I used leather from an old handbag strap and if the leather is scarfed it glues flat and it can be cut very fine.
|Thread: Rotary Table Chucks|
Mine has a straight bore,so I made a fitting with a threaded nose for my myford.I found that the chuck was not supported enough as it did not sit on the table,I overcame this with a circular ring just a thou, or two above the end of the register of the adaptor and this made for a ridgid set up.I put a centre dot in the adaptor whilst being machined and this helps when centreing the RT.
|Thread: co-axial indicators|
The helpful response has made my mind up and I have just bought a new mitutoya lever dti.My old one was second hand bought from a retired turner which came with attachments that didn't fit.A pig in a poke,I felt so stupid that I hadn't tested it before buying that I didn't complain.
I have been considering buying one.I have been using a laser and sticky pin until now and would like opinions on the co-axial indicator before I buy.
|Thread: Workshop temperature - cold|
I have never heated my workshop as I am worried about temperature fluctuations .I use a dehumidifier overnight and I have never had any rust in the 38 years since I built it .I had been used to working on building sites for 50 years and when I first started we were traveling in open backed lorries with a wooden tilt on .The furthest we traveled like this was 40 miles one certantly did not look foreward to the journey home.They don't work in the frost now,we had metal buckets tied to the handrails with deisel in the bottom and a piece of sack and ignighted and these kept the frost above the work.
|Thread: graphite rod|
Thank you both for the information ,I now know what to order and do.
What grade of graphite is required to make a piston rod and piston for a Jan Ridders coffee cup engine.Also is it easy to machine and thread.Whiich supplier is the best to get it from.
|Thread: Jan Ridders coffee cup hot air engine|
Thanks for the advice given and I will continue to get it going, but it is doing my traps in.
I have been trying to make it work and remade parts and had to reseal the diplacer after the first failed attempt.I decided that I would bed the plastic ring on beds of mastic and it has sealed a treat.I found that the the engine would still not turn over but was making an attempt.I decided to leave it overnight and rebalance the flywheel.when I tried to spin it over it wouldn't budge.when I pulled the displacer piston rod up whith some force I found the piston rod was rusting I think.Does mastic cause this on steel and if so will a phospher bronze rod run OK in a phospher bronze bearing.And I thought this engine was going to be easy.
|Thread: How to be accurate!|
That is something I will use in future, thank you for the chart.
Mart ,could you explain to me how you achieve such a fine depth of cut.I can't get at a guess less less than .125mm on my Myford large bore and half a th on my old Myford.I don't have digital read outs so I assume you do and that is how you do it.
|Thread: "Clog" toolpost- replace?|
My toolpost is a after the Pratt-Bernerd QCTP which I thought had ridgeitity problems.Easy to make and I find it far quicker than my Dickson clone.The tool cartridges sit on the topslide with no overhang.The only drawback is one has to shim the tools to height,but once done it only needs checking after a resharpen.I can't show the image as the image occupies to much space on the post.So to view it is in my albums.
|Thread: Swamp Ash|
Strads have all been altered over the years and I think all have new necks to withstand the steel strings instead of the baroque gut strings.The wood of the early 16th-17th century came from a period of a mini ice age causing the wood to grow slowly and cannot be found today.So the quality of wood dose make a difference.The quality of the player makes any instrument sound better.
|Thread: Tanking slurry|
When building cellars,they were lined on the floor with asphalt and the walls rendered the same.The floor was coversed with concrete to hold the asphalt down and block walls were built against the asphalt to prevent water pressure pushing it of.I realise that is not a solution for you, but for future reference, for anyone using the cellar for a workshop.A watertight cellar guaranteed.
|Thread: Milling vice recommendation|
I have an SX3,and when I got it I needed a vice ,a friend gave me one to get me going but I needed something with more jaw opening.Having bought an old ME magazine at a show in which there was an article on a vice with a fixed jaw and a jaw that could be moved to the full length of the bed.I can't give details of the article and plan as I gave the magazine to a friend.I seldom have need to use my other vices.
|Thread: Ball bearings and friction.|
As Michael suggested knife edges on agates was used by Riefler on his regulators .I built one and a 30lb pendulem is driven by a 1.5lb weight.
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