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Member postings for Brian Baker 1

Here is a list of all the postings Brian Baker 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: TOOLING SURVEY
08/02/2018 07:57:54

Greetings Neil,

one thing that your survey does not do is ask the number of, say lathes, a person has.

the results may be of interest.

regards

Brian

Thread: Oh Ah!
18/01/2018 16:52:48

That's his lunch!

Thread: Lathe stand to suit an ML7
17/01/2018 08:35:39

Greetings,

I should have said that my Dexion/tray stand incorporates home made leveling mounting blocks.

Must take a picture.

Regards

Brian

16/01/2018 16:48:13

Greetings David,

I am still using the Dexion stand that came with the first Myford I purchased in 1977. It now has its forth different Myford on top. Just like Brian W, I used a wooden top, in the form of a kitchen worktop, again with the bolts recessed. I had made a large tray for the lathe to stand in. It has survived two workshop rebuildings and a house move

It has survived moving in the workshop, and a house move. I would not swop it for a manufacturers model, lots more storage for a start.

One day I will paint it.

Regards

Brian B

Edited By Brian Baker 1 on 16/01/2018 16:48:50

Edited By Brian Baker 1 on 16/01/2018 16:49:14

Thread: valve events
10/01/2018 17:18:02

Greetings, I have just taken out a set of PTFE piston valves from my A3, which was starting to "wheeze" quite badly after 8 years.

These were made as per the Geoff King method described in ME about 10 years ago. A spring pushes a tapered brass plug into the solid PTFE bobbin. They were badly scored, and I have for the moment replaced them with iron rings.

I think that if I used them again, I would use carbon filled PTFE.

Regards

Brian

Thread: MEW263 - Postal non or late delivery?
03/01/2018 12:32:56

Mine arrived E Norfolk today, good issue, well worth reading

Brian

Thread: Hemingway Westbury Hacksaw
29/12/2017 12:19:18

Greetings,

I made one of these saws in the early 80's, and it is still in regular use, although my son in Law "Borrowed" it.

It is a very useful machine, and I often sit & watch it cutting material, thinking, "my arm would be aching by now".

good luck with you build.

Regards

Brian

Thread: advice on what to build
06/08/2017 17:44:41

Greetings,

I am a bit reluctant to enter into this post, because it takes a long time to build a loco, and it is important to pick a design that you like & will enjoy working on for some time.

In 3.5 inch gauge, I would recommend Martin Evan's Stanier 2 6 4 tank rather than Rob Roy for several reasons, and yes, I have built 2 of both, so feel able to comment sensibly.

Firstly, the out side walsharts valve gear is much easier to make, set up and get working correctly, with all the bits easily accessable, whereas Rob Roy is inside, very fiddly, and needs a fair bit of dismantling to get it running sweetly.

Secondly, although a larger locomotive, there are several sub asemblies, such as pony truck, bogie, etc on which you can "cut your teeth" so to speak, and have the pleasure of a definite sub project finished.

Finally, in my opinion, the Stanier design runs better, notches up better, and will pull more passengers.

Yes it will be a little more expensive to buy the bits, and the boiler is somewhat more complicated, but with help from club members should be OK. It was the first boiler I ever built, and still have the first loco after 37 years, where as I sold both Rob Roys fairly soon after finishing them.

As a final argument for this design's consideration, I am about to start building a 71/4 doubled up Stanier 2-6-4 tank.

Most of all, study the designs, try to pick a modern one, but pick one you like.

Good luck with your build.

regards

Brian

 

Edited By Brian Baker 1 on 06/08/2017 17:51:28

Thread: Question about diaphragm material
17/04/2017 08:31:10

Greetings Jens,

I think that PTFE sheet can be purchased on Ebay, and I trust you can access that site.

Regards

Brian

Thread: Araldite to seal a tender tank
12/02/2017 08:11:15

Greetings,

There is a grade of epoxy specially made to bond copper brass and other metals, made by evo-stik.

It works best when the joint area is roughed up with coarse emery.

I have also used Gurit brand which is an epoxy used in boat building.

On one of my early locos, the soft soldered joint started to weep, and i used a small rotary wire brush to clean the area, epoxy applied, no problem.

Remember that copper metal catalyses the epoxy reaction which can then cure very quickly.

It is always best to keep the joint gap as small as possible.

regards

Brian

Thread: Query on Ajax locomotive and steaming ability
07/02/2017 08:05:28

Greetings,

I suggest that you never use an aluminium smokebox.

when wet, it starts reacting with the copper of the boiler, with which it is contact and starts electolytic corrosion with it, and possibly removing the silver from the boiler joints.

I suggest brass, copper or even steel rather than aluminium.

I have built Hercules, as a 0-6-0, which comes from the same family & it performs well.

regards

Brian

Thread: Westinghouse pump in 5" gauge
06/02/2017 17:42:46

tull1 001.jpgtull2 001.jpgHi John, sorry to take so long, but I had filed his letter in the wrong place 32 years ago, and it took time to find it.

It looks like his typewriter ribbon was on its way out, but I hope you can read this scan.

If not PM me & I will email it to you.

Not as much help as I remembered.

for your info, I have built 6 various pumps of this type, and the best operating one was based on a design in "live steam", I will try to find the date.

Regards

Briantull1 001.jpg

03/02/2017 12:19:23

Hi John, I finished it in 1986.

If I kept the details, it would be in the archives & need looking out.

I will have a look later today.

regards

BB

03/02/2017 08:00:54

Greetings, A long time ago, I built a Great Eastern Railway S56 Class "Buckjumper" in 5 inch gauge, which had a working Westinghouse pump, which was based on the Roy Amsbury design.

Roy was very helpful with details, and the pump worked fine, but tended to run a little fast.

I have to say that I think it used more steam than it put water in the boiler.

Regards

Brian2005_0226image0027.jpg

Thread: Pros and cons of 1,2 or 3 superheater tubes?
11/01/2017 07:57:19

Greetings, good luck with your Jubliee, I have built 2, plus I am looking at a bigger gauge one.

There is very little room in the smokebox, and I would always opt for the single flue, single radient stainless superheater option, since this is easiest to fit into the space available.

Forget the Thermic syphon idea, mainly for the reasons already given.

Speaking to Martin, this is the route that he suggested as being the best, and I have had great pleasure with this design. Mine is now laid up with a superheater leak, after 10 years hard running, including an IMLEC at Bristol, where I ran further than the 5 in gauge locos entrants.

Both my examples ran well and would notch right up.

regards

Brian

Thread: Steam Raising Blower
18/12/2016 07:42:04

Greetings, Doubletop is quite correct to say that curved trailing fan blades are more efficient & would be used in industry, but, please remember that this blower is designer to tempt locomotive purchasers into becoming builders, and the use of straight blades makes it easier to construct for a beginner.

The suggested motor seems fine, thanks for that, and as stated a speed control really helps to stop pulling the fire out in the early stages of steam raising.

regards

Brian

10/12/2016 11:43:47

Hi Micheal, that is a most beauttful loco that you have picked, and coming from a dyed in the wool LNER man,, thats saying something. I have seen several running. I had one my self, but my son in law pinched it.

Good luck with your build.

regards

Brian

10/12/2016 07:45:32

Greetings Julian, thank you for your comments.

In my experience, the compressed air system can use quite a lot of air, and just when you need the most, someone else opens up, thus reducing the supply, just what you need.

You are quite right about the plastic fan being next to useless, and my design was to provide a laser cut replacement for the fan & casing.

Above all, it was meant to be simple to construct, with a view to encouraging someone who has purchased a locomotive, to start making some thing simple, and thus beoming converted to this wonderful hobby of ours.

Regards

Brian

09/12/2016 17:28:34

hi Michael,

thanks for your interest in my fan design, and sorry to find the problem with sourcing a suitable motor.

I looked on Ebay and found about a dozen, when I built my blower back in June, but today not easy to find. The motor I used was normally used to operate a radiator cooling fan or car heater fan, made by smiths 7 fitted to many UK built cars in the 70s, 80s, & later.

However, ebay item 162175639784 may well be suitable, or, perhaps try a car breakers.

I will look into recommending a suitable motor, when I can find a reliable source.

hope this helps, and please let me know how you get on.

regards

Brian

Thread: boiler fittings
29/11/2016 07:43:20

Greetings,

loctite 572 is ideal for this application, and since it is made for low pressure (under 15 bar) pipe sealing, it would seem to have been made for us.

i have used it for 30+ years, never had a problem breaking open a joint, and never had PTFE tape clogging the working parts.

It is best described as "liquid PTFE".

try some!

Brian B

Edited By Brian Baker 1 on 29/11/2016 07:43:33

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