Here is a list of all the postings Brian Baker 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: plans for 7.25 gauge rocket|
Greetings, it would appear that the boiler Inspector mentioned by Jason moore 1 is acting quite correctly, and observing green book rule 3.9 (c).
Part (d) provides a method for him, via his club, to get his non standard design tested.
Re Rocket, I am sure that they would be a succesful design, and have seen one built by a Canvey club member, running well.
He used a scale covered coach to drive from, reaching over the tiny tender.
Did not Martin Evans produce a 1/8 scale drawing of Rocket, although not as a working model.
|Thread: Clarkson L1|
Hi del, Martin's comments are contained within his write up & description for the 3.5 in gauge loco.
I seem to remember he also designed a 5 in gauge boiler for the tapered boiler version of the loco
sadly, no book of this loco has ever been produced.
Hi Del, Matin Evans designed a Stanier 2-6-4 tank loco in 3.5 inch gauge, which could also be built as the Fowler version.
in that design, known as "Jubliee", write up he gave guidence on producing a 5" gauge version, and I think Malcolm High (Model Engineers Laser) does produce some parts for this loco.
Edited By Brian Baker 1 on 14/12/2012 17:37:32
|Thread: cutting brass sheet|
Greetings, I have tried a scroll saw, and it does work, but for rough cutting I suggest a bandsaw.
This cuts quickly and accurately, and with a decent blade will make all sorts of shapes easy to cut.
Mine handles 6 mm steel, cutting slowly, so brass is no problem.
I use a Clark 14 in throat 3 speed machine obtained from Machine Mart over 15 years ago, but they are still available.
|Thread: 7 1/4" Singapore|
Hi Dave, have you checked Station Road Steam?
I think they have a set of castings listed at the moment.
|Thread: GER T19 /Petrolea|
Precision Paints produce "Livery Data Sheets" which are a comprensive guide to corrct loco liveries.
they have one for GER Claud Hamilton, and you "Petrolea" would be almost the same.
The Great Eastern Railway Society can also provide a lot of information.
|Thread: Boiler Cleaning|
Hi Alan, what you are seeing is probably a thin layer of copper oxide, a black oxide of copper which forms when the copper in your boiler becomes warm. The same thing happen on the outside with age, the copper turns black.
Greetings Alan, I would suggest Citric Acid crystals for a copper boiler, flushed into the boiler with hot water through a safety valve bush, aggitated as much as practical, depending on size, allowed to cool, and well flushed with cold water.
About a heaped teaspoonful for a largest 3.5 in boiler, up to a heaped tablespoon for a large 7 1/4 gauge boiler.
Citric acid is safe to use & will not damage boiler fittings. Some people use drain cleaner etc, but its strong acid content can do damage, as well as being dangerous to use hot.
The residue can be flushed down the drain.
try a home brew shop for bulk supplies.
|Thread: citric Acid mix.|
Citric is a very good pickling agent for model engineers. it will keep for months, (in a closed container to stop evaporation) and when it is no longer required may be safely poured down a storm drain, although a high copper content may not be welcome in a sewage works, depending on the ammount being disposed of.
As you use the solution, it will become blue with dissolved copper, but will still work fine. When it stops working,, say overnight, then it should be disposed of. If used to clean steel, it may deposit the copper onto the work, but this is easily removed.
Home brew stores sell larger quanties, up to one kilogram, but you should be prepared to prove that you do not want to use it to "cut" (dilute) strange & illegal chemicals.
|Thread: steam turbine and generator|
Here is the photo
I have read this topic contributions with interest, and hope that contributors will be interested in a photo of the turbo generator that has been fitted to my 7 1/4 gauge tank loco for some 20 years.
It uses a turbine cut into an 1 1/8 in diameter p/bronze disc, using an endmill to produce half moon shaped recesses. The jet of steam enters the turbine wheel on one side, and exits via the long slot on the top. Steam consumption is unnoticed, and appears minimal.
I used an expensive second hand swiss DC motor, having tried various cheaper ones, whose commutators gave up. I tried making the wound coil alternator type, but found it very critical with the gap between the rotating magnet, and the stator coil. running at high speed, I found the ball races moving in the aluminium casing, and after a few runs, it started to jam, doubtless due to my poor buliding technics.
The current set up runs at about 5 to 10000 r/min, and generates enough power to light 3 X 3 volt filament lamps, well enough to light the cab, the pressure gauge, and the water gauge.
Edited By Brian Baker 1 on 20/01/2011 13:26:40
Edited By Katy Purvis on 01/06/2015 11:32:45
|Thread: citric acid for pickling|
Hi Dave, I have been using Citric acid as pickling solution for some time now, and it works as well as sulphuric acid, but avoids the burn holes in trousers & overalls.
I mix about a heaped table spoon in about 1 gallon of water, and add a little more as the solution ages with use.
Like all chemical processes, it works quicker if warmer, so putting parts in whilst warm speeds things up.
Citric Acid is quite safe to use, but should be washed off with copious ammounts of water if splashed in the eye, or other sensitive areas. I know we can drink it, but it becomes a good poison with copper salts disolved in it!
The home brew shop is the cheapest source of supply, much better than the little pots that chemists sell.
|Thread: Piston rings-cast iron|
Thought I had seen it somewhere!
Hi, can any one point me where to go for a description of the making of cast iron piston rings for a 7 1/4 loco.
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