Here is a list of all the postings Clive Foster has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Practical Electrical Engineer|
Newnes produced several magazine format series on technical subjects during the 1930's. they also did a rather nice set of UK road maps. There was an official binding service to convert your stack of magazines into a nicely produced hardback book. I have the map set in both unbound magazine and bound book form. Frankly the bound set is better produced than a goodly percentage of proper hardbacks.
Most were subsequently re-issued in multi-volume book format from approximately early 1940's to mid - late 1950's with various revisions to keep the contents semi up to date. Unlike Caxtons similar productions Newnes never bothered with copyright or publication dates so actual dating is hard. If you have a stack its usually possible to sort them into order. I've managed to collect most of the sets of interest to folk like us.
Newnes publications were mostly edited by Edward Molloy whilst Caxtons were done by Arthur W Judge. Both of whom must have been extremely industrious fellows. No fancy desktop computer word processors, just pen, paper and typewriter in those days.
|Thread: Turning long slender arbors|
Make an extended carrier for a small tool bit. Either a simple U slotted bar with small hex socket grub screws to hold a suitably small piece of square tool steel or bore a steel bar to take a round tool bit boring bar style albeit pointing out the end rather than sideways. Broken centre drills and small milling cutters make excellent round toolbits. Bit short when it comes to grinding but shaping them in the holder works just fine and gives you plenty to hold. Nice heatsink so they don't burn your fingers so fast too.
Arrange things so the toolbit angles up a little, Armstrong holder style, to give simple fine adjustment of tip height by sliding the bit in and out. Need to get it just so on this small work.
You may well find that making the bit holder wider so the tool is actually off to the side of the four way block gives more room around the tailstock and centre. No issues with stiffness as this is a light cut job. Plenty of room to make the holder far too strong, especially if cantilevered out the side.
I'd long considered making some U channel holders for small tool bits but it always seemed too much trouble . Then I lucked into a couple or four in a "can you use this rubbish" bonus box given to me by a non machining friend. First time I used one convinced me that not making some when I first thought one would be nice was, ahem, exceedingly stupid. Some round bit holders in there too but for larger sizes.
|Thread: Getting rid of the garage door...........|
Pete makes a good point about the advantages of a wall when it comes to shelving.
However when I looked into doing the garage into workshop conversion whilst retaining the hinge up and out Portaldoor system I planned to put the lathe across the door with its back to it. Ex-industrial machinery, which I intended to use, generally needs access to the back anyway for servicing and other purposes. Given forward planning its not difficult to arrange things so the machine can be swung out of the way if full width access is needed. Being easy to get at three sides really helps. The pillar drill was also going to be set up by the door, side on so if I needed to work on a really long piece of material it could stick out through the door, potentially right down the drive, and back into the 16 ft deep garage.
I wasn't going to put shelves up on that side but a lightweight set above the lathe to hold measuring gear et al would probably have happened later. Shelves and cabinets can be put on wheels for easy movement. Its not as if you will often need full width access via the big door but sensible to be prepared. My late mate Andy had his workshop in a double garage with two doors and parked wheel mounted sheves in front of one door. Which got used perhaps three time a year.
Concerning flooring I find the waterproof, sealed surface, chipboard underflooring sheets make excellent workshop floors. Much smoother than concrete, as durable as you will ever need, much less dusty and far kinder to anything dropped.
I'd think twice before bricking up the front door. Full car width and over 6 ft headroom is so nice when it comes to moving stuff in!
To my mind the ideal garage-to-workshop front door would be a heavily insulated version of the old Portaldoor fitted with suitable window(s). Those things were a single panel hanging from top mounted hinges with side struts pivoted about halfway up the door having wheels on the other end running along vertical channels fitted to the door frame. Cables ran from near the bottom of the side struts to a concrete block counter weight on one side making it generally easier to operate than most up and overs.
Theoretically the counterweight would hold it up but ours had a simple gravity catch on one side to ensure that strong winds couldn't bring it down on your head or car. Other side had a simple U pin arranged to go round the side strut and push into holes in the door frame for when you wanted both sides properly held up. When raised the door made a splendid cover for a sheltered "outside" working area ideal for dirty jobs. Our front and driveway being reasonably sheltered it had to be raining pretty hard before working underneath became uncomfortable.
I several times contemplated arranging ways of hanging a three sided tent from the door to make an enclosed work area but the need never became great enough. Easier to wait for break in the weather when I needed to work out there.
Ours lasted for over 40 years and was still in good order when I pulled it out as part of build over the garage extension work. The work left me with a 12 ft high by 15 ft wide access hole to the garage so I made myself an American style, horizontally hinged bifold door as there was nothing remotely suitable available commercially in the UK.
|Thread: Warrington Model Engineering Developments|
Not familiar with details of Myford construction but could the kit have included a replacement stud of smaller diameter allowing the 17 tooth gear to be fitted. Presumably with a sleeve to allow a standard gear to be used when needed.
|Thread: Lifting and moving a Downham Jig Borer|
#2 on lifting and moving the whole pallet with it still laid down. Pallets go fairly well on pipe rollers but won't slide along steel bars laid down railway fashion. In the past I always used rollers and dollies but, since being introduced to the use or steel bar rails I find them preferable. Especially with tall machines.
Dunno exactly how things are laid out at your place but I have a similar step into my workshop. Best option is to get the whole pallet in then stand the machine up on steel bar rails just in front of where it has to go then slide it back to place. Getting the rails out might be interesting if you haven't made provision for lifting the rear of the machine. If its back against a wall and your roof / wall attachments are strong I'd arrange a permanent lifter. Big ratchet straps can be repurposed for such duties and are well up to lifting the rear of such machines an inch or so for the rails to slide in. Usual crowbar and wedges at the front.
If you can't get the pallet in the workshop then block it up at the door so the to is a little higher than the floor. Make sure that the pallet can't move when uprighting. I've screwed them to the floor in the past.
Usual rule applies. Take it slow. Think breaks and cuppa breaks. Crib up as you go so it can't fall. Never forget that pallets are throw-aways. Cutting to aid movement and screwing blocks, cribs et al on is fine.
|Thread: Cast Iron For Boxford Change Gears?|
Delrin would be up to the job and far easier and cleaner to machine than cast iron. I guess £10 - £20 worth of 10 mm thick sheet would do. Fairly easy to obtain from E-Bay or other sources.
|Thread: Harrison L5 thread cutting|
I assume you have the standard L5 with three speed feed box rather than the full screwcutting version. If so the charts shown here :- **LINK**
are probably correct. Not sure what computer software and printing capabilities you have but it should be possible to work up your own without unreasonable effort. I find laminating ordinary printouts in the usual plastic pouches gives an adequately durable data panel. Replicating if it does get damaged is simple so long as you remeber to save the original. I have a cheap laminator from LiDL which does such jobs just fine.
Cant find a nice download picture of the metric conversion data but I do have a copy of the table from the manual. PM me if you'd like a basic copy.
|Thread: Smart & Brown Model A|
When it comes to moving machines both the Model A and 1024 can be shifted on pipe rollers or, often better, by sliding along steel rods laid rail fashion. Rail fashion rods tend to work much easier on a not quite flat concrete floor especially so if the final tamping has left slight ridges. If you have a really good surface such as proper floor coating / "paint", old fashioned metal loaded lino type "stuff' or the waterproof chipboard underflooring sheets that I have shallow roller devices work well. Basically up-engineered versions of the cheap ones sold for home owners moving cookers and other white goods.
The picture shows what I use with the 1024. Not sure how relevant the details will be to a Model A but it may spark some ideas. The roller frames were welded up from 1" square tubing off-cuts from the speed-frame system. Roller heads are about 4" square. The parts carrying the rollers were converted to U shape by milling off one side. Rollers are 1" nominal diameter nylon just under 1/2" wide so two fit inside each section of speed frame with thin separator collars about 1/2" diameter to reduce rubbing friction. Axles are 1/4" steel rod. Because the axle span inside the speed frame U sections is short the load capacity is "considerable". Lots of small rollers means the device can turn large radii without too much scuffing. Complex manoeuvres require a good deal of lifting and repositioning under the machine tho'.
The 1025 has 4 holes to take lifting rods. Old style 1" bore, thick wall, steel water pipe fits nicely. I modified some car jacks to fit securely in the pipes for easy lifting. Rover SD1 jack in the back corner permanently attached with the handle replaced by a welded on nut. Being tall it can be reached over the top of the lathe without serious contortions. Ford Capri one slides in on front tailstock end, Lancia HPE one at front headstock end and, I think, Citroen or Renault one fits in the back. Not sure about the last one as it was scavenged from a friends throw away pile.
1024 feet are shallow so a normal toe jack won't go under. I have used a click-click climb up then pole type farm jack in the aperture provided at the headstock end to get at the electrical relays after removing the door but this was less than stable. Done once only to slide 1/2" steel rod rails under and subsequently to remove them.
Hope this helps.
Edited By Clive Foster on 17/05/2019 21:12:13
Agree with Lathejack about the rock solidity, durability and high quality of the S&B Model A. If looking to buy one definitely go for a Mk 2 unless the price is very right on a Mk 1. Although the difference is, as Lathes.co.uk says, pretty much just a matter of tidying up details the end result is a far nicer machine to use.
Objectively the major disadvantages of the S&B A are the screwfitting spindle nose and small spindle bore. I'd also find it an irritating faff to change the belt over for high / low range speed shifting. Although, to be fair most jobs will be either high range or low range ones so in practice the belt won't need shifting as often as might be expected. Before buying one do verify that the belt is in good order as a replacement needs to be joined in situ. Not massively difficult but its one of those jobs that most folk need to do a couple or three times before you get the technique nailed down. Irritating on a job you will only do once.
VFD drive would get round the belt swopping business but the motor will almost certainly be hard wired 440 volts (220-380 was an option but rare in the UK) so its either get inside to alter the connections or fit a new motor. The S&B DNA demands heavy motor mount assemblies with very little access room. Pulling the motor for mods ready for VFD fitting will be a serious work out.
If properly lubricated and in good order the spindle bearings pretty much "last for ever". Which is good as you seriously do not want to faff about getting adjustment right or (quadruple eek!) pull the spindle.
The standard threads list is a little limited by some standards but the 27 provided should handle most things. It should have the excellent ball bearing intermediate gear assembly in the end gear train. Conversion between imperial and metric thread is generally easier than with many lathes beacuse the 127 conversion gear goes on the gearbox input shaft so a compound gear is not required for almost all metric pitches below 2 mm. Coarser than 2 mm needs a compound gear. Pretty sure fitting a compound gear involves removing the banjo to change the stud assembly to take plain bore gears, as per the 1024 in standard form, which is a PIA. I believe the gear specifications are the same as my 1024 so if you need more most can be got off the shelf from folk like HPC. Considerably cheaper than the usual hunt for factory specials.
Its heavy. Around 1,300 lb, just over half a ton, bare.
Bottom line is its a seriously good machine but I have to say that, were I in that market, I'd keep looking for a decent 1024 VSL which isn't much bigger overall but has usefully larger capacity. But I'm biased 'cos thats what I did with no regrets once we'd sweated, strained and cursed it into place. Twice the weight of the A!
I have a PDF version of the manual. PM me if you'd like to see it. But frankly there is very little of great import inside.
Edited By Clive Foster on 17/05/2019 13:31:20
Edited By Clive Foster on 17/05/2019 13:41:58
|Thread: fobco drill|
If yours doesn't have the internal collar clamp system and if there is enough metal around the the bolt holes to allow them to be enlarged a little I'd seriously consider retrofitting a collar style. Collars don't have to be very big to be extremely effective.
(OT example :- Back in working days we had some Thor labs 2" diameter vertical column style optical mounts in the lab using similar collars in brass to hold the attachments in place. Itty bitty 6 mm socket head clamp screws. Let the boss in for a play once and he, ignoring my advice, leant hard on the standard key. Major, major battle to get it off again. Once my temper had subsided I set up a demo getting him to balance on it via a right angle bracket after doing the screw up with a screwdriver handle type key, not the usual L thing. Much to his amazement it didn't move. Big lad too, 12 or 13 stone. )
I've heard say that brass on steel gives more grip than steel on steel.
Ah! What Ian says sounds familiar.
I now recall a friend saying many years ago that he found a similar problem on "something" caused by "someone" fitting oversize washers under either, or both, bolt head and nut so the two collars couldn't pull together and grip the shaft. Basically converting it from something that used two loose collars provide the grip, as Ian described, into a simple close up the slit system.
Dunno whether such an error is possible with the Fobco arrangement but if it is it's awfully easy for someone not up on the twin collar system to make. Hafta say I've personally never seen the two collar arrangement used with a slit in the housing. The half dozen ones I've encountered all sat in solid bores leaving me wondering how it all worked. I think frustration got the better of me the second or third time and the offending article dismantled for a look-see!
Pretty sure that the slit doesn't go right to the bottom on Fobco drills. For example see the lower picture of the restored one on this page :- **LINK**
Had similar issues with poor grip of cast iron ring clamps on high quality machines (albeit not drill tables) a couple of times before.
First one went away after disassembly, careful inspection and clean up. Can't recall exactly what the problem was but it may have been a raised thread stopping the slit closing. That one had a thread one side of the clamp not a simple through bolt. Dunno what the Fobco has.
Second one was a fracture in the clamp region. Nicely filled and painted over by previous owner! Welding sorted that one.
Time to take it apart and get the magnifying glass out. Fobco drills are generally considered very good so having the casting split for only part of its depth is unlikely to be the true cause. There are engineering reasons why it was done that way. Whether it actually makes any difference when compared to an equally well engineered fully split system I know not.
|Thread: Vanco linisher|
I too have found that the adhesive joint on belts doesn't hold up well in storage. About 5 years in my case. So buying a bargain batch rarely works. Especially if you have a higher quality (usually = silly expensive) machine that the usual commodity level variety as the belts seem to last much longer. I'm expecting about 5 times more belt life from my Morrisflex than I got from the Draper I used before. Expecting not knowing 'cos the apparently well worn belt it came with is still going strong despite my first assessment of it having only a few weeks left in it!
Problem with re-joining is getting the belts straight. Pal I gave the old Draper too took the spare belts, some broken, and tried to rejoin them. Not sure what he used but sticking appeared tob e no problem. Straight enough to run true being a different matter. Despite making what appeared to be a functional jig he decided that life was too short to sort things.
|Thread: Brazing torch|
I think we went round a similar question 4 or 5 years ago and concluded that you needed an adapter (+ hose?) to go between the patio gas bottle and standard torch regulator. Seems to me that the standard kit hoses are a bit on the short side for hooking up to a big bottle.
I imagine there ought to be an auto-shut off device somewhere in the line, or even at both ends, just in case things go seriously wrong like the hose being cut or a connector coming loose.
Various adapters listed by these folk, Leisureshop Direct, **LINK** which may or may not be directly useful but the link does give some idea of whats out there.
|Thread: Taper attachment|
Tangent tables are your friend when it comes to tapers.
Unfortunately funny numbers, whether degrees, distance per foot or both (eek) go together like ham and eggs when it comes to tapers.
Best way I've found to set things is to run a dial gauge against a bar in chuck or collet truly aligned to the bed using the bed-stop and an accurately measured distance piece to set the baseline. My parallels are 6" long so one makes a great distance piece when working in taper per foot. Setting up a second bed-stop on the other side of the saddle makes life even easier.
It helps to set your measurement baseline central, or at least close to it, on the taper turning device. That way you can get very close by simple measurement at one end of the travel set by the distance piece. So long as your set-up distance centre and taper turner pivot centres are decently close simply splitting the differences between indicator readings will bring you close enough for most jobs. Hafta work a little harder for Morse tapers tho'.
Once set-up you can cut your taper anywhere along the device but some lathes with telescopic cross slide screws have only limited travel and can run out of movement towards the end of the taper slide on larger angles. Found that out the hard way on my SouthBend Heavy 10.
|Thread: Which thread for T nuts|
Stick with M10 to hold the vice and, if you have or will have one, rotary table. Whilst on the subject of vices take a look at the recent thread on aligning vices and decide what method for rapid, adequately accurate alignment will suit you and your work best. For now. Of the quick and simple methods using M10 on special, fixed stud, Tee nuts would work with my pull back against the slots method. Going down to 8 mm would suit Vics version with an inverted Tee nut locating in the vice. Hafta say that if I were starting over I'd follow Vic version. Something better and more engineered comes later when you feel the need.
For general purpose Tee nuts on a machine of that size I'd go down to 6 mm, maybe even a few 4 mm ones too. The smaller sizes give you more options for passing studs through small jobs whlist still leaving room to machine things. Also let you use very short clamp bars. When I first had my little BCA the most used clamp bars were less than 2" long with integrated jack screws rather than the usual step blocks. Your relatively large slots take up a good deal of room on the small table. Consider making some clamp down straps with integrated 10 mm studs able to pass down into the slots. Often much more convenient than trying to bridge the slots so that ordinary step blocks can be used.
Something to consider in future is whether a grid of tapped holes plate will work better for you at holding things down than the Tee slot table. For example bought an aluminium breadboard with M6 tapped holes from Thor labs **LINK** to use with my, now long departed, BCA and found it well worth them money. Making would have been cheaper but I was relatively time poor and cash rich at the time. Tapping umpteen holes is boring too. Correct material for DIY would have been tooling plate which is relatlively expensive eating into DIY savings. If the size is right a double density version might be even better **LINK**. DIY means you can do what's perfect for you but it is more work.
|Thread: Fobco Star Modifications|
What you are proposing will end up being a pretty serious expenditure of effort and money. Unless you have suitable material stashed away a new column won't be cheap and making a new spindle will be a fairly serious undertaking. Need a decent size, accurate lathe to do the job easily. Then there is the wind-up mechanism mentioned by David which is pretty much essential for a floor mounted metal working drill. Partial offload of table plus tool weight by either a gas strut or simple hanging weight is OK on wood working drills but doesn't work that well with the generally heavier stuff involved in metalworking.
Had a Pollard Corona type primarily intended for woodworkers having a hanging counterweight which came close to OK. But the table ran on box ways and was very heavy giving less relative change in weight when work was mounted up. Box ways stopped the table twisting so heaving up didn't upset the alignment. I feel that on a round column you'd never get it straight again after moving up if you don't have mechanical lifter. Whether the common rack and handle type or Pollard style double screw-jack.
Finally, although the Star is a more than decent quality drill its the big 7-Eight and 10-Eight that are the standout floor standing versions. In my view about as good as a round column floor standing drill can go.
If the price is right buy it, use it for now and be prepared to trade up when the right machine comes along. Always a ready market for good quality bench drills at acceptable prices. Floor standing ones, especially hefty floor standing ones can be hard to shift. My Pollard 15AY cost me £100 plus collection which, objectively, was silly.
|Thread: Double ended milling cutters|
I have some brand name HSS and carbide double ended cutters so "known good" ones can be got.
That said I shan't be getting more unless the price is silly low. In practice the major issue is protecting the second end from inadvertent damage during insertion, removal and storage. Sometime it's hard enough to concentrate on one sharp end let alone two. Its a question of odds really. I know you, like me, will be careful but given that, depending on what you do, a cutter may go in and out of its holder perhaps a hundred (or more) times before becoming unacceptably blunt there is plenty of opportunity for the silly slip-up.
Although considered old hat now I like the Clarkson screw in type purely because there is so much less opportunity for the "Ooops, naughty words" moment. When you are unscrewing a cutter that is all you are doing. None of this business of releasing a collet with one hand and catching the cutter with the other. Native R8 on my Bridgeport being a particular pain with one arm reaching well up to get a hand on the drawbar spanner and the other waist high (ish) to catch the cutter. Most especially if its a big shank pulled up tight with a second heave!
(5 years on the air drawbar kit is still in the box)
Edited By Clive Foster on 09/05/2019 12:28:36
|Thread: Setting Milling-machine Vice|
Good one Vic. Been meaning to do something similar for mumble-mumble years but for now the "temporary expedient" of simply pulling the vice back or pushing it forwards so both holding down bolts are hard against the same side of the slots works well enough to similar thou and a (variable) bit over vice jaw width (4 inch) accuracy.
One of the times where retaining the rotary base mount helps. Going by the graduations the tee slot sides on mine are maybe 1/4° out of parallel. Having a Bridgeport means I've got enough vertical table to spindle clearance that the odd inch or so of rotary base thickness is irrelevant for all seen jobs.
Folk with less space should consider machining the slot sides dead true to the vice jaws. Obvious way is invert the vice and grab a stout bar on the machine table trammed dead true to the slots with the jaws. Withe everything made nicely snug sub-thou accuracy when just boring things down should be the norm. When I did something similar for another job I cut the slots a little wider for a snug fitting T washer rather than rely on just snugging up against the bolt. Worked well, maybe ± 1/4 thou accuracy as I recall things, but may have been a refinement too far.
Even after machining the slots you are probably never going to get things dead nuts on to a tenth thou or less so be sensible to make an additional bolt with a slightly reduced shank so you can pivot one side as suggested by Richard. If you make up a two way screw pusher thingy for controlled movement going from close to dead on will be very fast.
As always if something is going to be dead on every time its likely to be too tight to shift easily.
Its worth making decent arrangements to rapidly mount a lever type indicator for tramming purposes. My Bridgeport has a handy boss and clamp screw arrangement on the side so I med up a rod and tilting clamp affair to carry the indicator. Takes less than a minute to set up including the time taken to hook the indicator out of the cupboard.
Edited By Clive Foster on 05/05/2019 10:41:38
Edited By Clive Foster on 05/05/2019 10:42:07
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