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Member postings for Clive Foster

Here is a list of all the postings Clive Foster has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Danfoss Pressure Switch
16/04/2021 12:20:05

Raphael

The adapter sounds like a plan.

Mine has such an adapter fitted. Simple parallel threads with plumbers tape to seal. All seems to have worked satisfactorily as everything was "well used" grubby.

1/4" is the pipe size.

Different threaded fittings can be used on the same size pipe but you have to match thread types so BSP screws onto BSP, NPT onto NPT, UNF onto UNF et al. Its all a bit confusing until you realise that.

Clive

Edited By Clive Foster on 16/04/2021 12:24:55

Thread: New bench drill
16/04/2021 12:16:16

Jonathon

Ultimately the issue with all deep hole drilling is getting the swarf out.

Power feed with coolant is always better because the constant force and steady feed keeps the swarf flowing out in a pretty constant chip stream. Manual feed and pecking tends to break the chip so the gremlins can tie it up in a knot round the drill.

You can push a machine significantly beyond what its designed to do but care, concentration, knowing exactly what you are doing and what parts of the envelope you are pushing are essential.

Clive

Thread: Danfoss Pressure Switch
16/04/2021 12:05:54

Raphael

Found the specification for my Danfoss switch on line which says the connection is 1/4" DIN 8906.

**LINK** , https://store.danfoss.com/en/Climate-Solutions-for-cooling/Switches/Pressure-Switches/Pressure-switch%2C-KP5/p/060-117166 . Maybe yours is somewhere on same site.

A bit more searching confirmed that DIN 8906 is 7/16" - 20 with a 45° degree angle. Common on refrigeration fittings although they seem to specify the full 90° cone angle rather than the half angle 45° flare.

See table 3 here.

**LINK** , https://www.jiayuanfitting.com/info/din-8906-refrigeration-flare-type-fittings-44302832.html

Hopefully thats sorted it.

Clive

Edited By Clive Foster on 16/04/2021 12:06:26

16/04/2021 11:43:54

That one is 7/16 - 20 UNF thread for a flared fitting. Most likely SAE 45°. Parallel thread adapater with tape was used on whatever I salvaged mine from.

But need to be careful with SAE threaded flare fittings.

Brake pipes can use 7/16 - 24 tpi. JIC and SAE flare fittings are 7/16 - 20.

See

**LINK** , https://brennaninc.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/BrennanThreadChart.pdf

and

**LINK** , https://toplinemachinery.com/pages/jic-fittings-size-chart

Not forgetting that JIC uses a 37° flare whilst SAE is (supposed to be) 45°.

I've been known to be somewhat eloquent when running down those particualr rabbit holes whilst unbodging things!

Clive

Edited By Clive Foster on 16/04/2021 11:49:21

Edited By Clive Foster on 16/04/2021 11:49:43

Thread: New bench drill
16/04/2021 10:58:57

Jonathon

Not really man enough for such deep holes. In smaller diameters likely to bend the drill and at larger ones it just doesn't have the power or rigidity to do the job without multiple pecks and swarf clearance. Holes deeper than about 2/3 rds of the standard jobber drill flute length tend to be tricky.

Even my Pollard 15AY, which is a full blown industrial machine of pretty massive construction based on a square cast iron pillar, likes coolant for that sort of thing.

Realistically nothing with the standard sort of round column is going to be very happy on that sort of duty. When it comes to affordable machines you have to be realistic about the price / performance ratio.

Could be coaxed into doing a once in a blue moon job if you are careful.

A friend had a splendidly Victorian looking Denbiegh of considerable height driven via multiple flat belts that handled such things with casual aplomb using its self feed.

Clive

Thread: Danfoss Pressure Switch
16/04/2021 10:28:38

Quick rummage in the workshop turned up this Danfoss pressure switch which has a 7/16 x 20 UNF male connector

danfoss mew r.jpg

That is an industrial one made in Denmark. Lower end  Danfoss branded ones made in Poland or Far East tend to be BSP.

SIP and many of the other hobby compressors often use M12 x 1 for the regulator connections even when the switch is BSP.

Clive

Edited By Clive Foster on 16/04/2021 10:29:12

16/04/2021 09:50:52

Too small for 1/4 BSP.

Non BSP pipe / fluid / air connection threads are a major nightmare for " ..... can fixit" folk. All sorts of weird and wonderful stuff out there.

At 0.430 measured outside diameter I'd plump for 7/16 UNF, which is 20 TPI and not uncommon for such duties.

Another possibility is 12 mm x 1, 12 mm x 1.25 or 12 mm x 1.5. Over the years I've needed taps for all three!

As a side note 7/16 UNF is often found in the cast alloy handles of Far East import air tools with a male BSP parallel adapter screwed in. A right pain when someone wants you to fit a QD air connector directly to the handle after wrecking the original getting it out. Super Godzilla level threadlocker-sealant being the norm.

Clive

Thread: Was this embrittlement, or what?
14/04/2021 21:24:09

Thats interesting.

I have to weld some galvanised tube together. Light structural duties not fluid or gas transport. How much parent metal do I need to remove in the weld zone and how far back from the weld do I need to go to avoid zinc embrittlement?

I do know how to deal safely with zintec (coated steel) but there is lots less zinc involved in the coating and the technology is different. I do know how to set-up to deal with the zinc fumes too.

Not an ideal situation, long way from it in fact, but needs must.

Clive

Thread: Horizontal Bandsaw Problems - -Advice Please.
14/04/2021 13:35:39

Nigel

I should have the Alpine saw manual somewhere safe and could scan it if you'd like a copy. Don't recall seeing it this century but fairly sure I know where it ought to be.

I've fitted eccentric adjusters to all four of my guide wheels made to give the maximum possible throw without serious re-design. Looks like I needed all that throw to get to a workable set-up.

The standard two guide bearings fixed and two adjustable set-up is basically to accommodate variations in blade thickness. The fixed mounts are supposed to be on the inside to define the blade path. That design assumes the saw is made with sufficient accuracy to put the fixed bearings in the right place. Not so with mine. Looking at it now it appears that the constructional errors add up to cumulative errors in guide position approaching 1/4" out of line.

As I said earlier mine worked adequately as standard once a satisfactory adjustment had been achieved for several years before misbehaving. I can only assume that it took several years for wear and other strain related issues to accumulate to a level preventing the standard set up from coping with mis-alignment.

Clive

14/04/2021 10:41:06

Nigel

+1 for Martins verdict of mis-aligned guides.

Mine was made with similar errors but by re-working the adjuster eccentric sleeves I was able to find enough adjustment to get the blade run sufficiently close to tangential to both wheels for all to work. Not perfect because the slideways in which the guide carriers move aren't exactly in line in either plane so there is an error induced when shifting them to accommodate stock of different thickness.

I was able to get things closest to correct at maximum spacing.

Arguably the least worst option as the twisting forces imposed by the guides on the blade as it comes off the top wheel will be maximum at that setting. Moving the guide down for thinner stock lets the twist occur over a longer length of blade so twist forces should be less. Hopefully allowing the system to cope with more residual error.

Had I known about arranging things to let the blade to run true between the wheels first then setting the guides to the blades I'd have got it to OK a darn sight faster! Now I have a Bridgeport its tempting to take the main casting off and re-machine it so everything starts out aligned. Then make new guide carriers to suit.

Unlike Martins Nu-Tool version my Alpine, and presumably yours, has castings for all structural components.

Clive

Edited By Clive Foster on 14/04/2021 10:41:43

Thread: Anodising and Passivating
13/04/2021 22:29:03

Anodising is for aluminium and light alloys. It allows you to trap dye in the oxide layer to give a near permanent colour. It also improves surface hardness in greater of lesser degree depending on process details.

Hard Anodising, unsurprisingly, produces the hardest surface as that what its intended for. Colours tend not to be as deep or even. Often left natural.

Although ordinary anodising is usually done for decorative purposes some process / material combinations are surprisingly hard.

Passivating is usally associated with steel. Various simple chemical and electrochemical processes that make it much ahrder for rusting or other corrosion to get started. Many have a characteristic colour. Usually the process is identified by a trade name.

Clive

Thread: Horizontal Bandsaw Problems - -Advice Please.
13/04/2021 22:09:48

Nigel

Whatever the type, size or style of bandsaw it is fundamental to correct operation that the blade guides act only to bring the blade into the cutting plane and stabilise it to run true. The mechanical alignments must be such that the wheels are properly coplanar so that the blade itself runs true when free running or air cutting.

Something most easily seen when setting up a respectably sized industrial quality vertical bandsaw like my 14" throat Startrite.

The savage twist imparted to the blade by the guides on these small saws, and consequently high forces involved make it hard to separate out wheel alignment issues from guide ones. If there is sufficient travel on the adjuster it would be advisable to verify that the wheels are properly coplanar without the guides installed. Failing that the wire at half blade width technique advised by oldvelo must be used. Effective but, perhaps, not as intuitively obvious to the neophyte as folk experienced in its use may believe.

If you can use a blade sans guides to get things running true its relatively easy to fit the guides and adjust for minimum force and minimum deviation from the free running, wheel to wheel, condition.

Objectively these saws are just too small for the blade size. Not enough room for the essential twist without excessive forces.

The bigger versions have always been much less problematical. Even the early ones whose build quality was as price constrained as the 4 x 6 ones discussed here.

Clive

Thread: Oddball inverter
12/04/2021 10:21:28

Duncan

I got a couple of Mitsubishi inverters from Gavin Osman many years ago and have a vague memory of being told to be careful when adjusting parameters as it was quite easy to inadvertently put the beasts into a low power "test mode". Presumably provided so things could be made to go round without risking releasing magic smoke if jam ups occurred and other load related parameters were vastly in error.

Apparently the manual was "less than clear" about this. (Everything else too I reckoned. The manuals in the box were about half the size of the VFD itself.)

Clive

Thread: Loctite or Draper? Much difference?
12/04/2021 09:43:52
Posted by Versaboss on 11/04/2021 23:05:16:
Posted by Clive Foster on 11/04/2021 18:12:37:

On a side note I opened one of the inexpensive LiDL "Pattex" own brand (?) bottles of cyanoacrylate adhesive because the delivery tube appeared to have become blocked and found a tube of a good specification Loctite adhesive inside. The "bottle" turned out to be a well thought out tube holder with an effective squeezer mechanism.

Just to remember, if someone doesn't know: Pattex is a brand from Henkel, and Loctite is (today) also a brand from Henkel

Regards,
Hans

Thanks Hans. I certainly didn't know that.

What got me was that the Pattex version in its nice little squeezer "bottle" was about half the price of the same tube of Loctite from the usual sources.

Crazy world.

Clive

Thread: Winson Pug 0-4-0
12/04/2021 09:17:32

Larry

Prepare yourself for some quality computer time!

Plenty of ways to get valve gear wrong so its risky to assume that eccentric position is the only error.

Far better to sit down and measure valve movement so it can be plotted against eccentric rotation so you know whats going on. I'd be inclined to add little pictures of what the valve position looks like and how it relates to the ports at various positions too. Best to check what effects varying the cut off has too.

A boat load of boring work but, once done, you can check it against the books and/or a simulation program before coming back onto the forum armed with relevant questions hard rooted in reality. Hopefully by then you will also have some idea of what you might try to fix it so it will be much easier to follow expert guidance.

"Yep that should work well enough but while you are at it its just as easy to do .... which will turn out better overall." type advice is much easier to follow than painting by numbers in a conceptual vacuum.

Given the known variabilities of Winson kits it would be unwise to assume that a fellow suffers advice "I fixed mine by .... " is directly applicable to yours without thoroughly checking.

That said "I fixed mine by .... . Which wasn't too hard really once I'd figured it out." is a very encouraging sentiment when you fear you've ended up with an (expensive) un-fixable lemon. Even if you end up doing something different.

Best of luck.

Clive

Thread: Loctite or Draper? Much difference?
11/04/2021 18:12:37

In our world probably no practical difference.

At the higher end where specification details matter Loctite probably has the edge.

Have you checked Amazon prices. Draper and Loctite appear pretty similar in the UK.

On a side note I opened one of the inexpensive LiDL "Pattex" own brand (?) bottles of cyanoacrylate adhesive because the delivery tube appeared to have become blocked and found a tube of a good specification Loctite adhesive inside. The "bottle" turned out to be a well thought out tube holder with an effective squeezer mechanism.

My delivery tube wasn't blocked. The tube was completely empty.

Clive

Thread: Gear Change Wheels for a Smart & Brown Model A lathe
11/04/2021 17:02:01

DG

Don't know about the Model A but when wanting to complete the metric conversion change gear set for my 1024 VSLI was able to get suitable gears from HPC. The flat, PG, style were almost identical to the factory gears. Merely a few thou thinner.

Obviously I had to bore out the supplied centre hole to mach the lathe studs and cut a keyway.

Not cheap but overall of acceptable cost.

Clive

Thread: How do I remove this small bearing? And the one behind it.
09/04/2021 13:00:50

pgrbff

The rawlstud (concrete anchor) based extractors I make when needed don't need any space behind the bearing to work pretty well. Simply expanding into the inner bore of a ball race generally provides enough grip to pull the bearing out. Especially if an alloy intermediate sleeve is used.

If you can't get enough grip odds are the bearing was fitted with the housing significantly heated so pulling out cold will likely damage or scrap the housing.

Clive

09/04/2021 09:09:30

Another vote for a Rawlstud or similar concrete anchor as an expanding mandrel.

I have a small collection with intermediate aluminium sleeves kept for such purposes. For best grip it's important that the actual expander cone sits mostly inside the bearing. Any projection should be to the rear. Hence the collection of made for a job sleeves to get the fit right. Alloy sleeves, suitably slit for expansion, has a better grip on the inside of the bearing than the steel Rawlstud expander.

Using a stud type anchor lets you draw the bearing out with a second nut on the extended portion of the stud working through a tube and thick washer.

Well worth warming things up if its feels tighter than you'd like when trying to draw the bearing off. Especially if it is a bit skew-wiff.

Clive

Thread: Horizontal Bandsaw Problems - -Advice Please.
08/04/2021 14:22:38

Nigel

As I recall things design of the top wheel mount is such that it just hangs on the tension screw with a certain amount of play so the blade tension can pull the wheels into alignment.

The keep plate at the back has a tilt adjustment so the wheel axles can be made to point in the same direction.

The blade tension applies inside the saw some distance away from the keep plate so when all is copacetic the blade tension pulls the wheel assembly into the saw until the keep plate sits hard against the casting. Although there are no properly positive fixings things ought to be pretty stable.

Effectively the blade tension does all the work. Simple, cheap and no accurate machining needed but the blade tension line needs to be correct. Darned if I can recall whether there is any mechanism to vary the top wheel position relative to the back of the main casting. Have a feeling I ended up doing "something" in that area.

Clive

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