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Member postings for Paul White 3

Here is a list of all the postings Paul White 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: dividing head /indexing
18/11/2016 15:18:32

Muzzer, thanks for response. The use of the device is to provide input to stepper driver, what John Haine described as, cheap as chips.

The only schematic I have is from the MEW article. I'm not sure of the protocol of posting it here, I could E-Mail

a copy if you leave me a message with your address.


18/11/2016 14:02:34

Muzzer, thanks for your posting. The 80's , oh yes I remember them well (cue for a song).

I expected things to have moved on in the world of electronics since 2005 and the circuit function requirement is simple. My ability in this area is monkey see monkey do.

Your suggested replacement is noted thanks. How about 2N7000?

regards Paul.

18/11/2016 12:57:52

John, many many thanks for a most helpful and informative posting.

Your comment on the VN10 is spot on, the purpose of its inclusion was lack of output to the stepper driver when

Brian Thompson first built. the unit.

The explanation of PLL you gave is most enlightening and produces an alternative for the one part of the project that raised concern in my mind. The concept is clear to me but I lack the know how to set up the circuitry.

One of Steve Wards objectives in his divider design was for a self contained small unit and that is what I wanted with the hobbing device.

thanks for your help. Paul.

17/11/2016 12:11:36

John S. Thanks for your posting and direction. The thread is interesting in part because it answers a question

raised when I read recently that your black box failed and you went Linux way. Now I know the story.

Again many thanks.


17/11/2016 11:09:03

John, thanks for your reply. I must again agree that Steve Ward contributed greatly with his design, and help he gave to others trying to build it.

The article by Brian Thompson was in MEW no.108 Aug 2005. The ic's -HEF4059, VN10LM, are the problem units.

Your comment on encoder and alternative is very interesting and timely as I'm at the procurement stage for this section of the unit. I am not familiar with, phase locked loop, but if it simplifies the project i'd like to be.

Mark Smith, my interest in the electronic approach is because I built the mechanical set up and quickly tired of the

set up times when the unit was applied for 1 off hobby use.

Regards Paul.

16/11/2016 13:27:06
Posted by Bazyle on 16/11/2016 13:19:34:

Since electronics will last about 5 years before going phut that will give you time to make a proper mechanical replacement.......

hello, If 5 years is the working time forecast, that will be long after I go phut and if not could still be long after me.

regards Paul

16/11/2016 12:24:33
Posted by John Haine on 15/11/2016 16:09:08:

As this is 2016, I suggest you consider using a stepper motor to drive the worm driven by one of Mike (?) Ward's excellent controllers. Then you don't need to worry about division plates, prime factors, and all that stuff, just type in how many divisions you want and away you go. JS' approach using a commercial gearbox would be quick. Ihave converted a Myford DH and wouldn't consider going back to plates'n'oles.

+1 to this thinking, so much so that the Brian Thompson article in MEW" gear hobbing without change gears" is for me the next step. Problem, the IC's are now marked as obsolete. Any electronic wiz out there have any comment?

I'm sure John, you remembered Steve Ward.

Thanks Paul.

Thread: 5 speed toothed belt drives
21/10/2012 13:25:00

John A.S.

I have a centec 2a which has the same boby and drives as the 2B. I also suffered the same warming up experience as you describe. I came to the conclusion that the primary (motor to machine ) belt and the machine gears plus the lub oils caused the slow speed up particularly in winter when the motor cut out could be activated.

My solution was the fitting a seperate motor for the vertical head using a poly vee belt plus an inverter, I have not looked back. See my post under newton tesler title last year.

Regards Paul.

Thread: Clarkson Stirling Single 3.5"
05/05/2012 15:43:50


The boiler on Clarksons 3.5" stirling does as Bruce suggested need to be locally "adjusted".

I found this as being required when I built my Stirling but the minimum side play on the drive axle makes the adjustment required small,

Good luck on the build it is a most rewarding model to drive.


Thread: volkswagon engine
23/02/2012 10:27:49

Roy, PM sent . Thanks


22/02/2012 15:52:06

While riffling through old model engineer mags, as one does in the chilly evenings, I came across the above titled article by Brian Perkins. and was struck by the possability of this as a project (for me).

Although I thought I had a complete set of issues for the past 35 years I have been unable to find part 3 of the description for this article. The ME date for the article was April1, 2005.

Could anybody provide a scan of the model volkswagon article please?

Many thanks


Thread: Newton Tesla
27/08/2011 17:31:40
John, I have at last managed to load my photo's.

 the photo also shows the lifting block which is the extended overarm. This allows
use of the machine in horizontal mode without taking off the very heavy vertical head
as previously mentioned a satisfying mod.

Edited By Paul White 3 on 27/08/2011 17:38:27

23/08/2011 14:01:40
Hello, I have fitted an inverter to my centec 2. The method I used was to mount a seperate motor to the head. This has resulted in a very controlable quiet machine
\also fitted to machine is an extended overarm which gives the machine a bigger
I have taken some photo's but have not been able to load them, sorry.
The process for loading the photo's on the site is very poor in my opinion.
Thread: centec 2b
10/12/2010 15:29:40
hello Duncan,  I think the 2B head is the same as the 2A.  If this is the case then the fast feed lever is mounted on the spindle by the nut and a taper.  You cannot remove the spindle as the other end to the lever ,is fitted with a key and the slow feed wormwheel.  that is to say you can remove it but will loose  the control of the head downfeed!
Regards Paul.
Thread: Stringer EW lathe
08/12/2010 10:50:49
hello from nippy berkshire,
I have owned an EW lathe for the past 60 years and enjoyed its possession. It was a
toolmakers design with many interesting features.
In 1957 and 58 a number of mods and articles appeared in ME by the hand of Martin cleeve, it would be worth your while getting hold of these.
One item not covered ( in my recollection) is a clutch in the drive chain. I made such a
fitting for my machine, it is without a doubt an absolute must , making for a much greater
enjoyment  when using the machine . I must admit to an obsession with regard to the
fitment of a clutch on ALL lathes (is that a shout?).
Thread: Stuck chuck
05/11/2010 15:06:46
hello Howard,
           I've been there, after a good time thinking I realised that the backplate is held to the front section by the adjusting screws (3off).They must be removed before attempting a separation  of the chuck halves.
Good luck  regards.
Thread: Goodwin Castings
12/10/2010 17:53:25
Stirling Single, GWRdriver
   Regading your coments on cylinder castings for the stirling single in 31/2 gauge. I have built the Clarkson version of sterling and Conway. Having just had a look, the conway castings are considerably longer. This is bad news because the pony truck splashers on the sterling  interfere with front of the cylinder with the shorter correct castings. On my loco anyway.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
Thread: powerfile bands
27/06/2010 11:09:46
Alan , thanks for your further comments.
Your suggestion of using EVOSTIK chimes with Keith Longs, this I will try.
I'll post result in a number of days (procure and mature time).
Regards Paul.
26/06/2010 17:38:43
                     Thanks for your comments.
 Chris-, I  am also a cheapskate having   performed most of the actions you describe, and under similar  circumstances.
I have not tried superglue,my attempts were with Araldite but all on lap joints.
 Alan- I have a Makita belt file and also have had no problem with belt failures, having just checked all the belts are lap jointed. The B&D belts are both lap jointed and taped. All the failed belts are taped joints also the grit is coarse (40).  The lesson I think is that coarse grit should be lap jointed. 
A final thought , I would like to have caused the failure by overloading a worn belt!
The remaining question is; any thoughts out there for an adhesive to repair the failed belts or a source of the tape.
regards Paul
26/06/2010 14:26:10
Keith,  Many thanks for your response.  I should have stated in my original post that the belts are joined by an adhesive strip across the back of the splice. This form of construction does not seem to define a direction of run. The join appears to be held by some form of heat activated adhesive.
I will try the suggested internet  search and if I find a solution (ha-ha) i will post it, I can't believe that I am the only person suffering this problem.
Again thanks Paul.
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