Here is a list of all the postings Geoff Theasby has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Granite Surface plates|
I bought a "granite" placemat ( a packof two in fact) from Tesco for £5.98.
The surface seems superb, according to my straightedge.
I am doubtful, however as to to its "granite" constitiuency, since it is limited to a temperature of 90 degrees C, whereas granite melts at about 1300 degrees C.
Possibly it is of a granite dust/resin mixture.
No matter, we require its surface properties, not its heatproof ability.
SWMBO does not require the extra placemat, so I have two surface plates!
|Thread: BOILER DRILLING & TAPPING|
My Dad taught me how to drill a car inlet manifold in situ, in order to fit a vacuum gauge.
Basically, don't let the drill break through more than a minimum amount and grease the tap.
|Thread: BA Threads or Metric Threads?|
BA threads aren't obsolete, neither are Imperial threads, or ME threads, come to that. As in full-sized practice, they remain in use for repairs and renovations, and people like Stuart still use them even in new kits.
The recommendation is that we use Metric for anything newly designed. However, we shall be able to buy BA (which is metric based) and Imperial for years to come. Imperial sized screws can still be bought from industrial suppliers, even Whitworth threads.
I, too, am new to model engineering, although having worked in industry for many years, and my first lathe is a Unimat 3, built to metric standards, so I have concentrated on metric taps and dies.
|Thread: lathe tool cutting oils|
I am glad to see someone else using 3-in-1.
I use nothing else, and it has always worked well, dipensed from a drip can.
I will bear in mind WD-40.
|Thread: Hot air and stirling engines|
Thanks for the suggestions about Stirling engines.
I will try running the kit built one for a while from one of my Stuart engines running on air from my compressor. That should look suitably Heath Robinson!
I built two Stirling engines, one from scratch and one from a pre-machined kit.
The kit one runs a little longer when fired up, as opposed to being spun with a finger, but I can't work out where the problem is.
|Thread: New Subscription Freebies|
I bought some old ME magazines at Doncaster market, dating from 1960/61.
Very interesting, with adverts for cigarettes, hacksaw blades and articles for quite a lot of ship models.
|Thread: Propane gas burners|
The answer lies in the jet size, I think. The burner itself is just a flame diffuser.
Try a propane gas supplier, or website. Different gases use different jet sizes.
There is also the question of how much air to mix with the gas.
The Stuart catalogue lists gas jets and burners, but for a butane/propane mix only.
|Thread: Material Suppliers|
I have obtained brass and aluminium from a couple of non-ferrous scrapyards in Attercliffe, Sheffield. I can't remember their names, but the Yellow Pages should show them.
Edited By Geoff Theasby on 11/06/2009 16:04:11
|Thread: First Project|
I also am new to ME, having bought a Unimat 3 from eBay a couple of years ago, and slowly built up a workshop and accessories.
I bought s/h a Staurt beam engine, and am building a governor for it from the raw materials as supplied by Stuart. I am learning fast, with a few false starts and mistakes.
I then intend to build a pair of dividers and a vertical slide from scratch.
I make my own Antex soldering iron bits from copper rod.
This is great fun!
|Thread: hot air fan|
I have built two hot air engines, one from old tin cans from the internet, and one from a machined kit. Neither worked.
I know that friction has to be kept to an absolute minimum, and that good balance is important. I will keep trying.
I have seen a Ky-Ko fan operating at the Clumber Park steam fair. I KNOW it can be done! Blame my ham-fistedness.
|Thread: Granite Surface plates|
I have a piece of marble intended for a kitchen worktop. It is too big to use as a surface plate, how can I cut it down to, say, about 1 foot square. It is about three quarters of an inch thick.
I have tried cutting along a line with series of cuts from a cold chisel, but although bits chip off, it shows no sign of breaking.
The easy way is to buy a trivet from Tesco, as mentioned above, but I hate to see a bit of useful material go to waste.
|Thread: Shims for packing up cutting tools|
I, too, use an old feeler gauge, plus cut up aluminium beer cans, which are about 3 thou.
I plan to use unetched double sided printed circuit board (from Maplin's, about 62 thou) and unembossed portions of used credit cards (about 32 thou)
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