Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Long BA Screws|
Ah - Ian SC beat me to it really - although my solution would have been a custom made nut with the countersink machined on it - and then threaded rod used as a stud.
For larger 'countersunk' holes (where a long cheesehead type might be required) - a slotted circular nut is used as a similar alternative with a stud - but requires a special screwdriver to tighten it up.
|Thread: Stringer EW lathe|
Whilst I'm here....work on my hand pump is progressing well.
Having managed to drill the first valve body off centre - I was a lot more careful the second time around. I'm sure my approach is not new - but it might be useful to some so I'll just run through the essentials.
My new bit of brass (fished from the 'scrap' bin) had a raised 'rim' at one end. My initial thought was to turn this down to the main diameter but on thinking about it, I decided it might have some use. I therefore chucked it (as level as I could with a little packing) in the 4 jaw - and turned down a 'flat' on the raised part of the first side - just enough to bring it level with the main body. I then turned the part over, hoping to use the 'flat' to help hold the body steady (as it had appeared to "roll" slightly the first time). No, I don't know how or why either - but it did!
I then did the same again on the second side but this time went 2 thou futher in to make a very slight flat on the whole body. If you look at the photo you will see that the flat is wider at one end, suggesting that the part moved up slightly during this process. Fortunately this didn't matter too much, although obviuosly the thinner the flat the better.
I then unscrewed the 4 jaw and marked the flat the required distance from the end and then using my trusty optical centre punch, placed a punch 'mark' in the middle of the flat/scribed mark.
Returning the chuck to the EW it was then very simple to make sure the part was bang on centre using two MT1 centres as shown above. It only needed a few slight tweeks to get it centred to 1 or 2 thou - more than good enough for my needs. I then drilled out to 8mm and bored the blind hole to final size but mostly to get the hole's bottom flat. All went well this time.
So the clear morale is that with a bit more care and thought, you can get a much better result!
It also leads to much more Happiness (as opposed to much more Annoyance, as per the first time around!)
I've sent you 'select few' copies of the JJ Constable EW Slow Feed article, as I've finally had the time to dig it out myself and read it. You will be pleased to hear that "the lathe maker's claims are fully justified" in Mr Constables opinion, something I think we would all be happy to agree with.
Hallo V8eng - thank you for this and you are correct with regards to models available.
One of our group (sorry I cannot recall who off the top of my head) distributed some Stringer EW sales literature and invoices sent to a relative to our group that dated from May 1953.
The "Plain" EW A Model ( 10" bed ) lathe cost £13-4-0 back then.
The Model B added the leadscrew at a toal cost of £14-17-0
The Model C added backgear at a total cost of £17-1-0
The Model D added a set of changewheels at total cost of £19-16-0
It was however simple to upgrade to any model by simply purchasing the required parts. The gap-bed was an option and cost 8/3p
It might interest some and help to put these prices into some perspective, if I add that a 4" 4-Jaw Burned chuck was listed at £2-16-0 - a pretty expensive item in 1953 but one that sounds quite reasonable these days!
Edited By IanT on 11/12/2012 19:54:22
|Thread: BV25 Lathe?|
So no one seems to be selling an equivalent lathe in the UK currently then?
|Thread: J B WELD|
My local hardware store stocks it Dougie - but it's very unlikely you live anywhere near Wokingham.
However, I do try to buy stuff there whenever possible, simply becuase he stocks stuff I can't normally get at the DIY stores (JB Weld, Gorilla Glue etc). It might be strange to say this - but in some ways he has a much wider/better range of stuff than they do (maybe I mean its a bit more specilaist?) and is also pretty knowledable about it too. He clearly talks to his other customers about what works best for them.
It may be a bit more expensive, but I feel it's worth my while to try and help him stay in business. My purchases are generally small in nature and his prices not so bad and sometimes (to my surprise) he's cheaper than our local Homebase.
Of course you can probably also get anything you want mail order on the InterWebby these days - but then when you want something to finish that urgent plumbing job for your Manager - that might not be quite as handy.
So give your local hardware shop a call Dougie!
|Thread: Stringer EW lathe|
Hi Alan - that sounds Ok. Please keep me informed.
Fortunately my scrap box yielded up a suitable lump of brass - a bit wider than the first one but good enough. It's currently being faced at both ends and brought to length. Last time I did the easy bits first, leaving the hardest operation till last. This time I will do the hardest bit first and hopefully not screw up the "easy" bits (assuming sucess with the first part) afterwards!
Bill - thank you for thinking to let us know about the Martin Cleeve articles - but I am afraid we "EW'ers" are somewhat ahead of you here. Copies of those articles (much of which would be useful to other users of smaller lathes btw) have already been distributed around our somewhat select (e.g. small) EW Owners Club!
|Thread: BV25 Lathe?|
I cannot find a BV lathe on the Axminster site Jason - they seem to be selling Sieg lathes (any connection?).
Warco do a range of WM250 lathes - are these also similar to the one described I wonder?
I've just received my latest MEW (198) - and there is an article by Alan James Aldridge in there about his new (ish) BV25 lathe. I was curioius as to who distributed this lathe in the UK (and what it might cost etc) - but I have not managed to find it after a quick (UK only) Google.
Any idea who sells this is in the UK - or alternatively - what an equivalent model might be from a UK supplier? I'm assuming someone is probably selling exactly the same machine under a different badge/model number.
Regards, Ian T
Edited By IanT on 10/12/2012 14:14:10
Edited By IanT on 10/12/2012 14:14:56
|Thread: Stringer EW lathe|
That offer of a counter-shaft might be interesting, mine works but is not exactly pretty! Perhaps you could PM me with the likely costs (and what sort of bearings you intend to use?)
In the meantime - all was going well yesterday until I rushed things!
I was busy boring some blind holes 8.8mm x11mm deep (and only had 8mm drill) - and will admit to a 'bodge' that probably will be frowned upon by many. I was using an old Eclipse boring bar that has been well ground down to get into smaller holes and to get the depth right - I used that clamp again but directly on the tool. I could then just touch the tool to the face and then bore in till the clamp also touched the face (which you can hear touch). The clamp was positioned using a vernier gauge for depth. Anyway, it all worked well, so happy - I moved on to boring a flat on the side of the (round) valve assembly.
Obviously I must have been flushed with success from my previous work - as I managed to well and truely screw this up. I didn't get the item completely centred and it also must have moved in the process (even though it was in the 4 jaw). It might be useable (just) but I think I will have to re-do it again from scratch, as it offends me!
It was the last operation on the part too. A few choice words were said in private last night!!
So back down to that frosty Shed later to see if I have another suitable bit of brass in the scrap box.
|Thread: advice re scroll saw|
I purchased a chinese scroll saw recently - not unlike the one mentioned above.
I also have a 'vibra' saw (a simple sprung arm type of scroll saw) which I've had for many years and which works very well on small ply parts where I need to cut out shapes/holes (windows etc).. It's more akin to a low-powered fret saw - you can put your finger on the blade without harm.
So why the new saw? Well, I want to cut brass sheet with it - and therefore needed a) a lower cutting speed (mine has variable speeds) b) to be able to use a heavier (metal) cutting blade and choice of blade holder types and c) the ability to modify the machine over time to meet my needs - so a solid base to work with. The machine has a cast iron table which I think is essential when using these machines for metal work (as opposed to wood/ply - where aluminium is OK). My 'Vibra' BTW is all plastic construction and has worn suprisingly well but then I haven't abused it!
I generally do beleive in buying the best you can afford in tools but a Hegner would be too much for my pocket - given this is something I will use only occassionally. If I was a full time "scroller" then this would be different - but my money is mainly in metal mangling machinery!
|Thread: Stringer EW lathe|
PS Sorry - that clamp is put on the back of the cross-slide of course - not the top-slide!
However some means of fitting a simple 'stop' on (or that works with) the top-slide would be useful and should be possible with a bit of thought.
It's a bit milder here at the moment Alan - but it was distinctly chilly last week.
I've therefore not been tempted to pop down the 'Shed' for any length of time recently but I have been making a small hand pump for a boiler-test set-up. It is much more attractive to sit down in the warm and do these smaller kinds of jobs inside. If I do need to use one of my larger machines, it doesn't feel so bad if I nip down the shed and just do that one specific thing - before hurrying back indoors for a cuppa and a warm-up.
The EW is more than capable of doing this kind of work, although I must figure out a better system of stops. I've been using a small tool makers clamp on the back of the topslide to control depth of cuts on simple turning jobs - but I'm doing some boring into stopped holes this time around and could use something to control the boring depth (I'm using the topslide for this too of course!). Having said that I'm finding the EW very accurate to use with the dials, provided you take up any backlash first of course.
Anyway - good luck with your EW.
That looks very tidy Alan!
I could hack those arms out of the raw metal (but it would add another thing to my long list of things to-do) - but what sort of costs are involved in the laser-cut solution you adopted?
|Thread: Champion No 1 sensitive drill (made in England)|
Sid - wrt your question about hand shapers.
I have an Adept No 2 hand shaper - and it's not really the physical effort (I only take small cuts anyway) but more the time it takes - it gets a bit boring. So it is a device that in some ways is better used for smaller items where the area you are machining isn't that large - not because you can't machine larger stuff - but because it simply takes more time. Very small slots/ways are also possible with simple tooling that's easy to sharpen.
Having said that - if the mill is already set up for something else - then some jobs still get done on it and I can get a very fine finsh with very simple tools. I also intend to make some tooling for line engraving - both on dials and flat surfaces. Another use could be keyway slots in bores - I'd probably do this on the Adept shaper rather than make a dedicated slotting attachment - easier/quicker.
So in summary a very useful device to have - especially for smaller items where my larger mill would be a bit too large, or where setting up on the vertical slide might be a bit of a pain (or I've got other stuff already in progress). I think it could also be used in a variety of other ways (with a little thought) where a controlled linear cutting motion is required.
|Thread: Materials for 2.5" gauge|
I think Michael has a good contender with 'Dyak' Stuart.
Just checked my drawings - wheels machine to 2-3/4", boiler shellb diameter 3-1/4", cylinder "any" that will machine to 1-5/8" long with 13/16 bore.
Could well be Stuart - a few more measurements would help. How many spokes on that wheel?
Early castings may be to 1/2" but more modern ones will be to 17/32" to give you some idea of scale.
Edited By IanT on 30/10/2012 19:01:58
|Thread: Stringer EW lathe|
Interesting link Michael,
The idea of having a drive to the "top-slide" seems to be quite popular on small precision German lathes. There was a posting here some time ago of a YouTube video of a Lorch KD50 which used the same idea.
Go in about 35 minutes to see the unit in operation (it's an interesting video but perhaps a bit overly long in parts!).
Another idea of interest is extending the countershaft behind the lathe to provide an auxilary drive for overheads etc - something that's quite easy to do on the EW too.
Hallo Ruaidhri, I hope you are well down the road to recovery. I'm sure your EW will appreciate some of your spare time (and getting some use) once you're feeling better.
Alan, very interesting discussion on EW gearing. I've not tried to use the EW for thread cutting - most of my stuff is quite small and therefore die-cut. I do have a slow feed routinely (default) set-up on the Myford though and it does help to give a very good finish.
So a leadscrew dog-clutch and larger quadrant would certainly be useful. I'd like the dimensions of the various components if you have them - and would certainly be interested in any versions you build - and reports on their utility.
My milling attachment has reached the stage where I've "erected" it on the back of the EW - and it seems to be rigid enough. Lots of details still to sort out (and I'm still not sure the motor is up to it) but will have to de-bug in stages as things progress.
Regards to all.
|Thread: mini overhead drive - opinions please|
If anyone has a copy of Edgar Westbury's "Milling in the Lathe" (mine was published in 1948) he gives quite a lot of variations on 'overheads' and discusses their applications and merits in some detail.
The reason i mention this, is that he also describes a "Dwarf" overhead gear for driving vertical spindles (as mentioned by Ady1). He describes it as follows;
"in which the need for the standards and countershaft are eliminated, drive being taken direct from the treadle, through jockey pulleys mounted on brackets attached to the lathe bed. While these variations offer advantages for certain applications, they are not universally adaptable as the standard form of overhead gear and are comparatively little used"
I don't have a scanner handy but the set-up requires vertical uprights (on the bed) to which are attached arms at 90 degrees on which the drive belt pulleys run. The belt is then looped around the milling drive pulley - with the belt running paralell to the bed.before being returned to the treadle drive. I did consider a modern version of this, with an electric motor mounted vertically (and in a corner out of the way) - and two simpler vertical posts (with horizontal pulleys) being used to adjust belt tension. A simpler alternative would of course be to simply mount the motor on a stand behind the device and run a direct belt to the device but this might sometimes get in the way.
I have thought about a more traditional overhead too - but for now, I'm going to try another method suggested by Mr Westbury - the flexible shaft drive. I have a heavy duty one to experiment with - plus a Proxxon shaft/collet chuck combo that will be the basis of my first attempt at some form of light/high speed drilling spindle (mounted on the cross slide or vertical slide) and driven by a Dremel hanging above the lathe.
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