Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New Machining In The Home Workshop Special|
Is this a collection of previously published articles or is this new material?
Either way some indication of contents would be useful as I'm sure many of us have the writings of GHT, Duplex and Tubal Cain (to name a few) to gulde us. However, I have enjoyed the recent workshop "specials" with descriptions of (for instance) Cherry Hills workshop. If this is advice from some the current "Guru's" out there that reflects modern practice - then that would be interesting...
And will it only be available via the post or can we get it at WH Smiths sometime in the future?
|Thread: Handle length for Adept No.2 bench shaper.|
Assuming mine is still in the original paintwork William - a very pale green
|Thread: W Irons|
Doug Hewson used 2mm mild steel on his 5" EIM wagon Bruce.
This scales to (nearly) 1" in real `life, which I think will be correct for 'W' irons. As far I am aware, most wagon 'W' irons did not have any addittional "wear" or bearing surfaces.
I am sure there are many books which give details of RCH wagons but the one I've always used is the old MAP publication "Private-owner wagons". Not sure if this is still in print but I quite often see them in S/H bookshops. The ISBN is (was) 0-85242-343-8, it's only 48 pages but will give you most of what you want for RCH wagons.
The EIM (Doug Hewson) 5" wagon series started in March 1987, but part 3 (May 1987) will give you most of the key dimensions.
|Thread: Do you get what you pay for ?.|
There will undoubtedly be some differences in quality Eric.
However, there will also be a big difference in the amount of use you are likely to put them to, compared to an industrial user. I have taps and dies that have only been used once for a particular job. I also have some taps and dies (ME mainly) that I only use on brass.
So I would think about how often you are likely to use them and also whether you can standardise on what sizes you normally use.
Metric screwing trackle is cheaper these days than Imperial and the ones I have seem to be fine - and I did not pay a fortune for them.
It also makes a difference to the price whether you buy carbon or HSS - and again in my view this is mainly down to the amount of use you expect to get out of them - although I do prefer HSS - I think carbon ones 'chip' more easily - but this may just be the ones I have.
By and large my view is that for Metric taps/dies I use the well known online suppliers and I find these affordable and suitable for my purposes. For my Imperial needs I have used Tracy Tools in the past and they have been OK but I did pay a premium.
I guess that I would not be too upset to throw away a Metric tap and replace it - but hopefully my Imperial stuff will last a lifetime (at least what's left of mine)
|Thread: Handle length for Adept No.2 bench shaper.|
The handle on mine Harry is 24" long x 1" wide x 3/8ths" thick - with the 'pulling end' slightly shaped (rounded edges) to give a better grip/handle for about 6".
|Thread: Keeping it Clean|
Since someone asked - I have old (folded up e.g. 4 layers) cotton dust sheets over my equipment in an unheated garage.
They seem to be effective, although I always try to give everything a wipe over with an oily rag before covering up. The covers themselves are also beginning to aquire a bit of oil on the insides.
I thought about using plastic ( I keep many of my smaller tools in freezer bags but these are squeezed to get the air mostly out and then sealed) but i worried that they could (in some undefined way) trap condensation (I have no real idea whether this might be so or not) whereas the sheets drape well over the areas I want to cover and (probably just as pertinent) were "to hand".
Since I do undertake a small ammount of woodwork in the same area in the Winter, then dust protection is as important to me as rust - but (so far) they seem to be helping with both.
|Thread: Perpetual Motion|
Personally, i've always thought a gravity-fed source of free enery was entirely possible - povided I could find an infinitely deep hole.
Don't let's get too upset about these things...
|Thread: Model Engineer 4366|
It is in my local W H Smiths - saw it this morning - but I've not received my subscription copy in the post as yet.
|Thread: Which screw thread system to use?|
For me it will depend on what work I'm undertaking.
Clearly if I'm restoring my (older) workshop equipment or 'pre-owned' models - i use the original screw sizes - which means a lot of imperial and BA threading. So my need for this tackle has not gone away - and I tend to watch out for BSW, BSF taps and dies at car-boots etc - and buy them if in good condition and the price is right.
For new build models (and I'm into Gauge 3 - 2 1/2" scenic gauge) I still use BA screw sizes (which is a metric thread anyway) together with the normal ME sizes (32 and 40 tpi). It seems to me that these threads are ideal for modelling purposes and I have no need for metric threads in their place. I do however buy metric drill sizes to use with them.
When I am building new pieces of workshop equipment (where I need more strength/robustness) I am standardised on Metric threading - typically M4-M12 - in 'even' sizes, normally coarse. It's much cheaper these days and you can get nuts, bolts, studding at most hardware stores - whereas you can no longer get imperial hardware.
For the record - most of my machinery is Imperial in nature - but I measure and cut in mm - as I find this convenient - and I simply convert everything before I start work. But when I'm thinking about much larger dimensions (laying carpets, garden work etc) then I'm still thinking in terms of yards and feet. I can convert to Metric easily - but that's not what I start with when I'm thinking how wide is that room, how long is that fence etc.
|Thread: Tender materials|
A slightly different suggestion would be to make the tender from stainless steel. You can then use silicon to seal any riveted joints - or if you can TIG weld (or know someone who can) then even better, weld it up. I have a tender in stainless welded up as per the latter suggestion and it is a nice solid job.
Not sure where the material from my existing tender came from - but I have some very nice stainless steel 'kick plates' that came off the bottom of some office doors being replaced by a local company. They would certainly fit the bill for a 3 1/2" engine - and probably most 5" locos.
|Thread: What am I doing wrong???|
Two things - try backing off the two outside 'holding' screws mentioned above and opeing the die a little more with the centre screw (then just nip up the holing screws) This will enlarge the die slightly. Then use the drill chuck nose (mounted in your tailstock - with the 'jaws' wound back into the body - to keep the die square as you apply a small ammount of pressure on the back of the die. Keep the die steady as you turn the chuck (that's holding the rod). This should form a slighly over sized thread - but it will get it started correctly.
Once you have done this - try a nut on the new thread - it will probably be too tight. Ease off the centre screw on the die slighly (half turn), ease, then re-tighten the outside screws and thread the rod again. Use the nut as a guide to correct size again. It should thread on using 'finger' force.
This appraoch should work. If it doesn't - I guess the die is faulty in some way and should be replaced.
|Thread: Old Super Seven - worn clutch|
Thanks for the feedback Dennis - I may try that and see if it solves the problem.
My old Super 7 (the type with the oil window in the headstock) had had a hard life before she came to me. None the less with a little care and attention it's been a very useful tool and I'm not too bothered about the inhertited dents etc.
However, I've now adjusted the clutch a couple of times but it's starting to slip again. I don't want to overtighten the adjusting grub screw as this is the clutch model that Myford no longer have spares for. There is an expanding cylinder inside the countershaft/clutch drum and I suspect that the two friction surfaces are getting a bit worn by now.
I wonder if anyone has sucessfully stuck (epoxied) a shim (brass or tinplate) to the expanding cylinder to take up the wear - as these are normally non-bearing surfaces. This would mean less need to tighten the adjustment screw. Any other ideas would also be welcome however. For instance is there anything in old ME's about this?
|Thread: Scaling Down|
|David the simplest way to get an accurate conversion is to take the ratio between the model track gauge that you intend to use, and the original (prototypical) track gauge. So for instance, standard gauge in UK is 4' 81/2" or 56.5" - so if you are modelling for a model track gauge of (say) 2.5" (Gauge 3) then you divide 56.5/2.5 and come up with a scale ratio of 1:22.6. If you then use this ratio (22.6) and divide it into 12 (i.e. 1 foot) you will arrive at a conversion scale of 0.53097" to the foot - in practice G3 modellers use either 17/32" or 13.5mm to the foot - which is slightly off this but convenient to calculate - but the principle remains true of any model you want to model - use the prototypical track gauge and compare it to the track gauge you intend your model to run on. IanT|
|Thread: Ayesha 2 1/2" articles|
|And you can purchase the castings from the National 2 1/2" Association - they have their own website (easily found on google) Regards, IanT|
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