Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Hard felt alternatives for wipers?|
Thanks for the feedback guys - If I could find the 3" x 4" pads Muzzer mentions that would be a good solution I think. I may also look more closely for old hats in my local charity shops. For anyone interested in a more expensive solution - look at Britishfelt.co.uk. A 3mm hard grey felt (183cm x 1/2m) will set you back £39.14 (plus P&P). In 6mm the same money will get you a 183cm x 1/4m piece. If you want the white felt - its 150cm wide and will set you back £55.93 for 1/2m of 3mm or 1/4m of 6mm. Regards, IanT
|Thread: Source of MT1 blank arbors?|
Jason - thank you - I did look at these sites but obviously not closely enough. Regards, IanT
And whilst I'm logged on - my usual "on-line" supplier doesn't seem to offer MT1 blank arbors any more. I've looked at the other usual suspcts and they seem to have dropped them too. I guess I could use an MT1 drill arbor or if really neccessary make them myself but my "to-do" (e,g. unfinished projects) list is already depressingly long. Regards, IanT
|Thread: Hard felt alternatives for wipers?|
I've just acquired a couple of old (new to me) machines that both have felt wipers that I probably will not be able to get replacements for (and they clearly need replacing - they've crumbled on removal). I've been looking for a source of "hard" felt (about 1/8" thick) sheets to make my own and although I've found several sources (e.g. British Felt etc) - it's pretty expensive stuff. Does anyone have any 'alternates' they use that are affordable? Regards, IanT
|Thread: Manual for Realm-Royal 10" shaper|
Perhaps to state the blindingly obvious Alan - that to cut a dovetail the tool tip needs to be a sharper angle than the dovetail being cut e.g. a 60 degree dovetail needs a 55 degree tool tip. The recommended method seems to be to first rough out from the 'top' of the required dovetail using the shapers power feed (away from the top edge to give a 90 degree down cut). Then having set the vertical slide over (and starting at the bottom of the 90 deg edge just formed) wind up (sideways?) and in a bit before rough cutting the dovetail back 'down' using the vertical hand feed. This is repeated until the dovetail is "roughed out". The final finishing cut is made 'up' from the bottom of the dovetail and away from the bottom in the horizontal direction. So rough cuts in and finishing cuts away from the bottom of the dovetail. The clapper angle shown above is correct (and is free to move) - but obviously only the tool enters the dovetail. Cutting a slot, the clapper is either locked or a lifting device can be fitted - depends to some extent on whether the slot is closed or not (e.g. if the slot is being formed between two drilled holes you have to lock the clapper - or if the ends are 'open' a lifter can be employed). Generally the advice is to use a tool narrower than the required slot and rough out the slot first before finish upcutting the sides Hope this helps. Regs IanT PS Stll cannot use 'enter/CR' to make new lines/paragraphs - anyone know why??
John, I recently acquired a new shaper (Acorn 7" ) which I am very pleased with. Fortunately I was able to download the manual and parts list as it is a version of the Atlas machine widely avaialbe in the US. I also wanted to learn about how to best 'Shape' and it is not quiet as simple as it might first appear. I downloaded the Ian Bradley book - which is Ok as a starting point but not the authoritative source in my view. I also downloaded "Shaper Work" (a suggested course in) by Delmar Publishers Inc. This is an excellent set of very comprehensive 'units' on various aspects of shaper work that will apply to just about any machine from what I can tell. A second recommendation would be the US Army guide to using the South Bend 7" shaper. It covers the basics but in not quite the same detail of Delmar. (comment - for some reason I can't get line breaks at the moment? - so this will be one long paragraph!). These books can be found at achive.com (sorry 'pasting' doesn't seem to be working for me att either). Hope this helps - Regards, IanT
Edited By IanT on 20/03/2013 09:17:01
|Thread: mill tooling|
It was given in the previous thread I mentioned - but this is the link to the data that I found the most useful to check my mill taper. You'll find the 1 3.8th NS listed here (together with the INT tapers - and that's what mine is.
Suggest you check yours for the same metrics
it could be 1 3/8" NS - I have an old Victoria Horizontal that seems to be equipped with this taper too..
See this thread for details.
|Thread: What became of Don Gordon's "High Precision/Low Cost"|
I agree with you Lawrence.
I read all his articles in ME and even went to the extent of copying them and sticking them in a plastic folder (which I've just been looking for without too much success). There were lots of very good ideas contained within Don's writings but his underlying argument was that simple methods, executed with care could yeild excellent results for anyone engaged in small scale modelling.
I think Don was the first person I read to recommend the use of small section (1/8" ) tooling - a practice i adopted as my 'norm' then and still routinely use (unless i have a very good reason/need to use larger section tooling). As Don states - it is much easier and quicker to sharpen small tooling and to keep them in tip-top condition (than larger tooling) and that generally they are more than adequate for most jobs (and certainly for much of the work I do).
I'm not aware that his work was ever published per se but I do agree that it is a very useful read - not only for rhe examples Don gives but also as a simple approach to getting good results.
Edited By IanT on 22/02/2013 10:11:21
|Thread: Cross vice + grinder = Quorn?|
Thanks for the photos Les - very helpful.
John - I might have some rusty black angle iron somewhere down the shed but I'm fairly certain that I don't have any non-rusty stuff anywhere (just about everything in my shed is rusty!) - so please put a hold on that redesign.
Edited By IanT on 17/02/2013 22:58:23
Any chance of a couple of more photos of your arrnagement please - one from the side and one a bit closer up of the table arrangement ?
|Thread: Lathe Slitting Table|
It is Ian SC - look at PM July 1958 - Page 189
For those who don't know - you can find PM here;
|Thread: Revised boiler test code|
Well I assume the "if practical" bit will be up to the Boiler Tester to interpret & decide.
If you have four or five engines to test of a morning, it's one thing to hydralic test them by whipping out the safety valves and screwing in your test rig (together with a quick visual) and another thing altogether to try and remove (and blank) off the superheater.
But as this matter seems to rely on the discretion of the Boiler Tester, I supect that in practice it will not therefore be an issue for most people. I hope not, as unscrewing mine is a pain at the best of times and there would not be too much room to fit a blanking plug (at least whilst the boiler is still in-situ).
So I don't think it will be "practical" in most caes....and I very much doubt many BT's will want to do it. I'm not going to worry too much about this (nor debate the neccessity of it) until I actually get asked to do it by my friendly local BT!
To be honest - I received my copy yesterday and I thought it was just a little mundane for a 200th (and presumably therefore special) Edition.
I also really wish that they would not place advertisments (7 pages of them) inside the main body of the magazine section. I like to book-bind my copies and don't really want to include this material too.
So no cigars from me I'm afraid.
|Thread: Is LBSC correct|
I have one of those hones Norman - but not used it just yet. I will certainly use your idea when I do.
PS How are you holding the part? The jaws seem to be clamping the lid.
Edited By IanT on 04/02/2013 09:02:47
|Thread: Stringer EW lathe|
It looks promising but I think somephotos would help me understand it a little better. So I look forward to seeing how you progress this project. Always easier to follow where someone has gone before!
Once again - thank you for sharing this with us.
|Thread: An announcement from the Editor of Model Engineer.|
I've been quite enjoying reading the LBSC articles David and as they were originally in English Mechanics - personally I've not seen them before.
Perhaps they also remind us that people had to make do with a lot less in the way of equipment in those days and that you can do a great deal on a lathe without needing the luxury of a milling machine. Some of the tecniques described by LBSC are still very useful but don't tend to get mentioned so much these days as most modern 'Authors' use a mill.
So I hope Diane will continue to publish some of LBSC's more obscure material (e.g. non-ME articles) from time to time as it is of interest to some of us.
|Thread: Stringer EW lathe|
Yes - I was forgetting the "Drummond" reference!
I'll see whether I have that one (2608) too - and report back.
Alan - I'll be in touch once resolved.
I think i've found the relevant issue thanks Michael - No 2528 "In the Workshop" No 49 - A Saddle Traversing Gear & Fine Feed.
The design basically uses an intermediate set of gears that are disengaded by means of a 'bobbin' activated by a lever. As some modification to the quadrant is required, Duplex suggested that it would probably be best to use a dedicated quadrant for the unit and swop between this and the standard one as required.
Alan - if you would like to examine this design (for the ML7) I will scan it and send you a copy by PM.
A quick ME Index check suggests that the Duplex articles you refer to might be part of their "In the Workshop" series. Volume 101 - Issues 2528, 2530 & 2532 may be the ones to look at I think. I'll see if I've got them this evening.
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