Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Sourcing small/light 1/3 HP Motors?|
I did look at the Peatol site but couldn't find any motors/pricing. I'll have another look.
(I've still not gone beyond the point of 'no-return' with the wife's mixer - although its 180W)
Thank you Ian SC for your earlier comment about 'shaded pole' motors (I had to look it up on Wikipedia!) - and lack of starting torque was what made me think the motor was underpowered.
However, your most recent posting has brought on another evil thought!
I'm sure SWMBO has a food mixer with a broken switch. I may have to offer to fix it for her and (if it seems to fit the bill) perhaps find that it is "beyond economic repair".
That might be overcooking it a bit I think Ian!
I can get a 3-phase 1/4HP on eBay for around the £56-60 mark but then would need an inverter too (another £100 or so). There didn't seem to be any single phase motors (at least from UK) in this size listed. I'd prefer a flange mounting too if possible although I could accomodate 'feet'.
The 24V 'scooter' motors are about the right price (£25-£30) in the 200-250W range but I'd need some form of PSU. The 1 phase motor I was going to use is about the right size and weight (it came from a power shower I believe) and runs quietly but doesn't seem to have enough power (it's not marked with a rating - so hard to tell what it is).
I think I'll continue looking but may have to change the drive arrangements so I can use one of my existing larger (and heavier) motors. Generally when it comes down to 'my time' or 'my money' - it's a bit of a no brainer (it's a hobby and fortunately I'm not trying to make a living doing this) but some issues are hard to avoid I guess.
Thanks for everyones advice.
Thanks for your help guys - some leads to follow up.
BTW - You may be right about the 1/3Hp motor Ted - I've just looked at the Taig site and although they don't spec the 'standard' motor, they do rate the larger CNC 'upgrade' motor as 1/4HP @ 3400rpm (continuous duty) - and it's $80 in the US.
I've just built a small milling machine based on a Taig head - but find the single phase motors I currently have are either not powerful enough or too heavy for the current mounting I've designed (very similar to that used on the Taig mill itself).
It seems I might have to spend some of my ill gotten gains on a new motor - and one option might be a brushless DC motor (with controller) - as used by Sieg for instance. However, having managed to build the device for about £100 so far, I'm reluctant to spend too much.
Any ideas for where I might get about 1/3HP (or 200-300W or so) of compact, light motive power - either a new 'spare' (from a childs scooter or running machine perhaps?) - or maybe canabalised from a domestic applicance or similar for reasonable money? I wondered if anyone had found a good alternative source of such already and could advise?
And yes - I know I can get a 3 phase motor and controller for £300 but I could have also gone out and brought a mini-mill too - but I didn't !
|Thread: drill sets|
For what little it's worth Ron (I don't claim any expertise) I operate on a kind of two tier basis (and I also effectively have two workshops - one in the house and one down the bottom of the garden)
The first 'Tier' is for general 'hole making' purposes & I have a box of (Lidl) metric coated drills in 0.5mm steps up to 10mm in each location. For many simple jobs - I don't need "precision" drilling quite frankly and at the price these drills are effectively disposable.
The second Tier - is a single set of 1-6mm and a set of 6-10mm (in 0.1mm steps) that get used where more 'precise' holes are needed and these were purchased from a well known online source and seem perfectly usable for most of my needs. If they are needed down the garden - they go down for that particular job.
However - I also have quite a selection of "odds & sods" drills collected over the years and I've sorted through these and where appropriate (e.g. for tapping sizes) - I've got these stored with the taps, reamers etc where they will easily cometo hand. Most are in good condition - but one or two needed attention - and these are the only drills that I've ever bothered to sharpen (using a diamond lap and a form of 4 facet). These move with the taps/reamers etc as needed.
Thinking about it - perhaps I should mention that I've also modified (butchered might be a better word) some of my other 'odds & sods' stock (generally the well worn ones!) for various specialist uses - such as drilling thin brass sheet, for flat 'bottoming' holes or for countersinking (into existing holes) for instance.
So in summary - I have cheaper drills for making general purpose holes - and other, slightly better drills for more specific uses. My theory is that if I use the better quality stuff only when needed - it will probably last a bit longer & in better shape.
PS And I hope I don't need to state this but I also have other sets of various drills that are only used in hand drills and for my wood torturing work! I don't ever mix the two groups - although some older metal drills have found their way into my B&D/woodworking sets - buy never the other way around!
|Thread: Long BA Screws|
Ah - Ian SC beat me to it really - although my solution would have been a custom made nut with the countersink machined on it - and then threaded rod used as a stud.
For larger 'countersunk' holes (where a long cheesehead type might be required) - a slotted circular nut is used as a similar alternative with a stud - but requires a special screwdriver to tighten it up.
|Thread: Stringer EW lathe|
Whilst I'm here....work on my hand pump is progressing well.
Having managed to drill the first valve body off centre - I was a lot more careful the second time around. I'm sure my approach is not new - but it might be useful to some so I'll just run through the essentials.
My new bit of brass (fished from the 'scrap' bin) had a raised 'rim' at one end. My initial thought was to turn this down to the main diameter but on thinking about it, I decided it might have some use. I therefore chucked it (as level as I could with a little packing) in the 4 jaw - and turned down a 'flat' on the raised part of the first side - just enough to bring it level with the main body. I then turned the part over, hoping to use the 'flat' to help hold the body steady (as it had appeared to "roll" slightly the first time). No, I don't know how or why either - but it did!
I then did the same again on the second side but this time went 2 thou futher in to make a very slight flat on the whole body. If you look at the photo you will see that the flat is wider at one end, suggesting that the part moved up slightly during this process. Fortunately this didn't matter too much, although obviuosly the thinner the flat the better.
I then unscrewed the 4 jaw and marked the flat the required distance from the end and then using my trusty optical centre punch, placed a punch 'mark' in the middle of the flat/scribed mark.
Returning the chuck to the EW it was then very simple to make sure the part was bang on centre using two MT1 centres as shown above. It only needed a few slight tweeks to get it centred to 1 or 2 thou - more than good enough for my needs. I then drilled out to 8mm and bored the blind hole to final size but mostly to get the hole's bottom flat. All went well this time.
So the clear morale is that with a bit more care and thought, you can get a much better result!
It also leads to much more Happiness (as opposed to much more Annoyance, as per the first time around!)
I've sent you 'select few' copies of the JJ Constable EW Slow Feed article, as I've finally had the time to dig it out myself and read it. You will be pleased to hear that "the lathe maker's claims are fully justified" in Mr Constables opinion, something I think we would all be happy to agree with.
Hallo V8eng - thank you for this and you are correct with regards to models available.
One of our group (sorry I cannot recall who off the top of my head) distributed some Stringer EW sales literature and invoices sent to a relative to our group that dated from May 1953.
The "Plain" EW A Model ( 10" bed ) lathe cost £13-4-0 back then.
The Model B added the leadscrew at a toal cost of £14-17-0
The Model C added backgear at a total cost of £17-1-0
The Model D added a set of changewheels at total cost of £19-16-0
It was however simple to upgrade to any model by simply purchasing the required parts. The gap-bed was an option and cost 8/3p
It might interest some and help to put these prices into some perspective, if I add that a 4" 4-Jaw Burned chuck was listed at £2-16-0 - a pretty expensive item in 1953 but one that sounds quite reasonable these days!
Edited By IanT on 11/12/2012 19:54:22
|Thread: BV25 Lathe?|
So no one seems to be selling an equivalent lathe in the UK currently then?
|Thread: J B WELD|
My local hardware store stocks it Dougie - but it's very unlikely you live anywhere near Wokingham.
However, I do try to buy stuff there whenever possible, simply becuase he stocks stuff I can't normally get at the DIY stores (JB Weld, Gorilla Glue etc). It might be strange to say this - but in some ways he has a much wider/better range of stuff than they do (maybe I mean its a bit more specilaist?) and is also pretty knowledable about it too. He clearly talks to his other customers about what works best for them.
It may be a bit more expensive, but I feel it's worth my while to try and help him stay in business. My purchases are generally small in nature and his prices not so bad and sometimes (to my surprise) he's cheaper than our local Homebase.
Of course you can probably also get anything you want mail order on the InterWebby these days - but then when you want something to finish that urgent plumbing job for your Manager - that might not be quite as handy.
So give your local hardware shop a call Dougie!
|Thread: Stringer EW lathe|
Hi Alan - that sounds Ok. Please keep me informed.
Fortunately my scrap box yielded up a suitable lump of brass - a bit wider than the first one but good enough. It's currently being faced at both ends and brought to length. Last time I did the easy bits first, leaving the hardest operation till last. This time I will do the hardest bit first and hopefully not screw up the "easy" bits (assuming sucess with the first part) afterwards!
Bill - thank you for thinking to let us know about the Martin Cleeve articles - but I am afraid we "EW'ers" are somewhat ahead of you here. Copies of those articles (much of which would be useful to other users of smaller lathes btw) have already been distributed around our somewhat select (e.g. small) EW Owners Club!
|Thread: BV25 Lathe?|
I cannot find a BV lathe on the Axminster site Jason - they seem to be selling Sieg lathes (any connection?).
Warco do a range of WM250 lathes - are these also similar to the one described I wonder?
I've just received my latest MEW (198) - and there is an article by Alan James Aldridge in there about his new (ish) BV25 lathe. I was curioius as to who distributed this lathe in the UK (and what it might cost etc) - but I have not managed to find it after a quick (UK only) Google.
Any idea who sells this is in the UK - or alternatively - what an equivalent model might be from a UK supplier? I'm assuming someone is probably selling exactly the same machine under a different badge/model number.
Regards, Ian T
Edited By IanT on 10/12/2012 14:14:10
Edited By IanT on 10/12/2012 14:14:56
|Thread: Stringer EW lathe|
That offer of a counter-shaft might be interesting, mine works but is not exactly pretty! Perhaps you could PM me with the likely costs (and what sort of bearings you intend to use?)
In the meantime - all was going well yesterday until I rushed things!
I was busy boring some blind holes 8.8mm x11mm deep (and only had 8mm drill) - and will admit to a 'bodge' that probably will be frowned upon by many. I was using an old Eclipse boring bar that has been well ground down to get into smaller holes and to get the depth right - I used that clamp again but directly on the tool. I could then just touch the tool to the face and then bore in till the clamp also touched the face (which you can hear touch). The clamp was positioned using a vernier gauge for depth. Anyway, it all worked well, so happy - I moved on to boring a flat on the side of the (round) valve assembly.
Obviously I must have been flushed with success from my previous work - as I managed to well and truely screw this up. I didn't get the item completely centred and it also must have moved in the process (even though it was in the 4 jaw). It might be useable (just) but I think I will have to re-do it again from scratch, as it offends me!
It was the last operation on the part too. A few choice words were said in private last night!!
So back down to that frosty Shed later to see if I have another suitable bit of brass in the scrap box.
|Thread: advice re scroll saw|
I purchased a chinese scroll saw recently - not unlike the one mentioned above.
I also have a 'vibra' saw (a simple sprung arm type of scroll saw) which I've had for many years and which works very well on small ply parts where I need to cut out shapes/holes (windows etc).. It's more akin to a low-powered fret saw - you can put your finger on the blade without harm.
So why the new saw? Well, I want to cut brass sheet with it - and therefore needed a) a lower cutting speed (mine has variable speeds) b) to be able to use a heavier (metal) cutting blade and choice of blade holder types and c) the ability to modify the machine over time to meet my needs - so a solid base to work with. The machine has a cast iron table which I think is essential when using these machines for metal work (as opposed to wood/ply - where aluminium is OK). My 'Vibra' BTW is all plastic construction and has worn suprisingly well but then I haven't abused it!
I generally do beleive in buying the best you can afford in tools but a Hegner would be too much for my pocket - given this is something I will use only occassionally. If I was a full time "scroller" then this would be different - but my money is mainly in metal mangling machinery!
|Thread: Stringer EW lathe|
PS Sorry - that clamp is put on the back of the cross-slide of course - not the top-slide!
However some means of fitting a simple 'stop' on (or that works with) the top-slide would be useful and should be possible with a bit of thought.
It's a bit milder here at the moment Alan - but it was distinctly chilly last week.
I've therefore not been tempted to pop down the 'Shed' for any length of time recently but I have been making a small hand pump for a boiler-test set-up. It is much more attractive to sit down in the warm and do these smaller kinds of jobs inside. If I do need to use one of my larger machines, it doesn't feel so bad if I nip down the shed and just do that one specific thing - before hurrying back indoors for a cuppa and a warm-up.
The EW is more than capable of doing this kind of work, although I must figure out a better system of stops. I've been using a small tool makers clamp on the back of the topslide to control depth of cuts on simple turning jobs - but I'm doing some boring into stopped holes this time around and could use something to control the boring depth (I'm using the topslide for this too of course!). Having said that I'm finding the EW very accurate to use with the dials, provided you take up any backlash first of course.
Anyway - good luck with your EW.
That looks very tidy Alan!
I could hack those arms out of the raw metal (but it would add another thing to my long list of things to-do) - but what sort of costs are involved in the laser-cut solution you adopted?
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