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Member postings for IanT

Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: mini Bandsaw, or mini Scroll Saw ??
02/01/2014 13:51:21

Hi Russell,

I'm not entirely sure from reading your post what type of material you are trying to cut and how complex the "profile" that you want to cut is? I'm assuming it might be metal rather than wood but I'm really not sure.

I have a small bandsaw and a scrollsaw. They are both "cheap" machines (Lidl's probably) and to be honest I don't use them that much for woodwork (and never for metal). The scrollsaw is useful for intricate cuts, whereas the bandsaw is more useful for prepping materials to size. Obviously, the bandsaw is limited in respect to how tight the curved cuts can be (and therefore the intricacy of the cuts you can make).

The scrollsaw has been sufficient for the very occasional use I have had from it but I wish I had spent more on the bandsaw. You want a very rigid frame for a start. As I said, I don't use either very much. My main weapon of choice on my 'wooden' modelling side is a small Proxxon table saw (used quite a bit and very useful).

I think you will get more advice if you let us have a bit more detail about what you are trying to do with the tools.

Regards,

IanT

Thread: Surface finish
02/01/2014 10:13:46

Oh, and I'd also look at some way to lock the downfeed - it might be moving under the cut and is one potential cause of problems that you can easily eliminate from your list of possible causes.

Regards,

IanT

02/01/2014 10:08:53

Hi Gordon and welcome to 2014!

It's always hard to offer good advice from just a short description and the odd photo. My initial reaction was that you were trying to make too large a cut with a 'finishing' tool and that there might also be some form of slippage in your "drive train" as a result.

You seem to be moving in the right direction with respect to tooling (your 'V' shaped tool is a good start) and I would suggest that you look next at the speed you are running the Shaper at (try slowing down), together with the ratio between the 'feed' rate versus the depth of cut. I'd suggest you try slightly wider feeds with shallower cuts to begin with (as opposed to a shorter feed and a deeper cut). Until you can get a fairly good finish using the V tool, I wouldn't worry too much about using 'finishing' tooling - they are exactly what the name suggests - for finishing.

I would also check for any movement of the ram (when extended) by clamping a DTI to it and seeing how much movement you have (similar check to gripping a bar in a lathe's 3 jaw and seeing how much movement the headstock bearings will allow). There will be some movement but hopefully not excessive. You should really only adjust the gibs when the slide is disconnected from the drive and it can be moved freely (and I don't know if this is possible for the powered Adept).

Finally, the finish will also be a function of the type of material you are trying to cut Try various materials and see if things improve..

In summary, I would suggest that you "fault find" by only changing one thing (variable) at a time, looking for any changes in the cut quality and keeping notes as you go. 'Trial and Error' will work for you, provided you are methodical.

Regards,

Ian T

Thread: Adept No.2 Shaper
29/12/2013 00:02:55

I do understand the limitations of hand shapers Bob,

I've tried machining relatively large surfaces with my Adept some time ago. It was hard work but I was intrigued by the whole Shaper experience. As I've mentioned on a previous thread, it was one of the reasons I purchased a 7" Atlas when I got the chance. I find the (powered) Atlas is very good for surfacing larger surface areas (with an excellent finish) as I can set it up to run and (within reason) let it work whilst I get on with other things nearby. I suspect a lot of comment about Shapers being "slow" ignores this aspect of their operation. I certainly cannot 'duplex' with a lathe or mill in quite the same way.

However, I am not intending to use the Adept to remove large amounts of metal, I'm looking to use it on smaller and/or more specialist items/tasks. I think of it as a 'linear' cutting tool and one where I think the "hand" (control) aspect of it might even be an advantage. There are of course always more than one way to do things (like skinning cats apparently) so only time will tell whether this will turn out to be useful in practice. Fortunately I do this for fun and as I like experimenting with things, if they don't work out exactly as planned, it doesn't matter too much.

Regards,

IanT

Thread: Shaper cutting tools
28/12/2013 15:02:06

You certainly can use lathe tooling on a Shaper Lee and I did so when I first acquired mine.

However, if you read the old "machinery" books on the subject (and I mean those written when the Shaper was still in common use) you will find that the tooling was not quite "the same" at all. This is an area that I am still exploring myself, so I'm not going to try to give you any specific advice, except that it well worth while digging out the old materials on this subject and having a good read.

One of my books (cannot put my hands on the particular one right now) says something along the lines of:

"Every skilled Shaper operator had his own favourite cutting tools for certain jobs and these were viewed as valuable assets by them..."

I'm sure there's not too much real alchemy involved here but I do think it will pay to experiment a little in this area - as this is fast becoming a bit of a lost art I suspect.

Regards,

IanT

Thread: Adept No.2 Shaper
28/12/2013 11:41:28

 

adept no2 - repainted dec 2013.jpg

Welcome to the Adept Owners Club Michael!

My machine has moved indoors to join my winter workshop and has taken up residence on the end of my axillary workbench (it's wheeled) with my Cowells drill. It was looking a bit battered but on examination it seemed mainly a problem with cracked paint (I suspect a top coat without any attempt to clean/degrease underneath it) - so I stripped it back to bare metal, primed it and have just brushed on two coats of engine enamel (Apple Green)

adept no2 - nov 2013 -3.jpg

I have a number of ideas (which we've discussed here on another thread) for using this small tool but my first change will be to make a "half-length" handle. I'll keep the old one as is, but I purchased a new length of suitable bar at Sandown for the shorter handle. I found that for the work I was doing, I was always gripping the handle nearer the shaper, so this is a simple mod that will make the machine easier to use (in a confined space).

I think you will find this to be a very solid foundation for the sort of linear cutting machine you were thinking of, providing that you work on the basis that the current feed arrangements are simply for "coarse" positioning.

Anyway, good luck with your new shaper - perhaps we could both post some progress notes next year?

Regards,

 

Ian

Edited By IanT on 28/12/2013 11:43:24

Thread: This Forum
20/12/2013 16:24:40

As a former Newsletter Editor (for some seven years) I'm afraid the reality is that (stating the blindingly obvious)any publication will be limited (in what it can publish) to that material which it receives for publication.

It was also true that some of our most gifted Members/Modellers also seemed to be the most reluctant to put pen to paper, be that from some form of misplaced modesty (a belief that no-one else would be interested in their work), a seeming inability to string a few words together (unlike their ability to 'mangle' metal) or simply that they were unwilling to give up any more of their remaining precious 'free time' to do so (and this is not a criticism of that attitude by the way - you can't buy more time for yourself).

Of course, ME does pay it's contributors but (as someone has already mentioned) the hourly rate is probably effectively below the minimum wage and I therefore suspect that Diane's ability to commission specific specialist articles is fairly limited. Those willing to give up their time to put pen to paper and document their successes (and maybe the odd failure) for us, generally do so because they want to share their work and interests rather than to gain some fiscal reward.

What I used to tell Members (when they voiced similar thoughts to those above) still seems to holds true here.

The Newsletter (or Model Engineer) will be what our 'community' makes of it. If you are unhappy with the NL (or ME) contents and want to see something different in it, then do something about it. Write something yourself or persuade someone who can to do so. Otherwise, we will just have to be content with what we receive, which (in the case of ME) I think is generally already pretty good.

Regards,

IanT

Thread: 3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH
18/12/2013 15:58:41

Hi Ryan,

A very nice job you are doing there - congratulations.

Not sure how to phonetically spell Tich but the best I can offer is that "Tich" is like 'ITCH' with a 'T 'in front !!

Keep up the running commentary, I'm sure everyone will enjoy watching your progress.

Regards,

 

Ian T

Edited By IanT on 18/12/2013 15:59:41

Thread: Rollo Elf
18/12/2013 15:34:02

My 'Rollo' has the round bed and a simple gear train in the headstock assembly. From what I can recall though, the spindle is a simple plain one (e.g. no external tapers) - so it would be a fairly easy matter to make up a new one. The Elf nose is threaded and mine had a rather nice Burnerd scroll chuck fitted that was promptly moved to my EW when it was acquired (which is why I loaned out the Elf!)

I had originally intended to make a new spindle for the Elf with a different nose thread. The bearings are just plain CI bores (e.g. no external tapers) and this would be fairly simple to do on a larger machine (although I'd lap the new spindle to fit the existing bores).

So if you do want a different spindle, I'd suggest that you make a new one, rather than risk messing up the original. I'm not sure what the Elf 'nose' thread is but it might make sense to make any new spindle to match a more popular/modern small lathe (maybe a Sieg C0 baby lathe?)

Regards,

IanT.

17/12/2013 17:05:55

I have a Rollo Elf (hand cranked version) that I've "loaned" out to a friend (so I don't have it to hand) but from memory it has an MT1` taper.

Regards,

Ian T

Thread: ts-modelldampfmaschinen
12/12/2013 13:57:34

The Germans do produce some lovely work and I've found a few sites that bear closer examination (even though Bing Translator struggles a bit with German technical terms).

I've been looking at this guys work again recently ...It may have been posted here before (which may be where I first came across him?) I can't remember now but for anyone who has not seen this guys work - have a look through here, there are lots of interesting ideas & projects:

**LINK**

Regards,

IanT

Thread: workshop heating
12/12/2013 10:09:11

Alternatively, stay indoors and set up a mini-workshop on an old printer table. You can still go down the Shed on mild days and you are more likely to be tempted to get something done on a cold night (than just stay indoors and watch the TV).

My little EW set-up is slowly evolving and there are many smaller jobs that can now be done in comfort.

ew with taig mill mounted - 091113.jpg

Thread: ME4470
26/11/2013 09:29:36

I found the article on 'Locomotive springing, adhesion and pulling power' very interesting Diane and it's not something I can recall being covered in such straightforward terms elsewhere before.

Although I model in Gauge 3 (the largest scenic gauge) and I've therefore not the quite the same 'traction' issues as those who passenger haul, I will still look at this article again when I come to re-spring my GNR Atlantic (as I will do shortly as part of its refurb). I have always used the same strength springs on all axles up to now....

The other pages of "Math" were regards to combustion - and although the formulae were way beyond what I can now remember of my calculus, there were none the less some very interesting points made about the nature of combustion that will inform me in the future. The math didn't detract from this info (and I'm sure some were happy to see the 'proof' ). I am quite capable of skimming over these parts to get to the grist (which I will admit I had to then re-read to let the salient points sink in - brain cells are getting lazy these days).

So actually - I thought these two "Maths" articles were some of the most interesting and thought provoking I've seen for a little while.

Regards,

 

IanT

Edited By IanT on 26/11/2013 09:30:05

Thread: A 'Starter Kit' for a Stent T&C?
20/11/2013 10:31:35

Thank you for the advice John

I had a look at the Arc site over the weekend and noted that their diamond wheels were "Recommended for grinding carbide tipped or solid carbide milling cutters and lathe tools etc. as well as glass and ceramics" - with no mention of HSS, which is my primary need. So I had kind of come to the conclusion that it was probably going to be aluminium oxide wheels for my (mainly) HSS tooling.

Does anyone have suggestions as to the best place to buy them?

I've also dissembled the machine and cleaned it up for a first look. I'm very happy with it generally but I think the spindle will need redoing. I've read all I could find about the Stent (and the Brooks) and I will change the motor to the left (as per MEW 137) and this would have required a rework of the spindle anyway. In terms of spindles (and the mounting of wheels) the Quorn seems to be well regarded in this area, so a copy of Prof. Chaddock's Quorn book is now on my required reading list.

I am going to Sandown in a few weeks time Rik and will take my camera and notebook along and see if I can find any Stent's (and perhaps some Stent builders too!)

Regards,

IanT

17/11/2013 22:58:55

So have diamond wheels superseded the white oxide ones now then?

IanT

17/11/2013 11:42:59

In order to sharpen my lathe and shaper tools, I have made do (thus far) with an extended guide on a 6" grinder, fitted with a simple sliding table (and angle plate). I've wanted something better for a while and had considered the various options (Harold Halls 'rests' for instance).

However, I have been very fortunate this weekend to acquire a part built Stent T&C for a reasonable price. The main castings have been machined and a lot of the 'heavy lifting' work seems to have been done. I'll know more when I dissemble it and take a closer look next week. I have to decide how to mount the motor and make various small fittings/hand wheels etc, including the work-holders (I've the castings for the main work holder but no centres for instance).

I already have copies of the ME (1991) articles on the Stent build and also MEW 137 (on a "Super" Stent version) and will sit down for a good read over coffee later. I therefore have most of the available reference materials and will also re-read the various 'Brooks-Stent' material (e.g. Gadgetbuilder) available (which was another of my possible T&C options before this one came along). However, any recommendations and/or comments in this area would also be most welcome!

I will obviously need a set of grinding wheels and know that the 'white' aluminium oxide wheels used to be the norm. However, these days there are also 'diamond' wheels available (from Arc for instance).

I still expect to rough out my cutting tools on the 6" grinder by the way and I also sometimes "pre-form" them with either a Dremel or an angle grinder. So the Stent will initially just be used to maintain my existing lathe and shaper tools and hopefully thereby get better 'repeatability' and sharper tooling. However, I also want to start learning to sharpen milling cutters, as I now have quite a few that probably need it.

So my apologies for the long pre-amble but my questions are these:

What would be a good "starter" set of grinding wheels (suitable for the Stent) and what should I get - just diamond or just 'white' to begin with. What are the pros & cons of each? Should I adopt a particular "standard" for my wheels at the outset (wheel diameter, mounting holes etc?) And of course where would you suggest I buy them?

In other words, what would you recommend if you were starting over & buying these items for a Stent type T&C from scratch?

Regards,

IanT

Thread: Metric or Imperial
17/11/2013 10:30:35

You do seem to find some interesting places out there in Webland Michael.

Thank you for this one - I'm sure it will come in handy one day (added to favourites!)

Regards,

IanT

Thread: Machining a soft-ended MT2
13/11/2013 12:02:15

I've used studding as a drawbar on my old Super 7 for many years with no problems at all. It is not under stress and if it does wear, then I'll just cut another piece.

I also turned two nuts down to the spindle bore diameter and Loctite'd them on to the drawbar spaced apart 50mm or so. They stop it bouncing around and make it easier to insert & screw on.

Another tip - I have converted all my Imperial MT2 tapers to Metric ones with a simple screw-in adaptor (a short bar with Imperial male & metric female threads). I only need one drawbar for everything then.

The main problem with MT2 accessories is getting them out afterwards if you tighten up too much! Where possible I make the rear diameter of the tool larger than the 'hole' in my between-centres driving plate (used without its driving pin fitted) so I can unscrew it and thereby extract any MT tapers being used.

In one instance, I drilled a hole through the MT fitting so that a bar could be pushed through, which then gives a face for the plate to push out on. The driving plate also protects the spindle threads from damage.

The photo shows an Arrand MT2 flycutter which needs to be fairly tight and which can be removed easily by this method. Before I started to do this, it was a right whatsit to remove.

Fly cutting Taig mounting

If I was threading this MT2 taper, I would certainly mount the taper directly in the spindle to machine it but I guess the OP has an MT3 taper in the spindle and an MT2 in the tailstock? This is a bit inconvenient in my view but is simply solved by an MT3>2 adaptor.

Regards,

IanT

Thread: Pressure Gauge Thread
06/11/2013 10:09:57

Hi Julian,

If I don't have a tap to match this thread (or cannot purchase one) then I think that is what I will have to do - assuming I can disassemble the gauge. As you say there is enough meat on the connector to do this and I'm sure I can devise a custom sealing method (O-ring or similar) for my 'adaptor'.

I'm not too concerned about calibration as it's purely for my own use at this time and I simply want to be able to monitor the ability of boilers/fittings to 'hold' a pressure for a short while - and I'm sure the gauge will be good enough for this purpose. Of course, if I get the chance I will check my gauge against one of the (Gauge 3) Society's calibrated test rigs.

Thanks for everyone's input.

Regards,

IanT

05/11/2013 23:10:47

Thank you for your suggestions guys.

The 100mm gauge is scaled to 15 bar (217psi) which is fine for my needs but also has another scale marked for degrees C - so I'm not really sure of the original intended use but it seems to be pressure/temp related.

The thread doesn't seem to have any taper but it does have a 8.5mm smooth lead-in to it that is about 4mm deep. There is no seal fitted but the threaded part of the connector runs into a large flat (hex) piece that is 21.4mm across flats and this could be used as one face of any seal. I will see if I have a 7/16th UNF tap to compare it with.

If it's a standard sized tap that I can identify, then I should be able to make a usable fitting to mate with (and seal) it. I wasn't sure if I was missing something a bit more obvious, as there doesn't seem to be too much correlation (in pipe threads) between the actual major thread diameter and the nominal size.

Regards,

IanT.

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