Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Taig lathe DC motor|
BTW - if anyone has the same DC controller board (as can be seen above) that originally came with this DC motor - I'd be quite happy to share the STL file for the printed box to mount it in (or the Solid Edge .par file if preferred).
I'm sure it's not perfect (e.g. could be improved) and takes about 11 hours to print but I was quite pleased with it.
Here is another view of the Drill/DC motor set-up. I'm afraid I cannot see how to rotate this image - it was the right way up when imported...
I believe I have the same motor on my Cowells drill now - giving variable speed on it's three pulley settings. It's a 200W, 200v DC brushed motor. It seems to have enough power but I only use it for small work - having a larger 12-speed Warco for any heavier drilling.
The motor is held in a 3D printed 'saddle' designed using Open SCAD and 3D printed on my Sovol S01. I thought about replacing the existing control board with one of my Micromite speed controllers - very easy to do as it's just PWM (a few lines in MMB) but decided to retain the existing controller - at least for now.
I 3D printed a box for the controller but used Solid Edge 2020 to design it - partly to practice my emerging skills in 3D CAD but also because this was very much a one-off, custom design. I was quite pleased with the result and the new set-up works well with the existing IR remote. I've still got a few things to do before it's finished but getting there - albeit slowly.
Edited By IanT on 03/02/2021 12:03:15
|Thread: Micro rivets|
I think others have already covered it - but access for riveting is obviously easier as you work through a sequence of sub-assemblies and much harder to do once the whole chassis is assembled.
You could completely strip and start over but that would be a lot of work and some damage might result. I'm not sure how large this model is exactly - but I think I would take a more pragmatic approach.
Something which hasn't been mentioned but which I think would be useful - would be to build a chassis jig to hold key datum points on the chassis true and level. We have access to modern adhesives now and having established how things should be (aligned) I'd carefully remove any really loose rivets and seek to clean the mating surfaces before using some form of epoxy resin. Cosmetic replacement rivets could be inserted at the same time. I think this would be a much more practical approach than completely stripping the chassis. Of course it might be possible to remove some sub-assemblies and re-rivet them from scratch but I'd still use adhesive and jig where necessary.
It's a very nice model and worth doing well.
|Thread: 1-2-3 Block Clamping|
I came across this YouTube this morning and have not seen this idea before (although it may not be new of course).
I thought it was interesting enough to be worth sharing and they have joined my ever expanding TUIT list...
|Thread: Views Inside the Sieg Factory in Shanghai|
The Horse is considered to be 'hard working' by the Chinese - so it's probably something like 'Hard Working' 'Special' (for) 'West' .
I learned some Cantonese when I lived in the Far East and could sometimes get a free beer by speaking it out loud in my favourite local bar. The Chinese seemed to think my linguistic attempts were extremely funny - simple phrases (from my tourist guide book) producing howls of laughter. I was never sure if it was my pronunciation or that some wit had amused himself by thinking up amusing things for dumb Westeners (like me) to say. - probably both
|Thread: Creating your own scale drawings|
Buffer, I think we are all of a similar mind here but some further thoughts for what they are worth....
For my models, I prefer to have factory drawings if possible but sometimes work from other sources, for example small scale drawings or artwork that were published in trade or modelling magazines. Modelling older British railway prototypes, they will have originally been made to Imperial dimensions but when trying to measure something from a drawing, it's often hard to determine the exact dimension.
However, for many parts you can be fairly certain that the builder didn't use an odd size (unless there was a good reason for it) so if I measure something that looks like it's 5 1/2" - I'll probably decide that it was 6". Or if a wagon side has 5 planks and seems to be 37-38" high - I might decide it is really 40" because it's more likely that the builder used 8" planks (rather than 7.5" ones). Not sure I've explained this very well but I hope you get the general idea. I find it's harder to make these judgements with scaled parts. I should mention that I'm just getting the 'larger picture' at this point - marking where bolt holes etc will go but not adding the actual bolt etc.
Having got the full-sized drawing(s) of the larger bits, I then scale the part (in my case by a factor of 22.6) and make any adjustments required. For wagon stock, I have a pretty good idea of what full-size screw fittings (bolts heads etc) were used to hold the various different parts together - and what their scaled size is. I have tables of things like pre-war Whitworth bolts/heads (scaled from full size down to G3) and also generally know what kind of screw sizes etc I'll be using (e.g. small BA generally).
So I guess in summary, I draw the larger parts to full-sized scale, marking the position of fittings but probably not adding them at this stage. I then scale the drawing down and add in the fine detail afterwards, intending to use known parts & materials that match the requirement. It's certainly not perfect science but gives reasonably good results for my rolling stock.
Hope this helps sow some ideas. The best way to find out what works for your particular 'job' is to draw/design a part of it and see if the end result makes you happy. If it doesn't - redo it until you find a method that does - then do everything else. Better to get your process/method up to scratch right at the beginning, rather than spend a lot of time getting half way through and then deciding that you need to start all over. Unfortunately, I speak from recent experience....
|Thread: Model boiler safety calculations|
Yes, of course model boilers are unlikely to explode Dave - because they are designed (over-engineered) not to.
But don't under estimate the ability of a small minority to do dumb things given the opportunity. I often hear folk raging on about the 'dumbness' of the current boiler regulations and why they don't make sense for 'this' or 'that' reason. They seem to miss the key point that (these days) it is crucial to have Public Lability Insurance. My Society became Incorporated (a Limited Company) a few years ago, simply because it helped to lessen (but not remove) the liability risks that Society Members (potentially 'Partners' previously) might otherwise be subject to, should an accident occur.
That accident of course is not limited to a boiler explosion, in many ways that is the least worry. I have seen a large live steam loco nearly exit a high level track with a child sitting under it's path. Fortunately, it didn't come completely off (just overhanging) but it would have certainly done harm if it had. In these ambulance chasing times, a compensation claim would have been a high possibility.
What's this got to do with the Boiler code? Well there is only one insurance company here in the UK that will 'actually' provide Clubs/Societies with insurance cover (try getting it anywhere else in practice) and they have accepted the Orange Book as the necessary guidance in this area. It's been negotiated between the various parties involved and is a pragmatic solution to the problem. If they required all boilers to be painted with polka dots - it would be simpler to just do it than risk not being insured for public liability.
Of course none of this applies to anyone operating a boiler in a private setting but should an accident occur (of any kind) then they'd need to be very sure that their private insurance covered them.
So let's be clear. Society/Club boiler Inspectors make sure that the boilers they examine (within the scope of their competence) are safe for use within the given guidance. In doing so - they are not trying to work on the limits of engineering safety but within the limits of established practice set by practical experience. Their work is well documented and is therefore an important part in demonstrating good faith/observance of the contract made between the modelling organisation and the Insurer.
All this refers to the 'smaller' boilers generally covered by the UK's Orange Book. Anyone contemplating designing/building larger pressure vessels (steel boilers for instance) clearly need both professional help with design, build and test.
Btw - a Shell Test to 2 x WP done properly (e.g. the pressure is increased in gradual stages) should have no adverse effect on the working life of that boiler.
I attended one of the Southern Feds Boiler Inspector seminars a few years back. They provided guidance 'notes' in this area which I think may be sufficient for your needs. Most boilers are inspected on the basis that they are a "recognised" design (e.g. one that's been published) - and of course they are normally over-spec'd anyway.
If you'd like a copy of the notes, I'll scan them for you (assuming that I can find them). Please PM me.
|Thread: Not the only president causing problems.|
Made a mental note of the spring tempering method Dave, will try it when the time comes - good idea, thank you.
Lovely casting for the pony truck too.
|Thread: Files - what do I need to know|
Hard to give exact purchasing directions - but as general guidance
That's about all I can tell you. I still can't file as well as I can machine things and probably never will but sometimes you have no real choice but to file something and then it's much better to have a good quality tool to do it with.
|Thread: Not the only president causing problems.|
Coming along Dave
|Thread: Arduino CNC|
Neither had Michael - but I found this summary more useful than much of the stuff on YT.
I also noted that they are recommending going to a 32bit GRBL (not Arduino) - which I had already looked at a little - at least a version that runs on the (infamous) STM32 based "Blue Pill" - of which I already have several ( they used to be about £2 each).
Most of the bCNC videos on YT seem to be focused on PCB production but it seems capable of much more. Of course, I'd need a CNC machine first...
Edited By IanT on 13/01/2021 17:20:50
|Thread: Interesting shaper-Newey|
OK - you will be able to find it at the bottom of this page. Been a bit cheeky and used the G3S website.
It will be there for a few days - or until I do the next update....
Sorry about that - I normally test my my links but obviously not this morning.
I don't seem to be able to post PDFs here - so I'll see if I can find an alternative...
For anyone interested in the 'Shapemaster' - someone on one of the shaper groups found this link, which gives more detail of the specification. It has some unusual table tilting features but having no 'knee' may be a little limited in cutter height adjustment/clearance.
|Thread: Interest in pictures of models|
"the same as Cherry's, but nowhere as good."
Very few peoples are... including mine!
|Thread: Not the only president causing problems.|
Always good to see a 2.5" engine getting restored Dave. I'm sure you've already found this but the B&O Museum has this reference:
|Thread: Interesting shaper-Newey|
Went to have a peek at the Newey (pricey but I guess it depends on it's condition) - and spotted this smaller machine
Not heard of them before. It appears they were made by an American company (Young Engineering Labs) based in St Paul (Minn) - but the seller is here in the UK.
As always - Caveat Emptor!
|Thread: 1/2'' scale drawing sources|
When I joined the Gauge '3' Society, there were no RTR engines and very few wagon kits. It was a 'scratch builders' scale and very much based on large live steam engines (often LBSC designs) - so you either built your own engine, purchased second-user or commissioned one (and waited two-three years for delivery).
These days we have a very wide range of ready to run engines in both live steam and battery electric, kits to build the same (Barrett Live Steam Models J65 is now available in G3) but 'scratch-building' is still very much a part of our Members activities. Many of these members are also members of the N2.5GA - and run their locomotives in 'Driver Hauling' mode at their Rallies as well as at Society GTGs.
But quite apart from G3 Live Steam engines there are also some very nice models being built from a more traditional Railway Modeller perspective. G3 is very good when modelling early Victorian Railways for instance, because they were quite small locomotives and lend themselves to detailing, which G3 enables. But we do seem to be attracting some very good 'scale' modellers from the smaller gauges too. Good examples of both can be found on Western Thunder - but I like this GWR Saddle Tank as an example of the fine work folk are doing in G3 these days.
For myself, I own a 'vintage' coal-fired G3 GNR Atlantic (so I guess that counts as RTR) but everything else has been (or hopefully will) scratch built. Whether I will ever finish my main 'G3' project ('Hyperion' - LNER 3-cylinder A3 Pacific) remains to be seen - I do some work, re-do it, go away (and do something else) and then come back again. So whilst I'm not the best model engineer in the Society (or the most productive one by a long chalk) I'm afraid - scratch building both live steam and other models in Gauge 3 is still very much alive and well.
Although you could also just buy a Kingscale 'Britannia' instead I guess!
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