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Member postings for IanT

Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Collets
30/11/2014 14:14:26

I have a variety of both C5 and ER32 tooling Barry.

All that Jason says above is correct and is an objective view. My (very subjective) view is a little more nuanced.

Generally I use ER32 to both hold work and tooling, which they do well within their limits - which I am unlikely to exceed I might add. I have a number of ER32 collet chucks - both back-plate mounted and on MT tapers and a full metric collet set (plus a few Imperial ones that are at the lower end of the metric 'closing' size). This generally suits my size of equipment (both lathes and mills) all of which have MT tapers ranging from MT1 to MT3 - although I use an ER32 back-plate mounted chuck for the MT1 lathe.

I also have a 5C spin indexer and the JS 5C 'blocks' plus some home made 5C holders. So generally my 5C bits are just used for work holding and indexing. I have a few accessories that I've made to be held in them (3 jaw chuck, small faceplate). I only have a few 5C collets but as these are generally for larger/awkward work holding - I don't need too many as I always have the JS ER32 '5C adaptor' as a get out of jail option..

This all might sound very complicated but was really a matter of workshop evolution. I started out with a simple 5C collet holder for the mill and then acquired the spin indexer - and I think this was all before 'ER' was generally affordable. At that time I was using MT tapered collet holders but when ER started to be more commonly available (at a price I wanted to pay) I decided to standardise on ER32.

If I was starting over - I would chose ER32 as my 'primary' work and tool holding system as it works well for the range of equipment I have and for the work that I do. However, I do believe that 5C is potentially the more robust (heavier duty) and more versatile system (particularly on larger machinery) and that for some (very occasional) applications it would still be my preferred choice.

So, without knowing the size of your equipment (or the work that you want to do with it) it is hard to say but for most "hobbyists" I think an ER based system would meet the majority of their needs.

Regards,

IanT

Thread: Where to start?
19/11/2014 12:27:35

Well Robert - I am old (ish) and somewhat "windy" these days (well OK very windy) but I can assure you that I haven't worn tweed or smoked a pipe for well over 50 years - when they were required "accessories" for touring pubs on a Sunday in my mates MG A.

And I have never, ever touched a Xylophone either!!

IanT

 

PS Especially not a Chinese one!

Edited By IanT on 19/11/2014 12:31:21

Thread: Issue 222
19/11/2014 11:07:22

Nice box Roderick - how big is it?

And whilst this is "Wood working" - it is something I'd be unlikely to find in the more traditional wood working magazines, not least because they would normally have (and use) more conventional woodworking tools to do this - unlike us more 'ferrously' inclined individuals.

IanT

Edited By IanT on 19/11/2014 11:11:57

19/11/2014 11:00:06

I have a large collection of ME's (and I'm only missing a few early MEWs) and they are a wonderful reference library

There are often things in the latest issue of ME or MEW that I don't read that deeply but I really do enjoy getting old issues out and looking through them for things of interest.

Although my "general" interests haven't changed that much over quite a long period now - my specific interests most certainly do. A case in point would be the 'Stent' cutter grinder and other CG material, I acquired a part machined set of Stent castings not too long ago and the first thing I did was to fish out all the Stent material I could find. I then went on to look at the Clarkson G/G material - and then some of the Quorn articles.

My understanding of the options available has been significantly improved and I will undoubtedly build a different tool as a result (reversed motor mount, Quorn spindle, mods to standard tool holder and maybe a few custom ones too)

I've also discovered that even material that apparently has nothing of interest to me - often actually does have extremely useful little nuggets - ideas that can be applied to things I am very interested in.

So I would suggest to ME/MEW readers that they take a longer view of the content made available to them.

As for Router Tables Neil.....

Well I have quite a few good DIY designs (from sources like Fine Woodworking etc) but in fact own a cheap (Lidl) Router Table that can do most of my (cruder) wood work. But attachments and other fittings to turn a 'basic' Router table into a much more precise tool would be welcome.

Specialist tools for the "smaller" modeller (in wood) would also interest me. This area is largely ignored by the mainstream 'Wood Working' mags. and frankly most of the commercial attachments for Dremel-like tools (plunge bases, router tables etc) are almost unusable for the precision cutting of small wooden parts - as I'm sure any Modeller or 'Miniaturist' (of Ships, Furniture, Farm Wagons, Trams, Railway Carriages etc) will probably tell you ...

So in summary - ME/MEW is a wonderful reference library that has provided me with much reading & browsing enjoyment over many years.

In terms of what goes into them - whether the tools or techniques relate to metal or wood - I don't really mind but I do particularly like to see details of things that I either a) cannot find in other magazines - or b) tools that I cannot buy commercially at all or are so expensive that I can't afford (or justify) them.

Seems pretty simple to me - but fortunately I'm not the Editor! smiley

(And of course - you & Diane can only publisah what you receive - which does seem to get overlooked by some....)

Regards,

 

IanT

Edited By IanT on 19/11/2014 11:04:27

19/11/2014 00:23:41

I try to ask my wife as little as possible JS - as I find that I'm often not so keen on her replies.

Also, I can no longer claim total ignorance of her thoughts on the matter either- always a perilous position to get yourself into...

IanT

PS I very much enjoyed the last MEW Neil! laugh

Thread: arduino uses ?
17/11/2014 18:03:41

Careful Bazyle - you just mentioned the "Forth" word and if you are not careful you will be damned to the blackest hole of Programmers Hell for even thinking it !!

Of course, you will probably find me already there when you arrive. wink

Regards,

IanT

17/11/2014 10:55:18

I've just downloaded the free Processing book (as a PDF) Michael - very interesting intro to the language (and how to use it to talk to an Arduino too).

Thank you for the link.

Regards,

IanT

15/11/2014 23:48:51

Haven't seen this site before Michael - so I will look at it when I'm a bit more awake (it's past my bedtime).

But yes - I understand 'Processing' was the basis for the Ardunio 'language' and it seems to be a very useable (PC based) system for interacting with them (to build graphical and audio interfaces for instance). However, I think any high level language could probably be used to talk to an Arduino system via a serial (USB) link. I used Forth (Win32Forth) but others may prefer using C or Basic - whatever their preferred programming language is.

Regards,

ianT .

Thread: Cutting Sheet Brass
13/11/2014 20:25:29

Or you could use a jigsaw and a guide like this guy Phil...although I think I'd make the gap narrower on mine

**LINK**

Regards,

IanT

Thread: arduino uses ?
12/11/2014 18:37:36

The Arduino is certainly open source Howard and you can obtain 'Arduino' compatible products from various other manufacturers in different formats and with different specifications. However, I think I am correct in saying that the "Uno R3" is a specific Arduino product only produced in Italy by the Ardunio organisation - it is in effect their "Branded" Arduino product.

So what you call "clones" are really products that are 'passing themselves off' as being (not just "Arduinos" ) but also "Uno R3's" - when they are in fact not.

Now this may not be a problem in practice for many people who buy these clones but it does appear to be the case that not all "clones" are built to the same quality (this is according to user comments elsewhere) and there is no real way to know exactly what you will get when you order a "clone".

So I stand by my statement that if you are buying from a UK supplier, then use one of the official Arduino ones - or you may get a clone when you could have had the genuine article. Of course, if you decide to buy directly from HK, then you can be very sure that it will be a clone and you pays your money and takes your chance.

Regards,

 

IanT

Edited By IanT on 12/11/2014 18:38:12

11/11/2014 13:58:25

The reason I suggested buying from an 'authorised' dealer - is that as far as I can see the price is pretty much the same but the quality is a lot more certain. If you look on Amazon for instance - you will see reviews where people thought they were buying the "genuine" Uno R3 - but it was in fact a clone and there are comments about the differences in components being used and the poor quality of soldering.

I'm not sure what is in the Maplin 'kit' but it sounds expensive (£80?). The kind of 'breadboard' I'm talking about can be purchased for very little money, as can the jump leads. Something like this...

**LINK**

If you need guidance, then there is plenty online for free but once you get beyond a certain point then perhaps a reference book might be useful - I have this one and find it very useful:

**LINK**

I don't have any 'Shields' at this point - so my total 'hardware' costs are about £25 (£30 tops) - plus the book when I wanted something handy to have on holiday (no Internet available) at under £20 at that time. So my 'Starter' kit has cost under £50 and has been purchased in stages.

My suggestion would be to get the Uno - do the basic programming exercises, then start to connect it to simple circuits (via the breadboard) and learn a little simple electronics. Then once you are really up and running - decide what kind of more sophisticated connections you might want/need and whether the Uno is up to the job. Maybe you might decide you need a "Mega" or something else more powerful - and the accessories that go with it.

Regards,

IanT

11/11/2014 08:57:56

Hi Martin,

To learn with, just a basic Arduino 'Uno' R3 will be quite satisfactory. Mine came with a micro-USB cable. This is all you need to get started but once underway a breadboard and a few LEDs and other components will help you play around in the real world.

As there is little difference in price, it pays to buy the real thing (and not a clone) in my view - if only for the build quality. A number of people distribute them in UK, such as these people;

**LINK**

It cost's £18.65 (inc VAT) here, which is about the right price (you may find it slightly cheaper but I haven't checked). Assuming the USB cable comes with it, then that's all you need to get started. Just download the free development software and start programming it. The boxed unit is smaller than a pack of cards and is powered off the PC - so I take mine on holiday (something to do when away from the workshop) - Much better than Sudoku!

Regards,

IanT

Thread: LBSC Doris
10/11/2014 20:08:57

Ok, well if you need help with the articles Richard, let me know.

I model in Gauge '3' myself and all my engines are "movable" too! wink

Regards,

IanT

10/11/2014 17:06:51

Actually Richard - just tried this myself and the material I remembered being there - isn't any more.

PM me with the ME articles that you actually have - and I will see whether I have the later ones for you.

I'm not sure whether this is a good "first project" (or not) but if you are only going to build one engine and are prepared to take your time, then perhaps you should try to build something that you actually like. You are then much more likely to persevere with the project but be prepared for a long old journey...

Regards,

IanT

10/11/2014 16:43:00

Suggest you Google "LBSC Doris Locomotive" and see what turns up Richard.

IanT

Thread: Shaper problem
10/11/2014 10:00:16

Must admit Rik, to me a "Jib" is something I'd expect to find on a sailing boat

But I wouldn't lose any sleep about it - I knew what you were talking about and I'm pretty sure so did everyone else here. Of course, I stand to be "Corrected"

smiley

Regards,

IanT

Thread: Roller combined shear and press brake
10/11/2014 09:52:09

Well Brian - hopefully you didn't pay too much for your 3-in-1 machine and are very happy with your new purchase.

My advice generally (to others) would be think carefully whether you really need this type of tool and also will it be capable of the work you require of it. The general consensus seems to be that they do need some tweeking to get the best use out of them.

However (like so many things "Home Machinist" ) these machines can be brought up to a usable standard (whatever "usable" is in your terms) and will give you a much better head start than trying to build something from scratch. I know that some people prefer to have separate tools for each these functions but workshop space is now at a premium and (given it's very occasional use) for me it's a good compromise. I have a long (long) list of projects and the shears could be very useful for some of them, so perhaps that will motivate me into giving my 3-in-1 a bit of a 'tune-up'.

Good luck with yours..

Regards,

 

IanT

Edited By IanT on 10/11/2014 09:52:49

09/11/2014 18:53:26

Yes, a 3-in1 Machine.

I have something very similar from Warco, purchased a few years ago now. To be honest, I haven't used it that much (just the 'rollers' a couple of times). I tried the 'shears' but wasn't too impressed - although I understand that (with careful set-up) they will cut thin materials well enough - but nothing too heavy. Haven't needed the benders at all (just use two metal bars and a hammer in best bodging mode!)

There's a similar machine here - and perhaps more usefully - a PDF Manual for it that should be useful

**LINK**

Good luck.

IanT

Thread: metal lathe
07/11/2014 22:59:57

You don't say want you want/need it for Terry but generally the larger the better.

I have an old and somewhat battered Super 7 but I wouldn't recommend a beginner goes for one. You can get a "bargain" but how would you know it was a good 'en? Mine was a wreck that Charles Moore decided wasn't worth his while restoring - so I've spent the past 10 years (?) or so doing the odd thing to it. It's still not as "good as new" - and most likely never will be - although I've grown fond of it and can do work good enough for my needs on it.

However, generally, I would suggest that most people acquire a lathe to actually make something on it and not to spend time fixing it up. I am probably quite odd in that respect - because I enjoy taking these things to bits and trying to get them back together again. But it's not for most people.

Decide what size of lathe you need and save your pennies for a new one - at least until you know enough to look for something "better" - and by then you may know enough to understand what "better" means to you personally (it's different for different people).

Regards,

 

IanT

Edited By IanT on 07/11/2014 23:01:36

Thread: Shaper problem
07/11/2014 22:38:35

I think this is the most likely explanation Rik.

However, a word to owners of other Shaper makes - not all Shapers have this 'feature' - I'm pretty sure my Atlas 7" doesn't for instance - and damage could well result if you 'overdrive' the table.

IanT

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