By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for IanT

Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Parting On a Hobby Lathe
03/01/2015 10:39:24

Parting seems to be a very personal preference thing - everyone has different views. I can part 2" mild steel with ease on my (somewhat worn) S7 with one of these....

Myford rear toolpost.jpg

I think there are two main factors that really help - one is the rear mounting of the tool and the other (and perhaps most important) is the shape of the tool tip - which is curved. It curls the chip in on itself and helps avoid jams in the deep groove being formed. They just fall out underneath the work.

In the main, I prefer to use HSS tools but this is one of the exceptions, simply because of the tool point geometry. I still use HSS parting tools from the front post for smaller diameters but (for all but the smallest diameters & tube) I tend to cut in stages, pulling the tool back, moving it over and widening the gap before going in any deeper. This works well enough but is a fiddle and care is needed to get a usable finish on the back of the work. Of course, you have to get as near the chuck as possible and extend the tool no more than absolutely necessary (essential if your machine is less than 100% 'rigid'  ).

GHT advises how to 'shape' the tips of HSS parting tools in his workshop book but the inserted tips make it so much easier to get the tip geometry just right - and with the above set-up, I can part off with one long cut.




Edited By IanT on 03/01/2015 10:40:37

Edited By JasonB on 03/01/2015 13:21:51

Thread: cz metal bender
03/01/2015 09:26:28

Now you're just trying to cheer me up (aren't you?)


02/01/2015 23:58:20

Mmmn - I paid a bit more than that for the one that's just been delivered here - and mine's in a plastic box too (that metal one does look a wee bit nicer).

I've also just seen the "review" (link posted above by Ady1).... I wasn't planning to abuse (e.g. stretch) it, so hopefully it will be OK. It did take the shine off things a bit though... I think I'll just go to bed now (sniff)



Thread: Using BBQ Propane gas with Bullfinch 404 Propane Torch?
29/12/2014 22:31:44

Thanks Les - I'll check before I buy anything.



29/12/2014 15:16:34

Thanks for all the feedback everyone.

My cylinder is a fairly large green steel one (and weighs a ton!) that came as part of the deal with the BBQ. Although the BBQ stays outside under its cover - I always detach the cylinder and store it on the garden shed (upright on a small sack trolley).

I've been on domestic duties so far today (post Christmas clean up - trips to Tip etc.) but will go and look at it again later. I'm pretty certain the regulator is on the BBQ hose end (rather than the cylinder) and assuming it's a straight through connection - a £10 "clip-on" adaptor sounds like the best solution as opposed to another £50 odd for a new propane cylinder (deposit & gas).

If I understand Clive's posting correctly, I can just "nut" the adaptor up to the existing Bullfinch 4-bar regulator & hose and leave it on there permanently. No one will be using the torch except myself and I'm not going to be unscrewing anything whilst it's still attached to the cylinder that's for sure!

If I was starting from scratch, I would probably get a "proper" (red) propane cylinder and use screw-on type regulators (as I understand the propane gas might be cheaper that way) but I'm not and I don't use that much gas either. I do have other gas appliances but they are either butane based or use disposable bottles. So the Bullfinch and BBQ are going to be the only appliances that will need the propane cylinder in the foreseeable future and the adaptor does seem the easiest/cheapest route...

Thanks again for your thoughts on this - I will report back when I finally get this sorted out and have tried the Bullfinch out.



28/12/2014 21:00:43

Santa bought me a very nice Bullfinch 404 Autotorch Brazing Kit for Christmas (despite me being on the naughty list too Neil !). This seems the best way to 'hobby' braze without the cost and hassle of Oxy-Acetylene, which I found very useful when I learned to use it on a welding course a few years back.

The torch comes with a 4 bar regulator (type 4041) that has a screw-type connector (5/8 BSP - LH Male POL). Currently, the only propane cylinder I have is a large 'green' one that was purchased to power our gas BBQ. It has a form of quick connector.

Is there a safe way to use the existing 'green' propane cylinder with the Bullfinch torch & regulator? Some form of adaptor or perhaps by simply fitting a new 'quick' 4-bar regulator to the Bullfinch?

I know the simple answer is to buy another Propane cylinder (a red one?) but that's another heavy cylinder to store, move around and keep topped up. I'm assuming here that the 'green' propane is just that - "Propane" (and not some watered down propane/butane mix?)

Any advice most appreciated.



Thread: wheel quartering
23/12/2014 09:58:03

Hi Geoff,

Martin Baker published some useful information about this subject here;


Unfortunately, he didn't seem to have too much information in this respect about the Caledonian Railway (e.g. for a Rob Roy for instance).

However, right-hand lead seems to have generally been the norm.



Thread: Myford Vertical Slide on to Colchester Student
22/12/2014 10:32:31

PS - my largest vertical slide does has a "rotary" base (but no tilt) but I cannot recall needing a tilt facility. Generally I am more concerned about getting the vertical slide square to the cross-slide movement. As another comment, I also feel that my Asian-made vertical slide is a lot more robust (e.g. solid) than the smaller Myford ones I've seen - so unless you already have the Myford vs, I would certainly consider other alternatives  

However, I do have other machine tools available these days, so a rotate/tilt facility on the vertical slide might be more important/useful to anyone in a strictly lathe-only workshop. As always depends on what you need/want to do.




Edited By IanT on 22/12/2014 10:43:02

22/12/2014 10:18:16

No one seems to have replied to you Hamish - probably because no one has tried this on a Colchester Student.

Well - I haven't either but I have fitted vertical slides to all of my lathes via the use of adaptor plates. This was partially because none of the vertical slides being used would fit directly to the cross-slides (even on the Myford S7 my Asian V/S didn't match the T-slots) - so the plates meant I didn't have to hack the lathe or slides about.

However, the other reason (in one case where I could have used the top-slide mount) was that the slide would have been off-set too much and I wanted the slide to be in the centre of the cross-slide movement. Once you have made the plate, you may also find other uses for it (mounting a travelling steady, drill/angle plates etc.)

One other benefit of using a mounting plate on "lighter" lathes is that bolting up accessories 'tight' doesn't tend to distort the cross-slide quite so much either (which was the case on my smallest lathe) - although this probably wouldn't be a concern on a Colchester.

Anyway - some things to consider. Hope this helps



Thread: Diamond tool holder.??
22/12/2014 09:48:06

I always understood that the top-slide should be set over at half the thread angle Chris

But then I started watching the videos of Marc Lecuyer (The Lazy Machinist in Canada) on YouTube and as a result (in future) I will be setting my top-slide at just under half the thread angle.

His explanation is that setting slightly "under" does no harm to the thread form but setting "over" (even slightly) does and that because it is quite hard to set exactly on the half angle - it's much better to set it "under". He goes through this in some detail here;


The rest of his videos are also very well worth watching by the way.



Thread: Who might have made this?
10/12/2014 18:30:13

Always educational Michael - thank you.



Thread: drill speed reducer
09/12/2014 23:30:43

Not suggesting you look for one Lee - but reading your post, I was minded of the really old geared (hand-driven) bench drills I used to have (still got the smaller one under the bench somewhere thinking about it).

The big one had two gear settings and an auto-down feeder on it - and with a sharp drill in it, it would chew through steel plate quite steadily (partly I suspect simply because you couldn't turn it too fast). I don't recall it being that much hard work either (I was a bit fitter back then). The small one I've still got somewhere - it just has a simple screw down-feed - but it could still drill big 'oles pretty well. I guess they were probably agricultural or blacksmiths tools but they worked.

No good for the smaller drilling work I mostly do these days of course - but they were still better for some jobs than the old Black & Decker electric hand drill that was my only alternative for a while...and they drilled 'perpendicular' too which was a bit of an advantage...



Thread: Should you really get the biggest lathe possible?
08/12/2014 10:12:17

Not too fashionable these days but anyone with a horizontal mill already has a device that can potentially turn large diameter, short pieces Michael - you just need an extended tool holder to mount on the table.

Someone had an article in MEW (I think it was?) about doing exactly this a year or two ago. I guess you could also use a vertical mill in a similar way (a vertical lathe?) if you were really pushed to machine a large circumference (i.e. an 'edge'  ) but not nearly so easy (or robust in most cases) as using a horizontal.


Edited By IanT on 08/12/2014 10:12:46

Thread: Soldering/brazing a boiler.
06/12/2014 10:56:27

I think it's just a matter of convenience Brian.

For me it often depends at what time of day I finish doing the work. If it's late then I do leave things overnight so they are ready for the next day but if it's earlier - then I do tend to fish them out quicker but mainly to see what they are looking like. I don't think I've had any problems by leaving things in for longer but I wouldn't just leave work 'soaking' for very long periods though.



Thread: Which chuck to buy for first lathe ?
06/12/2014 09:58:43

At the risk of stating the blindingly obvious Brian - just about any chuck will hold work very accurately provided that you can take a truing cut. For a lot of the small work I do, I often have to bring the work down to some known dimension anyway (I (re)use lot's of "scrap" material) so the 3 jaw is perfectly good enough for this and convenient to use. The 4 jaw independent gets put on mainly for second operation work where I need to clock the work back true or where I need a much better grip or for eccentric work.

Much of this also boils down to thinking a little ahead and planning your work (something I frequently forget to do I'm afraid - and I often end up having to do all sorts of work 'arounds' as a result!). So if you have some small wheels to machine (for instance) then get them all faced and bored before you make a mandrel to do the treads - because once the mandrel is turned in-situ - it will run absolutely true provided you don't take it out the chuck.

Jason believes the Sherline 3-jaw is pretty accurate anyway - so that sounds like a good way to go to me.



Thread: Progress No.1 Drill
04/12/2014 16:23:47

These are nice solid drills Keith - but very heavy for their size (the cast iron belt cover doesn't help either).

I had a No. 1 for a while but mine had a Jacobs taper nose fitted - with (I think) a 3/8th Jacobs chuck. I gave it away to a friends' son when I acquired a used Warco MT2 drill (12 speed). I have several sizes of MT2 drill chucks I use with it, so that's useful. The table 'rise and fall' rack is also very good when I have heavier things mounted on the table (compounds for instance) and I can crank them up and down - but otherwise I'm pretty sure I could have lived quite happily with the Progress.

Nice machine - enjoy.



Thread: Super 7B clutch & serial number
04/12/2014 15:51:25

Hi Richard - there are basically two clutch types on the Super 7 and if you can give us a clue as to which you might have then it would obviously help.

On older machines the serial number is on the rear shear (at the tailstock end) but later ones had it on the front of the bed at the left end of the rack. If you can find the serial number - we can identify the clutch type - the new cone clutch was fitted from SK8128.

If you still cannot find the serial No - there are other simple indicators of your lathes age - like how is the front bearing oiled? Do you (for instance) have a little window on the front of the headstock through which you can see the oil dripping?



Thread: Chinese lathe/mill tools
04/12/2014 14:18:55

I should probably start out by stating that some (if not most) people seem quite happy with the quality of their Asian equipment these days Colin.

I think that the general quality does seem to have improved over the years, mainly (I suspect) due to the combined efforts of both the main UK importers and the larger Asian manufacturers. This is just an impression of mine but I wouldn't hesitate to recommend a new Asian machine to my friends if it was capable to meeting their needs, Of course, I should state that generally I only own "old iron" but this isn't because of poor Asian quality per se. Perhaps the best way to explain this apparent contradiction is that what "I do "is somewhat similar to running "classic" cars. I do it because I want to - not because there's anything particularly wrong with the new machinery (or modern cars...)

However, when you get down to the smaller tooling "bits" there can still be quite a mix of quality available in my view. I mainly buy from the better known UK suppliers for this reason - relying on them to use reasonably good manufacturers themselves. If you do buy from eBay or similar - then I think it's a bit more 'pot luck'.

So my answer to your question is a qualified - yes - the Asian products are good enough for most peoples needs - but use a trusted source. Having said all that, there are still a few things where it is worth paying more and getting a good brand - hacksaw blades immediately come to mind for instance!

Hope this helps a (little) bit. I'm also sure others will have different views to mine. smiley



Thread: Centre punch
04/12/2014 09:57:55

Yes please Roy - I'm familiar with drill bushes but haven't seen one with an eyepiece before. Should be easy to make except perhaps for the actual 'centreing' eyepiece itself - Perspex rod polished in some way?


Thread: Myford kill switch
03/12/2014 18:40:11

This simple NVR switch from Axminster seems to work OK on my old Super Seven - just over £15.00 so won't break the bank either and easily replaceable if needed.



nvr switch 2 - 150812.jpg

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Support Our Partners
Eccentric July 5 2018
Rapid RC
Eccentric Engineering
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest