Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Some sort of ratcheting hand drill|
My starting pay in HM Armed forces was 10 shillings a week (50p) Harry - but it was "all found"
So you got paid on Thursday (hold out left hand, receive cash and paybook, shout "Pay & Paybook correct Sir!", step smartly back and salute) - went out that night and were broke come Friday morning but at least you had your food and bed for the week!
|Thread: internal integral keyway machining ??|
Seems an odd way to design it but a male key inside a bore could be cut with a shaper and an indexing device.
I've not done it myself but I'm pretty sure it's possible - the real question is why would you want to do it like that, as it's a lot more work than a normal slot and key arrangement?
|Thread: Magazine Storage|
Perhaps a magazine binder (to hold 12 months issues) as an alternative to the other "free" subscription gifts might suit some people?
|Thread: Lathe Milling Attachment - Disadvantages?|
However, to answer your question Nick - for others who might be interested - the answer is that the main disadvantages are the size (especially length) of work you can easily mill on the vertical slide and the rigidity of the vertical slide (when compared to using the table of a mill).
As others have also mentioned - it can also be a bit more awkward to see what is going on and does also need careful planning in work flow terms - as it takes time to mount the slide and set it up between turning operations.
So obviously - having a mill (as well as a lathe) is to be preferred if you have the means to do so but for some years I managed quite well without a mill - as did many well known modellers in years past, when they didn't generally have the money and/or affordable kit that we have today.
However my modelling work is generally small (an advantage of working in a smaller gauge by the way) and so I think is also a factor in this decision. I now own two mills, both horizontals but fitted with vertical heads. The larger one gets used mainly for my workshop projects (rather than my modelling) though.
So if you can accommodate a mill - then obviously it's nice to have access to one - but they are by no means essential. Even these days I will sometimes use the vertical slide on my small (indoor) lathe rather than have to go and set up one of the mills and clean it down afterwards. It doesn't take me that long to mount the slide and fit a milling cutter.
|Thread: Hogging out on a shaper|
I agree Robjon - a perfectly safe machine - unless of course you are tempted to touch that nice shiny surface you are in the process of cutting - just to make sure it feels as smooth as it looks.
Then it could be quite nasty - but as long as you can resist this temptation - then all will be well. Any machine can be potentially dangerous if not treated with respect.
PS - That's at least three Acorntools 7" I've seen mentioned here recently. Did you get the nice Acorntools cast side panel with yours??
|Thread: Clarkson Autolock chucks 40int are they worth selling|
Lot's of old threaded cutters out there Neil - you just need to be able to sharpen them, as many have seen a good deal of use by the time they do come along.
I have an MT2 Clarkson 'S' that I use in preference to my ER32 chucks where possible - but in fact I've never had an ER slip on me yet - but I guess I don't push them too much either.
This has just reminded me though - I have an Int. 30 Clarkson 'S' somewhere that I don't use. Must dig it out and flog it.
|Thread: lathe books.|
To start with Gareth - "The Amateurs Lathe" by Sparey - and later on (once a bit more experienced) "The Model Engineers workshop Manual" by Geo Thomas.
If you only have these two books - you will not go too far wrong.
|Thread: Lathe collet chuck size|
I have ER32 chuck & backplate combinations (from Arc) for both my Myford S7 and EW lathes Maurice.
I find them very useful but I would choose the smallest diameter ER32 chuck you can find - as under some circumstances the extra clearance provided might be useful. On the EW I turned the backplate down to match the chuck - I cannot remember offhand what sizes they are - but the smaller the chuck diameter the better I would suggest. I did wonder whether an ER32 chuck would be too large for the 2.5" EW but it's just fine - and I have quite a few ER32 accessories now - it is very useful to standardise on a collet size if you can
Edited By IanT on 18/04/2015 23:01:29
Well - It seems to confuse a lot of people Robbo.
One way to think of it - is that all full sized engines were built to the same "scale" (e.g. 12" to 1 foot) but that they ran on a number of different track "gauges" (e.g. standard, narrow and broad gauges). The two measures are quite different really.
For any railway model to be accurate in scale terms there should be a close relationship between the 'scale' used to build the model and the track 'gauge' it is going to run on (or be associated with)
"16mm" is simply a catchall expression to describe narrow gauge models that generally run on 32mm or 45mm track - but the prototype N/G gauges varied somewhat, so 16mm engines tend to be very much scale approximations in many cases.
In Gauge '3' - we model standard gauge prototypes on 2.5" track, so there is not the same room for any confusion - the scale ratio is very clearly 1:22.6.
As perhaps an interesting aside (?) when I used paper & pencil to draw my models, I worked to 13.5mm to the foot to convert things to "scale" - very close but not exact. Now I use CAD - I can draw at "full size" and then scale everything exactly using a ratio of 1 to 22.6.
I was involved last year (with other G3S members) in developing a low-cost G3 battery electric 'Sentinel' kit. I did all the CAD work for it and it was quite pleasing somehow to be able to tell people at the AGM that it was built "exactly to scale" (OK - I'll admit small things do please me)
|Thread: Hogging out on a shaper|
Mark - as you will already know the Shaper is very good at cleaning up old metal - partly because it uses cheap tooling (that can be quickly re-sharpened) but also because it will tackle stuff (crud, hard spots, pitting) that would make many mills have a fit. I have quite a stock of well rusted lumps sitting down my Shed waiting for redemption.
And of course those who tell me "Shapers are too slow and simply obsolete these days" forget that I can be using my shaper to clean up materials in the background whilst I potter around with something else nearby. I certainly don't try that with my mills or lathes. So apart from a few watts and possibly a bit of wear and tear - the Shaper is ideal for this kind of 'background' task.
Inside every old flat iron, sash weight or skip find - there's a bit of brand new gleaming stock metal just waiting to appear!
|Thread: Myford lead screw|
The graduated one on the lead-screw can be used to feed the saddle much more accurately than the carriage wheel Eric (which is used to fast move the carriage when the lead-screw is dis-engaged)
For anyone with lathes that do not have a graduated handle on the lead-screw, this is a very useful facility - especially if you either do not have a top-slide fitted at the time or cannot use it for any reason.
Edited By IanT on 18/04/2015 09:31:53
In terms of taking a full size "drawing" and scaling it (for instance for traction or stationary engines) - Michael's "to the foot" is absolutely correct. This is also exactly true for railway locomotives but there is very often a mismatch between the scale used for the engine versus the track gauge being used.
So for anyone trying to model railway stock "to scale" then (and sorry Thor) the Wikipedia link provided gives (I think) a very poor explanation of how railway "scale" should be calculated.
Historically, the 'scales' used in both the smaller and larger model gauges did not closely relate to the prototypical gauge being modelled. They were simply rough approximations. For instance in the link - 1/24th 'scale' is mentioned. This was the original 'scale' used for 2.5" track (Gauge 3) but actually a much closer measure (and the one used these days for standard gauge 2.5" models) is 17/32" - and when you see vintage 1/2" stock besides modern 17/32" stock you can see a real difference.
The only correct way to calculate the correct scale is to divide the model track gauge into the prototype track gauge. So a standard gauge engine running on 2.5" track should be built to a ratio of 1:22.6 (e.g. 56.5"/2.5" which is actually very near to 17/32 (or 13.5mm if you prefer). For a narrow gauge engine - then simply use the original gauge used (24", 36" etc.) to achieve the same result. So a 2ft N/G engine on 2.5" track should be built to a scale of 1:9.6 (1.25" to the foot).
Sorry to bore anyone out there who already knew all this (or simply wasn't interested) but it's something that seems to confuse a lot of people and there's quite a lot of misinformation floating around out there on the web in this area.
Obviously two mugs of coffee is too much for at this time of day! Must be Shed Time!
Edited By IanT on 18/04/2015 09:23:02
|Thread: Hogging out on a shaper|
I have a rectangular length of cobalt tool steel somewhere Ady but I will have to make up some form of tool holder to use it in the Acorn. Not top of the list at the moment - but I will give it a go. Thanks
|Thread: 25 Years of Model Engineers' Workshop|
Might be an idea to link the 'Advert' on the home page to the contents area of your "sneak pre-view" though Neil - I initially assumed that the two were the same.
Edited By IanT on 17/04/2015 14:02:39
|Thread: How much ?|
My eldest son was described by his school as being "slow" (e.g. teacher talk for being a bit thick) but fortunately his mother thought there was something else wrong. We paid privately to have him tested and he failed 6 out of 8 tests for "Dyslexia" - which is a bit of a catch-all for a number of very real problems.
Once we knew these problems actually existed we started looking for solutions. Our local hospital had specialist computer 'eye-tracking' equipment that showed he couldn't easily settle on a word to read it (he didn't have a 'lead' eye). He had to wear special glasses for six months to allow his brain to adjust - which frankly made him feel even more isolated at school. We were also able to get private tuition (which he wasn't getting in the "Special Needs" class the school had placed him in - where some of the pupils were clearly severely disabled).
Once we got him back on track so to speak - he was still over three years behind his normal reading age and very resistant to try any form of reading. However - he recovered - if that is the right word. These days he has a very good, well paid job with a large IT company and seems very happy with his life.
So "Dyslexia" isn't a simple thing to understand - but nor is it just "Laziness" . For some people it is a very real problem but one that can be overcome (or at least minimised) with determination.
I'm also sure that my son is very fortunate that his Mum is a pretty determined person where her kids are concerned.
|Thread: which steady?|
In my view NB - the fixed steady is probably the most useful of the two generally - especially if you have a smaller lathe - as it lets you work outsized material that you cannot pass through the mandrel and that cannot be supported by the tailstock centre for whatever reason. I use mine on the S7 very occasionally
Having said that - you've mentioned screw cutting and the moving steady would be very useful if you needed to machine longer, thinner screw cut work (if that's what you are intending?). I purchased one for my S7 some years ago - discovered it was c*** in terms of fit but have never had the need to sort the problem out (so far). I have used a combined guide and tool holder (Chronos used to sell them) to turn some thinner work which has been more useful for the kind of stuff I generally do.
So I guess the best answer is it depends on the type of work you are most likely to do and also to some extent on the size of lathe you have. I'm not sure either would be very high up my list of essentials (I love ER collects for instance!)
|Thread: wsp books|
I have it Neil - and if you want to build a spindle for drilling or milling (small & simple to larger & more complex) - then it would be a very good reference to have.
'Screwcutting' would also be very useful to any lathe user once they were past the basics....
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
Thanks Bob - that source would never have occurred to me for sure!
I needed enough citric acid to fill a bucket for some larger assemblies that needed cleaning up - but once finished, I just let the 'crud' settle to the bottom and then poured off the clearer liquid into plastic milk bottles. I'm sure there's plenty of work left in the solution still - but I didn't use all of the 1Kg bag anyway. So I've plenty of "made up" and "still in the bag" to see me now for a while thank you.
RobJon - re Citric Acid availability
I used to get mine at our local wine making shop (now long gone). I managed to buy 50gm (£2.65) at Tesco's pharmacy just before Christmas (enough for several jam jars for smaller items) but it obviously didn't last that long.
When I tried to get new supplies recently (at Boots) I was treated like an elderly version of the guy from "Breaking Bad". Apparently it is also used to 'cut' drugs these days.
Fortunately, it seems that culinary grade Citric acid is also used extensively in Indian cooking - and I managed to purchase a 1Kg bag for just over £5 on eBay - which included postage. So (at least for now) my solder & brazing 'pickling' activities are secure....
|Thread: testing water tube boilers|
I seemed to remember that the late Peter Jones had built an engine based on 'Rose' so I got his book "Building Small Steam Locomotives: A Practical Guide to Making Engines for Garden Gauges" down off the shelf this morning.
He describes an engine called 'Wirral' which is a 2-4-0 tank version of Rose (which LBSC designed as a tender engine). A very simple single cylindered engine, Peter built his version with a gas-fired boiler. He devotes a whole chapter to Wirral, describing what is a charming (scenic) 2.5" live steam locomotive that would be a good starting project for live steam in Gauge '3'.
I'd forgotten what a nice book this is. Peter had a gentle style and the illustrations and photographs are first class. Some might want a little more step by step 'build' detail but generally a very good intro & overview to building small steam engines for anyone interested in 16mm, G1 or G3.
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