Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: midland compound me article??|
The engine as received - it's not quite so rusty now... IanT
PS If anyone recognises this model - I'd be delighted to hear from them.
Edited By IanT on 09/06/2015 20:47:59
He does Jason - but I'm not sure anyone actually wanting to build one would find too much there of practical use.
In fact he used the Keiller drawings as a partial basis for the line drawing in 4250. He also stated in an earlier article (4248) that he would make comparisons between the Keiller drawings and the ones he had from Mike Smart - but if he did so, I cannot find them.
Michael - there is a side view drawing of the Midland (Deeley) compound in 4250 - together with a frame 'outline' - the whole drawing is about A5 in size and not dimensioned. It's a good outline but not a GA by any means.
The 1937 Keiller article is a more detailed description of his engine (albeit in 1/2" scale) and has some useful info & drawings. I have it as a PDF somewhere if you would like to have it (please PM me your email).
I'd be interested in any other sources of Deeley compound info available in the public domain - as I acquired a part built Deeley compound a year or so ago and have just finished dissembling, cleaning and drawing the various discrete components into my CAD system as part of the (re) design process.
As far as I know, this engine has not been built to a published plan (I thought at first that it might be to Keiller - but it's in 17/32" for a start) and I have a lot of gaps to fill in (there was no valve gear made for instance). However, the work that has been completed is to a very good standard, so I think it's worth the effort.
The only Midland compound model published in ME that comes to mind Michael - was an article by CM Keiller who wrote about his 2.5" gauge (1/2" scale) compound model (1937 - Nos. 1906 & 1907 - A Small Scale compound Engine)
|Thread: Boiler Maker for 2 1/2" gauge|
There were one or two people within Gauge 3 and the 2.5" Association who might have done this a few years back but one is (I think) pretty much retired now and the other has (I understand) accepted virtually a full time brief from a commercial organisation. If you PM me - I will let you have their contact details in case they are still interested...
However, building a boiler in 2.5" doesn't involve anything that wouldn't be needed for a larger boiler (and of course 2.5" will be smaller/simpler in most cases) and I believe there are people around who will build in 3.5" & 5" for you - so they should have no problem with a smaller one I would assume - as the methods/materials used are the same.
|Thread: ER32 collet use.|
That's a great tip Simon - it will get used today in fact as I have some short 'ends' that are the only ones from the scrap box that are the right size for the job in hand!
Something I found useful recently - relating to ER32 collets (well collet blocks actually) - that may be worth sharing (sorry if it's a "sucking eggs" thing to some here)
I was cutting a M12 thread on some bronze (using a solid die) and had got it started true in the chuck but was struggling to put the cut on (work slipped and it was hard to grip things tightly in situ - a touch of arthritis doesn't help.
It occurred to me to move the work to my ER32 collet (square) block - the collet held the work very firmly and I was able to hold the block itself in the vice - applying the necessary torque with both hands then became much easier.
I have tended to think of the collet blocks as tools to aid my machining (e.g. flats/squares/hex on the ends of bars etc) but I think I will be using mine a lot more in future to hold round work for hand work - they are much more secure than just using a vice...
|Thread: Stringer EW lathe|
Thank you - it certainly sounds like you've been busy moving recently - hope you are settled now.
|Thread: Adjusting Myford spindle bearings|
Sorry Mick - you spoke of adjusting the gears - so just to be clear - is the problem with back gear engaged or not?
|Thread: what size hole|
I did think about boring them out John - up to the next "standard" size - but it's a lot of hassle when you can get them so cheaply at Aldi's these days - so I haven't done so yet.
|Thread: Adjusting Myford spindle bearings|
Mick - I think you are probably doing it correctly (pages 24 and 25 of the manual?) but if you have removed the spindle - are you certain everything went back in the right place (and the right way around).
The spindle adjustment is quite sensitive and I've sometimes taken a few go's to get it right. The spindle only has to "stick" - not be completely "hard" locked on - then you back off the adjusting ring by 1/4" as you say - or 15 degree rotation if that is easier to understand. I don't think an over-tight adjustment would stall the lathe - I'd expect it to run hot before it did that...
Are you sure everything is well seated - were the back gears damaged in any way - I think I'd check both gears carefully (especially the lower one) - and do you know what caused the back gear to be "stuck" in the first place - because I don't recall ever having that problem myself..
|Thread: what size hole|
I've got some of those packs John - but I found that I quickly used up all the common sizes and then you get left with just the "odd" sized ones!
|Thread: Sealing workshop floor|
Just looked for it on the Screwfix site Vic - for some reason searching for "Floor Paint" didn't get any me any useful results (maybe it's the way I type it?).
Found it after scrolling through just the "Paint" selection but it will come up immediately if you search for:
"Leyland Trade Heavy Duty Floor Paint"
|Thread: If I were going there...|
Robbo beat me to it - apart from changing the pillar for a longer length or inserting an extension piece - mounting the drill over the edge and rigging the table lower is a usable bodge for one-off jobs.
For anything much more than that - I'd get a better/larger drill.
In fact - I purchased one of these small drills from Lidls a few months ago (wanted a smaller one for the inside workshop) - took it home, had a brief look at it and took it straight back for a refund (which I got no problems). OK for drilling holes in lumps of wood maybe but it wasn't going to even meet my (admittedly low) standards. The quill was really loose, it had the roughest chuck I've seen and the motor very, very noisy (really awful!)... So no - not the basis of a tool I was going to spend any time with - let alone 'improve' or try to modify. There are much better starting points...
But the thread is "If I were going there" - and fortunately most of us are not....
|Thread: EXE 2 1/2 inch lathe.|
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
Just as well you keep Bees and not Ferrets Clive!
Steve G - re: vertical slides with (vertical) T-slots and the type of movable jaws and clamping bolts "vice" often provided with them..
Before my vertical slide was "repurposed" - I had found it almost impossible to clamp work tightly with my version of this vice without pushing the two vice jaws apart. Clamping up the work caused a sideways pressure on the jaws that was too much and the jaws just slid apart in their T-slots.
The simple solution was an 1/8" steel plate (the same size as the vertical slide) with two rows of holes drilled in it to match the T-slots. When placed behind the jaws (with the T-nut bolts through the appropriate holes in the plate) - the jaws cannot be forced apart and you can clamp up much tighter with the three clamping screws without damaging the T-slots.. I also made a third 'jaw' (with three matching indents in it - to take the 3 clamping screws) that I could use to help protect the work itself.
I don't think l have any photos of it but hopefully you get the general idea. If you have a conventional small machine vice to mount on the vertical slide, then the vertical T-slots are not a problem (assuming they match the vice mounting holes. However, the moving jaws type vice will often hold longer work, so is still useful sometimes.
|Thread: Lathe milling article/idea|
You can achieve pretty much the same functionality by mounting a (self-powered) milling head on a vertical slide which has been clamped to the lathe's bed.
I used a Taig ER16 milling head and the vertical slide from my Myford (it's Asian) to do exactly that. I just slide the tailstock off and mount the milling head. The total cost was just over £100 (for the Taig head and an extra pulley & belt - all from Peatol) as I already had a small motor. The rest was mainly from aluminium offcuts faced in the lathe. It works well for small jobs and the Taig head can be driven much faster (for smaller cutters) than can be done when they are held directly in the headstock.
|Thread: How to rivet in straight lines?|
Going back many years Malcolm - there was an idea in one of the railway modelling magazines - whereby the work to be riveted (brass sheet in this case) was clamped to the saddle of a small lathe - behind which the modeller had mounted a small drill. By using the lathe feed screw he was able to move the work under the drill by controlled amounts (e.g. one full turn = 1/8th" -so 1/4 turn equalled 1/32nd etc.) and get nicely spaced holes for his rivets.
Never tried it myself but I remember thinking it might be a useful thing to know one day.
|Thread: Identifying a part-built 1.5" Baby Lathe|
I am very well thank you - although I've not been in the workshop recently. Other distractions have been keeping me somewhat occupied. I hope you still have your little Ad*pt safe and sound somewhere ( for when you are tempted to play with her again).
I've had another look through "Lathes" this morning and the best overall 'design' resemblance I can find to this baby lathe is in the 'Gamages' range - although their lathes were generally larger in size and normally had their brand cast into the body. The headstock is quite similar to an Adept but there the resemblance ends I think. It's not a cantilever design for instance and the tailstock seems a little more 'elegant' (?).
She's not high on my list of priorities but I think I will put her somewhere within sight and you never know, maybe the odd thing will get added here and there over time.
Thank you for your thoughts everyone.
PS Can you have too many lathes? This one takes me up to four (or possibly three and a half?) - plus another one on permanent loan to a friend and various other beds and pieces lurking on shelves.
So many lonely old machines - so few good homes!
This little lathe was partially constructed by a friends father - from what looks like commercially sourced castings and has come to stay with me for a while.
I spent some time last night browsing through Lathes.co.uk to try to identify it and I found several small lathes that were similar but not exactly the same - especially in terms of the bed length and the end 'foot'.
The faceplate is 3" in diameter and the overall length of this tiny lathe is just 16" (bed casting end-to-end). There are no names or markings that I can see. The work done on this machine so far is excellent - my friends Dad was clearly a very good craftsman and knew what he was doing.
The top-slide casting is missing and the other casting (set on top of the lathe bed) appears to be part of a small vertical slide.
I'm not sure when (or even if) I will get around to doing more work on her but I would like to know more about her and if possible find some photos of a completed machine. I'm hoping someone here will recognise the design and can point me in the right direction?
|Thread: Converting a hand powered drill press to electrical|
These old drills work pretty well just as they are Rainbows - just hand crank them.
You are not going to be able to use very small drills with it but these drills work pretty well with larger bits where their slower speed is an advantage. You mentioned taper-shanked drills and these will tend to be in the larger sizes I suspect.
With a sharp drill bit these old hand cranked drills will work better (with larger bits) than trying to use an electric hand drill (even in a stand) exactly because you can apply a good deal of pressure & torque at a slower speed with them. It's a two hand job applying the feed as you turn the handle - you'll soon get the knack of it - and it's not particularly arduous to do.
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