Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Shaper tooling.|
I never got around to making one of these Andrew but this design (by Art Volz) for a small shaper toolholder may be useful to you. All of the homemade versions of this type of tool holder that I've seen use brazed or welded construction.
|Thread: Hand Hacksaw|
Barco 225 Plus
|Thread: shaper and planer gauge|
Always annoying when these things happen Frank - but if you can work out what size of thread your transfer gauge/extension pin uses, then a new extension shouldn't be hard to make - assuming that the rest of the gauge itself is OK of course (otherwise just return it).
Sometimes, if you can find a simple/quick way to fix a problem yourself, then it's probably easier to just do so and put it down to exerience. I don't use mine that often but it can be useful to have one sometimes. It's one of those 'nice but not absolutely essential' things.
|Thread: I am getting shorter - how about you.|
My wife was once considerably taller than me but is now noticably shorter. I'm not sure if she has shrunk or I've had a late life spurt. We are both much broader in the beam though, so have certainly grown out sideways ...
Fortunately (for my well being) she will not read this post either!
|Thread: vertical slide mod|
The holes in my chinese vertical slide didn't match my S7 cross-slots anyway, so I had to make an adaptor plate for it - but even so, I think it's good idea to have a sub-plate in-between to spread the load and make sure I'm not going to damage the T-slots by over tightening a single T-nut etc.
You can use this plate to also mount other things that otherwise wouldn't match the Myford cross-slide slots (like vices, angle-plates etc)
Edited By IanT on 06/02/2022 22:47:15
|Thread: Stringer EW lathe|
The EW is a small but sturdy lathe, that is capable of very good work. It is not that difficult to make a countershaft and to add a motor to one (I did this for mine when first acquired - see my Album). So I'd suggest you try to get your EW up and running and to try some basic turning with it. If nothing else it will give you a feel for lathe work and may also help you decide what sort of machine work you'd like to do (assuming you haven't settled on that as yet).
For much 'modelling' work, you won't really need change gears, as small screw threading is mostly done using taps and dies. If you do need to screwcut then you wll need a gear quadrant and gears - but they don't need to be original EW ones per-se. Provided that you can tie the heastock to the leadscrew via a gear train, then you can screw cut - although the EW may not be the ideal machine for some work. I use a mandrel handle to screw cut some threads on mine, partly because I've not fitted a dog-clutch to the leadscrew and partly because it is more easily controlled.
Martin Cleeve wrote many ME articles on 'improving' the EW and I'd be happy to let you have scans for your personal use. You may find some inspiration within them. Please PM me with your email if you'd like them.
Edited By IanT on 01/02/2022 14:13:18
|Thread: Small MT2 Tailstock Chuck for ML7|
When I first obtained my 'sensitive' drill chuck - I used it held in an MT2 - 1/2" end-mill holder (the tool itself being secured by a grubscrew) to mount in my S7s tailstock - and it worked fine without a drawbar. It also helped to extend the device over the cross-slide btw. There's enough 'grip' in a well fitting MT2 taper to not mind the sprung drill being moved in & out. My issue with the device was that mine had a lot of slop when extended.
You could buy the device and fit it into a MT2 blank arbor by drilling the arbor to suit the diameter of the sliding part of the chuck mount but that would seem a relatively expensive approach to the problem...
Arc sell a range of MT2 tapers with various tapers on the nose - and the chucks to match them.
I also purchased a 'sensitive' drill but frankly felt that the drill shaft was far too loose in it's body - so I remade it as mentioned a week or so back. However, I think it's worth pointing out that you don't really need this kind of drill holder (with knurled bearing) as when used in the tailstock, it doesn't need to revolve.
You could use any small chuck and just make a sliding shaft into an MT2 blank arbor.
The knurled bearing is required if you use it in a drill or mill - as then the body does spin. This 'sensitive' type of chuck & holder is also useful if you have a small horzontal mill with a vertical head that has no 'quill' (so drilling has to be done by raising/lowering the table). My re-built version has a reduced 10mm shaft end, so it can fit in an ER16 collet and be used on my Taig milling head.
Edited By IanT on 27/01/2022 17:56:28
|Thread: Scheppach Bandsaw Portable|
My Aldi bandsaw looks very similar - and as sold - also had a poor vice fitted to it. It moved several times on my early cuts.
So I removed the sliding jaw and fitted steel base plates with 6mm tapped holes instead. They extend support right out under the work to the blade. The clamps shown are quick acting but as the blade runs away from the jaw - the work can still move if I'm not careful. I've found conventional slotted clamps/hold-downs (as used for milling work) hold much better and you can also then clamp & cut things at angles if required. Sorry, I don't have a photo of these in use but hopefully you will get the general idea.
PS I used two steel plates as I didn't have anything in the scrap bin big enough to fit the job - but you could obviously just use one plate if you have a large enough piece.
|Thread: Sharpening Lathe Tools|
One thing that doesn't get mentioned too much is the size of HSS tool blank you are starting out with.
It's easier to shape and sharpen a smaller HSS tool than a large one. I generally use 3/16th section these days and for some applications, hold them in a simple steel holder. Doesn't work for every application but worth considering as makes tool maintenance much quicker...
|Thread: Tangential tool sharpening|
I don't use my Diamond tangential on brass - just too easy to get a dig-in - which I most definately have had when I tried to do so. They were 'nasty' dig-ins too - spoiled the part, quite apart from frightening the bejezzers out of me.
Maybe my old S7 is not a 'typical' lathe in terms of age and wear - maybe a nice new shiney lathe would be just fine. But I certainly don't use my tangential on brass - and as it's pretty easy to grind a HSS tool for brass (with no back rake - just front/side clearance) it's really not a problem...
|Thread: 'Vision aid magnifying glasses', any good?|
I purchased an Optivisor (with loupe) a few years back - although I cannot recall exactly what it cost now. I wear it all the time in the workshop and find it essential now my eyesight is not what it was. I know I've spent much more on some tools that have probably only seen the light of day once or twice since.
Thinking about it, the Optivisor is almost certainly my most used tool.
|Thread: Information sought on radio controlled gas fired 5" gauge locomotives es|
The radio control of live steam locos is not a new thing really - the 16mm guys have been doing it for a long time.
In 2.5" gauge, the first use of a (modern) R/C system was probably the one installed by Ralph Brewer in the early 1980's (which doesn't seem that long ago somehow). Ralph wrote about his system in one of the railway mags at the time and this was reproduced in the G3S Newsletter in 2007. It is one of the artcles available for download as a PDF from the G3S website - which if you are curious, you can find here...
Ralph's article is number '005' - and the current owner (Julian) talks about Ralph (and his loco) in article number '050'.
I don't think there should be any great difference between R/C on a 5" versus 2.5" engine in most respects (things can be worked by servos - regulator, blower, whistle etc) - but maybe a brake would also be a nice idea.
Edited By IanT on 17/01/2022 22:02:36
|Thread: Mill or drill for the same money|
If you are limited by space or money and the work is small, then a small mill is fine for many things. But it's nice to have a choice of machine to use if you can afford & house them.
For example - end drilling a shaft. Could have done this in the lathe or (horizontal) mill with some bodging - but it was quicker and more convenient in the drill press. Most verticals would not have the headroom. As others have mentioned, a drill press is very handy for woodworking too...
Shaft was about 20" long and 1.5" diameter from memory.
Bottom support using V-Angle plate....(find mine to be very versatile)
Top end of shaft held in vice clamped to the table (which was swung to one side)
|Thread: Highway Code|
If (and maybe I misunderstood the news piece) cyclists now have right of way when going straight across a junction and can 'undertake' a car about to turn left - then I imagine that there will be some very serious accidents - whether drivers know about this change or not.
I'm afraid many drivers don't seem to use their mirrors much these days anyway and this change is just asking for trouble. I thought I was pretty good with my mirrors but having been 'undertaken' by a guy on an e-Scooter whilst following a tractor recently (which really made me jump! ) I think you need eyes in the back of your head now.
|Thread: Solid Edge Community Edn. - Gen. Qs. Thereof|
Well I wouldn't judge a CAD system by the number of icons you can count Hans.
For many years, I used TurboCAD by using the 'dropdown' menus before learning that I could completely remove them altogether and just work from the keyboard. The SE user interface is completely customisable and you can set it up to suit your preferences (and skills) or just select a template. Indeed when starting out, you are offered the choice of a simpler set of tools should you wish it. I decided to learn the "Balanced" tool set recommended for 'regular' users.
However, there are many shortcuts available. Hold the right mouse key down and you can access 16 commands from the quick access quadrant (not sure what it's really called) and you can again set this up to suit your own preferences. Most operations open a new 'bar' with context sensitive options which I find very straight forward in use. If I cannot find a command, then the 'find a command' (too obvious?) box will offer you options that might meet your needs - hover over one and it highlights the command icon and gives a brief animation. If you click it, then it's just like using the actual icon itself. Much harder to describe than use frankly...
As to my feeling about the Cloud, it's to do with the fact that I prefer 'local' operation and storage (nothing to do with privacy of data) as I use the Cloud for some backups - but the key thing is that I control access - not some one else.
As far as I can tell, with SE 2022 installed locally, it will not change (or be changed) overnight, unless I decide to update it - my current license having three years left. I obviously have local copies of all my work too, again under my direct control. We can argue the pros and cons but it all comes down to preference and these are mine. As I've said before, everyone has different needs and if you've invested time & effort in a particular product, that will most likely also strongly dictate your views in this area.
However, I do agree that you can agonise over these choices for far too long, when sometimes it may be much simpler to just decide which CAD solution you like the look of and just go for it.
Edited By IanT on 03/01/2022 23:39:18
I wouldn't think it's anything to do with Win 7 Nigel - but assuming nothing else has changed ( "it would not work" is a rather broad fault description) it might be that your browser needs updating?
"Pity none of the SE users have not commented or shown how it can be done"
I'm afraid to admit that I've spent a great deal of time this past week bonding with my Grandson (and his new game console) - learning another new digital skill (Minecraft Dungeons) - very addictive I might add.
So just as well that he's taken it home with him.
Well that video is about 'ST4' Gary and some eleven years old now. New users will be using SE 2022.
I've found these YTs by Dr Sief (made for his graduate engineering students) to be very good for my needs. The 'Labs' cover the basics of SE and the 'Exercises' are a blend of various SE techniques to practice with. He doesn't rush and you (e.g. me ) can follow what's going on. Some 'CAD' videos go so fast (with so little explanation) that they are frankly quite useless as learning material.
However, to repeat my previous advice - there are very good SE 'getting going' tutorials available on the Siemens site (accessible from SE-CE) and these are a good starting point - but I do like the videos to remind myself of some things - a kind of video aide memoir for old(er) folk!
Edited By IanT on 02/01/2022 12:25:56
Yes, works for me too!
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