Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: fly cutter wear|
Hard to tell from the photo Philip but it may be rubbing.
Move the cutter 'tip' up (down) to the work surface and look closely at the contact point - it should just be the tip of the tool touching and there should be clearance at the back. It's a bit harder to imagine - but the same rules apply to a fly-cutting tool as to any single point cutting tool - be that lathe, mill or shaper.
You need a defined cutting edge and some clearance - get those right first and then worry about rakes & speeds.
|Thread: Klopp 34" shaper|
That could make it's own (custom) hole in the back of the Shed - so wouldn't need that much space!
|Thread: Changes to Fusion 360 Terms|
I was thinking about my first version of TurboCAD yesterday Duncan.
It was version 4 and came for free on the cover of one of the popular computer mags of the day (sometime in the 90's). Most of the software provided was either pretty useless or time limited. I think TurboCAD was the only 'serious' bit of software I ever installed and actually continued to use. I can't remember exactly but I probably had a '286' PC running Windows 3.1 at that time - it all seemed pretty state of the art back then.
So did WordPerfect, '2020' spreadsheets and Paradox databases.... It doesn't seem that long ago but then again neither do "mobile" phones the size of shoe boxes either.
I really am getting old!
If you had invested a great deal of time learning Fusion 360 or had already purchased an Alibre license, then I could understand someone staying with that investment in time (and perhaps money).
For some years, there was an ongoing debate here about which 2D CAD package was the best. As a long time user of TurboCAD, I always suggested that people tried it out, although many thought it wasn't for them and suggested other products. However, I'd spent some time getting to know TC and it has served me very well for over 20 years. So clearly, people will support the product that they have some some sort of investment in - be that time, money or just pure emotion.
In your case, it seems that you have no pre-existing investment in any 3D CAD system at this time (and no need for CAM if you are not planning to use CNC). I was in a very similar situation last year and found that I could download the Community Edition of Solid Edge 2020 for free. This is a very powerful CAD system that like both Fusion & Alibre will need an investment in time to learn to use it well.
Since starting to use it I have found out a little more about it's technical background and there are many professional CAD users who believe that Solid Edge is the best 'mid-range' professional CAD system available. I was also surprised to find that Solid Works (another very popular high end CAD system) uses the same underlying CAD 'engine' as Solid Edge which they licensed from Siemens (who own SE).
So I would very strongly recommend that you download SE 2020 Community Edition and work through the online tutorials before parting with any money for another 3D CAD product. I don't think you will be disappointed and if you really don't like SE - you can always purchase an Alibra license later.
Just a thought.
|Thread: interest renewed|
Yes, it's an ER32 chuck (backplate mounted) that I prefer to the MT type - as it allows longer work material to be fed through the headstock. I use ER chucks for both tool and work holding finding them very convenient - and more versatile than just buying something just for tool holding.
Peter - I don't hold milling cutters in my 3/4 jaw chucks, too easy for things to move. But small fly-cutters can be held in them, as the shanks are normally relatively soft and can be gripped better. In fact small 'single point' cutting tools are very useful and much easier to keep sharp. The kind of work you will probably want to do in 16mm can certainly be done with a vertical slide and some small cutter tooling. This was the norm not so many years ago but 'cheap' Far East imports have tipped the balance between convenience over cost. A mill might make things easier but it's certainly not essential for the kind of work we do.
A tidy and comfortable looking workshop - I wish mine looked as welcoming. Good Luck with your milling
PS I don't know your lathe but if you can fit the heavier slide, then spend the extra money and do so. Looking at my photo, again, I've still got the rotary base fitted. I don't normally use it these days, having a plate to adapt the fit between the slide body and S7 (slots) better. I can't recall when I've ever needed to angle the slide - it's always mounted at right angles to the cutter...small angles can be packed up or out. The vertical slide movement can be very restricted if it's angled over the cross-slide. You need the v-slide's table to overhang the cross-slide to give maximum travel.
|Thread: Changes to Fusion 360 Terms|
The G1MRA 3D 'Circle' have been discussing this issue and some members have started to export and locally store their Fusion drawings as 'STEP' files as a precaution. One member has successfully opened these files with Solid Edge and reports that they seem to be fine and can be manipulated at the component level. They think FreeCAD will be OK with them too.
|Thread: Silver spoon? - or maybe not!|
Look like a Light Infantry crest to me - possibly a Mess spoon?
|Thread: interest renewed|
I just looked at the Chester site again and realised that I was looking (first time around) at their "heavy" slide - which is the model I have. The "medium" one is half the weight and may still work well enough but I'd go for the heavier tool if your lathe can take it.
Here's a photo of my vertical slide being used to end-mill some some frames which just needed the edges cleaned up. Some time ago now but I probably had something already set up on the mill and this was a convenient alternative. Simple things like this work just fine, provided you take it easy and can hold the work without any problems. Work visibility wasn't a problem here either - which it can be when compared to a vertical mill set-up.
I see no one has replied to your question as yet, so I'll give you my two pennies worth - and also bump your query up a bit too!
You can do a great deal of work with just a lathe but milling with a vertical slide is now considered (by many) to be a "bit old fashioned". That's because a vertical slide set-up will never be quite as rigid as even a small milling machine (well maybe it might be with a very large lathe versus a very small mill). But at one time and with few other options, many MEs made do with just their lathe and produced some very good work.
Of course, much will be dependent on what you are trying to achieve (size of work required etc) as you will be limited by the cross-slide travel and effective rise and fall of the slide, given work will probably be mounted in a small vice on it. You will also find that 'light cuts' are the order of the day - so you will be nibbling away at things, not taking great big bites. Given these limitations, then a vertical slide will let you do things that become a bit more awkward to set-up and undertake without one (use of packing etc).
So provided that you understand that a vertical slide is not a straight milling machine replacement - they can still be very useful, especially if you don't have anything else.
Looking at the Chester website, I think the Chinese slide I see there is the same as the one use on my Myford S7. It is a very solid bit of kit, although I made a special mounting plate for it. The clamping (vice) jaws shown also tend to "move" when you tighten parts between then (a thin drilled plate solves this - it stops the T-nuts sliding apart under pressure).
Anyway - others may have more to add but that's my input. Hope this helps.
Edited By IanT on 18/09/2020 20:25:04
|Thread: Changes to Fusion 360 Terms|
"Would imagine Solid Edge will go down a similar route before long"
I guess it's quite possible Matt - but the copy I down-loaded had a "lifetime licence" with it (as I understand it) and that seems much more in line with the way I used (and licensed) TurboCAD DL. I upgraded as and when I wanted to and was able to continue to use my existing TC software version, until I reached a point where I needed to change it (which mostly involved Windows upgrades).
With a cloud-based product - any changes can be made instantly at the flick of switch in some Corporate office somewhere. That was my concern last year and I made a good choice back then as far as I'm concerned.
Obviously, many here have invested a great deal of time and effort into F360 and they may not be greatly effected by these changes - but this may be more of a deciding factor for anyone coming new to 3D CAD (as I was last year).
Edited By IanT on 18/09/2020 13:06:51
|Thread: Gloves in a Bottle|
Perhaps it's all in my mind then Paul (like my being a living Legend !! )
However, I thought I'd try it after seeing it mentioned here - and it seems to help in my case. Having 'itchy' spots on your hands after being in the workshop isn't that much fun and anything that helps is very welcome. Udder Cream might be as effective - I'll look for some next time I'm in SuperDrug and give it a go.
|Thread: Changes to Fusion 360 Terms|
I looked at Fusion when I wanted to draw something in 3D that I couldn't (easily) do with TurboCAD D/L or Open SCAD (both of which I still use btw). Fusion 360 was clearly very popular and had one BIG advantage, in that it included a CAM element. However, I deeply disliked (& indeed distrusted) the Cloud based nature of Fusion, so was very pleased to find that Solid Edge 2020 (free Community Edition) was not cloud based and (I'm not sure why) it also seemed to suit me better - I hadn't really enjoyed trying to learn F360.
So I don't know very much about F360. My 3D CAD knowledge is limited to Open SCAD and SE 2020. However, in the later, I design 'parts' (each being a separate file) which then are joined together into 'assemblies' (another file). If I need a 2D drawing, then this is again a new file.
This is very unlike the way I worked in TurboCAD - where I tended to have one large 'model' with parts defined and separated by either page geography and/or multiple layers. I've not made any very complex SE 2020 designs thus far but I can see that if I was limited to just ten "active" parts, that it might be an issue. I don't know if I'm understanding this correctly in F360 terms though.
As an aside, the lack of CAM in SE 2020 did slightly worry me - but in fact I've not made the jump to CNC as yet - and may never do so. 3D Print is another story of course. However, I have noted with interest the increasing use of commercial "printing" sources by other Gauge '3' colleagues. There was a very interesting 3D 'Printed' part shown recently (made with a metal sintering process) that would have required lost-wax casting or some similarly complex to produce not so long ago. Members are also using outside sources to get parts printed in more 'exotic' materials that are not so easy to use at home. So I'll worry about CAM when I have the actual need.
Anyway - Solid Edge 2020 Community Edition seems very capable of meeting my current needs and everything runs locally, still a very big bonus to my mind.
It seems that there are a few changes in the terms that allow Personal Users to access Fusion 360 from 1st October
My fears about this seem to be realised I'm afraid. I hope Siemens don't respond with changes to Solid Edge for personal use but at least I have SE 2020 Community installed currently and there's no Cloud involved.
Edited By IanT on 18/09/2020 09:26:24
|Thread: Marking out blueing or pens?|
I use both Jon
For quick jobs, then a black 'Sharpie' works well on both steel and brass. It's convenient and quick - so a quick dab on a turned part to mark (say) the length of cut - is very handy. It does rub off fairly easily though, so it's not quite as "permanent" as the name suggests - at least on metal.
For larger/more involved work I still use Marking Out Blue - my small bottle of which I purchased from GLR donkeys years ago. You just paint it on with a small paint brush (I use children's ones). After use just let them dry out - they will soften very quickly when re-dipped in the blue. This blue stays on a lot better than Sharpies but can still get worn/rubbed away as the work progresses. So quite often I will place a few punch marks on marked lines for instance to keep the important reference points even if the marking wears off.
Many here will just drill/cut straight from DRO readings these days of course but I still like to see parts marked out.
|Thread: Gloves in a Bottle|
I've just watched the video above and as I've already stated, I think this is good protection to use in the 'dirty' workshop but I'd take any claims about providing any further protection with a large dose of salt.
I was not sure of what was being suggested with the talk of Police etc using this product routinely - but in these 'Covid' days, I'm certain that it isn't a replacement for actual "Gloves" in many instances (e.g. where real gloves obviously need to be worn). I wouldn't take the "Gloves in a Bottle" description too literally....
Edited By IanT on 16/09/2020 09:28:32
I've been using GIAB for a while now and it's a bit more high tech than barrier cream if you read the blurb.
I seem to have developed a few skin sensitivities or possibly I'm using something now that I'm sensitive to (chicken or egg?) but this certainly helps. I've nothing objective in the way of tests but I know when I've forgotten to use it within a day or two.
I only use a 'pea' sized amount each time, once a day before I go down the main workshop, working it well into the skin. I run a fairly "dry" inside workshop, so don't worry so much in there but my larger machines are all kept well oiled and I use cutting oils & various solvents down there too - so that's when I tend to have problems. I also use gloves of course but not when operating the machines.
It's not cheap but then a small bottle goes a long way. Apparently, it doesn't wash off, bonding with the top skin layer, so you can wash your hands (for coffee/lunch) without reapplying in theory.
If you have skin troubles in the workshop - I'd recommend trying it and it could also help to prevent these problems in the first place too. Some things become more of a problem as you get older it seems.
My local Superdrug stocks it.
|Thread: Steel stock for newbie ???|
I have good stocks of mild steel "scrap" the majority of which is (fortunately) free-cutting. A small stock of this for general use would be useful - it is certainly the material to use when starting out turning/machining steel.
However, some times I either need to be sure of the material type or need a specific size - and this needs to be purchased as required.
So my advice would be if you can get it for free, then do so but just be mindful that you can only really guess what it is (unless the source offers certainty) but otherwise purchase as required.
Quite often you will need to buy more material than you need anyway (longer lengths etc) - so your scrap bin will grow anyway (just be sure to mark the off-cuts so you can remember what it is).
So, in general, I wouldn't buy stock on 'spec' - but if you can get some good freebies - then why not?
|Thread: Scaling back forum activity|
I manage a Website and email 'Group' for my Society and essentially decide what is permissible and what is not.
I don't have any objections to members posting reviews, plugs or YouTube links provided that they are related to members interests and are not offensive. However, we have no sponsors to upset - the Society funds the Website and we use a free messaging service. This Forum clearly operates under different conditions and is essentially part of a commercial operation.
"Offensive" is clearly a subjective matter but since I'm the only Admin and Moderator - it's basically down to me to decide what is 'offensive' - perhaps better defined as being "what is likely to offend our Members" (as opposed to some obscure Facebook Group).
I've only moderated one post (it was never sent) for being unnecessarily rude to another member. The poster was angry and refused to withdraw his post but he's still on there, albeit on full moderation. Another member was upset that I'd actually "stopped someone posting his personal views" and left the system. I had explained that it wasn't the "views" but the language that he'd framed them in but he still left. You cannot (and will not) please everybody.
So, I'm afraid our members have to 'like it or lump it' where my moderation talents are concerned. After all, if anyone feels they can do a better job, they can always ask to do it and I won't stand in their way. Maybe my Society is unique in having lots of folk with great ideas but not so many to actually make them happen.
So - The ME Forum is provided by a commercial company that has to balance the interests of it's subscribers versus the views of it's sponsors and advertisers.
Their Forum - Their Rules. Seems fair enough to me.
|Thread: Brazing brass help|
Hello Theo and welcome.
Different people use different terminology in this area but to me "Brass Brazing" suggests high temperature brazing work with a brass filler. If you are planning to fabricate a brass letter-box - this will give a 'complete' (all brass) finish but it is quite hard to do - as the material being joined will probably melt not too far above that of the filler material. My point being that "brass brazing" brass components together is very skilled work, a skill that I certainly don't have (I use brass filler for steel fabrications only).
However, brazing using a silver braze material is far easier, as the silver will melt well before the brass. Some care is required to make sure the joint line doesn't show - or there will be a thin (silvery) joint line.
There may also be other alternatives to "brazing" , such as some form of screwed fixing (from the blind side) or the use of an adhesive. 'Soft' solder could also be a simpler (lower temperature) solution but it's also quite easy to make a mess with soft solder and once used, silver brazing cannot then be tried.
Just some thoughts that I hope will help - good luck with your project.
Edited By IanT on 03/09/2020 20:37:22
|Thread: Faceplate workholding.|
Yes, I don't disagree Emgee - but it's often a matter of degree (how far out is it?) and perhaps necessity (can I hold it any other way?).
As usual, there are some 'unknowns' with a question like this that make it hard to be exact (the initial state of the material, equipment availability, what the finished design permits in terms of work holding etc). The work order is also something that will have some bearing - face the ends and then turn parallel or vice versa - which may also be dictated by the other factors.
Anyway - hopefully Robin has a few extra 'clues' to help him get to where he wants to go. I'm sure he'll figure it out!
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.