Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Removing felt lining from wooden boxes......not animal hide glue.|
Timely post for me - I've recently purchased a nicely made, polished (& lined) box for re-use in the workshop.
I've had to remove the original internal wooden partions and the green felt liner as part of this conversion. The felt ripped out quite easily but has left a green 'fuzz' behind (on top of a hard glue base) that I've tried sanding but it's not easy to access. I've consdidered making a thin cosmetic backplate for the drawer bottoms but will try to clean up and re-treat the inside edges..
Not sure of its age, not antique but not recent either - very much better than I can make quickly from scratch though. Will (gently) try the hot air gun and scrapper approach first I think... thanks.
|Thread: Brass or bronze ?|
I don't know your engine design, how often you intend to run it or how easy it might be to retrofit replacement bearings Bill - but just as a thought, if you have ample stock of suitable brass - then why not make some spare bearings when you do the first set. It often doesn't take that much longer to run a second/spare set of these type of items once you are set-up on the machine.
As I said - Just a thought. Good luck with your engine.
|Thread: Little experience so advise needed|
You don't have to build clocks & watches to use watch-makers materials and tools Ron, they are very useful to model makers too. Don Gordon (a builder of small scale boats) wrote a very good series in ME in the 80's called "Low cost, High Precision" - well worth a read for any small scale modeler. Don used pivot steel to make very small diameter drills when required for instance.
You can get it in various sizes from Cousins UK. I purchased packs of assorted sizes from them some years ago and it can be a useful source of hard, small diameter steel.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Well we didn't have any plasticine, so I went for the bread option but made a mash of it with the grease. A few packings and hammerings later and I had succeeded in blowing the metal shield out of the bearing top and thereafter further applications of bread/paste just pumped out between the bearing balls. I also heated the unit up before trying this in the hope of easing things btw.
So the lesson learned is that hydraulic pressure is very effective but not always in quite the way you need!
The shaper work went well again - so it was not a total loss of effort and I can always replicate the part (a tailstock live centre) if I need to as fortunately it is not that complicated to remake.
I've previously tried turning an eccentric lip on a high tensile bolt Martin, then inserting and wedging it in place but that didn't budge it. I haven't actually tried heating it first, so that may be worth a go after I've cleaned it up a bit - then I'll have another run at the hydraulic method... We'll see..
That's a thought Brian. Thanks.
Grandma says we have certainly have Playdough but I'm not sure if we still have plasticine - I'll have to have a discrete rummage in the Grandchildrens' toy-boxes...
Edited By IanT on 28/07/2019 12:00:57
No real excuse to not get on with some gardening yesterday but snuck off to the Shed later on when someone wasn't looking ...
I've had a bearing (in a blind hole) that I need to replace lying around on the bench & annoying me, so (having carefully researched on YT) I decided to try the 'grease & rag' hydraulic method. I even turned up a close fitting punch to try to improve the seal. I'm afraid all I managed to do was to completely compact the rag in the bearing and the bearing hasn't moved a micron as far as I can tell. Later today I'm going to try bread instead of cloth (having re-read the comments under the YT posting).
Not entirely wasted time however. A grateful son gifted me a Hemmingway 'Keats' kit recently - and as this is ideal shaper work, I also had the trusty Acorntools 7" roughing out the castings. Not a quick process (and more to do) but one where you can be doing other things in parallel (such as getting bearings out) - so in a strange way - shaper work can be very time efficient...
As an aside, I already had a 'Chinese' Keats I purchased some time ago and had only used once - but needing it for something a bit more challenging recently - found that it was very badly made - with clamping bolts drilled at quite an odd angle and the clamping piece with completely unequal side pieces. So that was a bit disappointing - but even so it would have been very hard to set-up the required operation with it - hence the new H/W kit... which is very well presented and an interesting project too (well done Son!)
I guess I will eventually tidy up the commercial Keats but it's an annoyance none the less...
|Thread: Brazing Materials|
" While today cadmium free silver solder is the only material advised for boiler making and steel fabrications may, with modern equipment be easily welded or bronzewelded (eg SifBronze) Several other materials were written about in old copies of ME that have aroused my curiosity and any more information on them would interest me. "
I've mentioned this a few times before - but for anyone interested you can certainly Sifbronze small steel fabrications without the expense and trouble of OxyA kit. However you will need a propane torch capable of the required heat outputs - and the one I have (a Bullfinch 404) can manage this. They are not cheap but are well made and I expect mine will last me my lifetime - I can also silver solder with it and I like the auto-ignition feature.
Why Sifbronze? - well I paid about £20 for 1kg of 1.6mm Sifbronze No 1 (about Qty 60 x I metre lengths) - so it is considerably cheaper than silver solder! I still have quite a few lengths in stock. Using a larger propane tank also saves money over disposable gas bottles.
I've just checked current pricing - 1kg Sifbronze No1 (Approx. 60 x 1.6 x 1 meter rods) is £26.85 (inc VAT) from WeldEquip (not some no-name Ebay supplier) - whilst Qty 5 x 1.5mm x 500mm 524 Silver Solder is £21.77 (inc VAT & Delivery) from CuP.
So if a fabrication is not too big (and made of steel) - I tend to use Sifbronnze but for other (generally non-ferrous) applications I will use my precious (e.g. expensive) 524 silver solder.
Is it worth the extra cost of the Bullfinch 404? Well, certainly it is not for everyone. It will depend on how much small scale steel fabricating you need to do - but I use mine a fair bit and find it very useful.
Edited By IanT on 25/07/2019 16:09:06
|Thread: Timesaver - which grades?|
OK thanks Nigel - I'll save a few bob and just order the two green grades. I did briefly think about buying the full kit of eight types/grades but the savings aren't that great..
I'll probably end up buying some yellow grades too eventually as I can think of some uses for them - but somehow smaller purchases over several years don't seem quite such a commitment as a single large one - especially when experience says I may not end up needing/using them all.
I need to lap a (new) steel shaft into a cast iron bearing, having re-bored the bearing and consigned the old (badly scored) shaft to my scrap box. I intend to use green 'Timesaver' lapping compound to get the final fit but suspect (e.g. hope) that I don't need all four grades to do the job. I was thinking 'medium' and 'fine' might be sufficient - assuming I start with reasonably well machined surfaces.
Any experience/advice please?
|Thread: Mounting an ER collet chuck|
I'm sure the advice above is perfectly sound but I didn't try for a perfect register fit on either of my ER32 backplates. They were machined slightly over size - the chuck mounted and then clocked true and then the screws tightened up. There shouldn't be any run out if done as suggested I agree - but that's how I did it mine, they run true and they haven't shifted in use.
Edited By IanT on 29/06/2019 10:20:54
|Thread: Side Cut Angle on HSS Tool Bits|
I agree with Andrew - it's for heavy cuts and helps strengthen the cutting edge. However, it's not a tool shape I use. My machines are all (relatively) light - so I don't take really huge cuts and my normal tool geometries (including the Diamond) work perfectly well for the roughing cuts I make.
This tool geometry can also be inconvenient in use too - as already mentioned by Mick.
|Thread: HSS Tool Bit Size|
Quite a few replies already here but my few pennies worth for what they are worth.
I've tried to standardise on 3/16th HSS for most turning operations on both my lathes, as people have stated - they are much easier to initially shape and to then keep sharp. I've made various 'sub' toolholders so they fit into my other tool holding devices (e.g. QCTH & Lammas blocks). I've made these adaptors to fit my hand shaper too btw.
I do use larger HSS sections - especially where more tool extension/support is needed - parting or finish turning into crankshafts for instance. Generally, these bits can be kept just for these purposes, so re-sharpening isn't such a problem. I also have a good selection of larger HSS bits for my Atlas shaper - where I use larger sections directly or in traditional angled toolholders. I digress...as usual I'm afraid.
With respect to rounding the tool end, it does two things. The first is to help protect the cutting edge - a sharp tip will break more easily and the second is to potentially give a smoother finish. Essentially you want a tip slightly wider than the distance the tool will travel in a single revolution - assuming a fine feed of course. This is also true for shaper tools. Obviously, if you are taking roughing cuts, this latter aspect doesn't apply - but the stronger (rounded) tip still will...
Best way to find out is to experiment a little and see what works for you (and what doesn't) - all part of the fun!
|Thread: What method do you use to find center height for your lathe bit?|
The upright rule certainly works, as does facing till you get no centre pip. I used both methods successfully for many years - and still do so occasionally when it's convenient/quick to do so.
But the rule method doesn't always work for some set-ups and if you change or move the tool mid-operation (break the tip on your diamond toolholder bit for instance) - you can't always just machine a pip mid-operation and of course neither work well for setting up boring bars...
So, what I (finally) did for both my lathes was to just turn a piece of scrap stock true (can be anything, any diameter) and with it still in the chuck/collet - measured its top-height from both the bed, cross-slide and top-slides using a Vernier height gauge. Subtracting half the turned diameter from these measurements gives you the key centre height references for your lathe and enables you to set-up simple height setting gauges and other work-holding devices very simply. You only need do it once and note the results for future use...
Edited By IanT on 27/06/2019 09:07:12
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Top Slide Base - Alternatives?|
I'd be very tempted to just get the Radford Improved Top-slide Nicholas.
I was thinking about this again yesterday - when the slide was hitting the tailstock (as usual). I don't taper turn very often and I think the Radford design would be generally more convenient. He claimed it was a lot more robust/secure too. I just need to finish all the other things first...
But you have more motivation to do it...
|Thread: Building the Stent Tool and Cutter Grinder|
I have a Stent T&C Grinder - and all the scanned ME articles somewhere - plus the various bits published since on changes and improvements.
Send me a PM and I will dig them out for you.
|Thread: HSS hire 500 kg folding engine crane|
I guess I've mentioned this set-up before as I already had a photo in my 'album' of my 12-speed drill being lifted off the dolly (to eventually enable it to be placed onto its cabinet). Each leg of the A-frame is actually made of two pieces of Dexion bolted together. I've no idea of what load this set-up is capable of but it has lifted an Atlas MF mill without any apparent problems and as mentioned, I generally do it in small stages with a support placed underneath. So whilst not suitable for very heavy loads (like the Victoria) an A-frame is quite a stable setup and much better/safer than just trying to physically lift things I'm sure.
Edited By IanT on 23/06/2019 16:32:47
I used a friends engine crane (he helped) to lift my Victoria HO Mill on and off the trailer I hired for the job but the actual shifting was done on three steel rollers - 3ft lengths of mild steel about 2" diameter. I'm pretty sure that we couldn't have moved the mill suspended from the crane. This method is only suitable where you have a machine with a suitable base plate of course and when shifting over a hard surface.
All my other, smaller machines were/are moved by lifting them onto a dolly made for the purpose, from some heavy 2x4 timber sections with boarding on top. To lift them I normally use an A-frame made from doubled-up Dexion section and a simple winch. I made some supports that slide underneath as I lift the machine - so a variation on the "pig-sty" method mentioned and if anything moves whilst winching, its simple to ease off onto the supports. If possible, once lifted, the bench/table is placed under the machine instead of the supports - otherwise the machine has to be slid off the supports. The A-frame can be assembled straddling a bench and then disassembled afterwards though. I can do this work single handed, just need to work carefully and take it steady. The two A-frame sections unbolt from the top (cross) section and are normally just propped against a wall - they don't take up much space and cost me nothing.
|Thread: Milling spindle|
Some years ago I made an adaptor to fit my Chinese vertical slide (which also fits on my Super 7 cross-slide) to one end of my EW lathe bed. I mounted a Taig ER16 milling spindle to the vertical slide and I was then able to vertical mill on the EW's boring table - which is very useful for some small jobs.
So in theory - you can mount a Taig head on a Myford vertical slide and use it to machine work mounted in the headstock - however, I've not actually done it (as I also have several milling machines these days) - so I'm not sure what the clearances etc would be in practice. I'd normally take my Taig set-up down the shed and try it for you but I'm not able to do so at the moment I'm afraid.
However, the Taig head (used to) cost about £80 and is very good value at the price - so worth considering...just needs an adaptor block and a small motor. The photo of the EW set-up should give you some idea of it - but on the S7 the vertical slide would be on the cross-slide of course...
|Thread: Help with odd milling machine spindle taper|
I have a .png drawing of the NS taper (which also includes the 30/40/50 tapers) and gives their relative dimensions. The 'G' measurement - the top end of the taper, for the NS taper is 1.375" which is 34.9mm - so this seems to suggest this taper.
I cannot post .png images here but if you pm me - I will email you the image.
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