Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Help with odd milling machine spindle taper|
I have a .png drawing of the NS taper (which also includes the 30/40/50 tapers) and gives their relative dimensions. The 'G' measurement - the top end of the taper, for the NS taper is 1.375" which is 34.9mm - so this seems to suggest this taper.
I cannot post .png images here but if you pm me - I will email you the image.
I've not heard of an NT35 taper before - but I do have a Victoria H0 mill with an 1_3/8th N.S. taper - which was (I believe) a wartime standard. It also sits in between the NT30 and NT40 taper sizes. The dimensions you are giving don't seem to match this taper but I thought I'd mention it's existence as I've found it very hard to get information on this taper and it is not well known.
Just a thought...
|Thread: Brazing torch|
I think Clive might be referring to a query I had a good while ago.
I'd purchased a Bullfinch Autotorch 404 for small SIFbronze (e.g. brass) brazing work. I already had a large patio gas cylinder, which I had (wrongly) assumed I could also use for the Bullfinch but it turned out that wasn't possible (different connector).
So I ended up buying a new Propane (Red) cylinder which wasn't that much more than just the cost of a refill IIRC (and very cheap compared to disposable gas bottles). I was then able to attach the Bullfinch directly using the Bullfinch supplied regulator. It all works very well for small SIF brazing jobs as well as any larger silver brazing I need to do.
PS The 404 generates higher temperatures than most propane guns are capable of and (in my view) is a viable alternative to Oxy-A for smaller brass brazing work - although obviously it's not quite as versatile. But then it isn't as costly or (potentially) as dangerous either...
Edited By IanT on 12/05/2019 15:59:22
|Thread: Bandsaw speed|
INCAs are very good machines to own Mick and much prized by their owners - including yourself I'm sure.
So I'm pleased to see your post above and I hope that your INCA continues to give you the same good service and pleasure in use that mine has. Good luck with finding your new metal saw.
I use Tuffsaw too Derek - good quality, reasonable prices and great (e.g. fast) service.
I've purchased a range of bandsaw blades (various widths & tooth ratios) from him for my INCA bandsaw - but no way am I going to try cutting metal with it. It might well cut non-ferrous but so might SWMBO's bread knife given enough welly.
The INCA was designed to cut wood and it does so very well. I'm not about to risk 'naggering' one of my favourite wood working machines by trying to make it do something it was never intended for. If you want to cut metal Plasma - then get a saw designed to do so....there's quite a wide choice of them available.
|Thread: Copper for boiler construction|
Personally I would be very happy to view copper purchased from AJ Reeves as being from a "reputable supplier" - and I'm sure that there must be many engines still in service that have boilers built from materials supplied by Reeves at that time. I currently own four boilers, two built/tested & two unfinished - but I didn't purchase any of the original copper material for them - so I do not know what grade of copper was used and frankly I'm not going to worry too much about it either - at least as far as existing boilers are concerned.
Showing my ignorance perhaps - but I was not aware of the 'Oxygen-free' issue before reading Keith's post. I don't think I've seen this mentioned anywhere in any of the usual texts on the subject. Nor did it come up at the SF Boiler Inspectors Seminar that I attended a year or so ago (at least as far as I can recall - there's certainly nothing in the design notes provided).
However, if I were to purchase copper for a boiler in the future, it would now be something I'd certainly ask about. Whether Oxygen-Free is a real problem in actual model boiler practice, I'm not qualified to say. Nor do I know if there are cost implications in specifying O-F copper. Copper isn't exactly cheap whatever you buy.
However, we can speculate endlessly here about the suitability of your materials. Go talk to your Boiler Inspector and see what he (she?) thinks - then the two of you can agree the best way forward.
Paul M - I believe this is the relevant part of the current 'Orange' Book (Vol1)
7.4 The Inspector shall satisfy himself:
a. That the materials used are of adequate thickness and the correct specification.
b. That, where required by the build procedure, the relevant material certificates are provided.
c. That the boiler is constructed in accordance with the design drawings.
d. That the requirements of Paragraphs 5.1 to 5.4 have been met. e. That all joining procedures have been satisfactorily undertaken and that the joints are sound. Particular attention should be paid to the penetration of silver solder and the adequacy of any welds.
For a conventional silver-soldered copper boiler being built to an accepted (e.g. known) design - personally I would want to check that the material was of suitable thickness and that the builder understood current boiler construction & test requirements. Provided I received assurance that the materials had been sourced from a reputable supplier - then I personally would be happy to agree the next build stage and schedule further inspection & tests. However, another Boiler Inspector may take a very different view and my opinion might not be held by others. Interpretation of the codes can vary.
The best advice is always to go and talk to your Inspector and seek his advice and guidance.
Assuming you are a member of an Association, Club or Society Paul - go and talk to your Boiler Inspector and take your materials with you. I'm sure a sensible solution can be found.
|Thread: Impressive Workshop in Germany|
I let my Grandson into my Shed yesterday as I needed to find something and he was with me. He asked me where I'd got all my "Junk" from....
After watching this video - I am even more depressed...
|Thread: Dialect expressions|
It managed to pin me down quite well Neil.
Of course, a level of "contamination" tends to occur over many years. I grew up using the term 'Alleyways' but after many years of contact with my mate from Yorkshire - I've started to use some of his expressions - such as 'Snicket'....
As a young lad (in HM's Armed Forces) - no one else seemed to know what "Grouts" were (it was what's left in the bottom of your Mug after drinking Tea according to my Grandmother). But thinking about it - we didn't use tea bags then either....
|Thread: French Mystery Tool|
That's correct George, although to be absolutely accurate - the French refer to them as "Le Fer Grostling"
They should be heated to red-hot before insertion.
|Thread: ECLIPSE No 39 Drill Bit Sharpener|
Graham Meek has looked at the "Picador" type sharpeners with a view to improving them.
Have a look here: http://www.modelengineeringwebsite.com/Drill_grinding_jig_1.html
|Thread: edm machines|
Much as I'd like to build something as sophisticated (and impressive) as the EDM machine JA has built - I'm afraid it's never going to happen at this stage in life. However - whatever their limitations - there are much simpler designs around that I might consider building - especially for the removal of broken taps and making small 'oles-in-ard' things...
I saw this simple EDM set-up at Guildford MES in 2016 - and had a chat to the builder (sorry I did take his details but cannot find them att). As I understand it, an electromagnet pulls the anvil up until a capacitor fully charges, where upon it falls back and touches the work, thereby discharging the capacitor - and causing the required spark - the cycle then repeating ad-infinitum. A very simple concept and no complex electronics required.
I'm not sure if this is the same as one of the other EDM systems already mentioned and there may well be all sorts of limitations associated with this simplicity - but it would certainly cover most of my (admittedly) limited needs...and the work samples shown were quite impressive...
PS Sorry - image started off right way up but seems to have done a 90 degree rotation on up-load...
|Thread: LED replacement bulbs|
Same here Peter - I replaced all our existing bulbs around the house with LEDs about a year ago. All have been fine except those in 'enclosed' light fittings (such as the kitchen) where three out of the four there have failed recently. I've concluded they (LEDs) need lots of ventilation & cooling. I was kind of hoping that being lower powered - they would run cooler - but apparently not cool enough.
Fortunately (?) I kept the all previous fluorescent (CFL) type bulbs from around the house and I've used those as replacements where the LEDs have failed & frankly they did seem to last longer. A backward step I'm afraid but it will have to do until I can replace the enclosed fittings for something better.
|Thread: Simple WorkshopTips|
Sorting through some old G3 GTG photos earlier - and found these two (misfiled) images.
Long before I had my ER collets (and the previous Chinese 'standard' ones) - I purchased a couple of MT2 taper collets to hold milling cutters. With the arrival of something better they fell into disuse. However, I was doing something (long forgotten) that needed repeatable lengths setting up in the lathe chuck and I hadn't got around to making a chuck back-stop. I was pondering this problem when my eye caught one of my old MT collets on the shelf. A bit of swift drilling and tapping into some spare stock later - and I had the required back stop!
I keep meaning to make some more 'sophisticated' stops - ones that screw in & out and have different head diameters (etc) but I'm afraid I haven't done so thus far - although I did buy a MT1 collet recently (same holding diameter as the original one) so that I have the same facility on my small EW. That's it - a simple thing but it works quite well and can be improved if required.
|Thread: Suitability of hot rolled steel for machining|
Larry, not much 'raw' material is really round but I use my 3-jaw for holding all types of materials. However - you have to skim it true and then not remove it from the 3-jaw once trued (or it will not run true when replaced). A 4-jaw is useful when something that has already been 'trued' (by turning or grinding) needs to be set-up to run true (often for a second operation for instance).
If I have a piece of rod that I'm going to machine down - I'll generally just stick it in the 3-jaw, because it's quicker and simpler to do so. The 4-jaw generally gets used when I have something awkward to hold or where I need to set it to run true or (alternatively) have it run off-set (eccentrically).
So I think (and my apologies if I've misunderstood your question) the answer would be No - your 3-jaw chuck will normally be fine for hot-rolled rod.
Edited By IanT on 06/04/2019 13:38:56
|Thread: Stress Relieving Rolled Mild Steel|
That's right as far as I know Andrew (other Ian here)
My incinerator treatment builds up a deep ash bed and the bits inside are still very hot even 12-15 hours after the night before. I leave them there until I tip the whole lot out. So fairly prolonged high heat, followed by a slow cool. Not too scientifically controlled in my case perhaps - but I don't have the equipment to do anything else...
|Thread: A simple indexer|
Probably not cheaper (than making your own) Jann - but certainly easier - yes.
However if you do make something along these lines, then you can bore the holder at lathe centre height and then it becomes a useful accessory for the lathe too (even if you do have a mill).
I have a 'Timmins' dividing head that is designed to fit both the Myford cross-slide and (turning it through 90 degrees) gives more clearance (e.g. height) on the mill. It has a Myford 'nose' and a MT2 taper - so I can also fit my ER32/MT2 collet chuck to it if required. I got it after I'd purchased a Spindexer which is still used when I need a larger 5C collet.....
Nice work John.
|Thread: Building as Hand Operated Shaper|
There have a been a number of ideas published in this area Howard.
You could look at something like David Williams' version ( ME March 5th 1953 ) or perhaps you could think along more 'modern' lines and use a stepper motor to do the needful - which (as Joseph Noci has shown recently) can provide some interesting options.
PS If you PM me - I will dig out the Williams article for you.
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