Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: magic 127 TOOTH ?|
Me too Gordon. I don't cut that many metric threads on the S7 but when I have, a 127 & 50 gear set-up has worked just fine. You have to keep the cover open (so a bungee cord to keep it out the way is useful) but that's about it. Of course you need the 127 gear - but Chronos used to sell them and I think mine was about £13! May have been a few years back though....
|Thread: Bending brass|
I'm not sure how large/small this part is Chris but cutting a 90 degree 'V' on the fold line makes life much easier when doing this sort of work in brass. As a rough rule of thumb, the thicker the material the deeper the cut.
With most small fabrications you need to hold the parts together with pins/bolts/wire - and with thin-edged angled pieces this can be awkward - so having the parts still attached to each other is very useful. I use a hand shaper for this work but an engraving-type cutter in the mill or lathe will do the same job. Brush some flux on before folding to get it where you want it and apply a few pallions of solder along the fold. Apply heat from the outside of the work avoiding the actual fold line.
|Thread: The cultural status of engineers in the UK|
There's another world "outside"?
I've lived and worked in both Germany and Italy - where engineering certainly seems to be ranked and regarded equally alongside other "Professions".
When I worked Milan the Italian MD was a qualified mechanical engineer and was referred to by staff as "Ingegnere" (I think that's the right spelling) as a matter of respect...in the same way we might refer to a Doctor over here. Maybe if we regarded our Engineers as highly as the German and Italians do - more young people would be encouraged to study something useful rather than something less so.... (I don't think I'll qualify that any further)
|Thread: Cad drawing a tiny sprocket|
Have a look here if you need some ideas on how to draw a sprocket Vic...
|Thread: Burnt hands|
Hard question to answer Bill when I don't know the size of work you are attempting but several things occur to me. BTW, most of my fabrication & boiler work is relatively small and very large boiler work will present more challenges.
The first thing is that I try to apply the solder 'pallets' before I apply the heat where ever possible. This not only helps to minimise the amount of solder used but also means that you are not feeding solder in and your hand will not therefore get hot! Where I do need to feed the solder in, I do so only once the work is hot enough, so again my hand isn't near the radiant heat for too long, so doesn't tend to get that hot (I don't generally wear gloves either).
However, there have been a few occasions where (even with gloves) things were getting a bit warm and I've got a simple heat shield made from tinplate. It's just a square of tinplate (with a hole in it to poke the solder through) and it's very light to use and certainly helps deflect the heat. Most of the time however, I don't find it necessary.
Edited By IanT on 29/12/2019 12:51:28
|Thread: 5" gauge boiler rod stays|
I work in Gauge 3, so our boilers are smaller than 5" ones, although most are still >3 BL.
The Orange book here in UK really just requires the Inspector to make sure the boiler is constructed in accordance to the given design and it assumes that this has normally been published by the Trade or in the Modelling Press. Where this isn't the case, the "designer" is required to produce the necessary calculations in support of their (new) boiiler design - or if an existing design has been altered or will operate at a higher working pressure.
In terms of the actual build quality, the following guidance is given:
c. Check that copper fireboxes with girder stay arrangements have adequate penetration of silver solder to all joints. d. Check that hollow stays (e.g. for blower) that are fitted by mechanical means have adequate strength and integrity of joints
That's about it I think.
I also run Win 10 and have absolutely no problems with it.
Operating Systems are quite complex these days but also secure. So my understanding was (I worked in IT but have been retired for a while) that most professional 'Hackers' don't bother looking for security flaws, they simply wait for system updates (often designed to solve reported problems) and then seek to exploit the problems reported. They do this in the sure knowledge that there will be lot's of folk (including large businesses) who for whatever reason, have not updated their systems.
So, make sure you accept updates as they become available and if you must use old software, then use Windows compatibility mode or find a suitable Virtual Machine to run it on.
If you wish to stay on an 'unsupported' OS, then just be aware of this issue and (preferably) stay away from the Internet - or very much restrict what you do with that system on it.
And of course, even if you have all the latest OS updates, anti-virus etc - it will not protect you from yourself. So stay away from dodgy downloads, pornography, "free" gambling/games and anything else your Browser advises isn't safe!
|Thread: Making a superglue chuck adapter for brass wheel|
Just checked my back issues for "Making & Using Wax Chucks"
The Author was Tony Bird and the three articles were published in ME (not MEW) in late October & November.
Numbers 4623 to 4625
I was going to mention the very good articles on using wax chucks quite recently in MEW (or was it ME?).
I don't have the magazines to hand (or I would name the Author) but if he reads this, then thank you - I enjoyed reading them and will try some of the different methods you mention.
PS Shellac can be purchased from Cousins UK - you'll need to get the semi-clear kind, which comes as a 'stick'.
|Thread: Castings, creating a datum before milling|
Purists look away now....
I recall having great trouble with some bronze frame castings for a 3.5 inch NG 'Lew' many years ago (I was attending evening classes). I machined the first one and took too much metal off, so purchased a second one and did exactly the same thing again (and No, I've never met Einstein)
I was really 'miffed' shall we say - but Pete (one of the Instructors) said no problem and we walked over to the Welding shop and he soldered a lump of brass on it and then I was able to machine everything to size!
Not best practice but sometimes much better than buying another casting...
|Thread: One-shot Myford lubrication system|
I think Arc still have a few of the required parts in their "Clearance" section.
I did think about this when the original article was published but frankly it seemed quite complicated to do every oiling point. I think if I was to do something like this, I would just try to supply the hard-to-reach points (like the back of the saddle) with a simpler system. Some of my other machines might benefit from this too - maybe as simple as an extended pipe to make the oil point accessible without breaking my neck or moving the machine.
Edited By IanT on 21/12/2019 13:49:47
|Thread: Heatshrink tubing|
Occasionally our friends at Lidls have a box of assorted (diameter) heat shrink - purchased mine a few years back for about £3 and it's handy stuff to have. Worth watching for - and even better, it can go on the grocery bill
Edited By IanT on 20/12/2019 21:38:51
|Thread: Castings, creating a datum before milling|
Castings are definitely a mixed blessing Garry.
For your castings I'd do exactly as Jason advises and clean it up and then very lightly machine your reference surface. It's easy to assume that a casting has enough 'meat' all around and to try to get down to a clean surface on the first pass - and then you find that there is not enough left elsewhere to end up with the stated dimensions.
I've recently machined several pairs of cylinder castings for use in a published locomotive design. There wasn't enough metal to get smooth surfaces all around in either pair- so you really have to decide where to compromise or simply change the design. For these castings of yours (and any other castings involved) it will pay to look at the item "in the round" and make sure you don't have to adjust something before you start.
In the cylinders I had to balance the machining at each end-face because the friend I was doing them for had already ordered laser cut frames (to the drawing) and the cylinder cut-out is oversize to the available metal in the castings supplied. Both ends could have been cut back to clean surfaces if the frame cut-out could have been reduced. The design also specified a 1/2" bore but on both cylinder sets the core was already 12mm and the cores weren't central either (one cylinder was offset by nearly 3mm) so to bore & ream them to the given size was impossible.
The flanges need to be symmetrical to the body, so I always set-up based on those (rather than the bores). The final bore size (pre-reaming) on this pair was about 16mm & I obviously had to do both cylinders the same. I'm sure it will all pan out but with castings you really have to have a good look at them and think ahead a bit.
In many ways small fabrications, whilst they need more work up-front, are a bit easier when you come to actually machine them.
Edited By IanT on 20/12/2019 17:25:53
|Thread: Stevensons original collet blocks & Arc Euro 6" grinder|
Generally agree with what has been said before Chris but will add a few other things which might be useful. It's a kind of 'Evolution' story in terms of my collet collection...
Before the JS ER32 Blocks were available, the (Hobbyist) Trade only offered 5C collet blocks - so that's what I originally purchased. 5Cs will hold up to 28mm round stock but you can also get square and hex collets. They are for just a 'single' size but that may not be a problem for specific projects (I only have a few sizes). The quick release lever-type 5C holder can be more convenient than ER when working on multiple parts.
At this time I also had a 'Chinese' MT2 collet chuck (with non-ER collets) - but we can skip over that as ancient history...
My Spin Indexer was also 5C but then JS introduced his ER32 adaptor for it - so I started to use (and like) ER32 collets. In terms of work holding size - you can now get ER40 of course (max 26mm?) but I'm invested in ER32 - so the 5C is still handy occasionally.
I also have a 'bearing' nut that gets used when I really need to take a ER32 collet down near it's minimum - and it does make life much easier (especially if you have trouble gripping things too hard) but for anything near the 'max' diameter of the collet - the normal nut is perfectly useable. I've also mentioned before that a few Imperial collets can help in this area - If I have some 6.2mm material to hold - a 1/4" (6.35mm) collet is easier to use than a 7mm one...
All my collets/chucks have come from Arc Euro (and I've no complaints) - so I cannot speak to other suppliers.
Collets & Collet blocks are very useful things to have and the more you use them - the more uses you seem to find for them. Hope this hasn't been too far off-topic...
Edited By IanT on 15/12/2019 15:13:10
|Thread: Slip gauges|
I purchased mine from eBay but I will admit to being nervous - as you really don't know what you are getting just from a photo of them sitting in the box. I was very lucky and my set is in very good condition (most will wring together). One of the set (88) was missing but by coincidence I spotted the required gauge the following week (a brand new Mitutoyo) for a reasonable price.
I do use them and (for the price I paid) I'm happy to own them. For most home workshops, they are not essential (you can find other ways usually) but they are a "nice to have" if the price is right. I think mine might have been inspection grade originally but they certainly won't be now. Not a problem - I doubt any home workshop would really need that level of accuracy - and the high cost wouldn't make sense.
|Thread: Machine reamer diameters?|
From the 'Cutting Tool Handbook' - SKF Dormer Tools
"To obtain the best results when reaming it is essential that the reamers are made to 'work'. It is a common fault to prepare holes with too little stock left in them. If only a bare amount is left in the hole before reaming, the reamer will scrape and rub and quickly show wear with consequent loss of diameter.
It is essential to understand that parallel (machine) reamers only cut on the bevel lead and that parallel hand reamers with bevel and taper leads may cut on both but that neither do any cutting on the parallel lands on the body."
I've not sharpened any of my reamers but I have (carefully) stoned the odd 'nick' out (some slight edge damage) - as far as I know without changing the nominal size. If/when I do sharpen any - I would only touch the cutting edges as advised by Dormer...
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019|
I was busy using a piercing saw last night to rough out some swing latches in 1/16th brass - and it was all going very well. I haven't broken a blade for a quite while....
I must be getting better at this [I thought] or just plain lucky - Plang!! - at which point the blade broke.
OK - it was luck then...
|Thread: Making Progress with TurboCAD|
Nigel, I am a long term user of TurboCAD DeLuxe - having started with v4 and progressed though v9 and I'm now using v16 (I don't bother with every release - went to v16 for W10)
I really struggled at first too - then kind of got the hang of 'snaps' (crucial to know) but was using the mouse + icons/menus to do everything. It worked but wasn't really great.
I then watched Paul "the CAD" videos on YT and took his advice to start over and just use key stroke commands from a clutter free (clean) screen. There are only a few k/s you need for the main 'snaps' and it was very easy to convert. Layers are extremely useful to seperate parts, construction lines, dimensions etc - as well as enabling different colours to be automatically used for each one.
The difference between model and paper worlds isn't that obvious when starting out - but essentially - I now draw everything as one large 'model' (with layers) and then take whatever views (e.g. drawings) I need in 'paper' space via the viewports. Again Paul the CAD has a video that explains all this very well. Once explained, these things become very easy and you will be very happy with TC!
However - I have decided that TC/DL is only going to be my 2D CAD tool - I will use something else for 3D.
TC/DL does do basic 3D but frankly I struggled with it (even after watching the videos) and many essential features are apparently only available in the 'Pro' (e.g. expensive) version of TC. But I really do recommend Paul the CAD - watch his basic 2D YTs and you will be delighted with your progress I think...
Edited By IanT on 08/12/2019 23:56:27
|Thread: Arc euro micro drill adaptor|
Where drilling in a mill with no quill where raising the table won't give you ANY feedback/feel at all. The knees on horizonal mills are heavy old lumps (& need gearing to lift them) - so very good in some respects but a real pain in this particular one.
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