Here is a list of all the postings Bizibilder has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: ML7 how much space needed?|
I would leave at least two feet (24" ) clear if you have the space. This allows you more than enough room to open the covers and fiddle about with the change gears, to feed a two foot length of stock into the machine from the change gear cover end when required, use a "bonker" for knocking out morse tapers (I use a piece of brass rod for this), use a cleaning brush to push swarf out of the chuck end of the mandrel (the other way and you drop swarf all over the change gears!). It also allows you just enough room to get round for access to the motor and its pulleys (assuming you are slim enough !!
Edited By Bizibilder on 02/02/2020 14:56:27
|Thread: Trying to learn about Clock Gears|
Try this book: Book about £30 with no postage to pay. This tells you all you could possibly need to know about clock wheel cutting.
There are also clock wheel drawing and calculating programs available on the web - Google will help you.
You can buy cutters (which are extremely expensive!!) or make your own - which is quite easy to do, especially after a bit of practice. Forget pressure angles and involute curves - these do not apply to clock wheels or pinions.
Edited By Bizibilder on 22/12/2019 13:17:27
|Thread: Does anyone know about this dividing head.|
|Thread: Unimat 3 dividing head|
They should have those specified numbers of holes in them - possibly in the back?
|Thread: Mystery Tooling|
Drill grinding jig.
|Thread: smooth cut in brass|
Cutting edge on centre height and a flat topped tool (ie no top rake) for brass. The finish can also be affected by the grade of brass that you re trying to cut. If it is CZ121 (as used by clockamkers among others) it should cut freely and easily with the swarf coming off as thousands of tiny chips spraying all over the place! If it comes off as a string and forms a birdsnest of tangles you have the "wrong" sort of brass for machining. It will machine but you will struggle to get a decent finish.
|Thread: Guess the Chemical?|
Distilled (or deionised) water.
|Thread: How badly do I need a surface plate?|
The old favourite is a piece of plate glass which is flat enough for amateur use as a surface plate. A modern alternative is a polished granite cutting board - under £20 from a well known auction site and many supermarkets. I checked mine with a new good quality 300mm steel ruler and feelers - I cannot get a 1.5 thou feeler between the ruler and the board in any position. More than good enough!
|Thread: Toyo ML210 Milling Attachment Help Needed|
Edited By Bizibilder on 23/06/2019 16:38:32
|Thread: Turning long slender arbors|
You say you have Myford collets in Imperial and Cowells in Metric? You should be OK to turn clock arbours with them - Just hold the embryo arbour in the collet of choice and machine one end, turn the arbour round and machine the other end. Collets should hold the arbour with little or no run-out. There is no need for a tailstock centre for this work or to work between centres. I'm not saying you shouldn't work between centres, just that it is not essential. For final filing and burnishing you may find making a Jacot tool will help (Google will find info for you).
If you want to do some "bulk removal" of metal on an arbour - say to make an integral pinion - you can get most of the waste removed using the three-jaw and then change over to collets to finish off.
For pivots the finish you get from the late tool and the exact pivot size is not that important as pivots are always finished and burnished with a pivot file (which are expensive but essential!).
In clockmaking the hole for a pivot is always broached out to fit the pivot - you do not need to know the exact size - just drill the hole slightly undersize and broach to fit. Broaches make a tapered hole so that you only get a tiny "ring of contact" with the arbour to minimise friction. This can take a bit of practice to get right but is quite easy to do. John Wildings books do give more detail of how to do it.
It makes no difference if your arbours are metric or imperial - just use the appropriate collets and make all the parts to fit each other. If the design calls for 1/8" you can use 3mm (or 4mm) just as easily - or buy some blue pivot steel of the appropriate size and use that - it is not available in all sizes so you often have to compromise. Always use the "next size up" to avoid making things too flimsy - the loads on clock arbours can be quite high especially on arbours close to the weight or spring.
As for tooling HSS will work perfectly well and home made silver steel cutters also work. Nothing wrong with carbides and inserted tool bits - its just that they are not necessary. It seems they have a reputation for solving your turning problems. They don't. A sharp tool presented to the work at the correct angle and at centre height will cut and give a good finish.
Edited By Bizibilder on 26/05/2019 12:08:55
Edited By Bizibilder on 26/05/2019 12:12:01
|Thread: Getting rid of the garage door...........|
I've seen a garage (not mine) where the owner had put an insulated stud wall across the garage about 3-4 feet inside the main door. This turned most of the garage into a cosy workshop accessed by the side door and, by using the main garage door, you had a convenient small store room for garden equipment. It also left the building looking like a garage and again easily converted back to one if they should ever move away.
Edited By Bizibilder on 24/05/2019 20:01:28
|Thread: Lubrication of Quorn grinder spindle|
Lots of heavy boxes needed to be moved but I now have those issues of MEW (MEW 62 and 63)- Thank you that is about the most comprehensive review of the Quorn and all the associated articles and literature that I have seen. Not sure how i missed it when searching but I did! Thank you John.
|Thread: T nut slot channel|
Try Unistrut channel - they do various sizes and you may find what you need.
|Thread: Lubrication of Quorn grinder spindle|
Thanks. Every twenty years it is - should be around long enough for the first re-oiling but i'd have to be well over 100 to make it to the second!!
Edited By Bizibilder on 07/05/2019 19:39:40
Edited By Bizibilder on 07/05/2019 19:41:26
I'm making a Quorn type grinder (actually a Bonelle) and cannot find one vital piece of information: How much lubricant do you need in the spindle?
I assume oil is introduced via the 2ba hole about half way along the spindle housing but how much? One drop? A teaspoon full? or enough to flood out of both ends via the bearing caps? Is there a builder or owner out there who can guide me. Thanks.
Edited By Bizibilder on 07/05/2019 18:18:56
|Thread: Advice on Choosing A Mini Lathe|
Yes a lathe "rated" at 220v will be perfectly OK in the UK where we actually have a mains supply of 230v (and not 240v) these days!!
A swift google will bring up the explanation for you.
|Thread: Windows Update (Again)|
Sounds like it has reverted to a US keyboard - change back to UK in settings and you should find the keys to be correct again.
|Thread: Paper Airplane machine|
Lego Plane folder And several more if you search.
|Thread: Machining cork!|
Have a look online at methods of shaping cork fishing rod handles - lots of advice and videos etc.
|Thread: anyone recognise this milling machine|
Chester Champion. Also an identical model sold as the Warco ZX15. Now both discontinued models.
Edited By Bizibilder on 10/02/2019 21:38:49
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