Here is a list of all the postings MichaelR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: valve seats|
I think you would be better making bronze valve pockets and press fit in cylinder head, you will get a better and long lasting seat for the valve.
|Thread: Piston Ring Material|
Thanks Jens, I will be visiting my local car breaker, never gave a thought to the cast iron content of a scrapped car.
|Thread: Drilling problem - the sequel.|
Give the drill point a little flat by rubbing on a oil stone, in other words blunt the drill, doing this can help, it also works when drilling Perspex..
|Thread: Hall Effect Sensor|
Have a look at this siteHere they stock spare Hall effect sensors for model ignition systems also magnets and complete ignition systems.
|Thread: Lathe open gearing lubrication|
Rocol Make a good open gear lubricant seeHere
Insert an round headed snap head rivet from the inside. Knock the protruding rivet stem on the outside of the frame into the countersunk hole and then file flat.
As you say, is the way to do the job.
|Thread: Subscription number|
After trying many different permutations of my subscription number I finally succeeded thanks to your post.
I now look forward to going through the back numbers.
I am still working with Calipers, Dividers and rule, and making one part to fit another
|Thread: Stuart No 501 Boiler Pressure Gauge|
In the 1981 Stuart Catalogue the 501 boiler used a Syphon No 113/2 which was screwed 3/16" for a 3/4" dia face dial, the 3/4" and 1" dia gauges use the same spec syphon. As the boiler is rated at 60 lbs a 80lbs gauge would do, I think the 3/4" dia gauge would look OK on that boiler. By the way a 3/4" dia gauge is listed with the No 1035 Marine Boiler.
|Thread: Oliver Tiger|
New Oliver Tiger info on this site.
|Thread: RLE Engine|
Mike, Have a look at this site regarding the RLE it gives a good account of a complete rebuild of the RLE lots of pictures.
|Thread: Rivets and Riveting|
The rivet stem should be one and a half times it's diameter longer than the the the thickness of the material it's joining
Iron rivets are soft so shouldn't need heating, I have annealed copper rivets before heading.
|I first form the rivet head using a flat end punch and I work around the rivet forming a turned over edge something like the rag on a well used cold chisel, then I finish off the head with the head forming snap. I find that I can control the shaping of the rivet better by using this method.|
|Thread: hunt for a past model maker|
|Try this web site and look in the history page http://www.hwsme.org.uk/history.htm you may find a lead for what you are looking for.|
|Thread: Piston Ring Material|
Thanks for the info, I hadn't given any thought regarding hard spots in the cored bar, not a good thing with piston rings.
Like John I will get a large drill and continue to make swarf
I make my own Piston Rings for my Hit and Miss IC engines, and have to use solid cast iron bar, of course most of the bar is bored out to swarf and bar is not cheap.
I have never come across cored cast iron in any advertisements in the modelling press, anybody know if cored cast iron is available in model engine sizes.
|Thread: Jan Ridders Pressure-controlled Two-stroke engine|
John, Could you fix the magnet in a brass or alloy insert and fit that insert into the fly wheel, this would save you making a new flywheel and may get you up and running quicker.
I have a RLE Hit and Miss engine and have the magnet fitted to a alloy disc which is fitted to the half speed timing gear, see here hope this works !!
The ignition system is a buzz coil kit that I had to make up.
|Thread: Ignition coils for small engines|
A UK supplier for ignition systems here
At the moment I am using the Jerry Howell Buzz coil circuit on my RLE Hit and Miss engine, these circuits had to be made up from components, the systems on the above site are ready to go which sounds good.
Edited By David Clark 1 on 26/06/2009 08:11:52
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.