Here is a list of all the postings ega has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Black scale and green soft soap|
Thanks for your comments. When I rang the help line, in response to my saying I thought that the product was less transparent than before, they mentioned that the proportion of glycerine had been increased . Apparently, it has been made in India for twenty years which surprised me. I can still manage the welding trick by leaving the sliver on the wetted replacement overnight; it was this "soft" characteristic that made me think it might be suitable for the anti-scaling purpose.
Needless to say, the helpful woman on the help line had not heard of Punch's "Two years ago I used your Soap, since when I have used no other".
PS: punch line rather than help line!
Edited By ega on 18/08/2015 12:51:23
|Thread: Learning the lathe|
There is also Stan Bray's "The Compact Lathe" - "the sort of lathe that is easily portable".
|Thread: Angle Grinder Safety|
Good point about unplugging but when working at the end of a long extension cord there is a temptation to ignore this. All my portable power tools have a short lead terminating in a push fit connector so disconnecting is no problem.
|Thread: How to ensure parallelism of several holes in long rod|
Are the holes radial or axial (ie cross holes or lengthwise)?
If radial as I assume, drill the first hole, insert a close-fitting rod, move the work and align by sighting the rod.
The kitchen is a kind of workshop and deserves consideration; good luck with yours!
|Thread: Black scale and green soft soap|
Long ago I tried to follow GHT's recommendation of soft soap to prevent scaling but I have never had much success with the anonymous product I obtained from a friend answering this description. From memory it was indeed green but, years later, it has turned a dark chocolate colour.
I just turned up Tubal Cain's thoughts on the subject in WPS 1. In the absence of ceramicist's "Anti-Scale Paint", he favoured powdered chalk mixed with water or meths and, whilst aware of the horologist's practice of using soft soap, surprisingly had not tried it himself.
"Bar soap" here at home is Pears and the list of ingredients mentions a number of sodium compounds which suggests it is unsuitable if I correctly understand the Wiki disambiguation entry; the Pears helpline did not know whether it was a sodium or a potassium process. One should obviously read the label but it seems that the production process may not be given, so my question is: does the mention of sodium compounds indicate unsuitability for this purpose?
Roderick Jenkins' suggestion may be the answer but who needs 5 kilos?
|Thread: Angle Grinder Safety|
I'm glad that you don't suffer from vibration; no doubt individual susceptibilities differ. Nicholas Farr has made an interesting point. As has already been said, these tools need firm handling but a "white knuckle" grip seems likely to make the problem worse. I don't think the modern soft start feature has been mentioned - definitely an advantage when turning on a 9" grinder!
FWIW, I see that Colin Furze wears gloves when angle grinding.
Did anyone mention the very useful diamond cutting discs now available at affordable prices?
I second the comments about white finger, use anti-vibration gloves and try to avoid grinding for more than a few minutes at a time.
|Thread: Missing threads|
My Willson slant bed goes against convention by listing 0.625mm pitch on the gearbox chart, not a common thread so far as I know. It is, of course, an imperial lathe but a useful range of metric threads is instantly available and it has true conversion via a 127/125 pair.
The chart lists some imperial oddities also, such as 4 3/4 tpi, and I think the designers just "did the maths" and put the results in what would otherwise have been blank spaces!
|Thread: Gear cutting calculation - 73 teeth|
I seem to remember seeing somewhere that Myford lead screws were made by a "thread whirling" process - I assume this meant some kind of rolling process.
|Thread: Model and engineering videos on youtube|
I found this rather charmingin its way:
|Thread: Arrand for sale|
No answer to their phone (01664 454566) today so I suppose this excellent firm may well have ceased to function.
I wanted to ask about their QC tail stock tooling as mentioned by SteveI; I should be glad to see a photo and to know how it works. I'm guessing the interchangeable holders are held on a short taper but have no idea as to how they would be held?
Arrand items sometimes turn up on eBay but I have never seen the tail stock tooling offered.
|Thread: Super 7s and power cross feed|
GHT graduated to a PCF model and if I remember aright used to part off under power. An earlier ME contributor was Martin Cleeve who was of the same opinion as John Stevenson, although the latter is understating the Seven's cross slide movement.
Is there anything in the idea that the keyway in the PCF leadscrew has a "tapping" effect on the half nuts?
|Thread: Thread mill|
JAR did describe "A Thread Milling Attachment for the Lathe"; apart from ME, it is in the TEE Publishing book "Improvements & Accessories for your Lathe".
I believe the Quick Step Mill will do the same job.
|Thread: Slotted spring pins|
I have never heard them called that! Halfords used to do a useful mixed roll pin set in metric sizes. Perhaps a 1.5mm pin would do?
|Thread: Setting up a Clarke CBS45 bandsaw.|
Thanks for the helpful link and for giving some indication of its content. Whilst I take for granted the good intentions of those who post links on this site, I do like to have some idea of what is in the bag I am about to put my head into and have often been reluctant to click on a link where there is no indication of what it does. I have no doubt this has meant going without useful information on occasion and should appreciate others following your example.
|Thread: Prepping & painting of castings.|
I have sent you a message.
The late Denis Chaddock went into the process in some detail in his book about the Quorn. I could email an extract to you.
For what it is worth, I do not share the current general enthusiasm for powder coating either.
After the initial fettling, it can be helpful to apply an initial coat of primer before machining which seems to make for a cleaner job.
|Thread: Epoxy Bearing Materials and Method|
Many thanks for the additional practical points which reminded me of the problems I faced when rebuilding my Super Seven. I had the bed professionally ground and remachined the saddle, etc myself. If I had had the advantage of knowing your method then I would certainly have considered it. I didn't record the amount of wear in my case but I doubt if it was as much as 2mm and I suppose that in your case the lathe had simply had a lot of use.
Someone commented on your Antipodean location which reminded me that the late J A Radford of New Zealand was an Araldite exponent.
I found a good deal of interest in this revived thread, not least in your presentation once I was able to view it!
I dumped MS Office some years ago and currently use the ("free" Document Foundation suite. In retaliation (?) MS Windows Firewall blocked the Document Foundation presentation program from displaying your low-res images so I took a hint from Michael Gilligan and viewed them satisfactorily on my (Samsung) tablet via the bundled Polaris office suite.
It was very encouraging to see your splendid lathe rehabilitated through the magic of epoxy resin.
Your last slide asked for questions. Was there any discussion of slideway lubrication and whether it is needed with this method?
|Thread: Starrett Vice hold Downs|
"STARRETT Hold Downs are of improved design to firmly hold work flat on a machine bed or in a vise. They are particularly useful for holding small work or thin materials without distortion.
The contact edges are tapered to hold the work securely and to force it downward to the bed of the machine or against any parallel surface.
The hold downs are made of tool steel, hardened and ground."
Extract from Starrett catalogue - hope it helps.
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