Here is a list of all the postings ega has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New lathe arrived today : The ongoing saga|
GHT rules me from his grave! - a great shame that we don't have the benefit of his views on current developments.
I mentioned ball-ended adjusters but a simpler way of achieving the same effect is to centre drill the end of the screw and interpose a steel ball. And an alternative to dowelling as a way of restraining the gib laterally is to install keeps at each end although this would often be more work than the simple dowel which I agree needs to be done correctly.
I don't know the detailed construction of your cross slide, but with the common parallel gib, slip-stick can be caused by the ends of the adjusting screws riding up the side of the dimple in the gib thus effectively increasing the tightness of the slide; coming back the other way the effect is reversed. The answer is either to dowel the gib to prevent relative movement or to use ball-ended adjusting screws.
|Thread: why spider?|
The late Clifford Bower showed a design for a device similar to Michael Gilligan's link in his invaluable manual Aids to Workshop Practice, with the refinement of a detachable centre plug to control the length of the jaws' grip. He called it a "Chucked-Work End-Stop"; I think I prefer spider!
The creatures of the same name are very plentiful in the garden at the moment. More to the point, naughty boy could have invited his child to look it up - COD has "any object having radiating spokes".
|Thread: 1" X 5 Acme tap|
In defence of of the home shop guy, the latter gets four times the fun!
The limiting factor seems to be the core size of the nut; I believe GHT managed to cut one as small as 3/8". Can you remember any details of this interesting operation? I imagine that in most cases the tool has the same profile as the thread but I wonder if there might be some advantage in a narrower tool which could cut alternately on leading and trailing flanks.
|Thread: Is it worth adding a power feed|
Thanks for your interest (you may remember our earlier correspondence).
In my experience owners don't appear to know how to spell it either! Fortunately, search engines are alive to that although it is faintly irritating to be asked if I meant "Wilson".
My lathe is no 13582/906 and information on lathes.co.uk suggests that it is a "very late" model although, I believe, still called a Mark I. I have always understood that these lathes date from the 1960s but I should be interested in a more precise date.
Here is a photo of the cross slide handle on my Willson slant bed. It's a simple piece of flat MS with a hole to slip over the standard handle and another hole to receive the extension handle; the latter came from Arceuro and was modified by having its rotating centre removed and being tapped for the retaining screw. My top slide handle is made on similar lines and I was prompted to make it by a need to improve the finish of tapers. The "inspiration" may have come from the late D H Chaddock whose Quorn book has several photos of his own similar device.
I have just noticed that in my post of 14/09 I said "top and top slides" when I meant cross and top slides. It looks as though the ability to correct mistakes by editing is not available at this stage.
|Thread: A rather reduced price 75-100mm 3-4" micrometer|
Thanks for the detailed reply. To illustrate your point about who owns what, I was surprised to learn that VW indirectly own Ducati. The name Draper rang a bell with me because I had saved some information about the firm's history and couldn't remember anything in it about Mitutoyo. Some of this info is in the relevant Wiki and there is some interesting material in the Mitutoyo ditto.
I have a slightly sentimental attachment to the products of Ambrose Shardlow as a friend gave me an unusual combination 1"/2" mic by them, essentially a 2" device with a removeable one inch long anvil. Since then I have acquired a number of other mics by the firm, mostly ex-WD.
I've never handled the new digital type and wonder what the working principle is - obviously not the same as the ubiquitous digital scale which reads a printed pattern.
Did Draper buy Mitutoyo or vice versa? In either case, can you elaborate?
Years ago I was given a Mitutoyo Combimike which I think may be your non-preferred type. I have no experience of the present type but despite the Combi's clunkiness compared to a conventional mic I do value its ablity to display both metric and imperial simultaneously and, of course, it doesn't have a battery!
|Thread: New lathe arrived today : The ongoing saga|
I just went back to page 1 of this saga to remind myself of the identity of the machine concerned and note that the English distributor is Excel Machine Tools which treats its customers "with the best service you'll find".
The OP is lucky to have received such detailed and helpful advice from the forum; not sure how far he asked the supplier for help.
Comments about the German reputation for quality engineering are very topical given the damage being done to the VW brand.
I know of no formal reviews but can tell you that I am very pleased with my Vertex tapping chuck.
|Thread: VFD braking?|
Many thanks for your rapid reply. I shall have another look at the manual in the light of your comments.
You don't say what woodturning lathe you have but on my Graduate I have always followed the advice of the late Peter Child and slowed the lathe by pressure on the LH faceplate when turning between centres. I accept this doesn't answer your question directly and, like you, am no expert on VFDs. I don't have one on my machine but feel it would be very useful as changing the belt is tiresome.
I found your explanation to Vic helpful. Are you by any chance also conversant with the TECO Minicon VFDs? I have never got round to fitting the braking resistor which the supplier provided mainly because despite diligent reading of the manual I was not clear as to where it should be fitted.
My VFD runs my metal lathe where consistent, rapid braking would be a great help with screwcutting.
|Thread: Worn Myford|
As far as measurement without dismantling goes, about .032".
The book is "Improvements and Accessories for your Lathe" and contains reprints of many, some very ambitious, projects originally published in ME. It also contains a purported photo of "the author in his study" which was in fact of the late H A Taylor; I don't know if this has been corrected in any subsequent edition,
I don't claim any particular expertise here and, of course, accept that there must be some swivelling of the saddle under load. So far as lubrication is concerned, I am a long term fan of Rocol Ultraglide despite its expense.I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned that the narrow guide setup means that the tailstock shares the inside edge of the front shear with the saddle step which may aggravate the problem. As I understand it, and I welcome enlightenment from others, Myfords changed their design from narrow to wide and, from what you say, did so against their better judgment. I have great respect for the views of the late T D Walshaw and would be interested in knowing his reasons for converting wide to narrow. Narrow is obviously better if it can be made to work and it may be that proper adjustment and lubrication can achieve that. I remain on JAR's side of the discussion.
Many thanks for so promptly granting my wish and I hope it helps the OP amongst others.
In answer to CotswoldsPhil, I modified my S7 saddle many years ago with a simplified version of JAR's method: essentially, just inserting a strip of gauge plate between the rear step of the saddle and the (unworn) rear shear. Whether one follows JAR completely or not, his article is well worth reading for anyone with a worn Myford saddle.
I would also recommend dowelling the front gib strip to prevent lateral movement against the adjusting screws and making up a new, full-width, felt wiper to the saddle.
Neil Wyatt: so far as I am aware, I've never suffered from jamming and the saddle still moves very sweetly the full length of the bed. JAR's article is reprinted in the TEE book but I wondered if it could be made available on the website (if not already)? Another thing I would like to see is an authoritative explanation of how and why Myfords came to see the light. I'm guessing that the Seven's saddle was designed as a development of earlier, shorter, Myford saddles and so "inherited" that wear-prone front step.
|Thread: Is it worth adding a power feed|
Has anyone mentioned the old idea of fitting a larger throw handle to the cross slide, etc? I have made up quickly-fitted extenders to both top and top slides for my larger lathe and find them helpful in obtaining better finish. I have power crossfeed on that machine and do use it but, of course, on a facing cut conventional PXF cannot give constant surface speed. Hand feeding in conjunction with judicious speed increase can give an approximation to CSS.
|Thread: Power tapping|
Small fine thread taps in thin material are OK with a hand drill where the sensitivity should help to avoid breakage. In your 1/2" plate you might try the combined drill/taps which come with a hex shank in combination with the clutch feature on the drill; Axminster do a set which might be suitable.
|Thread: Packaging stupidity!|
Caveat venditor, too! IIRC, some years ago a well-known skin cream manufacturer was successfully prosecuted for falsely over-stating the quantity of their product; the misrepresentation lay in the oversize container with the empty compartment in the bottom.
|Thread: Ground Flat Stock|
Great-looking cutter! Might you give a little more information? I'm intrigued by the apparent Rippa effect on the relieved flanks of the teeth.
|Thread: happy customer|
Thank you for clearing that up. Coincidentally, I had occasion to speak to Dave at Drives Direct and he mentioned that Direct Drives is in the tarmac business - inversion is a powerful thing!
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