Here is a list of all the postings ega has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Shop vac recommendations please|
In view of other posts about the Wickes branded product, I think my machine is the older type, possibly the same as Neil's, which uses a semipermanent cloth bag filter and replaceable paper outer bag. I prefer this type as the cartridges are expensive (interesting tip about using a washable filter but a lot of what goes into mine would not wash off).
Mine came with a (?) waterproof cover over the switch which was such a nuisance that I discarded it. I'll try to remember not to store rust remover on top of it!
My Wickes Wet 'n' Dry has been excellent.
|Thread: Hacksaw versus Bandsaw|
Can we assume for the purpose of this discussion that "6 x 4" is the same thing as 4 x 6, and vice versa?
Ian S C:
Was overheating an issue for you, please?
Do the "leave it to beaver" ones get 'otter?
|Thread: Cutting a fine groove|
"My 'groover' is a bit of Junior hacksaw blade"
This interested me as I have always thought the Junior blades were made from old tobacco tin lids! This clearly works for you, of course, and I may give it a try. The Junior blades do seem to be a few thou thinner than a conventional 12" hacksaw blade and a good deal thinner than standard parting blades.
Given that it seems necessary to grind the teeth off the blade an all hard type would appear to be a better bet.
|Thread: Hacksaw versus Bandsaw|
This struck a chord with me as my ancient 4x6 Warco bandsaw motor does run very hot. I notice that the motor plate includes the wording "TEMP RISE 55 deg C". My interpetration of this is that it is permissible to run the motor at, say, 55 + 20 (room temperature) = 75 deg C. On prolonged cuts I have attempted to monitor the motor casing temperature by using a Maplin laser thermometer and have given the motor a rest when the temperature seemed too high.
I'm not sure whether the "rest" should be a switch off or continuing to run off load so that the fan can do its work. Like Rik Shaw with his much newer machine I am using one of Tuff Saws' excellent blades. I can't say I have noticed any burning smells, however.
Bought new in 1981 the machine cost me £166; this compares with £215 for the newer machine with slightly less capacity and VAT now at 20% as opposed to 15% in 1981.
I realize this is a bit OT but would be interested in the views of other owners on the hot running point.
|Thread: Reducing Bush|
I, too, strongly agree with Tim Stevens point both here and in general; it's often much easier to help someone nearby and very easy to give some indication of whereabouts via the public profile.
In the present case, were I doing the job I would have welcomed the opportunity to fit the bush to the blade even if the spindle were not available to check the fit of the bore. Commercial blades, bushes and spindles are all made to tolerances and a properly shop-made item is likely to be a better job than the bought item; I have just had to correct an expensive blade (by a Swiss maker, no less) which was slightly under-sized in the bore.
I am glad that someone has stepped up to the (saw) plate to help Clive B 1. Perhaps those flanges could receive some attention also.
Clive B 1:
"I think a bush 1.2mm thick should be suitable so it's slightly thinner than the saw blade, so the clamping plates will clamp the saw blade and not the bush."
Aren't your flanges (clamping plates) recessed?
Obviously, there is little point in the bush being thicker than the plate but it might as well be as thick so as to give maximum contact with saw and spindle.
Edited By ega on 23/06/2017 14:33:32
|Thread: power for a wiper motor|
I know very little about this but might the problem lie in your choice of PC PSU? I have half a dozen of varying ages doing nothin here.
|Thread: Quorn rotating base?|
See ME 5 September 1986 where DHC describes the modified rotating base (I can email an extract if you haven't got this issue).
|Thread: what is the purpose of these 2 items?|
At first I thought the second item was the screwcutting indicator ...
|Thread: 6mm oil tempered hard board|
Thanks for the tip - good to know that the only way is not Essex!
Years ago I was rather spoilt as I lived directly opposite a firm that stocked OTHB. A short walk away was a proper timber merchant and I recall in an emergency "walking" an 8x4 home by fastening a wheel to one corner.
You have it very good in the Midlands. So far as I am aware it's not available in any thickness here in Kent.
A couple of my benches were topped with OTHB and I'd love to get some more. It also makes very good templates for routing.
By way of consolation, I have recently discovered phenolic faced ply, an excellent material.
|Thread: Myford Rear Tool Post "Block"|
"I'm convinced that the permanent fitting is a major reason for the success of rear mounted parting off tools."
That's a very interesting and persuasive argument in the debate about rear-mounted parting tools and one which I have not previously seen mentioned.
My first of these was the GHT design which, following Duplex, has an indexing and rotating two-tool turret. The merit of this is that the tool can be tailored to the job. This approach also allows the use of other tooling such as boring and knurling tools at the rear but requires a two-piece design - block plus turret - which may lose some rigidity.
I've made two other toolposts for the larger lathe, the current version being equipped with an ISCAR tangential tool:
I may mill a slot in the other side of the turret for another tool. Turret is non-indexing at the moment and when I need to set the tool I refer it to a straight edge against the chuck, etc.
|Thread: Loctite for the Quorn?|
No correction intended. As you yourself indicated, as long as the front and back bars are parallel and the front is free to move all should be well.
I wish you all good fortune with your build.
Checking the Quorn book (page 15) I see that DHC said:
"The front bar should be a close fit but free to move, the back bar should have appreciable clearance so that the front bar can find its own alignment."
I may have read your initial post too literally: whatever grade of Loctite DHC used is no doubt of less interest to you than the answer to the question what grade you should use now! It's some decades since I was in your positon but I do remember the feeling of satisfaction from actually starting to put the thing together; I'm glad to say my back bar is still in place.
"So what grade of Loctite would he have been referring to for this application?"
The recomendation for 601 seems excellent provided that the fit is suitable - I believe there are grades which can tolerate a less than perfect fit - but I am not sure 601 was available in DHC's day. This grade seems not to be listed in my 1996 Loctite handbook.
Given the nature of the joint and its intended use failure seems unlikely.
I have found the technical information on the ARC website (relating to another brand) to be helpful.
|Thread: Wanner oil gun|
I, too, bent the lever on my Reilang but mine had a hydraulic connector. So far as I can see the lever is not available as a spare.
My Wanner with plain nozzle for the Myford oil nipples is just about usable.
I look forward to your article.
|Thread: Car problems|
Neil's AA experience contrasts strongly with their current advertising but worse things happen: yesterday I was told about an acquaintance who set off to drive the seven miles from north London to a central location for dental treatment allowing two hours for the journey; arriving ten mnutes late, they were told they could not be seen that day!
Good luck with the car - a broken halfshaft on an Austin Seven could have been fixed at the roadside.
|Thread: Questions about reamers|
A good friend hit upon the idea of using an adjustable reamer as an expanding mandrel.
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